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Way Rambo


Member Since: Feb 15, 2006
Last Visit: Oct 26, 2014
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Point Rank: # 9,093
Total Points: 29
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ian been climbing?










Contributions


All 208 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 46 | Stars 78 | Ratings 68

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: Ian When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: As of April 1 2012, there was a wasp nest at the beginning of the pitch inside the cracks. My partner got stung a few times following. Use caution!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Redman (5.12a)
By: Ian When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: I got on this route thinking it was Whiteman, doing the direct start. The gear was spicy until the dihedral, but manageable. The offset nut I placed at the crux seemed iffy at the time, but it held the fall. It would have been nice if the second bolt was clippable before pulling the crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Ian When: Aug 7, 2010

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Comments: Linked the first two pitches, which made sense to me at the time, because if the micro nut blows at the crux, you'd fall down instead of swinging onto the bolted anchor and the pillar. Of course, you're likely to fall further, but I didn't test the theory. The swing is not a big deal for the follower if you place a nut loosely after the traverse. Everything will pull out when you move up and you can claim that you soloed the second pitch. :)


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Finger Crack (5.11a)
By: Ian When: Jul 26, 2009

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Comments: Possibly the hardest 5.11a at Lumpy.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Team Ropin (5.12-)
By: Ian When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: This is a cool line with tenuous and sustained stemming for 100+ feet. Bring a wire brush and watch out for holds that may break!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R) : Photo
By: Ian When: Mar 30, 2009

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Comments: Best picture ever!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - East Face : Spider Line (5.11d)
By: Ian When: Jan 4, 2009

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Comments: I thought the gear was pretty bomber on this route with a hand-size cam and a good finger piece protecting the cruxy start. It is definitely a safe, technical route that is worth doing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Ian When: Aug 25, 2008

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Comments: After failing miserably trying to go for the mono/finger-lock last time, I ended up doing what AC described in a moment of desperation this time around. It's not as obvious, but a lot easier than going for the seam ways up.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9)
By: Ian When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: I went from Loose Ends to J-Crack today. I didn't see the pin or the bolt and was looking at a 60 feet factor two fall past the belay. Scary! After that, the 5.11c crux didn't feel bad even in the rain. Finished on Cheap Date for a classic linkup.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles Corridor : Isles Corridor - Left Side : Crack 4 (5.10c R)
By: Ian When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: I almost fell on the copper head after a hold broke on me. The crack is good, but the pro sucks before that!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Jules Verne (5.11b/c R)
By: Ian When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: Don't let the film Scary Faces scare you away from this route. Like others have said, everything is there and the crux is overcome your own imagination and fear of how runout and hard the climbing may be. The gear at the roof is absolutely bomber and there is definitely good gear at the broken band. I'd say the climbing eases the further away you go from the roof if you keep a cool mind. If you get through the first pitch without a hitch, then the 3rd pitch is definitely not going to stop you. 2... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fa... (5.10a/b)
By: Ian When: Feb 20, 2007

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Comments: The crack above the roof is not unlike Coyne Crack at Indian Creek, and that's rated 11+. Rating a climb that involves a few ring-locks over a roof 10a is a bit stiff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Country Club Crack (5.11c)
By: Ian When: Sep 6, 2006

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Comments: A 60m rope will not reach the anchor on P1 of Athlete's Feat! I was about 5 feet short, dangling in the air. I could not find a placement for the #4 even though I brought it. I had a #3 above the roof, but one or two #2s would have been enough.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : FM (5.11c)
By: Ian When: Aug 30, 2006

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Comments: I remember clipping a number of fixed nuts and pitons on this climb a few weeks ago, but there are only the piton below the crux and another fixed nut higher up on the crux now. A green Alien will protect the traverse crux well.