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At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but looking around 15.


Member Since: Nov 25, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Ivan Rezucha


Point Rank: # 38
Total Points: 8,306
Last Year: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 2622 | Routes 106 | Areas 5 | Photos 1338 | Page Improvments | Comments 481 | Posts 10 | Stars 469 | Ratings 213
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Jungle Blues From Jupiter (5.10c) : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 10, 2007

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Comments: This is actually the first crux of The Caterer, which can be used to approach Spiders From Mars. This crux is rated 11d I think in Rolofson's new guide.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : I Did It My Way (5.10a R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 4, 2007

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Comments: I think this is NOT the standard start to Tagger as Bryson suggests but rather this is further left, just right of Across the River From Butt Hair. There is a line that enters a right facing corner, moves left the the rib that separates ATRFBH and this route, and then continues up the right side of the rib to the final hard moves of P1 of Tagger. I haven't led this yet, but have TR'd it 4 or 5 times. Gear would be mediocre until you get established on the rib at which point you can "cheat" and g... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Backtalk (5.10c R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Feb 26, 2007

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Comments: Was the pin replaced? I remember it as rusty and sticking out further. It's now gold colored, if I was seeing straight, and sticking out about an inch less than I remember. Not that that makes it good...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Feb 18, 2007

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Comments: Greg Miller dragged a willing (it was my idea) but way out of shape me up Psycho Pigeon yesterday. My mind was willing, but my body wasn't. We approached via Psychosis, P1 of which was mixed snow and rock, and P3 of which was desperately-cold jamming. We started Psycho Pigeon via the left-facing corner depicted in the photo of Mellow Fellow. The move off the ground felt like 10+, but otherwise it was 9 with 9s at the end moving left then up to the belay. Rossiter describes starting further left,... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Where Eagles Dare (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Dec 17, 2006

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Comments: There's a fixed nut to protect the P1 real crux moves after the jug. The nut has been there over a year. It's been tested... P2 is spicier than I remembered. The small cam in the horizontal is tough to place and very shallow, hanging in on a bump in the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Vertical Smile (5.7)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Dec 8, 2006

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Comments: Paul, I'm pretty sure you were on P2 of Slimy Spoon. It climbs a chimney/stemming slot into a left-facing corner. I looked at it the other day when we did what we thought was Vertical Smile. There are no other features on the left side of the wall that could be Quo Vadis.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Pearl Harbor (5.10d)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Dec 4, 2006

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Comments: I forgot to mention in my previous post that the Rossiter and Gillett guides call P1 10a and 10b (or vice versa) which is why I was wondering what's up with Leo's 10d rating.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Pearl Harbor (5.10d)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Dec 3, 2006

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Comments: Leo seems to have climbed P1 left of the second bolt and found it to be quite hard. Not knowing that was a possibility, I climbed up to the right of the second bolt until almost touching 10 Clicks and then climbed diagonally left past the bolt with no feet and a couple of sloping finger holds. Hard for me, but not 10d. Maybe 10b?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Vertical Smile (5.7)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 27, 2006

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Comments: I felt this climb's only redeeming value was late season afternoon sun, with the climbing on junk rock with only a couple of interesting moves. The top is very near, or may coincide, with the top pitch of Slimy Spoon. As for Quo Vadis (1 of 2 with that name in Rossiter's guide), it seems that either it doesn't exist or it's the same as Vertical Smile.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Zip Code (5.11-)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 20, 2006

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Comments: Seems like there are at least several ways to do the crux. My new way differs from the way I posted above. Stem low or high, layback, finger lock and reach, etc. All can work, but all are hard unless you're really tall. I didn't know there was a bolt at the anchor tree. I've always just seen that small tree and thought, "No way", and traversed off left and scrambled down.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Moonlight Drive (5.10b PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 18, 2006

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Comments: I lead this today having followed it a year or two ago. It seemed very easy. The first pitch is maybe 5.7. The big flake was more solid than I remembered. The rock on the traverse left is atrocious--don't pull out on anything, but the gear is pretty good, and the climbing is very easy if you stay low. The crux is on positive 1/2 joint or bigger hand holds and pretty big feet, and is all in balance. One standup move is all. I had followed Deviant (9+) that morning and had more trouble following t... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Turdland (5.9 PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 18, 2006

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Comments: There's a "direct" variation where you climb straight up at the last bolt that's 10 something. I did it once and thought it was not that hard nor that interesting. The standard way is to traverse right past the bolt and then up at 5.9. Dick has apparently incorporated the variation as the official way to do the route and hence the upgrading.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Friends in High Places (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 11, 2006

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Comments: The fixed nut above the pin is trashed as of today. 3 of the 6 cables strands are broken. It may be possible to get another nut in the same spot, but unlikely, as I would have done just that in previous ascents to back up the nut. Since the nut has been fixed for at least several years, it likely will require a hammer and punch or bigger guns to remove it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Vanishing Point (5.10d)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 9, 2006

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Comments: On TR at the end of a long day, this was much easier, and less steep, than it looked. One face move at the crux. I may tell a different story when/if I come back to lead it, but perhaps not, as there are good stances just before and just after that one crux move.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Brain Cramps (5.9+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 9, 2006

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Comments: I think Joe's description is incorrect for the start, although I'm no Turkey Rocks expert. I think Joe is describing two possible starts for The Eastern Front, 5.8. Immediately right of Straw Turkey is a short crack that leads to a small overhang. Right of that, on a blunt arete is another nice looking crack. Just right of that arete is a right facing corner. The second crack and corner both lead to the left edge of a large roof. I believe that's what Joe is describing, and that's Eastern Front.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : A Hike for Y2K (5.11d)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 7, 2006

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Comments: Got on this again last weekend. Neither my brother Paul nor I could climb it straight up due in part to end of day fatigue and lack of motivation. Paul instead climbed it left of the bolt by walking his feet up the diagonal crack, barely in balance with small crimps, until he could high step with the right foot onto the hold on the lip a little down and left from the bolt. This is the same hold your left foot ends up on if you climb it direct. This left variation seems legitimate and is perhaps ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Divine Wind (5.11b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 7, 2006

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Comments: Finally got on this as the first climb of my brother Paul's 4-day visit. A bit too ambitious for me, as I struggled on the 9 approach, got the first hard move into the stem, then hung a bunch figuring out the next moves into the higher stem. Lowered from there and Paul led through the upper crux clean. I was unable to get it clean on TR.

Neither of us could figure out the 10d "escape" out L. Perhaps it's at the very top.

Gear for the approach is red and gold Camalot and green and yellow Aliens... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Teepee Tower Crack (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 1, 2006

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Comments: The Trout guide says, paraphrased, "Your happiness on this route will be in direct proportion to the number of #4 Friends you carry." He's referring to P2.

Here is the massive amount of gear we used (wide crack masters can ignore this):
P1: singles to red Camalot, doubles to #4 Camalot.
P2: Triples from .75 to #3/blue Camalot, #4 Friend, 3.5 Camalot, double #4 Camalots. I used 3 .75 Camalots and a #1 plus a couple of Aliens for the belay at the top of P2 (I d... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 1, 2006

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Comments: On our first time into Wigwam recently we hiked way too far. We saw the spectacular vertical face of The Sun, but because Hubbel said the approach was two miles, and only 30+ minutes had passed, we said "nice crag" and kept our heads down and kept up our blistering pace. Eventually we passed a crag to dropped right down to the trail and beyond that a broad open area with no rock in sight. We reconsidered, read the Trout guide which said the approach was 1 mile, and turned around, having walked a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Kama Sutra (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 1, 2006

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Comments: Why cut the tree down to place the new convenience anchors at the top of P1? The tree is clearly visible in Ron's beta photo. What remains now is a 6" stump, 4-6" in diameter. I assume it was cut to make pulling the rope easier, but as there is another descent that has worked just fine for the 8 years this climb has existed, the tree should not have been chopped.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : The Tree of Life (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 1, 2006

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Comments: OK climb, but 1 or 1 1/2 stars rather than 3, when compared to other climbs at Sleeping Beauty. The start (Kama Sutra) is good, the moves right are fun but short, with a difficult gaston foot switch, then much moderate nondescript climbing that shares a short bit with Kama Sutra, then good hard 9 climbing on the upper part of Wings of Desire. I.e., about 6 traversing feet of good new climbing.

The description says you come "very near" to Kama Sutra up high, but I actually joined Kama S... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Mystery Ship (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: The first half is moderate, but the headwall was way harder than Ancient Light which is supposedly 10a, but may be just 9. The clip after the finger crack on the headwall was pretty hard. It was cold, so that may have contributed. On the other hand, my partner Luke TR'd it in his approach shoes, and made it look relatively easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : The Solution (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: Didn't enjoy this much. Not as clean as The Resistance. There's a death flake below that it feels like you could hit, or worse, straddle. There's the big flake behind you that you can palm or stem to at any point, which I did the first time up, and so this route felt contrived. Did it twice and both times I had to lunge the last move to the jug.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : The Resistance (5.11c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 24, 2006

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Comments: Thought this was The Solution when I first started up it. Then moved left onto what looked like an easier unknown but was in fact The Solution. Luke started up this and was halfway up when I realized this was Resistance. Much nicer than The Solution and only a touch harder. Way easier than Black Tiger to the right which we flailed on on TR and couldn't get past the first move.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 5, 2006

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Comments: Having done this a few times, we rapped off the tree at the top of Paris Girl with little thought with our 60m. We had seen two women rap earlier to the top of the pillar at the start of Disappearing Act with a single rope. Turns out they rapped from the next tree to the left. Do NOT rap off the Paris Girl tree with a single 60m or 70m (the first tree with slings you come to). I got to the second ring bolt on Paris Girl when I realized no way was I going to make it--to the ground or far left to ... more >>


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