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At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but look...


Member Since: Nov 25, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 2654 | Routes 106 | Areas 5 | Photos 1338 | Page Improvements | Comments 484 | Posts 11 | Stars 491 | Ratings 219
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Maternal Damnation (5.10)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: P1 felt quite a bit harder than the 10a pitches on Broadmoor, so maybe 10b? But it was my first time climbing at Mary's Bust, my first pitch of the day, and I was self belaying. It felt reasonable on TR, but I knew the moves by then. I should have read Bernard's beta about moving right at bolt 5. It took me some hang time to figure that out.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: The Big Thompson Canyon page on Mountain Project says Mary's Bust is 7.7 miles from Mall Road in Estes Park. Both my moto and my friends' car registered 8.1 miles. There were rock formations at 7.7, but they didn't match the photo, so we kept heading down canyon.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Broadmoor (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: I self-belayed this yesterday via P1 of Maternal Damnation. Had a hard time and hung at bolts 5 and 6 of Maternal Damnation, but otherwise it went well and clean. I was pretty beat by the end, and my feet hurt from all the knobs. P2 (P1 of Broadmoor proper) was the most fun with a wild swing left (on a slab!) and the smooth out of character brown rock above. P4 is steep at first and crumbly, but not bad. The missing bolt/0.75 cam placement is a little odd. The cam isn't great, and the moves ther... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Wine and Roses (5.11-)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: Although I didn't get this clean, I enjoyed the struggle. The moves through the small roof were bizarre for me. This climb is a bit tainted by the more recent bolted route to the right. On the FA it would have been obvious to stem to the right and step right for a rest, but now that the other route is there doing that felt like cheating. But I did it anyway.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Diagonal (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: I also did the left "escape" on P2 while self belaying today. I had not read about it here, but it looked much more appealing than the undercling out right (no fist or hand jams for me). The move left is maybe 5.7 if you are tall enough to stem out left, else it could be a bit more exciting with a bit of a dangle.

I thought the first pitch crux was quite hard, and I was gripped enough to lunge for the little tree. On TR when cleaning it still felt hard.

With a 70m rope you can get down in 2 ra... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Footloose (5.8)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Annie and I did Foot Loose and Fancy Free one after the other, but not, I think, the same day, given that Don Lauber was also on the FA of Foot Loose but not of Fancy Free. The next year, and before these two routes were in a guidebook, Hugh Herr did did a 5.11 route at Sky Top called Footloose and Fancy Free. This was apparently very accurately named, because Hugh's artifical foot fell off on one attempt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: The Steve Levin guide says the FFA was by Jim Erickson in '72 "onsight solo". Pretty cool. There's a bit of a ledge below the roof, but maybe not enough to keep you off the ground if you blew the solo.

The "onsight solo FFA" phrasing is a little odd. You would think you'd only get one try (with up and downs) if soloing, and any earlier attempt, aid, free, solo or not, would negate the onsight.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Arcane Saw (5.8+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 3, 2010

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Comments: We think we did this route, but we didn't see any reasonable way to do the initial moves, so we stepped from the tree onto the face. After that it was about 5.7 skirting the ceiling on the right. This is an OK route as a 5.7 if you're looking for an end of day climb in this area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : The Bitter Route (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 3, 2010

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Comments: This is a challenging lead at the grade, and worthwhile if you're looking for that kind of challenge. The initial moves required yarding off a suspect flake in the red band. Good gear after that leads to the small ceiling. There's a good cam at the lip, and you can get several marginal pieces in the two thin vertical cracks above that. The crux step up is pretty hard given the suspect gear, but it's over as soon as you stand up. More good gear can convince you to make one more hard move straight... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : January Rush (5.8+ PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: I was gripped following the hand traverse. The handholds are slanting and slick, and there are basically no foot holds. If the second falls off he would end up below the roof. If the leader falls off he would swing right and below the roof, but might be able to get back on.

The post for January Playmate mentions descent bolts out left. We didn't see any, and the Steve Levin Eldo guide doesn't mentions the flake with slings but no bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Self Abuse (5.10)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: My self esteem has been restored after seeing the rating of this climb on Mountain Project. The Steve Levin guide calls this 10a, and we thought it would be a good start of the season climb. After 2 or 3 hangs at the lip I got it, and the moves seemed reasonable, but to onsight it seemed pretty hard. Rossiter calls this 10b/c. If you are short this could be really hard since you might not be able to reach from the giant foothold out left to the crack in the roof.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Slip and Slide (5.10d)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: Me being me, I placed 6 pieces of gear--a red Camalot and a micro cam around the 3rd bolt, a couple of pieces higher, and two small wires at the last moves. I ended up in that "alcove" with the old bolt and had to make a 10 long step left to get back on line. Is that the route? The description mentions a reachy traverse left. Climbing straight up looked pretty hard, and the holds led up and right.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Diamondback (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: There is a great yellow Metolius offset MasterCam in a small pocket protecting what was for me the distinct crux about 2/3 of the way up. An Alien or similar might also work.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Lounge Lizard (5.10b/c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: We went right of the 3rd bolt and stepped back left to the 4th bolt. It made sense at the time and was much easier. On TR it turned out the moves at the 3rd bolt were not as hard as they seemed during the onsight. Near the top we were a bit left of the bolt line and entered a bit of an alcove featuring an old bolt.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Wicked Game (5.10d R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: Being tall and on TR, the roof was pretty easy. Jam, jug, jug. My partner had more trouble. There were some thoughtful, maybe 9ish moves midway. The final moves were maybe low 10, pulling up and right via a thin sidepull. What shows of the "ancient pin" looks good to me, a 5/8" angle(?) with a bit of rest, but what doesn't show may be worse. The pin can be easily backed up with gear.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Guenese (5.11a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: Belaying accident: I had a strange accident when belaying Lisa Apprill on Guenese a couple of weeks ago.

Lisa had asked me to move my belay from down and right to just below the start. I was sitting on a comfy flat rock a couple of feet left of the first pin. Lisa had a lot of trouble clipping the second bolt. Because of that she was extra tired moving left to the third bolt. She fell, and I was immediately airborne, despite outweighing Lisa by 40-50 pounds.

I figure I was lifted up maybe just... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Dead Deer Cracks (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 30, 2009

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Comments: This climb was hard for me. I used a handstack followed by a fist jam to get past the crux. Smaller hands may have more difficulty. Gillett's description made it sound like the crux would be twin finger cracks, but the finger cracks are relatively easy and also are not really cracks, but rather occasional openings in parallel seams.

I used a gray Camalot (new #4, old #3.5) at the wide section followed by a #2 in the back of the crack. Above that there is an optional but bomber... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : ... : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 24, 2009

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Comments: I believe that bolt above the Metamorphosis midway belay is meant to protect the traverse left into Urine Trouble. It was replaced recently.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Overpass (5.11c) : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: It seems to me he's working up to the third bolt rather than the second. The second bolt is visible between his legs.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : East Ridge : R.N.R (5.9+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 25, 2009

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Comments: Apparently R.N.R. stands for Rednecks in Rome. The FA may have been done by Alvino Pon. In the Rossiter Eldo guide, Rossiter says that the info for this area came from Alvino via an article in Rock and Ice #54. Alvino is responsible for many climbs in St Vrain Canyon.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Nose Drops (5.9-)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 24, 2009

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Comments: See the two October 2008 photos under Ursula. We climbed straight up to those pins at about 5.9. I don't know anything more than that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Vergin' on Perversion (5.11c R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 20, 2009

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Comments: P1 is good by itself as a long 10 mixed section to the 11a bolted crux. There were several hard moves on the 10 section with some funky rock. There was one runout near the top where you start a 9 sequence with the gear below your feet. You may be able to sling a thin and doubtful flake on the right if you are tall enough. There are 3 bolts near the bottom and 3 bolts at the 11a crux plus another higher bolt. I used gear to a gold Camalot. There may be placements for bigger cams to #4 Camal... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Asahi (5.10c PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 20, 2009

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Comments: I did this yesterday for the second time. The first crux seemed quite easy, perhaps since I knew to stay high. There was another confusing crux higher moving right to the arête. Both Lenny and I thought P2 was as hard or harder than P1. It was definitely more insecure.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 20, 2009

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Comments: Triples are not too much! We carried triple Camalots from .75 to 3 and double 4s (old 3.5) and ran out of gear on P2 and P5. On P2, after placing a mediocre small piece--almost my last piece of any size--up and right of the belay, I downclimbed about 40' to retrieve enough gear to belay off to the left. On P4 I used all of the hand-sized cams despite trying to skip pieces. P5 really wants 4 or 5 gold Camalots. We had three this year, and Chuck had to lower twice to back clean.

This climb feels ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Arcanum (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 17, 2009

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Comments: I looked up the definition of "arcanum" and found this:
"1. mysterious or specialized knowledge, language, or information accessible or possessed only by the initiate—usually used in plural."


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