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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Little Mecca (5.12a/b)
By: Ian Stewart When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on this yesterday, blew my last attempt while trying to clip the anchors. Make sure to use that rest before the 2nd last draw or you may suffer the same fate! You can hang the draws by climbing Cactus Drop (10d) beside it.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Little Mecca (5.12a/b)
By: Ian Stewart When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this yesterday, and the first bolt was very loose. The nut was just finger-tight, and the bolt itself was loose enough to be able to wiggle it sideways in the hole...not very much, but still a lot more than I would have liked. A wrench may be enough to fix it, but none of my group had one handy.
I would inspect the first bolt before you trust it, and if in doubt, just stick-clip the 2nd bolt. The 2nd clip is very easy once you've pulled over the low crux, so clipping it from the groun... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Bad Brains (5.12a)
By: Ian Stewart When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's one 12a move, which I would definitely say is 12a, and the rest is significantly easier. There may be another way of doing it, but for me, the crux involves an extremely sharp edge: once I felt it I knew I only had a couple attempts before bad things happened to my fingers. I got it, but the climb isn't that great and I don't think I'd want to deal with the sharp edges again just to get a send. Next time I'll just man-up and get on Freeform instead....
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Escalando (5.11b/c)
By: Ian Stewart When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11b/c? No f'ing way. I don't think there was a single 11 move on this climb, and there were more than enough rests to avoid any sort of pump. I'd put this at a 10d, maybe 11a if I wanted to boost a partner's ego.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Fable : East of Eden (5.9)
By: Ian Stewart When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb for the first time yesterday, and I'll definitely be back. The crux was definitely the bottom, but as others have said, you can fit a bomber #4/5 BD nut right before it (and back that up with a small cam a couple feet lower if you want). I don't own hexes, but I do remember a few spots where I thought "a hex would be perfect here". A number of bomber placements for big nuts (or hexes), and having an extra #1 or #2 C4 is nice, too. This is a great climb for somebo... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Eden area : The Fable : Garden Of Eden (5.11a)
By: Ian Stewart When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route for the first time yesterday, and I thought it was a blast. The bolted section is thin with some nice moves, and I thought the bolts were well placed. Above the bolts, the climbing is still fun, though it's a bit dirty and has some vegetation in the way. Used some nuts and smaller cams (placed my blue Mastercam and wanted another higher up but didn't have doubles). You'll need double ropes for the rappel, as even a 70m won't make it. There is a quicklink on the last bolt.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Zorro (5.11d)
By: Ian Stewart When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome climb. Like the description says, no moves are much harder than 11a/b, but they just keep coming one after another. Well placed bolts, too. I'd definitely give this one a repeat when I'm back.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Huggys Pull-up (5.8)
By: Ian Stewart When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Steven. Both my wife (5'5") and I (6'0") thought that this was harder than Cirque, which is supposedly a 10a/b. We'd have put this one around a 9+, too.
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