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At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but looking around 15.


Member Since: Nov 25, 2001
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Ivan Rezucha


Point Rank: # 39
Total Points: 8,306
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
207 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ivan Rezucha been climbing?










Contributions


All 2637 | Routes 106 | Areas 5 | Photos 1338 | Page Improvements | Comments 481 | Posts 11 | Stars 479 | Ratings 217
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Nod (formerly submitted...
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: The new Poudre guide refers to the area left and right of East of Eden (from Billy's Face on the right, behind the tree, to Garden of Eden (sport, left of the arete) as "Eden Wall". The wall up and right hosting Moment of Clarity, etc. is referred to as "Nod". There's another, bigger wall up the hill and right of Nod.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Face to Face (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 16, 2010

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Comments: The last bit of the last pitch, 5.9 angling left to the top, was first done by John Stannard as as hard finishing variation to Three Vultures.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : The Offset (5.9+ R)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 15, 2010

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Comments: This can be easily top roped by climbing the first pitch of Shiva's Dance to the bolts. Place some directionals as you lower down The Offset. Cams from 0.5 (gray) to #2 (gold) Camalots work. The diagonal cracks between The Offset and Shiva's Dance can be climbed at about 5.9, but getting back onto The Offset is difficult. I made a hard move left at the top of the cracks. You may also be able to do a difficult face move straight up to the crux of The Offset.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Shiva's Dance (5.7)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 15, 2010

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Comments: I thought this first pitch of Shiva's Dance was very good and am surprised that I had never climbed it, and perhaps never even noticed it. There is a two bolt anchor at the top for rapping. You can toprope The Offset (hard and thin and sketchy gear) from there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Mausoleum (5.11d PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 15, 2010

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Comments: I was at the anchors at the base of Mausoleum after doing the first pitch of Cryptomaniac looking up at this for quite a while. I decided I had to try it, since it looked a lot like a gym climb, and I've been derisively referring to myself as a gym climber recently.

The first clip is well protected by a #0.75 Camalot on the right. The second clip is dicey--if you blow it and fall it would be a ledge fall. I ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Park Avenue : Heart of the Desert (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 14, 2010

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Comments: Spectacular! I TR'd it and fell once trying to layback the wide spot in the middle. It's very sandy if you're laybacking. I was then able to climb that part quite easily using fist jams and foot stacks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 14, 2010

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Comments: We exited left at the top of the third pitch following our otherwise reliable friends who were climbing ahead of us. Apparently their guidebooks says to go left despite it being obvious to go straight up. Going left pretty much sucked although it was airy. You have to belay out on the edge due to rope drag. Getting back to the Kor Ingalls involves angling left across a scary big rocking block to a belly crawl. To get to the top in one pitch involves major rope drag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : ... : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 30, 2010

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Comments: I've never been worried about hitting the ledge. You can get a good brass nut a couple of feet above the pin.


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 14, 2010

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Comments: Lower Tier routes from right to left.
Ratings are approximate; see consensus ratings for more detail.
If you have any corrections, let me know, and I'll correct this list.

Olympic Free Style Goat Toss 11a
Capra Diem P1 5.8, P2 11+
Empire of the Goats P1 10+, P2 12b/c
Ram 10c
No Goats, No Glory 12a
Clan of the Goatmen 11c
Satyr 11c
Goat Goes Up, Must Come Down 10c
Supergoat 11+
Sacrificial Goat 12b/c
Bad, Bad Goat 12a


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : No Goats, No Glory (5.12a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 14, 2010

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Comments: P1 has a short bit of good hard climbing at maybe 10d. The horizontal at the crux is a little dirty and rounded. Climbing that last move straight up is quite hard. Moving left is a bit easier. It may also be possible to move right.


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Ram (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 14, 2010

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Comments: Fun enough. I did it trad, but it doesn't make any difference difficulty-wise. Gear is good and easy, and where you want it. The "easy clip" anchors were welcome.


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Olympic Free Style Goat Tos... (5.11)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 14, 2010

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Comments: We really enjoyed this route. From below, we thought the black overhangs were going to be the crux. We didn't even consider that it went over the final overhang. Then, from the Capra Diem belay, we began to get a clue, and began to get worried. The climbing is pretty easy up to the crux, maybe 5.9. There's a bit of a reach to get to the crux moves, and then some good tip holds lead over the lip. Lots of long slings makes the rope run nicely.

This is the rightmost route on the Lower Tier (as far... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Capra Diem (5.8)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 14, 2010

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Comments: P1 is mediocre and maybe 5.7. Easy climbing leads to a short dirty crux. The anchors are set back a bit, so we belayed from the anchors and then rapped. P2 looks confusing with two bolted lines leading left from the belay, one low and one high.


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Empire of the Goats (5.12b/c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 14, 2010

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Comments: This climb starts just right of the obvious, left-leaning corner of Ram, where the trail meets the lower tier. P1 is pretty good and is maybe hard 10 with medium hard moves at the bottom and top and a reachy crux in the middle.

The anchors at the top of P1 are set way back, so you may want to rap rather than lower.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Endless Wall : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: The moves off the ground seemed very hard with a potential ground fall. Way harder than P1 of Printer Boy.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Finger Food Wall : Popsicle (5.5 PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: We climbed the arching corner just left of Popsicle that joins Popsicle about 2/3 of the way up. We thought we were on Food Fight 5.7, but I think that's a bit further left (and often wet), since there are bolts above the further left line. The route we did was of decent quality and about 5.7 with some thin gear.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : I'll be Black (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: Clipping the second bolt pretty much sucked. Clipping it from below you'd be in the middle of a crux move with a ledge fall. I was able to clip it leaning off the crack on the right, but even that was a bit dicey. This was a great climb, and a great looking climb, with hard moves sometimes above the bolts but with good rests in between.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Lincoln Creek Cliff : Peruvian Flake (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: Fun route despite the wandering. The flake itself is quite easy. You can get a very good #3 Camalot at the far side of the obvious slot. All 3 in our party thought the crux was the easy looking crack at the very top. I used a fist jam to top out.

I thought I had heard about Peruvian Flake. It turns out it's a climb in the Royal Arches area of Yosemite which may be where I heard of it. It's also a prized variety of cocaine, apparently.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 12, 2010

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Comments: I believe we camped at this exact spot last summer on the first night of a 3 day loop backpack.

Re-reading this, I need to add NOT at this exact spot, but a little bit off the left of the photo.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Raubenheimer Special (5.7 PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 3, 2010

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Comments: Raubenheimer may or may not be stiff for its grade at 5.7, but it sure was stiff for its grade as a 5.5 when I first did it. My brother Paul and I were ready to break into 5.5 in 72 or so. We decided to do Dennis and Raubenheimer. Paul lost the coin toss (although we didn't know at first how badly he lost) and led Raubenheimer. I then led Dennis. So our first 5.5 was 5.7?

Similarly, and around the same time, I hitchhiked out to Boulder during Easter with my friend Steve Reiefenstuhl. One of the... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 3, 2010

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Comments: "Why is the ground on the right side of the photo?"

This is one of those roof photos where there is no good way to orient it. I just now tried to rotate it counter clockwise 90 degrees, and then the right wall looks like a flat sidewalk, and the left wall looks very overhanging. So I left it as is with the left wall looking like a sidewalk and the right wall looking very overhanging.

Or perhaps you were kidding about the right side looking like the ground?


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : Foops (5.11)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 23, 2010

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Comments: My brother Paul reminded me of an article in the short-lived North American Climber with a title something like, "Rezucha brothers swing through Foops." Apparently we were the first ascent where someone led Foops and the other followed. And, we were brothers (still are!). The usual way to do Foops is for someone to lead to above the lip and then drop off. Someone else in the party then attempts to do the same. The problem with following it is that if you fall you swing out into space and have to... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Maternal Damnation (5.10)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: P1 felt quite a bit harder than the 10a pitches on Broadmoor, so maybe 10b? But it was my first time climbing at Mary's Bust, my first pitch of the day, and I was self belaying. It felt reasonable on TR, but I knew the moves by then. I should have read Bernard's beta about moving right at bolt 5. It took me some hang time to figure that out.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: The Big Thompson Canyon page on Mountain Project says Mary's Bust is 7.7 miles from Mall Road in Estes Park. Both my moto and my friends' car registered 8.1 miles. There were rock formations at 7.7, but they didn't match the photo, so we kept heading down canyon.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Broadmoor (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: I self-belayed this yesterday via P1 of Maternal Damnation. Had a hard time and hung at bolts 5 and 6 of Maternal Damnation, but otherwise it went well and clean. I was pretty beat by the end, and my feet hurt from all the knobs. P2 (P1 of Broadmoor proper) was the most fun with a wild swing left (on a slab!) and the smooth out of character brown rock above. P4 is steep at first and crumbly, but not bad. The missing bolt/0.75 cam placement is a little odd. The cam isn't great, and the moves ther... more >>


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