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Member Since: Apr 14, 2008
Last Visit: 30 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 2,645
Total Points: 225
Last Year: 36
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Highlander been climbing?










Contributions


All 363 | Routes 15 | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts 254 | Stars 48 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Camping under the influence

Camping under the influence

Southern Utah Deserts : Share your photos/stories o... : Post

Mar 1, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Way Rambo (5.12-)
By: Highlander When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: Another reason to not top rope this once great climb that has been loved to death.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Subterfuge (WI6 M7+)
By: Highlander When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I edited my comment, since others above have stated the ethics and history of the area in question. I have no dog in this hunt and personally don't care, just wondering is sport climbing tactics appropriate for this side of the canyon. Is it ok to rap bolt routes on the "Dark Side"? or is it only ok for certain people to rap bolt routes?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Skylight (WI4+ M4-5)
By: Highlander When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: New anchors on the route. Skip the first set of bolted anchors on the left, and continue up snow to new bolted anchors on the right before entering the chimney. 2nd pitch also has new anchors on the left across from where the old piton anchor used to be which is currently buried in ice. You can now rap the route with a single 70m rope, watch your ends on the first rap, walk down the ramp to the new anchor bolts for the first pitch, and from there, you will easily hit the ground. 2nd pitch is cur... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Horsetail Falls (WI4-5)
By: Highlander When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: 10'-15' of steep ice is not WI 5, the left side of the first pitch is WI 4 at most. WI 5 is usually at least 30'-60' of sustained steep ice by definition.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : The Monk (5.10)
By: Highlander When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: 3.5 camalots are money on the start of this one, new bd #4 fits in places but is tight.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Cockometer (5.10)
By: Highlander When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: climbed this recently, webbing is not in good shape and should be replaced, one end of the webbing was just hanging on by a thread. Unfortunately did not have anything to replace it. Its a staggered 2 bolt anchor. One long piece of chain on the upper bolt and a couple quick links on the lower bolt would do the job.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Highlander When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Capt. Insano, you can camp up Camp Bird Road, but you will need 4WD and good tires as the road can be icy or packed snow. People camp up there in Winter, but it is going to be dark and cold. Why not spend $45 and get a warm place to stay and support the local economy if you are going to use the resources?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Niagaravation (M4-5)
By: Highlander When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: Congrats on the FA, Stephen!

Thanks for posting.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : I've Seen Worse (5.11)
By: Highlander When: Nov 7, 2014

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Comments: This area has received recent rockfall which has created this route. May still be an active rock fall zone, just fyi.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)
By: Highlander When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: The piton on the pitch 3 peg traverse is getting pretty loose, might not hold too many more falls. Might be time to consider updating the piton or replacing it with a bolt.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Ninja (5.11+)
By: Highlander When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Sam F. upgraded the anchor on 10/24.

Thanks Sam!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Inigo Montoya (5.10+ PG13)
By: Highlander When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Funny you did this one. We bouldered on the crack part last spring during a thunderstorm, and joked about putting this thing up.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall : The Deep End : Svengali (5.11d)
By: Highlander When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: 16 bolts, plus anchors. 1st bolt inside the slot is loose and needs to be tighten or replaced.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall : The Alcove : Tropical Depression (5.11+)
By: Highlander When: Oct 5, 2013

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Comments: I would not chain my dog up with those skinny chains, lol. First bolt not in the best position, could load the biner over the edge if someone fell on it.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Overlook Cliff
By: Highlander When: Aug 24, 2013

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Comments: Please do not take the biners that are left on the anchors, these are not booty. They are left there to facilitate quick lowering. Noticed today some biners were taken. If you are going to take biners, replace them.

Thanks


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Overlook Cliff : El Burro (5.11-)
By: Highlander When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: AKA El Burro.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Fezzik (5.11+ PG13)
By: Highlander When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: Glad you liked it, could not remember if we had a 60m or 70m rope that day, I think we put it up 3 years ago. I will change the route description to needing a 70m rope.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Princess Buttercup (5.10-)
By: Highlander When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: I think this route is gone due to the rockfall in the Fall of 2012.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Optimator (5.13-)
By: Highlander When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: 70m works


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Cloak & Dagger (5.10+)
By: Highlander When: May 27, 2012

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Comments: Really good route. The first 2 pitches' rock quality is not great, but the 3rd pitch makes up for it with 180' of sustained fun climbing. The route does have some dirtiness to it but should clean up nicely. Great alternative to Comic Relief or Escape Artist.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad ClimbingHighlander6 days ago
re: Belaying Second in Guide mode - right or left?Trad ClimbingHighlander6 days ago
re: Steck Salathe questionNorthern CaliforniaHighlanderAug 20, 2015
re: Proposed Camping Fees at Creek Pasture and SuperbowlSouthern Utah DesertsHighlanderAug 20, 2015
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