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At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but looking around 15.


Member Since: Nov 25, 2001
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Ivan Rezucha


Point Rank: # 30
Total Points: 8,304
Last Year: 1
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Ivan Rezucha

 
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The following 290 contributions by Ivan Rezucha were rated Great or Useful by the indicated user.

Date Contribution UserDescription
May 14, 2013PhotoAnonymous User
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
May 3, 2013PhotoTurnbuckle
Looking down on Chuck at the belay from the top of the chimney.
Apr 8, 2013PhotoBenZH
On the 5.9 first pitch.
Apr 4, 2013PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Apr 1, 2013PhotoCJC
Chuck Graves at the 10c crux. A few more feet and you can get inside, and it eases to 5.9.
Mar 31, 2013PhotoRyan Strong
Taken from the top of Handcracker Direct on the West Ridge. The climber is on the 5.9 second pitch variation. The 11a variation is the right facing corner just right of the climber. The face left of the climber is Paris Girl, 13a. Left of that the crack angling left to the arete is the top of P1 of Disappearing Act 11a. The left facing corrner left of that is P2 of Sunstar. On the right of the photo is Green Slab and the top of the Darkness 'til Dawn alcove.
Mar 25, 2013PhotoAnonymous User
Lisa Apprill getting small gear in where the pin used to be.
Feb 28, 2013Photobrett bloxom
As seen from high on Directissima. <br />The route climbs a crack at the center of the photo up to the right side of the curving gray slab. Then way left to the left of the two right facing corners. A crack above that leads to Table Ledge at the top left of the photo.
Feb 5, 2013PhotoMark Roth
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Feb 2, 2013PhotoAnonymooseCoward
Unknown climber on Bonnie's Roof during our Gunks reunion.
Jan 27, 2013PhotoMAKB
A good view of Lower Animal World taken from the top of Sleeping Beauty.
Jan 19, 2013PhotoJohn Shultz
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
Dec 21, 2012PhotoSimon Thompson
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Dec 21, 2012PhotoSimon Thompson
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Nov 5, 2012PhotoAnonymous User
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Nov 5, 2012PhotoAnonymous User
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Nov 1, 2012PhotoAnonymous User
Lower Spire.
Nov 1, 2012PhotoJason N.
Lower Spire.
Nov 1, 2012PhotoSirius
Lower Spire.
Oct 14, 2012PhotoAnonymous User
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
Sep 29, 2012PhotoLeo Paik
If you walk the finger crack, it's not at all strenuous. You can use the crack on the right for the first half. It is tricky getting gear in though, since you have to lean left to see into the crack.
Aug 25, 2012Photogen-eva
Stormy weather.
Aug 16, 2012PhotoSimon Thompson
The first(?) complete ascent and first brothers ascent, as reported in North American Climber.
Jul 20, 2012PhotoBen Brotelho
The start of the hand traverse on pitch 4. There are two good rests along the way.
Jul 9, 2012PhotoSkat B
Cheating a bit (or am I?) approaching the first crux. Chuck Graves belaying. Paul Rezucha photograher.
Jul 9, 2012PhotoSkat B
On the second crux. I fell from here my first try when I tried to jam my right foot above my right hand jam. Didn't work so well. Paul Rezucha photographer.
Jun 27, 2012PhotoAnonymous User
Undercliff fall colors during Gunks Reunion 2008.
Jun 14, 2012PhotoAnonymous User
Chuck laybacking the "splinter" P2 dihedral crack. Photo by Luke Clarke, hanging from the bolts at the end of the climb. I led on doubles, lowered, then TR'd Luke and Chuck each on a single strand.
May 19, 2012PhotoBrian Prince
As seen from high on Directissima. <br />The route climbs a crack at the center of the photo up to the right side of the curving gray slab. Then way left to the left of the two right facing corners. A crack above that leads to Table Ledge at the top left of the photo.
Mar 25, 2012PhotoMatt Via
Gene Smith on P1 below the crux, and unknown climber finishing P2.
Mar 25, 2012PhotoMatt Via
Rich Goldstone above the main roof. It's 5.6 or so through here.
Mar 25, 2012PhotoMatt Via
Rich Goldstone approaching the first of the roofs. The crux for me was always getting to this point. The roof itself is easy, although intimidating, with huge holds.
Mar 25, 2012PhotoJeremy Monahan
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
Mar 14, 2012PhotoColonel Mustard
Stormy weather.
Mar 10, 2012PhotoAnonymous User
At the middle of the traverse at the end of P1. This downward traverse is wild. The rock is funky, but there's plenty of fixed pins to make it safe.
Mar 10, 2012PhotoAnonymous User
Chuck looking totally casual at the crux. The blindly placed micro cam is at the base of the shallow corrner at Chuck's waist. Chuck climbed directly up from here, with one foot on each side of the corner. Getting to this stance from the flake down and right is hard enough that I didn't want to do that following, so I instead climbed further right. The way Chuck climbed it is easier.
Mar 10, 2012PhotoAnonymous User
At the upper crux at the 5th bolt. After that it's about hard 5.9. The climber at the top is on Moonlight Drive and is trying to finish directly up the arete.
Feb 28, 2012PhotoAnonymous User
Chuck looking totally casual at the crux. The blindly placed micro cam is at the base of the shallow corrner at Chuck's waist. Chuck climbed directly up from here, with one foot on each side of the corner. Getting to this stance from the flake down and right is hard enough that I didn't want to do that following, so I instead climbed further right. The way Chuck climbed it is easier.
Jan 19, 2012PhotoM Sprague
Undercliff fall colors during Gunks Reunion 2008.
Dec 20, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Chuck Graves at the 10c crux. A few more feet and you can get inside, and it eases to 5.9.
Oct 28, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
Oct 28, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
Oct 24, 2011PhotoJohan
Rich Goldstone approaching the first of the roofs. The crux for me was always getting to this point. The roof itself is easy, although intimidating, with huge holds.
Oct 24, 2011PhotoUSBRIT
Steve Arsenault begins the laybacks. It stays hard up to the anchors.
Sep 14, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
An unknown climber starting up Icarus. This and the next 2 photos taken from Green Slab Direct. I think.
Aug 27, 2011PhotoAdam Paashaus
Matinee 1976.
Aug 4, 2011PhotoBill Olszewski
Looking down the Colorado River from Wall Street.
Jul 30, 2011PhotoBen Beckerich
On the 5.9 first pitch.
Jul 28, 2011PhotoJ. Albers
Luke getting into it between the first and second ears. The crack on the main face is set just a little inside the wide crack behind the pillar, and this makes it very awkward.
Jul 1, 2011RouteDan FlynnNY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Star Action (5.10b)
Apr 13, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Looking down on Chuck at the belay from the top of the chimney.
Feb 26, 2011PhotoJustin Compton
Me on Zachariah, a wild and little-climbed 8 in the Nears. There may or may not be gear near the lip. If not, this looks like a death fall.
Feb 24, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Stretching to clip the second bolt. Lisa had to tape a biner open to make this clip.
Feb 19, 2011PhotoRyan Day Thompson
The crux sequence.
Feb 11, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Feb 11, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Feb 1, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Feb 1, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Feb 1, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Feb 1, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Feb 1, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Feb 1, 2011RouteClint LocksCO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Dead Letter Department (5.8)
Jan 31, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Jan 31, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Jan 22, 2011PhotoMichael John Gray
Unknown climber on Free Willie. Photo taken from Black Widow Slab.
Jan 1, 2011PhotoAnonymous User
Showing more clearly the runout traverse right and the hand traverse back left. The top pitch of Hot Licks is the wide 8+ crack above the tall dead tree.
Dec 29, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Lisa Apprill getting small gear in where the pin used to be.
Dec 24, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Ran Glennon on the fifth and last rappel.
Dec 16, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Don't be misled by what appears to be a chimney--you can face climb or stem most of this.
Dec 14, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Luke in a big stem at the start of the final hard sequence. Above this about 70' of easier climbing leads to the summit.
Dec 14, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Approaching the ceiling on P2. The hand crack is great and hand-friendly. There are good stances if you need to slide up your gear. I used two #1/red Camalots above the lip of the roof. <br /> <br />Photo by Luke Clarke.
Nov 30, 2010RouteAnonymous UserCO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Mists of Avalon (5.10a)
Nov 28, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Looking down on Chuck at the belay from the top of the chimney.
Nov 28, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
At the middle of the traverse at the end of P1. This downward traverse is wild. The rock is funky, but there's plenty of fixed pins to make it safe.
Nov 28, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Chuck looking totally casual at the crux. The blindly placed micro cam is at the base of the shallow corrner at Chuck's waist. Chuck climbed directly up from here, with one foot on each side of the corner. Getting to this stance from the flake down and right is hard enough that I didn't want to do that following, so I instead climbed further right. The way Chuck climbed it is easier.
Nov 15, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Looking down on the rappell.
Nov 13, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Steve Arsenault beginning the laybacks as bored spectators ignore him.
Nov 13, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Steve Arsenault begins the laybacks. It stays hard up to the anchors.
Nov 12, 2010Photoalpinista83
Making the difficult reach into the undercling.
Nov 10, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Looking down from high on P2 of the Regular Route on Fairview. The part at the bottom is at the start of the route. The slab below them is low angle and easily hiked/scrambled. The party above is starting P2.
Oct 15, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Undercliff fall colors during Gunks Reunion 2008.
Sep 29, 2010PhotoJ. Albers
Stormy weather.
Sep 20, 2010Photosaxfiend
The first(?) complete ascent and first brothers ascent, as reported in North American Climber.
Sep 6, 2010RouteAnonymous UserNY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Star Action (5.10b)
Aug 30, 2010PhotoBrian Prince
Looking at the second crux which involves a few feet of precarious stemming and/or crimps for the hands. Luke stemmed straight up. I faced left with my back aggainst the right wall and walked my feet up the quartz dike. These moves are the crux for me. After this, step up right onto yet another slab and angle right to the 2-bolt anchor.
Aug 10, 2010PhotoDrew McLean
Chuck Graves at the 10c crux. A few more feet and you can get inside, and it eases to 5.9.
Jul 30, 2010PhotoTuRETZ
Luke, not having fun.
Jul 29, 2010PhotoBlitzo
Lizard Head. Dewlap starts on the left arête.
Jul 29, 2010PhotoBlitzo
Stormy weather.
Jun 30, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
Jun 30, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
The mantle may have been 10+ when I first climbed this in 1975 when this photo was taken. Since then a key hold has broken and the foot holds have become way more polished.
Jun 17, 2010PhotoSaid
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
May 23, 2010PhotoTavis Ricksecker
Stormy weather.
May 21, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
Below the 10c section.
Mar 25, 2010PhotoAnonymous User
Looking down on the rappell.
Mar 25, 2010PhotoMichael G
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
Feb 3, 2010Photoskinny legs and all
Stormy weather.
Jan 31, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
Jan 31, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
Chuck going back up for another try at the 10+ P2 layback. The crux is transitioning from the layback to a mediocre jam at Chuck's high piece and then pulling over to stand on a good foothold on the left. It's not too bad on TR, but hard to stop and place gear. The piece above Chuck's right knee is a fixed hybrid Alien, and the piece above that is a big fixed stopper (fixed as ot 6/27/04).
Jan 31, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
The 11+ mantle. You can see the 2nd bolt a bit right and a bit above the center of the photo. The lighter area right of the bolt is the "bucket" pinch that Steve Levin mentions in his comments.
Jan 31, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
Athlete's Feat - Still hard 40 years after the FFA. Englishman's Home 11c is the series of shallow, right-facing corners right of Athletee's Feat. Country Club Crack 11c is the obvious, left-angling series of cracks.
Jan 30, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
There are perfect jams in the horizontal crack that Luke's left hand is on. The crux for me is clipping the anchors above from those jams. To finish the route properly, make another move to get stemmed out to the right at the top of the corner with your waist at the anchors.
Jan 30, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
Until you've seen it done, this layback seems pretty unlikely. Rather than pulling onto your right foot as Luke is doing, you can instead, if you're reasonably tall, jump off your left foot with the right foot up and get the jug above the bolt.
Jan 30, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
Luke gaining the ledge below the crux.
Jan 30, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
Luke on the overhang/corner with another climber at the ceiling of Learning to Crawl.
Jan 30, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
Approaching the upper crux. Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic is on the left. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Jan 30, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
Near the upper crux on this long pitch. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Jan 30, 2010PhotoLuke Childers
Late afternoon in November.
Jan 29, 2010PhotoDave Holliday
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Dec 19, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Dec 14, 2009Photoccmski
Stormy weather.
Dec 9, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Looking past the Sun from Teepee Tower Crack on Wigwam Dome. Note the beautiful water grooves. And note that rock formation in the distance at the end of the valley. We hiked past that on our first time approach to Wigwam.
Dec 3, 2009PhotoDustin Clelen
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Dec 2, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Nov 26, 2009PhotoChris treggE
Unknown climber on Free Willie. Photo taken from Black Widow Slab.
Nov 22, 2009Phototobin sanson
Looking past the Sun from Teepee Tower Crack on Wigwam Dome. Note the beautiful water grooves. And note that rock formation in the distance at the end of the valley. We hiked past that on our first time approach to Wigwam.
Nov 16, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Oct 12, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
On the 5.9 first pitch.
Oct 4, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Oct 4, 2009Phototobin sanson
Stormy weather.
Oct 1, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Photo by Paul Rezucha. This is the variation #3 I describe in my 5/2/04 post.
Sep 30, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Sep 28, 2009PhotoKris Gorny
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
Sep 27, 2009PhotoMark Roth
Stormy weather.
Sep 3, 2009PhotoLuke Childers
The mantle may have been 10+ when I first climbed this in 1975 when this photo was taken. Since then a key hold has broken and the foot holds have become way more polished.
Sep 3, 2009PhotoLuke Childers
Chuck just about done struggling with the finish to P3. As with P2, the crux is not the overhanging layback, but getting established on the lower angle rock above. The piece above Chuck is a good green Alien. A good idea to keep the rope from running over the top cams if the second should fall. Shortest approach in Boulder! That's our car below. Just like the old days when you could park at the base of the Bastille.
Aug 27, 2009PhotoDarren Mabe
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
Aug 25, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
As seen from high on Directissima. <br />The route climbs a crack at the center of the photo up to the right side of the curving gray slab. Then way left to the left of the two right facing corners. A crack above that leads to Table Ledge at the top left of the photo.
Aug 13, 2009PhotoMark Cushman
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
Aug 13, 2009PhotoCO_Michael
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
Aug 13, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
Jul 21, 2009Phototobin sanson
Making the difficult reach into the undercling.
Jul 11, 2009Phototobin sanson
Photo taken from the very top of the Upper Ramp, near the start of Psycho Pigeon.
Jul 10, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
This is a gorgeous photo taken from the approach across a moss-covered slab of Wigwam. When I took the photo I was unaware of the pretty slab in the foreground.
Jun 22, 2009Phototobin sanson
Lizard Head. Dewlap starts on the left arête.
May 21, 2009Photopercious
A good view of Lower Animal World taken from the top of Sleeping Beauty.
May 18, 2009PhotoDustin Clelen
The route from a diferent angle. It starts right off the tree in the middle of the photo, angles left connecting the successive vertical cracks, to reach the crux pitches up the obvious crack through the overhangs in the orangge rock at the top left of the photo.
May 12, 2009RouteAnonymous UserCO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Mists of Avalon (5.10a)
Apr 20, 2009PhotoBen Hamilton
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
Apr 17, 2009PhotoJeremy Monahan
Stormy weather.
Apr 16, 2009PhotoEckhard
At the 2nd bolt, perhaps the P1 crux, although the pitch is pretty sustained. Clipping this bolt is a bit cruxy also. The first bolt is down and right with gear below that. Psycho goes straight up from the first bolt to a pin and then traverses right.
Apr 15, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
Apr 10, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Perhaps a descendant of the creature after which Rat Tooth Pillar was named.
Apr 10, 2009Photokhoa
Perhaps a descendant of the creature after which Rat Tooth Pillar was named.
Mar 27, 2009PhotoFrank T
Stormy weather.
Mar 25, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Looking down on the rappell.
Mar 23, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Mar 14, 2009RouteAnonymous UserAZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : Chimney Rock : Single Lens Reflex (5.10)
Mar 3, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
At the 2nd bolt, perhaps the P1 crux, although the pitch is pretty sustained. Clipping this bolt is a bit cruxy also. The first bolt is down and right with gear below that. Psycho goes straight up from the first bolt to a pin and then traverses right.
Mar 2, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Chuck casually resting with a heel hook. You can pull hard with your leg and make a long reach to the lip. I've done it this way, but this time I found it easier to work the crack and face holds just right of the crack.
Feb 20, 2009PhotoJohn W. Knoernschild
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Feb 3, 2009PhotomatthewWallace
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Feb 3, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Jan 14, 2009PhotoAnonymous User
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Jan 3, 2009PhotomatthewWallace
Taken from the top of Handcracker Direct on the West Ridge. The climber is on the 5.9 second pitch variation. The 11a variation is the right facing corner just right of the climber. The face left of the climber is Paris Girl, 13a. Left of that the crack angling left to the arete is the top of P1 of Disappearing Act 11a. The left facing corrner left of that is P2 of Sunstar. On the right of the photo is Green Slab and the top of the Darkness 'til Dawn alcove.
Dec 29, 2008Phototobin sanson
Lower Spire.
Dec 20, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but looking around 15.
Dec 8, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Dec 3, 2008PhotoCaelan
As seen from the top of P3 on Directissima.
Nov 12, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Midway up the crux section on P3. The slab in the right foreground is Climb of the Ancient Mariner.
Oct 31, 2008PhotoKeen Butterworth
Undercliff fall colors during Gunks Reunion 2008.
Oct 25, 2008PhotoJeff G.
The P2 slab, taken from Anthill Direct. You can peer around the corner here to scope out Jules Verne. The slab is about 5.8. After turning the arete to the left at the top of the slab, there is a airy and steep 10b section with climbing a bit above a small but good nut.
Oct 20, 2008PhotoIsaac Therneau
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Oct 20, 2008PhotoIsaac Therneau
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Oct 19, 2008PhotoOwen Silver
Photo taken from the very top of the Upper Ramp, near the start of Psycho Pigeon.
Oct 13, 2008PhotoAdam Stackhouse
Lizard Head. Dewlap starts on the left arête.
Oct 9, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Unknown climber following P1 after unclipping the first bolt. The leader trailed a rope which is used to good effect protecting the second from taking a big swing.
Oct 4, 2008RouteJulius BeresCO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark : Minas Tireth (5.10a)
Oct 2, 2008RouteLeo PaikCO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Eagle's Bier (5.8)
Sep 4, 2008PhotoOlaf Mitchell
Unknown climber near the end of P1. Photo by Paul Rezucha from the Fowler Trail.
Aug 31, 2008PhotoNate Oakes
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
Aug 28, 2008RouteLeo PaikCO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Mystic Mile (5.10c)
Aug 22, 2008PhotoKat A
Perhaps a descendant of the creature after which Rat Tooth Pillar was named.
Aug 19, 2008PhotoOlaf Mitchell
Looking past the Sun from Teepee Tower Crack on Wigwam Dome. Note the beautiful water grooves. And note that rock formation in the distance at the end of the valley. We hiked past that on our first time approach to Wigwam.
Aug 11, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Aug 4, 2008PhotoKris Gorny
P1 has some fun stemming. You can do P1 and P2 as a decent 5.9 climb and rap from good sling on horn anchors.
Jul 15, 2008PhotoJeremy Hakes
This is a gorgeous photo taken from the approach across a moss-covered slab of Wigwam. When I took the photo I was unaware of the pretty slab in the foreground.
Jul 12, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Jul 9, 2008PhotoBrad Brandewie
Stormy weather.
Jun 26, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Jun 26, 2008PhotoDaveB
Stormy weather.
Jun 23, 2008PhotoJohn Maurer
Stormy weather.
Jun 6, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Jun 3, 2008PhotoM.Morley
Lizard Head. Dewlap starts on the left arête.
Jun 3, 2008PhotoM.Morley
Stormy weather.
May 24, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
May 18, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
On the 5.9 first pitch.
May 13, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
May 5, 2008Photojoshf
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
Apr 11, 2008PhotoPaul Rezucha
Lizard Head. Dewlap starts on the left arête.
Apr 11, 2008PhotoPaul Rezucha
Lower Spire.
Mar 18, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Unknown climber following P1 after unclipping the first bolt. The leader trailed a rope which is used to good effect protecting the second from taking a big swing.
Mar 14, 2008PhotoSirius
A close up of Wigwam in the afternoon on a cold bleak October day. I won't draw in the routes, since I've only done Teepee Tower Crack, and that's out of sight on the left, but... <br />The huge arching roof is On The Edge. Rambling Rose traverses below that roof and then up into the left leaning left facing corner. Trail of Tears is further right, near the skyline I think. The big tower on the left is Teepee (or TB?) Tower. The big corner on its right is Hill's Route. The smaller right facing corner just right of the left skyline is TB Buttress with Warpath climbing the narrow (in the photo) face on the skyline. Teepee Tower Crack is the left facing corner (not visible) formed by Teepee Tower.
Mar 14, 2008PhotoBrad Allender
Me on Zachariah, a wild and little-climbed 8 in the Nears. There may or may not be gear near the lip. If not, this looks like a death fall.
Mar 4, 2008PhotoGuy H.
Taken from the top of Handcracker Direct on the West Ridge. The climber is on the 5.9 second pitch variation. The 11a variation is the right facing corner just right of the climber. The face left of the climber is Paris Girl, 13a. Left of that the crack angling left to the arete is the top of P1 of Disappearing Act 11a. The left facing corrner left of that is P2 of Sunstar. On the right of the photo is Green Slab and the top of the Darkness 'til Dawn alcove.
Feb 21, 2008PhotoDFrench
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
Feb 21, 2008PhotoDFrench
The mantle may have been 10+ when I first climbed this in 1975 when this photo was taken. Since then a key hold has broken and the foot holds have become way more polished.
Jan 27, 2008PhotoJay Knower
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Jan 8, 2008PhotoBen Folsom
Getting into it. Big Bro below.
Jan 4, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
On the 5.9 first pitch.
Jan 4, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Jan 4, 2008PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Jan 4, 2008PhotoYDPL8S
Stormy weather.
Dec 21, 2007PhotoChris treggE
Unknown climber following the downward crux moves beyond the second bolt.
Dec 19, 2007PhotoAnonymous User
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Dec 15, 2007PhotoAnonymous User
Stormy weather.
Dec 12, 2007Photomschlocker
Stormy weather.
Dec 5, 2007Photojblackattack
Stormy weather.
Dec 1, 2007Photomikewhite
Gear at the end of the hard climbing. It looks like a long way on just two quarter inch bolts.
Nov 26, 2007PhotoSirius
Stormy weather.
Nov 18, 2007PhotoCharles Danforth
Above the difficult hand/fist start.
Nov 18, 2007PhotoCharles Danforth
Getting into it. Big Bro below.
Nov 16, 2007PhotoTea
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Nov 16, 2007PhotoKris Gorny
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Nov 2, 2007PhotoSteve Marr
Stormy weather.
Nov 2, 2007PhotoDan Dalton
Looking at the second crux which involves a few feet of precarious stemming and/or crimps for the hands. Luke stemmed straight up. I faced left with my back aggainst the right wall and walked my feet up the quartz dike. These moves are the crux for me. After this, step up right onto yet another slab and angle right to the 2-bolt anchor.
Sep 27, 2007PhotoLenny Miller
Stormy weather.
Sep 27, 2007PhotoKris Gorny
Stormy weather.
Sep 21, 2007PhotoLeo Paik
Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.
Sep 21, 2007PhotoLeo Paik
Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
Sep 18, 2007PhotoEric Brehm
The classic shot with Mt. Meeker and Longs Peak and the Diamond in the background.
Sep 14, 2007PhotoLadd Raine
The view from the top of the Regular Route of Fairview, looking northwest. I think the dome beyond the meadow is Lamb Dome. The highway follows the creek through the meadow.
Aug 23, 2007PhotoAnonymous User
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Aug 14, 2007PhotoKris Gorny
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Aug 6, 2007PhotoDave Fiorucci
A climber turning the 5.8 roof of Calypso Direct with another party below on regular Calypso.
Aug 5, 2007PhotoDave Fiorucci
This climber did not know about moving left, and tried going straight up. It's possible--there are crimps--but much harder. He eventually went right.
Aug 5, 2007PhotoDave Fiorucci
Below the 5.9 crux on P4. It's runout but relatively easy off the belay, then you get small but good gear up to the crux. This crux move seems easier to me than the P1 and P3 5.8 pitches.
Jul 31, 2007PhotoDave Holliday
The main thing I remember about our ascent in 1975 was the 4th pitch which was much harder than it was supposed to be. EBs, painters pants, 60/40. Not sure how it was protected in those days with no cams. There may have been some more pins.
Jul 3, 2007Photoc graves
The Owls West face routes.
Jul 3, 2007Photoc graves
Getting into it. Big Bro below.
Jun 3, 2007PhotoAnonymous User
Near the top of P1.
Jun 1, 2007PhotoAnonymous User
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
Jun 1, 2007PhotoAnonymous User
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
May 15, 2007PhotoAnonymous User
Fat City Crack climbs the rounded crack left of Chuck and then a think crack (10a?) above, traverses left to the wide crack and over the arching roof (10 b/c harder than it looks). High Plains Drifter continues up the slab above. Howling in the Wind climbs the wide crack in the large corner right of Chuck at 5.9 and then moves left at the large triangular overhang into the left facing corner. The thin cracks right of Howling in the Wind are the top of El Camino Real and Corner Pump Station.
Apr 27, 2007PhotoDave Holliday
Unknown climber following the downward crux moves beyond the second bolt.
Apr 16, 2007PhotoMike C. Robinson
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Jan 19, 2007PhotoRob Dillon
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.
Dec 20, 2006PhotoLeo Paik
Great photo with great light! I am dead center in the photo but barely visible. Isis is the huge sunny right facing dihedral. There are hard routes up the sunny face. Photo by Chuck Graves.
Dec 18, 2006PhotoLeo Paik
Looking at the second crux which involves a few feet of precarious stemming and/or crimps for the hands. Luke stemmed straight up. I faced left with my back aggainst the right wall and walked my feet up the quartz dike. These moves are the crux for me. After this, step up right onto yet another slab and angle right to the 2-bolt anchor.
Dec 9, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
This is a gorgeous photo taken from the approach across a moss-covered slab of Wigwam. When I took the photo I was unaware of the pretty slab in the foreground.
Dec 3, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
The first bolt is visible directly above my hips. Hike up this ramp until right of the bolt, clip, then step up and left. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Nov 28, 2006PhotoLeo Paik
Unknown climber following the downward crux moves beyond the second bolt.
Nov 17, 2006Photogoatboy smellz
A close up of Wigwam in the afternoon on a cold bleak October day. I won't draw in the routes, since I've only done Teepee Tower Crack, and that's out of sight on the left, but... <br />The huge arching roof is On The Edge. Rambling Rose traverses below that roof and then up into the left leaning left facing corner. Trail of Tears is further right, near the skyline I think. The big tower on the left is Teepee (or TB?) Tower. The big corner on its right is Hill's Route. The smaller right facing corner just right of the left skyline is TB Buttress with Warpath climbing the narrow (in the photo) face on the skyline. Teepee Tower Crack is the left facing corner (not visible) formed by Teepee Tower.
Nov 8, 2006PhotoLeo Paik
On the awkward 5.9 approach. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Nov 2, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
A close up of Wigwam in the afternoon on a cold bleak October day. I won't draw in the routes, since I've only done Teepee Tower Crack, and that's out of sight on the left, but... <br />The huge arching roof is On The Edge. Rambling Rose traverses below that roof and then up into the left leaning left facing corner. Trail of Tears is further right, near the skyline I think. The big tower on the left is Teepee (or TB?) Tower. The big corner on its right is Hill's Route. The smaller right facing corner just right of the left skyline is TB Buttress with Warpath climbing the narrow (in the photo) face on the skyline. Teepee Tower Crack is the left facing corner (not visible) formed by Teepee Tower.
Nov 2, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
Looking past the Sun from Teepee Tower Crack on Wigwam Dome. Note the beautiful water grooves. And note that rock formation in the distance at the end of the valley. We hiked past that on our first time approach to Wigwam.
Nov 1, 2006PhotoLeo Paik
Looking past the Sun from Teepee Tower Crack on Wigwam Dome. Note the beautiful water grooves. And note that rock formation in the distance at the end of the valley. We hiked past that on our first time approach to Wigwam.
Oct 11, 2006PhotoBuff Johnson
Your basic Edge photo.
Sep 19, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
Stemming and backstepping the corner/chimney that leads to the roof. Interesting moves, but not that hard.
Aug 13, 2006RouteSteve MarrCO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark : Minas Tireth (5.10a)
Jul 26, 2006PhotoAnnie O'Neill
1981. The Fat City Direct crux en route to the first continuous ascent of Requiem via the Fat City Direct variation. Fat City Direct climbs straight up to where I am in the photo. Requiem climbs a wild feet dangling hand crack over a bright orange roof just out of the photo to the right. The true Requiem crux, originally aided, first went free at 12 something, and then a hold broke (but maybe still free). The large right facing corner at the left of the photo is Gelsa, 5.4.
Jul 23, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
Luke cruising the P1 jams.
Jul 7, 2006PhotoGregory Kehrl
Chuck casually resting with a heel hook. You can pull hard with your leg and make a long reach to the lip. I've done it this way, but this time I found it easier to work the crack and face holds just right of the crack.
Jun 19, 2006PhotoLuke Clarke
Just layback it! Yes, but then it's hard to get gear. Luke is placing a cam blindly. Hopefully he'll take a peek at it before he continues climbing.
Jun 19, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
Just layback it! Yes, but then it's hard to get gear. Luke is placing a cam blindly. Hopefully he'll take a peek at it before he continues climbing.
Jun 17, 2006PhotoCaelan
The crux sequence.
Jun 5, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
The final difficult move at 10 something. I did this as a layback. Tony face climbed it straight on. Photo by Tony Bubb.
May 29, 2006PhotoLuke Clarke
P1 has some fun stemming. You can do P1 and P2 as a decent 5.9 climb and rap from good sling on horn anchors.
May 8, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
Nice lighting, not much action on P1. <br />Photo by Luke Clarke.
Apr 21, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
P1 has some fun stemming. You can do P1 and P2 as a decent 5.9 climb and rap from good sling on horn anchors.
Apr 21, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
The route from a diferent angle. It starts right off the tree in the middle of the photo, angles left connecting the successive vertical cracks, to reach the crux pitches up the obvious crack through the overhangs in the orangge rock at the top left of the photo.
Apr 10, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
Starting the hand crack. Cozy Hang traverse to this point from the right. There's a photo in the Rossiter guide of Nancy Pritchard from above in this same position. It looks like she's soloing.
Apr 3, 2006PhotoLuke Clarke
Looking at the overhang blocking the way to the upper slab. This overhang looks forbidding from the ground, but it's pretty small and pretty easy, maybe 5.8. <br />Photo by Chuck Graves.
Mar 26, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
Above the crux on P2. The crux is the thin crack and tiny left facing corner through the overhanging headwall below Luke. The climbing is easy up to there and very easy but runout above. The final large red corner is about 5.7.
Mar 26, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
Approaching the P1 crux. The flake my left hand is on is suspect. You can get one good big brass nut just above this flake in the main corner. The gear below is dependent on the flake holding. If you're tall, the crux is getting stood up where my hand is. If you can't reach the jug from there, the next move may be the crux. I Did it My Way is just to the right.
Mar 9, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
On the 5.8 or 9 first half of P2. The white streak to the right is bird shit. It gets worse, much worse.
Mar 3, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but looking around 15.
Mar 2, 2006PhotoAnnie O'Neill
At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but looking around 15.
Feb 27, 2006RouteGreg HandCO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Miss Manners (5.11a)
Feb 25, 2006PhotoAnonymous User
The regular route (see Dihedral), goes left at the flake. The direct goes up the corner to the top.