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At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but looking around 15.


Member Since: Nov 25, 2001
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
Contact Ivan Rezucha


Point Rank: # 39
Total Points: 8,306
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
199 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ivan Rezucha been climbing?










Contributions


All 2622 | Routes 106 | Areas 5 | Photos 1338 | Page Improvments | Comments 481 | Posts 10 | Stars 469 | Ratings 213
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ichiban Arete (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jul 7, 2009

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Comments: Compared to nearby sandbag 9+'s Deviant and Highway of Diamonds, this climb is very easy. With double ropes, the initial traverse is safe and not at all scary. I then downclimbed a bit and traversed out. I didn't see the Tri Cam placement that Tony mentioned, but there's a sinker brass nut in the thin vertical crack to protect the move up to the first bolt.I clipped my left rope a little too high up the corner and so had some drag after I rounded the arete. It would have been better to clip the ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Elder Cleavage Direct (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 8, 2009

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Comments: First ascent was NOT Annie O'Neill. Maybe Rod Schwartz? I forget!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 16, 2009

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Comments: There is currently a very nice, large and extremely clear photo of the Elephant Buttresses at the Boulder Library as part of the ditch exhibit. All of the popular climbs are very visible. It's worth a look. The history of the Silver Lake Ditch and the other ditches is very interesting. There's a working model of the two "tram lines" used to move the pipes during the 2008 rebuild of the pipe below Elephant Buttresses.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Unknown 10c aka Quadrille (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 4, 2009

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Comments: Lenny Miller led this yesterday by stick clipping the first bolt and then climbing slightly right of the bolt and pulling really hard on the good hold at the base of the tiny, left-facing corner. I followed it completely differently by pulling on a two tip pocket with my right hand and rocking up and left to end up standing and in balance on the higher part of the starting ledge. I then smeared up on crimps and stepped far right. Both ways seemed very hard for 10c judging by the noise Lenny was ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 1, 2009

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Comments: A few days ago, I had to re-climb this on TR to get a nut out. I lowered to the ground to get the nut tool, got the nut, and then, at the mantle move, moved left and up over a featured face into a left facing corner that led to the upper easy climbing. Fun climbing, but it would be pretty runout on the lead. I saw some chalk down and left that looked like someone was considering climbing straight up to the left-facing corner, but there's a pretty blank steep section blocking the way.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Transcontinental Nailway (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 20, 2009

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Comments: There's a "direct" John Bragg 5.10 P2 that goes, I think, more or less straight up after the P1 anchors. I know it's up there somewhere, but I can't picture it. It's been a while...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: I self belayed this (again) yesterday and didn't bring any trad gear. That was a mistake. There are a couple of big runouts between bolts. In particular, after the first crux is a groundfall runout on medium difficult climbing.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs : White Shores (5.10a/b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Feb 22, 2009

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Comments: Gillett gives this 3 stars, but I'd say 2, since it's still pretty dirty. The undercling left at the start was pretty exciting. If you're tall enough, the crux at the second bolt is not the crux. You can place a #0.75/Green Camalot and a ~1/4" nut (blue HB Offset) to protect clipping the 4th bolt, which seemed placed a bit too high even for me at 6'2. I was able to stand on the base of the sketchy small try and stretch to clip.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Union with Earth (5.10b/c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Feb 9, 2009

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Comments: FA Bob Horan, Skip Guerin, Dick Ciley 1980 as per Rossiter.

The roof is exciting--you have to convince yourself that your feet will stick on the very overhanging left wall of the corner. There are a few fun moves up the corner above to reach the anchors on the left. We continued up the upper, left-facing corner/hand crack. That was a bit of a thrutch at 5.8 or 5.9, but well protected.

Rolofson calls this climb 10d and shows 2 bolts excluding the anchors on the 12 to the left. Rossiter calls it... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jan 30, 2009

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Comments: This was 11+ when my brother Paul and I both redpointed it on my birthday in the early 90s. It's now the hardest rated climb I've done, but I think redpointing Kligfield's Follies was subjectively the hardest climb I've redpointed.

There's a flake at the crux (out of the picture to the right--the roof is much bigger than the photo shows it to be) that you can grab with your toes. When I did it I had at least one bare foot to grab that flake. The bare feet suck when you get to the foot jams depi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Haywire (5.9+ R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Dec 7, 2008

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Comments: I thought this was very hard for 9+, more like somewhere in difficulty between Over the Hill and the dihedral on Aerial Book. In fact, I hung more on this than when leading Aerial Book! Perhaps that was because I was thinking 5.9 and then got demoralized. Place a couple of small cams in the upper corner to prevent your wires from lifting up as the corner steepens and leans right. The bottom roof was a little spooky, due to the crusty rock and not being able to see where you were going.

We belay... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Vixen (5.11a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: I'm glad at least a few people think this is harder than the 10c guidebook rating. I was desperate under the ceiling despite having the advantage of a double draw hanging from the bolt over the lip. Once I got the jug, the ceiling itself was easy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Dog Breath (5.10)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: On the upper half, if you start from the corner and diagonal right, it's very easy. That felt like cheating, but that's how the three of us did it. Going straight up at the bolts was too hard. The guide says 10d, so maybe the intent is to climb at the bolts, but all the chalk was out left on the big holds.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Li'l Dog (5.11a/b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 23, 2008

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Comments: Fun but pretty easy. This was my first climb of the day, and I was real solid. I had more trouble with Snoopy 9+ just to the left. That may say more about my strengths and weaknesses as a climber than about the relative grades.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Tempest (5.10c PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 2, 2008

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Comments: I got hurt on this yesterday. I was climbing very badly, but, since I'd done it twice before, pushed past the poorly placed third piece and tried to move out to the arÍte. Got gripped, tried to get back, grabbed the top piece, it pulled, and I hit the spike with my left foot. Fortunately, it doesn't seem to be broken. A short lower, a short rappel, lots of tape, a stick, and lots of hobbling got me down to the road.

Lessons:
  • Just because you've done it before, doesn't mean you can do it again...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : On Ballet (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 2, 2008

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Comments: I had fun climbing this yesterday in a single pitch with a 70m. I ran it out quite a bit to conserve gear and minimize rope drag. With a 60m I think the second would need to scramble up a ways on the very easy rock at the bottom.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Transcontinental Nailway (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 19, 2008

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Comments: A nice variation at about 10a with decent pro goes left from the top of the corner above the crux and then straight up to the anchors. This avoids the scary 8 face move at the end of the regular route (which steps right out of the corner and then back left across an unprotected face).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Gory Thumb (5.9 PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 19, 2008

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Comments: It's a bit easier and positive to climb the face just right of the thin crack.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Mother's Day Party (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 19, 2008

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Comments: I think the description describes a variation that angles right out of the curving left facing corner to reach the MF bolt anchors. That's the sensible way to TR it from the MF anchors, but I believe the original route continued up and left in the arching corner past another crux move involving (for me) a one finger jam to reach the gigantic hand traverse flake.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wild Horses (5.9+ R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 25, 2008

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Comments: There were about 7 people on the first ascent of the first pitch. Perhaps only the 4 listed here continued to the top? Both of the Swain guides, Gray Dick, and Gunks Select all list only 4 FA'ists. Maybe Black Dick has the full story, but I can't find my copy.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Kor Route (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: The last pitch pretty much spoiled the route for me. Grungy loose rock with big runouts--the runouts were perhaps my choice due to trying to move fast, but it was pretty dangerous and very out of character with the lower pitches. The rock was better but much steeper further left, and further right would have put us into the grass of the rap route. We topped out at a notch just climber's right of the rap anchors, which were not visible from that point, and we first went climber's right, towards t... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: I had a great time on this route and thought it was really good. The crux pitch is wild, but not that difficult, with good gear. Fun stemming looking down between your legs 800' to the ground. Route finding was easy with info from here and from the Gillett guide--keep angling right until you have to angle back left. One hint that was useful was the "step down" in the original post. At the point where you can make a short step down and keep moving left, there is a corner directly above. The step ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jul 19, 2008

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Comments: Descent: From the one bolt and gear anchor at the top, stay roped and angle left and through a notch onto the west face. Traverse straight horizontally across a slab at about 5.5 to the cave with the bolts above Recon, etc. Two raps to the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : City Streets (5.10+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jul 19, 2008

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Comments: Dick and Todd have me, Joe Bridges and Dick Saum for the FA in 76. That's what I've always thought, but I really don't remember putting a pin in. I only placed a few pins in my life, and most of those quickly fell out (the Star Action pins stayed in for a long time). Perhaps the pin was added later, or, if the pin was already there, perhaps we did not do the FA.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Sharksfin : Sharkstone (5.8)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: See the North Face route for a photo of the start. You could also start below the right side of the east face. The "obvious polished ramp" wasn't so obvious to us. To me it was a low angle corner with a wide crack. I had fun doing easy hand stacks as I worked my feet up the low angle left wall of the corner.

We must have climbed the wrong second pitch. Our second pitch started from the highest point of the ledge, just right of a grassy area. A hard move to start led to an awkward stance from wh... more >>


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