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Member Since: Aug 28, 2009
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
Contact J Achey


Point Rank: # 2,928
Total Points: 153
Last Year: 47
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (63) | Routes (3) | Areas | Photos (23) | Comments (8) | Posts (26) | Stars (3) | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Total Eclipse (5.12a)
By: J Achey When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Mike, I remember struggling with this thing until I found a hidden edge out on the arete to the right, gained from "#2," I think. If that's not the "crimp" in your diagrams, see if it helps.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Jennifer's World (5.11c)
By: J Achey When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Rob, the route is kinda named after that (awesome) climb at Sunset and for my girlfriend at the time, Jennifer.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Jennifer's World (5.11c)
By: J Achey When: Mar 1, 2014

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Comments: All the fixed pins that kept falling out have now been replaced with bolts, so this route is safe again!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Howl Roof (5.12)
By: J Achey When: Mar 1, 2014

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Comments: Definitely "5.11+" ....


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grey Slabs : Sugar Pop (5.10d)
By: J Achey When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Nope, Mike, wrong route - you are thinking of The Thread. Sugar Pop is all bolts, steeper, and less runout.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud... : Mudflap Girl (5.10)
By: J Achey When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Tom - Glad you enjoyed the route. I'm not sure from your account what you're calling "pitch 5," but there is an off-route bolt out right at the top of the steep corner on the "crux" pitch, before you would traverse left to pull the roof with the pin above it.

There are a lot of ways to combine pitches. I think it is a good idea, especially as this route ages, for parties to carry a hammer to reset any loose pins if necessary.

Once you find the start of the descent down the gully to the north... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Plastic Prince (5.11c)
By: J Achey When: Jul 18, 2013

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Comments: All the old hardware including anchors on Plastic Prince and Local Talent (route to the L) now replaced with Wave Bolt glue-ins. The old hardware was really bad!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : The Neighborhood : Zipper Buttress : California Dreamin' (5.9+)
By: J Achey When: Jul 25, 2011

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Comments: Well, I climbed this route again over the weekend, after a long absence, and, yes, another pin has fallen out (I'd already replaced one with a bolt, higher in the dihedral, a few years ago). The route, as is, is pretty dangerous, with a big runout above another pin, which is dubious. Mike said he wanted to replace the pins - great, Mike, the sooner the better.

So ... sorry, local climbers, about the old-school equipping. It has taken me a while to get comfortable bolting cracks or gear placemen... more >>