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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: IanA When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A note to whoever took the fixed line down:
The fixed line is there for a reason. It is there as a service to the climbing community to access the upper area of the Watch Crystal Crag and for emergency purposes. It is maintained by La Plata County Search and Rescue and is replaced multiple times a year. Being able to ascend this fixed line during a emergency is critical for rescue personnel to be able to setup the rope system to evacuate a injured person.
Unfortunately your timing on taking th... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Durango : Freed Canyon : Freed Canyon Falls (WI4)
By: IanA When: Feb 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dylan,
I don't think we will ever have problems with the Williamson property, since he is a climber. We do need to have a serious discussion with him about securing an easement across his land to insure future access in case he ever sells it. Also, it is not the Mr. Nicholas's property you have to worry about, it is actually William Solecki's property.
P.S. Remember if you are hiking up to Freed and you take the path of least resistance (meaning in the creek or fire line to creek), you will be ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Goldrush (WI4)
By: IanA When: Nov 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric Dixon and I replaced some of the anchors on this today. The first anchor is still the rat's nest it always has been (3 tri-cams a hex and a piton). I personally have never used this anchor as I just combine pitch 1 & 2 into a 60m pitch. The 2nd pitch now has two nice and shiny bolts. When rapping, you can make it to the ground from this anchor with 2 60m ropes. The old fixed anchor came out with surprising ease.
The third anchor that is in the gully is now two bolts instead of one...but we ... more >>
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Location: chosspector : photos : Photo
By: IanA When: Aug 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric, This is the Tiger Strip Wall. It is up the trail to Ice Lake Basin.
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Location: CO : Durango : Sailing Hawks
By: IanA When: Apr 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks S.Price for your kind words. Next time you are in town look me up and we'll go climbing!
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Location: CO : Durango : Sailing Hawks
By: IanA When: Apr 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two great films by Chris Parker on some of the bouldering up at Sailing Hawks.
Sacred Traverse Video
Two at the Hawks Video
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Apple Cider (5.8)
By: IanA When: Mar 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seth, the anchor is on the ledge to the left at the top of the chimney. The moves are funky and tenuous for the grade. I think I do it different every time. If I am remembering correctly, you can get high in the chimney with good feet on the right hand side and then mantel out onto the ledge.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's : Byrd's Classic (5.8)
By: IanA When: Mar 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There has been a bolt anchor installed on two different occasions over the last 10 years, but someone in the community seems to take it upon themselves to chop it. I do agree that a bolted belay is no necessary since you can equalize the tree and a #3 Camalot, but it would be convenient to not have to walk over to either "Angel Dust" or "No Justice for Rodney." Most of all a bolted belay would ensure that we don't kill the poor tree that has suffered abuse for the sake of our recreational ... more >>
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Apes of Wrath (5.10)
By: IanA When: Mar 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seth, it is 6 bolts, I believe, from the anchors atop the first pitch of Durangatan to the 2 bolt anchor on Apes of Wrath. No need for any other gear.
Ian A.
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Location: CO : Durango : Sailing Hawks : Photo
By: IanA When: Jan 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dab....
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Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad
By: IanA When: Jan 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shhh.... Don't give it all away yet!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: IanA When: Nov 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought I would add a link to the 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: IanA When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn it, Tim. You maybe an "opinionated azzole", but you're our (Durango's) "opinionated azzole"! More the merrier! This bickering is all the more reason that these topics should be discussed before action is taken. Great discussion!
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: IanA When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay, time to play a little devil's advocate. At what point does a publicly owned piece of rock become the first ascentionist's? And why do they have the sole voice when it is on public land? Is it when he/she climbs it and chooses to install or not install hardware? When does the decision of retrobolting get passed on to the climbing population that is typically far more connected with that piece of rock than the first ascent party that did it 40 years ago?
My thought would be get a full cons... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Desert Siren (Tower) (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: IanA When: Oct 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: OMG! That thing is huge! How did we ever make it past that loose death pile?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: IanA When: Sep 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top Rope Hero, it is actually sandstone not granite.
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Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Animas City Rock Gym
By: IanA When: Aug 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Soon to be The Rock Lounge opening September 1st, 2010.
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Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Via Manolo (5.11b)
By: IanA When: Jun 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Manny Rangel.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : Nova Scotia : Halifax : Dover Island
By: IanA When: Jun 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a complete guide follow this link to Dr. Topo: Dover Island Guide
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : The Gooney Bird : Tea Party (5.10+ PG13)
By: IanA When: May 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few tricams would work well in the smaller pockets instead of the big cams that typically get place in bad rock.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: IanA When: Apr 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tim you said "I thought we were done with this but...." I'm just continuing the conversation. I know we all have different opinions and that those opinions change, and I totally agree with your comment on "for a community that prides themselves as being free-thinkers, we sure do paint ourselves into a tight box don't we..." (agree 100%). I too am just egging on conversation, because I don't have anything better to do and this is the most interesting topic Durango has ever had on MountainProject.... more >>
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: IanA When: Apr 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Direct quote from Durango Sandstone by Tim Kuss "trad: a person who is preoccupied with gear, and owns a collection of old-time books. A person who frequents East Animas and is too weak or scared to climb at Golf Wall."
I don't know Tim its starting to sound like the Golf Wall crowd is to scared to climb at East Animas.
Quote from Durango Sandstone by Tim Kuss "some routes have been climbed on marginal or slim protection and this is part of the challenge. You might not be good en... more >>
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: IanA When: Apr 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kozak: Even though I respect that the first ascentionist has the right to alter their routes I would have thought that from all the positive responses to keep this climb bolt free you would respect the wishes of the community.
Tim: Glad you like that there is a group of young guns that are still into the heady leads. Don't forget to give yourself a big pat on the back because it is first ascentionist like you, Kozak, Ken Trout, etc. that passed these ethics down to us.
Skyler... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Photo
By: IanA When: Apr 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tower Desert Siren is on the right side of this photo.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: IanA When: Apr 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tim:
I agree that a bolt would make the Contortionist more popular as a lead but does ever climb need to be brought down to the level of the average climber? Should we add bolts to the Bachar-Yerian to make it more accessible to the general climbing community? Its with in the same grade range and within the same general headspace as the Contortionist. Granted it is not as classic as the Bachar- Yerian but that does not mean that it dose not deserve the same respect!
Brad:
+1
Respectfully,
Ian... more >>
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