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At Glacier Point in 1980 at 28 years old, but look...


Member Since: Nov 25, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 22, 2015
Contact Ivan Rezucha

Point Rank: # 43
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2654 | Routes 106 | Areas 5 | Photos 1338 | Page Improvements | Comments 484 | Posts 11 | Stars 491 | Ratings 219
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 19, 2015

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Comments: The "red thing" is the tails of a 2" tubular red webbing swami belt tied with a water knot, very common at that time. Home made legloops are 2" flat webbing.


Location: Ivan Rezucha : Yosemite : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Hi Uwe!

The 60/40 was "stolen" by Bob Richardson many years ago. The Sierra Designs down "sweater" eventually shredded. I have other things from that era that I still wear and use.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : The Emeralds : The Benches : ... : Cast Off (5.8)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 21, 2015

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Comments: There are no rings on the anchor bolts. The last person needs to lead easy rock up and left onto the big ledge to good bolts and rings on the left.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : The Emeralds : The Benches : ... : Cast in Stone (5.8)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 21, 2015

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Comments: This is on Negativity Slab and should be moved to that area.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Revenge of the Relics (5.10a PG13)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: The second pitch is the climb. The described first pitch is just the approach. The second pitch starts from the left side of the Strictly's ledge and (as I remember) climbs up and left to the rounded arete between Strictly's and (?) the Splashtic face. It's a little dicey. I remember a small Tricam. At the roof the gear is good. You move right and over the roof a bit left of Strictly's. Above that the climb peters out with no interesting place to go, so, the few times I did it, we climbed right ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Greg, you can do it all sport or all trad, including the belay anchors trad. There was a big flame war about this when Bob D. first did it. All related comments were removed, I thought, but now I see my comments from that time (maybe only I see them?). Bob D's comments are not there. It's fun either way.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Photo
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: It's looking out from inside Skytop Tower.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Lost and Found (5.6)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: Annie O'Neill and I named this climb. We did what we thought was the FA (other than for a pesky fixed pin) back in the 80s. Because of the pin, we named it "Lost and Found". It was done (apparently by Ants Leemets), then lost, then found again (by us).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Mar 14, 2012

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Comments: I TR'd this on self belay "in a single pitch" a couple of years ago using the bolts above Recon as the anchor and a 70m rope. The rope reached to just below the starting hard moves of Diffraction. It was spooky rapping down to the tail of the rope and then starting back up on the 10a Diffraction moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Get Shorty (5.10a/b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Oct 22, 2011

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Comments: There is a new (to me) extended finish to this that goes a bit right and up some right-facing corners and aretes. It's quite fun and interesting, but it is a bit run out between the bolts. Maybe 9+ or so. There is an old bolt a bit right of the new bolts, so this finish may coincide with that old route that's just left of Where Eagles Dare.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Lady Fingers (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: This was way harder than the two "10c"'s we did earlier, Lord of the Files and White Dwarf. There's a perplexing slab move near the top of the slab section. The corner is sustained and a bit scary due to a potential ledge fall if one piece pulls. Once you start up the corner it's hard to stop to place gear. A #0.75 Camalot (green) is useful at the top. I placed a #0.5, but it was umbrella'd.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : White Dwarf (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: I placed three pieces, a medium nut, a finger-sized cam, and a #0.5 Camalot. You don't need anything bigger. The crack on the right takes bigger gear if you must place bigger gear. There's only one hard move, and that's optional, moving directly up to the anchors. You can instead move left to the arete and back right to the anchors.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Lord of the Flies (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: This was fun but very easy for 10c. The crux, which according the guidebook is at the top, felt like 9. Very straighforward with good feet and hands leading to the crack that leads to the anchors. The crux for me was about midway where after hand traversing left you end up balanced in a left-facing corner. Getting back right out of that corner was a bit dicey.


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : BaaaD To The Bone (5.9+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: The start was way hard for 9+, and from the comments I now know why. You could easily come off and hit the slab. The first clip was spooky, since you have to lean out from the top of the slab a bit with not much for your hands. There are one or two other interesting moves in the 8 or 9 range, but the climbing is inconsistent, especially with the new hard start.


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : High Flying Goats (5.8)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Turning the corner seemed a bit dangerous for a 5.8 sport route. The bolt is to the left of the groove you are climbing as you exit right out of the groove. You'd take a bit of a swing and hit the corner if you came off. The rock was a little loose. My partner knocked a big chunk off in the corner that hit the ground near me. Helmets are a good idea at Goat Rock. I knocked a huge rock off scrambling from the anchors at the top of the second tier up to Eric the Goat when my toe hooked under somet... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Eric The Goat (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Pleasant but mostly easy. You can move left at the crux either high or low. There are two bolts very close together, ~1 foot apart, at the crux for some reason. I see from the description that the reason is this was bolted on the lead from hooks.


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Solitary Goat (5.8)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: This is the best way to get to the upper tier, to Eric the Goat and High Flying Goat. Very nice glassy slab with perfect, 1/4" edge intrusions.


Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock : Goats on the Fringe (5.8)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Very easy with one interesting move over an overhang. Solitary Goat is much better.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : Like Water for Bob (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Powerful and reachy but all big holds with good rests. Easier for me than I'll be Dipped.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : I'll be Dipped (5.10b)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: This was way harder than Square Dance just to the right, although it looked easier. I did my occasional sport fist jam to get past the final ceiling.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : Hoo-doggy (5.8)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: We enjoyed this route most of the 5 routes we did at Hillbilly 1. It's quite airy as you traverse right with your feet either on the prow or aretes or the lip of a roof.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : World Domination : Thor (5.10a)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: Thor is a good looking line that is intimidating from the ground, but it turns out to be very easy except for the first move. Big holds and rests after every move.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Hound Dog Crag : Big Bear Memorial (5.10c)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: This is a very striking trad-like route. There's a hard move at the very bottom and another hard move at the top to reach the anchors. In between it's very steep but with big holds and good stems. A 70m rope easily gets you back to the ground. A 60m gets you to easy ground that you can scramble down, but, as noted in the description, be sure to tie a knot in the end of the rope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Hustle (5.9+)
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 23, 2011

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Comments: We had no gear, so I wallowed up left via the hand crack, lay on my belly, and slung a chockstone. Stepped right to the bolt and higher up jammed a knot in a crack. Along the way I TR'd the roof just left of the route to the right. It was pretty good, at 10 something with a long reach to start.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty
By: Ivan Rezucha When: Jun 18, 2011

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Comments: If you got a cam stuck at Sleeping Beauty recently, and if you want it back, identify the cam and the climb on which it was stuck, and it's yours.


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