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Climbing in Zen Garden in Maple Canyon


Member Since: Apr 19, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 3, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,864
Total Points: 175
Last Year: 69
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 421 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 90 | Posts 4 | Stars 203 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7) : Photo
By: Hendo When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: I vividly remembered this picture when I lead this pitch yesterday. I'm not sure if he's just looking left, or about to go left, but either way, you need to go up another 10ft before you exit left! Don't exit here! It's a blank, non-protectable slab.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Hendo When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Great route. Horrible descent. Oh wow. The descent was half the adventure!

But yeah, the 4th pitch was amazing (especially in 20mph gusts!). And the 3rd pitch was great OW practice (yes, I got stuck in there). On the OW section, I'd say a PG13 with just a #5, my partner ran it out 30ft with a #5. With no #5, holy crap, I have no idea. I bet with a #5 and #6 it'd be pretty safe! So it's up to you what to bring.

Great route though! I'd say more heady then B... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Right Side : Pervade (5.11a)
By: Hendo When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: There are now 2 or 3 loose blocks on this route.... Possibly new after the September 2013 rain? Either way, still a great route! There's a giant loose block that makes it pretty exciting (for the belayer).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Twin Cracks (5.9)
By: Hendo When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Got some good fist over fist jamming practice at the top. So I thought it was worth trying! Fun little climb to warm-up on or finish the day with.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Wild Works of Fire (5.11 R)
By: Hendo When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: This route is great after doing 3AM. 3AM is a burl-fest, and pretty much the same moves the whole way (FYI, I loved 3AM). But this route is all creativity. Pods, flaring handcrack type overhang-y parts. A great and creative route! A nice contrast to 3AM.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Hendo When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: This climb ended up being a bit easier than I thought! There's lots of rests. One on the pedestal, one right above that. Another rest before the roof. Than like 7 rest spots 4ft above the roof move. Still classic though! 3AM was way more burly in my opinion. I've never gasped so hard for air in my life finishing that route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Bombardier Dome : Seven Time Loser (5.7)
By: Hendo When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. The guidebook says go right at the wide crack. Problem is, there is no protection right. So I went up the wide crack instead. Which is indeed a little more stiff than 5.7. The hand-jams are dirty, and yes the pro at the wide crack is tricky (with all the dirt). The small crack above the wide crack is also another tough spot. It kind of fades away. Had to face climb to the right of that to get past that part.

I still thought it was a fun route though! I like the untouched dirty ... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Northeast : Roadkill (5.10b)
By: Hendo When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Oh wow. This route is superb. I've never finger locked, finger jammed, and ring locked so much on one route. Then after that, you get a fun juggy section. Then after that, you get a scary slab section. Do this climb.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : White Lightning : White Lightning (5.10-)
By: Hendo When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Pure hand-jams all the way up to the traverse. Although they were pretty tipped out hands (my knuckles were feeling it). Go deep in the crack and you'll find them.

I placed a #3 halfway in the left traverse roof. It held my two 10ft falls! The way I did the traverse was I hand jammed the first 1/3, then transitioned to a lie-back when the edge got more positive. That's the great thing about this route, is the edge that you're lie-backing on only gets better the further you get! Amaz... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Bloody Fingers (5.10a)
By: Hendo When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Jam the first 20ft. It's much easier that way. The rock is getting pretty smooth right there b/c of all the traffic. Thus, lie-backing it getting tough.

There's a secret C4 cam placement up high. Good luck finding it!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Lost Pioneers (5.10a PG13)
By: Hendo When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: This was actually my first 5.10 Trad lead. I thought the protection was no problem. I wouldn't rate this a PG13 at all.

This climb was actually more enjoyable than Bloody Fingers for me. Less anxiety and pump. Maybe because there were two distinct rests that I could take while climbing? Where Bloody Fingers was very sustained...

I thought it was actually a great first 5.10 lead! I lead a couple other 5.10's that day (White Lightning, Bloody Fingers, Dupree's Diamond Blues), and this was t... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Scream Machine (5.10a R)
By: Hendo When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: You can also place a #3 in the horizontal crack before the first bolt. If it weren't for the sketchy and awkward start to this climb. It'd be 3 stars for sure. The moves up the 5.10 section (the second half) are superb though!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - Southwest : Immortal Porpoises (5.8)
By: Hendo When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: This climb is pretty fun. Unfortunately the approach and the descent decrease it by a star. You basically climb up half the rock before you start the route. There are also no bolts at the top, thus you must down-climb the rebar route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : 5.8 Wall : Standard Crack (5.7)
By: Hendo When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: This is a pretty thin crack. Especially down low. The pro isn't exactly straight forward. If you're bored with 5.6's give it a go! There's some nice jugs halfway up, so it does get easier.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Upper 5.8 Wall : Another Friend (5.7)
By: Hendo When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Very lichen covered. But that just means no one climbs it! I enjoyed it. Definitely get your adventure climbing face on before you climb this.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : 90 Foot Wall : Fallout (5.9)
By: Hendo When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: Best route on the wall for an avid crack climber. Fun to lead! Great jams though. I pulled my first handstack for the move at the start (the wide crack). Fun to try!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : 90 Foot Wall : Vintage 85 (5.9)
By: Hendo When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: Protection beta SPOILER for the crux:

A Red C3 and/or a Yellow BD nut protect you VERY well at the crux. I placed both, but the nut was super bomber.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : 90 Foot Wall : Strontium 90 (5.8)
By: Hendo When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: If you love handjams and love crack climbing, this climb is actually easier than the 5.7 to the left (Rentier).


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : 90 Foot Wall : Rentier (5.7)
By: Hendo When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: I thought the crux was at the bottom. First 15ft or so...


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: Hendo When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Some of the most unique climbing I've ever done. A must do for sure. I was pretty exhausted from the 9 pitches I'd done in the last 24 hours (with minimal sleep), so the burly moves were more of a chore than fun at that point. But I can see how this is a classic! I almost lost my precious #3 C4 on this route as well. So yeah, I need to try it again - fresh and without pesky stuck cams!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Crack (5.8)
By: Hendo When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Great climb. Solid 5.8. Easier than Haystack. More consistent at the grade as well.

Better than Bear's Reach for me. Probably because I'm a crack addict, and I did Bear's Reach exhausted (it has burly moves!)


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Haystack (5.8)
By: Hendo When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: I honestly liked East crack more. That's all I remember.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Corrugation Corner (5.7)
By: Hendo When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: I was determined to not do the beached whale move...I failed miserably. It must be done.

The traverse out of the chimney (start of 3rd pitch) was the most terrifying to me. Maybe it's b/c by the time you're traversing you're nearly 500-600ft up.

Next time, I'll link it up with Surrealistic Pillar though! Great introduction and 1st climb at the Leap though! I was definitely spoiled.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: Hendo When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Good climb. If you're in charge of the trip or get dibs on which pitch to lead. Lead the 2nd and then link the 3rd. Might have to be sparse with gear or extend your gear, but I basically climbed 250ft of 3 star climbing continuously! Pretty sweet.

I actually liked East dihedral just as much...until I got to the last pitch. That last pitch of Steort's is pretty great. The holds are all there (even if you stay along the arete). We're talking like flake-like jug type holds (small, but there... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : East Dihedrals (5.6)
By: Hendo When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Great little route that we did (unplanned b/c Steort's was so busy) in the summer. Got a bit of shade behind that dihedral! So I guess it was meant to be. Definitely link pitch 2 and 3 together. I thought the climbing was fun and unique. Definitely worth doing! Almost got hit by a basketball sized boulder from the party above...made me remember I'm not invincible and can't control all the risks...


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