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At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but looking around 15.


Member Since: Nov 25, 2001
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Ivan Rezucha


Point Rank: # 39
Total Points: 8,306
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
199 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ivan Rezucha been climbing?










Contributions


All 2622 | Routes 106 | Areas 5 | Photos 1338 | Page Improvments | Comments 481 | Posts 10 | Stars 469 | Ratings 213
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Fight or Flight (5.9+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: Two cruxes, a hand jam move with not much for the feet midway, and a high step over the roof at the top. Good rests before each crux. There's a "10A" scratched in the rock at the base, presumably by the first ascent party.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Dizzi Lizzi (5.10)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: One harder move at the top past a tiny ceiling, but with a full rest to the left. Otherwise easy.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cheeseburger In Paradise (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: There are a couple of interesting and puzzling moves in the shallow, right-facing corner midway, but otherwise this is pretty easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Midnight Express (5.10d)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 4, 2011

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Comments: Connect the bottom dihedral of Midnight Express to upper Stroke of Midnight for a nice 10a.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Tinsel Town aka BR 2? (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: I believe this is called BR 2 in the D'Antonio guide. I enjoyed this, but perhaps I'm way more tolerant than others of sketchy rock. The overhanging pockety (but sandy) rock at the bottom was cool looking and fun to climb. If I was trad climbing, I would have wrapped a long sling around the semi detached pillar near the top, at the roof. We went around the roof on the right, not realizing the route was meant to climb the roof. After going around the roof on the right it felt pretty silly steppin... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Slicer (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: I think this is rated 10a in the D'Antonio guide. It seemed really hard for 10a. Amazingly sharp up higher, including the horizontal surfaces of some big jugs.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Once Upon a Time (5.11a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: The clip after standing was difficult off of thin tips. Higher up was scary for me with another difficult clip out left leaning off of sloped side pull.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Shelfish (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: The midway roof can be climbed directly on jugs, making a better line.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: I attempted to lead trad and self-belayed the corner to the roof between Skimbleshanks and Old Deuteronomy. There was no gear to the base of the corner (big cams might work). Good gear can be arranged at the base of the corner out right and a few feet higher in the corner. Another few feet higher I got a small RP sideways on the left wall. My feet were a few feet above this when I bailed, with hands a couple of feet below the ceiling on the right wall. The climbing was easy, maybe 5.8?, palming ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Boring (5.9 X)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 9, 2011

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Comments: I was never able to lead P2 despite trying several times. I'd get half way up or so and then angle one way or the other (don't remember) to live another day. P1 is fun, steep and juggy, with some gear, and worth doing on its own.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Left Side : Most of the Time (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Feb 28, 2011

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Comments: The top half of this was quite good and a little run out. The bottom was a bit decrepit. We climbed it as shown in the photo here. There are other possibilities further left. The photo in the D'Antonio guide is not clear. At the top, we moved right to the bolts above Don't Ask rather than walking off as described above.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : The Guillotine (5.10c) : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Feb 16, 2011

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Comments: When I led that pitch maybe 9 years ago, I was carrying my descent shoes clipped to the back of my harness. I was half way up the chimney and looked over to the side, and there was one of my shoes. It had come unclipped but somehow wedged itself in the chimeny.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Lower Tier : Where's Ron (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jan 16, 2011

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Comments: Of the routes on this lower right wall of Bihedral, I enjoyed this the most despite the somewhat chossy rock. It climbed like a trad climb and felt a bit airy. We traversed left to the Tinnitus anchors rather than scrambling way up right to the Release the Kraaken anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : DH1? (5.9+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jan 9, 2011

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Comments: Loose Rock Warning:
I took a short fall yesterday when I almost pulled off a 18" x 4" x 4" block on P2. I let go of the block (good instinct), fell, and grabbed the rope (bad instinct) and burned my hand a bit. The loose block is on P2 in the left-slanting, right-facing corner/ramp. This is just above the two close-together bolts above some easy trad climbing and just left of a 2-bolt anchor. I held onto the block, which seemed to be an integral part of the rock, as I pulled into the corner from... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : DH1? (5.9+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jan 9, 2011

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Comments: Lenny Miller and I repeated this yesterday and did the route exactly as described by Leo. It's really hard to decide where to go--the route wanders and attempts to force you to climb hard bits here and there. Most cruxes can be easily avoided. My partner Lenny thinks the upper parts of this route are Black Elk, a route described in Bob d'Antonio's Boulder Canyon guide (which I don't have). For me, the move near the top through a short flare to a tiny tree was the crux. The lower crux through an ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Knight's Move (5.7)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Dec 20, 2010

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Comments: I did this for the first time yesterday, self belayed. I thought it was very exciting and airy. Maybe as a 5.7 climber I wouldn't have enjoyed it as much. The only loose rock of any significance is the block you hold onto (lightly) as you step left to the V. I don't know what the "tons of loose rock" comments refer to. Once you have stepped left, you are pretty run out (assuming you didn't put any gear in the red band), and you have to work to stay calm and fiddle some gear in. There's a very go... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Bushwack Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 28, 2010

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Comments: I had a hard time with this today. The start is not "good finger locks" as stated in the description, at least not for me, and I don't have sausage fingers. I could only get half a tip in at most until my feet were on that horizontal about 9' off the ground. Doing the hand crack up the left side of the block, my right hand got stuck, and I almost came off. Pulling on the block was scary. It seems solid, and looks real solid from above (at which point you can't see the narrow base). The runout ab... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Saturday's Folly (5.8+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: The face off the ground between the two Follies goes on TR at about 5.9 or maybe harder if you can't make some key reaches. The holds are surprisingly positive and mostly big. This can lead to the thin crack variation or the variation described by Tony.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly (5.7)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: As of today. the pin a little ways off the ground is loose and moves about 1/4" up and down. Don't count on it. Instead, there is an excellent 0.5/purple Camalot just below it and various good gear around the corner.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: This felt very easy. Big and positive holds all the way. Frequent rests. The last moves at the top to the new anchor on the right seemed to be the crux for me, but even there you are in balance, and just have to figure things out. Much easier than Left Over Stuff for me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Superstone (5.11c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 7, 2010

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Comments: The Levin guide says to step out left after the crux and up the flared "fist crack". Then back right, but how far right? The climb is confusing in that you can climb left, straight up, or right. Straight up is definitely not cheating (and that's why I haven't done it that way), but left or right feels like cheating.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Love it or Hate it (5.11b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 6, 2010

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Comments: The rock seemed totally solid to me, but it does look bad. The first half of the route is relatively easy, but then it steepens. Fortunately, although it's a bit of a a cheat, you can step left or right at various points for good rests.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat Stick Direct 5.10b (5.10b PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: What happened? This used to be such a good 9. As 10b, this is probably the hardest Gunks route I self-belayed, unless some other route I've done was upgraded more. I remember having trouble hanging out on the last pitch roofs getting gear in and dealing with the rope.

As for self-belaying, I'm been doing it since year 1 (or 2?), that is, for 38 or 39 years now. I remember self belaying 5.1s and 5.2s at Seneca with prusiks in 71 or 72. (I did Fat Stick Direct using Jumars.) I self belayed some g... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Eden Wall : East of Eden (5.9)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: Excellent climb, "real" (as I like to say) with a big feel. I motorcycled up from Boulder and self-belayed it. The trip was well worth it for this one pitch.

The crux for me by far was the first moves. I almost backed off. There are a few other 9 moves above, but the climb gets easier and easier as you get higher, with good holds and ledges appearing on the right wall, and the occasional hold for stemming on the left wall. I only did a few hand and foot jams, most of those low down. At one poin... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 17, 2010

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Comments: More detail on getting there:
From Stove Prairie Road, head west a couple of miles to The Narrows, where climbable rock closes in on the road on both sides. Shortly after you cross the bridge which puts you on the north side of the river, East of Eden, the obvious, large, right-facing dihedral, will be facing you on the right side of the road. There is a small pullout on the right, and there is a large lone pine tree on a ledge a little right of the dihedral.


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