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Another contemplative moment for me on Resolution Arete, a climb which turned out to have more self exploration than physical climbing for us.  Photo by Tom Gray.


Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: Jun 30, 2013
Contact Ian Wolfe


Point Rank: # 1,299
Total Points: 463
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
28 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ian Wolfe been climbing?










Contributions


All 346 | Routes 9 | Areas 3 | Photos 60 | Page Improvments | Comments 28 | Posts 154 | Stars 52 | Ratings 40
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mount Washington : Huntington Ravine : Pinnacle Gully (WI3)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: Climbed the route Sunday, 4 April 2010. The right half of the climb was a raging torrent. The left half, was soft and wet, but screws held solid and the sticks were swing and forget. I brought with me a .5 and .75 camalot and a set of nuts, and was glad to have them.

We did the route in 4 pitches, with the 2nd and 4th being primarily snow. The 3rd, though not as difficult as the 1st pitch, was my favorite. The gully narrows to a couple meters across, the pinnacle pushes rock over your head... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Hot Head (5.10c)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: The bolts right above the roof move can be easy to miss/skip. I blew right by them and ended up reaching backwards to clip the second one. This worked fine for me, but left my second with a big swing falling off the crux. If someone is TR'ing the route after you, make sure you get that clip!!!


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Main Cliff Left--Venus Wall : Selsun Blue (WI4)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Feb 2, 2009

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Comments: overuse of periods...

Ice is in good shape this year, at least as viewed from the highway on the way to skiing. It's been a cold month (Jan. 2009).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Black Dagger (5.7+ PG13) : Photo
By: Ian Wolfe When: Nov 13, 2007

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Comments: Are there any routes on this aspect of the Rainbow Wall? It looks like there is potential for something big and terrifying, or maybe several somethings...


Location: CO : Rockies Win!
By: Ian Wolfe When: Oct 22, 2007

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Comments: Mike Lane: uhh....what's that? Can you say riots in Boston? Oh DAMN! The Sox are in the World Series :-)

Unfortunately for us college students, the Boston Police have gotten way way too good at riot control, and kept the crowd from reaching critical density by blocking off Fenway Park and dividing the streets up into separate sections. Three years ago was way more fun.

Honestly, I don't know what to do now though. If I root for the Sox, I feel like I'm betraying where I'm from. If I roo... more >>


Location: CO : Rockies Win!
By: Ian Wolfe When: Oct 12, 2007

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Comments: To equate them to the Yankees they have to beat the Red Sox first....yeah.....not gonna happen.

I'm all for a Sox-Rox World series though :-)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Maria (5.6)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Oct 9, 2007

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Comments: I felt the 1st pitch traverse protected quite well. There was a large horizonal crack that I followed at about shoulder height that allowed me to place gear virtually at will. My second was shaky at 5.6, so I really made sure to protect it well, placing a piece every 6-10 feet.

We were almost tempted to just rap off when we hit the GT ledge since the bolts were right there. Don't do it! The last pitch, while only 50 feet, really caps off the experience!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Mar 9, 2007

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Comments: After the 5.8 crux traverse, there is an option to take an insecure finger crack with poor, sandy feet to the left instead of the large main crack to the right. I felt this variation was solid 5.10, and the party below me, after climbing it, thought 10c seemed to fit the bill. I'd go with at least 10b. It's pretty fun, and a nice challenge, especially if you are like me and slipped off the 5.8 slab and are looking to patch your tattered honor...

We also traversed off to the left before conti... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Slide Show and Author Prese...
By: Ian Wolfe When: Feb 23, 2007

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Comments: Jason is the bomb. Go see his show.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Popeye and the Raven (5.10c)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Feb 23, 2007

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Comments: For me, the key was stemming through the crux section. It seems improbable at first, but just go with it.


Location: Urban Climber Buys Climbing...
By: Ian Wolfe When: Jan 12, 2007

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Comments: If Climbing focuses on bouldering, that's fine with me. They will never equal the Alpinist for trad and alpine climbs. It's great to have an archivable climbing mag.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Photo
By: Ian Wolfe When: Oct 16, 2006

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Comments: Did you overexpose on purpose? The effect comes out really nice on this shot.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Oct 16, 2006

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Comments: I felt the 5.9 pitch was harder than the offwidth pitch. The offwidth looks intimidating from below, but it is really only hard for the first couple feet off the belay. I was expecting something longer and more sustained.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Sep 16, 2006

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Comments: No way! That's nuts! I'm impressed.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Birds of Prey (5.10b)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Aug 4, 2006

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Comments: yup, it is left. Sorry for the mix up. I fixed it on the description.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 28, 2006

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Comments: If you want an interesting perspective on the route, climb The Black Dagger or Bird Hunter Buttress, you can see the climbers on Crimson Chrysalis in profile. On that note, be careful what you shout from Crimson Chysalis, as us climbers on the Brownstone and Rainbow Walls can hear you perfectly!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Caliban (5.8+ R)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 28, 2006

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Comments: I was really not a big fan of this route. It wanders all over the place and the climbing, despite being only 5.8, is fairly precarious. There are only 3 bolts on the route, not 4 like Roxanna's book says. On the whole, just not enjoyable. There is a much better 5.8 on the other side of the boulder.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Sidewinder (5.11b)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 23, 2006

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Comments: Wow. Redefined my notion of "thin", "balancy", and "delicate" climbing. Very fun once you figure out the moves (which took me a while!).


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : Stanley-Burgner Route (5.9+ PG13)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 17, 2006

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Comments: The Selected Climbs in the Cascades guidebook calls this route the South Face.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10) : Photo
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 13, 2006

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Comments: That thing needs to get trundled...too bad there are always so many people in the area. I managed to pull the moves without touching it. As solid as it seems, the last thing I want is a 500 pound block wiping my belayer off the face of the earth.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Black Dagger (5.7+ PG13)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2006

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Comments: The third pitch is seriously one of the most amazing pitches I have done at Red Rock. A beautiful slick, varnished right facing corner soars above you in a very vertical fashion! I didn't think the pitch was too run out, maybe a section where I was 20-25 feet above my last piece. Slightly worrying because the rock is so slippery, but the climbing was good and I hardly noticed it.

We tried to pull the crack on the right side of the roof for pitch 2 directly. I couldn't manage it with my pack... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : Birdhunter Buttress (5.9)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2006

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Comments: I climbed the route with Jason and he is right on.

I gave the route 3 stars, but this could go to 4 if the bolts were replaced. The bolts are the original Urioste 1/4" bolts, totally rusted, and SUPER sketch. Don't fall, because any pro you can get in in the middle pitches is in kinda sandy white rock. The top pitches are stellar and actually protect very well along a right facing corner and up to a chimney.

Way to steal my thunder Jason...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : Bigfoot - aka Sole Slasher (5.10a)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 7, 2006

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Comments: Fairly run-of-the-mill face climb for Red Rocks, especially for sport routes. Not too thin or crimpy, but gets a little feeling running in the forearms. This climb I think would make a good cool-down from Left Out. Seems to wander right and left of the bolt line a little bit. If you are in the area, at least top rope it from Black Track, it take no time to set up and is worth the climb.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : Black Track (5.9)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 7, 2006

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Comments: An awesome crack climb for Red Rock! There are a few awkward spots, but overall the route felt pretty mellow because it is well protected. A great warm-up climb for Left Out!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : Left Out (5.10+)
By: Ian Wolfe When: Apr 7, 2006

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Comments: The route is definately not an R, I watched as someone placed a piece virtually every foot. You could have aided the route and felt solid about all the placements.

As for the actual climb, a great hand crack leads up to a right facing corner and continues on to a featured face. The climb is very sustained and very very pumpy! None of the moves stand out in my mind as particularly cruxy (as compared to the crux on Triassic Sands, for instance), or even very demanding technique-wise, but it i... more >>


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