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At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but looking around 15.


Member Since: Nov 25, 2001
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Ivan Rezucha


Point Rank: # 34
Total Points: 8,305
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All (2621) | Routes (106) | Areas (5) | Photos (1338) | Comments (480) | Posts (10) | Stars (469) | Ratings (213)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Sharksfin
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: This is the rap anchor situation as of yesterday:

Northwest corner:
As stated in the previous comment, there is a decent cable around a large block on the northwest corner directly above the north face route. This can be used as a belay anchor (since belay anchors are difficult to find on top of Sharksfin). The cable is backed up with a single strand of 7mm cord, with cuts in the sheath, to a single decent nut. You can get to the ground with two 60s. We had no trouble pulling the ropes. If you ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : The Man Who Loved Cat Danci... (5.11a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 5, 2008

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Comments: After the crux, we moved right to the two-bolt anchor of King Tut. A 70m just makes it to the ground. With a 60m, you should be able to get to some ledges from which you can scramble down.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Ivan and the Saum (5.9 PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: Perhaps off route or exaggerating the looseness? I don't remember loose rock. What I do remember is I once climbed this in running shoes. I had forgotten my rock shoes. I figured I would climb barefoot, no problem. About 20' up my feet were sweating, and I was gripped. So I went down and put on my running shoes, and it felt easy, compared to barefoot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Puff Daddy (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jan 13, 2008

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Comments: This felt significantly easier than P1 of Flags of Our Father. The top, although steep, had obvious climbing with mostly very positive hand holds, although some are small.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Hold The Line (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jan 13, 2008

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Comments: The general line has been toproped by me and undoubtedly others using the Rhodian Shores anchors and/or Bihedral Arete rap anchor. I believe I did the lower half (on TR) further right using the more difficult left angling seam. As bolted, I kept trying not to use the crack on the left feeling that using that was cheating, but without it the lower half would be more difficult than the rating.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Flags of Our Fathers (5.9+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jan 5, 2008

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Comments: I had to get out today after not climbing outside for 5 weeks. I self-belayed this just beating the rain. I did it as one pitch at about 200' with a few feet to spare. The distance is not accurate, because I was using my shortened 70m which is approximately but not exactly 60m. The P1 crux took me a long time. Tried to the right, straight up, to the left. Repeat. I eventually climbed to the right of the bolts. There is one hard move on each of P2 and P3, with the P3 move right off the ledge.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Dec 2, 2007

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Comments: I followed Greg up this last Tuesday. Greg was solid, but was struggling a bit getting in the last nut before the final hard move. The crack crux was much harder than the traverse for me--I couldn't do it, and left a lot of skin behind. I hung on the traverse before the last move to rest and avoid a potential swinging fall. The gear on the traverse is good, except the final nut which is small and single and placed from a difficult stance. Just before that Greg had 3 good but small nuts. They wer... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 30, 2007

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Comments: Greg Miller and I went to Crescent Arch last Tuesday, the first time for both of us. Once we left the trail, the approach (and return) was pretty unpleasant. If when you leave the trail you find yourself immediately in big boulders, you may have gone too far. You need to leave the trail where it bends to the left and Crescent Wall is just across a ravine. There's an open slope leading down into the ravine that's obvious on the return, but hard to see on the approach. At the bottom of the slope a... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Heaven Can Wait (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 30, 2007

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Comments: Greg Miller and I did this climb to the top. Gillett says P1 and P2 FA are unknown. P3 10b past the roof was added in 1984 by Mike Caldwell and Barlow.

P1 is gnarly, unpleasant and felt pretty hard. P2 is easy but runout. Save a #2 Camalot for the middle of P2 and another #2 and/or #1 for the belay below the roof. I had neither and belayed from 2 sideways nuts in the roof. We belayed at the top of the P2 flakes rather than at the left end of the subsequent traverse ledge, so t... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: The "5.7 runout" pitch after the crux pitch is marked as 5.9 in both the Hubbel and Trout guides. So we felt better about bailing from the top of the 10 pitch. We had all three of us just finished John Long's new edition of Climbing Anchors which said that 1/4" bolts are essentially useless.

We started via the alleged "5.6 knobs", but couldn't find any. We instead climbed bushy cracks as for Hill's Route and then scrambled down and right to the left edge of the roof. The 2 roof pitches make a g... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Pearl Harbor (5.10d)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: Finally did P2 after doing P1 twice before. This time on the P1 slab crux I climbed straight up at the bolt using a diagonal edge above the overlap. It seemed straightforward but a little reachy. The easier climbing above the P1 ceiling seemed more run out than previous times. The memorable parts of P2 were a "runout" between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, that I almost backed off at, climbing up and right then reaching way back left to clip the 4th bolt, then stepping back down and left and TR'ing thos... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Nuclear Polka (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: The route looks better from down the hill than it does from below. The corners look steep from down the hill, then when walking up they looked low angle, but then from below and climbing they are indeed pretty steep, but the route looked pretty ugly to me. The pro sucks pretty much at the bottom up to the block that looks loose but isn't. There's a ring pin low down that is relatively recent (little rust). We climbed the middle corner left hand and left foot in the corner, right hand and right f... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : GI Joe Does Barbie (5.9+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: Rossiter (or is it Gillett?) calls this S. It felt pretty exciting (and pretty hard) making the moves past the 3rd bolt and up to the roof. Don't blow it after you get the jug. We placed a good Crack'n Up above the small cams to more or less TR the first move. A Ball Nut might go in a little lower than the Crack'n Up. You can get some other gear between the first and third bolts if you carry some small cams.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Hallway : The Bearhug (5.10c/d)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 21, 2007

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Comments: I used a gold Camalot on the left to protect the difficult clip which was for me the crux. Interesting moves using right heel hook to release the right hand to make the clip and to move the right hand up.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 9, 2007

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Comments: The Reckoning?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 27, 2007

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Comments: The first move is 10-something if you do the obvious and jam it. Fortunately, after some consultation with ground control, I figured out the easier way. I have some sympathy with the "dike and hike" comment above. Although I enjoyed the route, I found myself getting a little annoyed at having to do the same move over and over: feet and hands on big dike, but crack more or less useless and the right wall concave. I typically would lean way left off the crack, palm the left wall, smear the right w... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 4, 2007

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Comments: A fixed anchor is not going to happen given that you could climb up a few more feet and get multiple good pieces above the alleged loose block. The climb can also easily be done in one long pitch, but then you might be asking for a bolt at the top where an anchor is hard to arrange if you've used all your big pieces.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Eight Miles High (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 2, 2007

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Comments: Greg Miller led this all trad yesterday. The only excitement is the last slab move which is above a micro cam that's a few feet below your feet. I then led it clipping the last 2 bolts. The arete move turned out to be much easier than I remembered, so I could have easily done it with just the last bolt. The arete move is protected by a fair micro cam, #00 TCU or purple Alien, with back up about 4 feet below. No gear for the first 30' or so off the ground, but it's easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Immaculate Deception (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 2, 2007

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Comments: Greg Miller onsighted the direct start yesterday all trad. The gear was very good. Blue Alien to .75 Camalot. The cams in the vertical crack are good straight down. You can get a directional below the crack which, if clipped short, keeps the rope from pulling out on the cams above. There's a very good small cam in the flake on the right, and bigger cams in the overlap.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : The Stroke of Midnight (5.10d)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 25, 2007

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Comments: I thought this was pretty good. I did the roof with a TR from the second bolt. The moves left and then over the bulge were pretty hard and spooky. I was gripped making the third clip--on the edge of tipping out. After the bulge easy climbing lead to a steep 8 or 9 finish up a rounded crack/trough feature with a hand jam or two.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 26, 2007

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Comments: That was me doing the dropping, Luke's head and helmet doing the blocking and Chuck's chest doing the stopping. .75 Camalot came off the biner as I was placing the other cam on the same biner.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Northern Dinosaur Egg : Rehatch (5.5)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 11, 2007

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Comments: We did this today, climbing P2 from the first rather than the second chockstone. It seemed harder than 5.5, and some of the holds were rotten, so perhaps this is NOT the correct way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Jungle Blues From Jupiter (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 10, 2007

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Comments: You can bypass the first crux by doing a "step" to end up above The Vaino Step. A few feet up the starting corner you can stem out left to a knob. Maneuver your right foot up until you can reach out left to a jug/horn. Swing left onto the slab and clip a bolt or two. This variation is about 5.9 if you're tall enough to reach the horn.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Jungle Blues From Jupiter (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 10, 2007

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Comments: Rolofson's new guide rates the first crux as 11a which makes me feel a lot better. The finger jam is slick, feet are small, and the cam protecting the crux is in a glassy parallel crack, which adds some doubt.

Rolofson calls the second crux 10d, but it feels more like 10a/b to me, although it's intimidating.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Jungle Blues From Jupiter (5.10c) : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 10, 2007

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Comments: This is actually the first crux of The Caterer, which can be used to approach Spiders From Mars. This crux is rated 11d I think in Rolofson's new guide.


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