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Member Since: Jul 9, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 4,025
Total Points: 101
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has HoseBeats been climbing?










Contributions


All 279 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 21 | Posts 42 | Stars 119 | Ratings 88

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) : Mega Man (5.10c)
By: HoseBeats When: Jan 18, 2013

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Comments: Seems like it goes on forever.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: HoseBeats When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: Very fresh bolts. There is an extra second bolt; clip the left one. Much easier than 11a, 10b?.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 4. Afterburner Face : Big Howie (5.12a) : Photo
By: HoseBeats When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: Kind of like the texture on Dakota.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Jabberwocky (5.12b)
By: HoseBeats When: Jan 18, 2011

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Comments: The best of the 12- climbs on the Tower. Fantastic.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Cocaine Rodeo (5.12a)
By: HoseBeats When: Jul 7, 2010

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Comments: This route is as good as 12a gets.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Once Upon a Time (5.11c)
By: HoseBeats When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: Harder than Golden Stairs but easier than Hippogriff. The chalk washes off this route quickly after any rain, so an onsight attempt can feel a bit wilder than some of the other routes on the tower.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: HoseBeats When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: This has to be one of the best photos of the Tower I've ever seen.


Location: International : New Zealand : South Island : Paynes Ford : Track 5
By: HoseBeats When: May 7, 2009

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Comments: It's also easiest to take Track 5 to access the Wall of Thugs (1080 and the Letter G, ect..) Head right, past the Little Lost Wall and up the gully, to the big platform that you start all of the roof climbs.


Location: International : New Zealand : South Island : Paynes Ford : Track 4 : Send a Gorilla (5.11b/c PG13)
By: HoseBeats When: May 7, 2009

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Comments: 5 bolts if I remember correctly. There is a no-hander down low, but it doesn't do much. The pump comes up high when the jugs run out and you have to do the final moves on crimps. Lots of air time for me!


Location: International : New Zealand : South Island : Paynes Ford
By: HoseBeats When: May 7, 2009

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Comments: If your accustomed to using the YDS take the conversions to the Australian system with a grain of salt. The Kiwis are pretty good sandbaggers and the numbers don't always translate well. Watch out around the 19-24 grades, they can be stiff compared to the American equivalent.

Also, the climbing at Paynes can be quite pumpy and hard to get the onsight. Typically you search through a sea of crap looking for the best hold. It takes a week or maybe longer to really settle into the area, but on... more >>


Location: International : New Zealand : South Island : Castle Hill : Quantum Field : Think Tank (V4)
By: HoseBeats When: May 7, 2009

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Comments: One of the finest boulder problems I've ever done. I'm not sure a problem like this can be graded, v4 is a shot in the dark IMO. However hard it feels to you its still damn fantastic.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Resurrection (5.10c)
By: HoseBeats When: Apr 28, 2009

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Comments: I actually enjoyed this route. There was only a few loose looking things near the very top. Less than vertical, with hard to see holds, and technical movement. A good route in my book.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: HoseBeats When: Apr 16, 2009

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Comments: Would Tensleep warrant a month long stay? How hard would it be to find partners? I'd like to avoid the crowds of Lander or Rifle, yet still climb quality routes. So is Tensleep worth it?


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Chupacabra (5.12b/c)
By: HoseBeats When: Apr 16, 2009

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Comments: A long move off of a crimp with marginal feet, at the second bolt was the crux for me. The tick marks I ended up following wove right then back left, to avoid the rather blank sections.
Beware a giant, creaky halfmoon shaped jug/sidepull that could go at any moment.
A no hands rest allows you to get all the juice back for the top.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs : Hijacked (5.12b)
By: HoseBeats When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: It sure felt hard to me. Very bouldery. The guidebook calls it a "Must Do." I disagree, I wouldn't have tried it again if I had fallen on my redpoint. Blah.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Fossil Wall : 3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.... (5.12a)
By: HoseBeats When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: It could be 11d. The crux is short and once you make it to the bucket left of the traverse you can get all your juice back. The top isn't a gimme but the difficulty eases off for the last few bolts.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Fossil Wall : The Relic (5.9)
By: HoseBeats When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: The mantel over the roof is pretty tricky for 5.9 It's around a V1ish move.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Banana Peel (5.11c)
By: HoseBeats When: Jan 3, 2009

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Comments: I thought it was as hard as Bananas on Acid. Balancy and tenuous at the crux.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Alcohol Wall South : Power Play (5.12b)
By: HoseBeats When: Jan 3, 2009

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Comments: Really fun and unique like DTP states. Good footwork will get you through the traverse without wasting too much energy. Find a creative rest at the last bolt of the traverse before heading up the stopper move (v4ish?) to the jugs above.
If Bananas on Acid is 12a then this is at least one grade harder.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs : Firedance (5.12-)
By: HoseBeats When: Oct 13, 2008

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Comments: Tweaky down low on smaller than they look pockets leading to fun and an interesting crux up high. There is a large X chalked next to a bolt 2/3 of the way up. Unfortunately this is the bolt you will most likely fall on. My climbing partner and I checked it out and both fell on it with no problems. Fun route!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : 1/2 Route, AKA Unknown (5.10+) : Photo
By: HoseBeats When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: The best butt shot ever!