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Me seconding the Hobbit Roof after Jarod Sickler's lead.


Member Since: Jun 29, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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Contributions


All 287 | Routes | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvments | Comments 24 | Posts 7 | Stars 138 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Jack Fisher works up the rope stretching crux pitch. Photo by Ryan Day Thompson Photography.

Jack Fisher works up the rope stretching crux pitch. Photo by Ryan Day Thompson Photography.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Coffee Achievers (5.10+)

Dec 16, 2011

Crystal Meth. Taking advantage of a good rest in the cave on the left. Photo by Jason Fruh.

Crystal Meth. Taking advantage of a good rest in the cave on the left. Photo by Jason Fruh.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Crystal Meth (WI4-5)

Dec 16, 2011

Nearing the top of Crystal Meth (better view of the flow). Photo by Jason Fruh.

Nearing the top of Crystal Meth (better view of the flow). Photo by Jason Fruh.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Crystal Meth (WI4-5)

Dec 16, 2011

Nearing the top of Crystal Meth. Photo by Jason Fruh.

Nearing the top of Crystal Meth. Photo by Jason Fruh.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Crystal Meth (WI4-5)

Dec 16, 2011

Me seconding the Hobbit Roof after Jarod Sickler's lead.

Me seconding the Hobbit Roof after Jarod Sickler's lead.

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hobbit Roof (5.10d)

Aug 24, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: Hoag When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route! Far more laybacking than I expected, which resulted in some serious pump and a lot of wind-sucking.

We brought a BD #5 and found it very helpful in protecting the 11- roof at the end of pitch two as well as the top of pitch 3 where the crack widens to offwidth. It's helpful on pitch 4 as well, but the climbing is easy enough on 4 that running it out isn't all that bad.

We did the route in 4 pitches by combining pitches 4 and 5. This provided for good rests between pitc... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Strawberry Jam (5.8)
By: Hoag When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: This felt a bit more difficult than 5.8, but what did I expect. It's the Voo!

I only used one #1 at the beginning, two #2s as the crack widened, 2 #3s at the crux, and a #4 above the crux. One could avoid the #4, but you would have to burry smaller cams pretty deep and risk them waling back into oblivion.

Rack smaller gear to your right and bigger gear to your left. There is a bit of a corner that is on your left as your start and switches to your right as you go... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Grunt Lieback (5.9)
By: Hoag When: Sep 9, 2012

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Comments: I think I grunted more on Strawberry Jam.

This route seemed to have two cruxes: 1. pulling around a corner about a quarter of the way up; 2. the steep liebacking with wide open hands near the top.

A fun route all around!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Northwest Corner (5.8)
By: Hoag When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: This is a really fun route with lots of variety. The face sections are a bit run out, but the features are solid, so there's very little risk of taking a big whipper.

We climbed this in one pitch with a 70 meter rope. I ran out of alpine draws along the way, so the rope drag got pretty bad. If you link both pitches, make sure you have a bunch of extendable draws with you.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Crystal Meth (WI4-5)
By: Hoag When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: According to a CMS guide we ran into today, this route is in for the first time in a couple years. It's rather beat out on the left side and the right is steep and brittle. It's a fun line, so get while the getting it good!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Hoag When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: This is probably the best single pitch route I've ever been on. The crack is sustained perfect hands (for me) and eats gear. Make sure you have a ton of BD #2 cams with you. I think I racked with 7 #2s, 2 #3s, and 1 #1. The #1 can be placed in the thinner part of the crack at the very beginning. It's #2s the rest of the way with exception of one #3 placement at the beginning of the overhang section.

A must-climb. A must-lead.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Hoag When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: An amazing experience!

This route was more difficult than I thought it would be due to the OW and the calcite. Being able to smear in an OW crack is important and the calcite covered sandstone made this a little difficult. However, on the crux pitch I found that there were enough face features on calcite covered walls to edge and make my way through.

The experience at the top is second to none. Alpine style climbing with a view like that of the dessert is something special. Whichever route yo... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Hoag When: Sep 4, 2011

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Comments: This is one of the best cracks I've climbed in the state. The sustained nature is like that of the desert splitters but on Lump Ridge style granite.

I can see why some felt it was a bit stiffer than 9+, but I don't remember making any moves that were in the 5.10 arena. It just feels harder because it's so sustained (especially the second pitch).

CAMPING: There is excellent FREE camping on FR 550 if you continue to head south on CO 126 past the turn off onto 96 towards the Cathedral Spires. F... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks
By: Hoag When: Sep 1, 2011

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Comments: What's the camping situation near Turkey Rocks?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Good Evans (5.10d)
By: Hoag When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this with JFisher today. What an incredible line. One of my favorites of all time.

We linked the last two pitches to save some time. There was a fair amount of rope drag, but it was fun and unique to piece it all together.

This route is a Colorado alpine classic for sure.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Middle Parallel Space (5.9)
By: Hoag When: Aug 2, 2011

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Comments: I linked both pitches for some fun climbing and killer rope drag. Bring some slings if you're planning on linking.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: Hoag When: Jul 28, 2011

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Comments: What a great line.

Jarod Sickler and I climbed this on Monday, July 25th 2011 and were the only one's on the wall. It was a bluebird day with zero precipitation and warm temperatures. It was spectacular.

Some thoughts:

-There is still a LOT of snow on the approach to the North Chimney and still some snow in the chimney itself. The snow in the chimney itself can be avoided by climbing on the rock ramp to the left of the snow. We roped up for a short steep section of the chimney just before Bro... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11)
By: Hoag When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: A great line to practice footwork on thin holds.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Gondolier Arete (5.10-)
By: Hoag When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: This route is 5.8 until the last move to the anchor ledge. There's a good right hand crimper and a little knob for a right foot. It's balancy but fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Route Canal (5.9-)
By: Hoag When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun route. It would be a 5.9 if there weren't so many face hold options on the line. I used a BD 1, BD 0.75, A finger-sized Metolius, another BD 0.75, and a quick draw for the bolt. It's a fun route and a good place to practice hand jams. The lower part of the crack is also a good place to teach someone how to build and anchor. Bring some BD 2s if you plan on doing that.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Craig's Crack (5.8)
By: Hoag When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: If this route was 2 to 3 times as long there would be a line to climb it. The rock is excellent and the crack is perfect hands. The anchor is a bit tricky to build but some long webbing and a few stoppers or hexes does the trick.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : La Cosita, Left (5.7)
By: Hoag When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: This one is alright but I'm a bit upset that we didn't climb La Cosita, Right instead. We only had time for one more route and the sustained finger crack that is La Cosita, Right looks like a ton of fun. Left is fun if you're in the mood for stemming and a few fun lie-back moves.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Moby Dick (5.10a)
By: Hoag When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: This is super fun line but make sure you bring the right pro! I estimated hand sizes from the bottom. In reality, you should rack up to big fist (BD #4). There are a couple of pitons in a pin scar to the right of the widening crack on the second half of the route. I'm sure someone found the oval beaner I left on one of the pitons when I realized my #2's weren't going to cut it.

Enjoy!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Playin' Hooky (5.8)
By: Hoag When: Jun 11, 2011

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Comments: Glad I finally made it over to Creek Side to climb this. It's a fun route. Mostly 5.6 with some 5.8/5.9- moves. The best pitch is definitely the last one because of the exposure. You've got a beautiful bird's-eye view of the creek and all the kayaks and rafts floating by.

If you're feeling adventurous and want to give Solid Gold a shot, you can get to the rap line from the top of Playin' Hooky and get any gear you have to leave.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Diedre (5.8)
By: Hoag When: Jun 8, 2011

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Comments: An excellent route if you're looking to be introduced to The Chief.

My wife and I had only one day in Squamish and chose Diedre. It was a good choice to say the least.

Definitely link pitches 2 and 3 to save time. The crack is likely wet most of the time but, if you can keep your shoes dry, it's still very climbable and enjoyable.

The last pitch is super runout until the final few moves. Find a piton in a seem to your right, protect below it with a BD #2 and make a bouldery move over... more >>


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