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Climbing in Zen Garden in Maple Canyon


Member Since: Apr 19, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 3, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,873
Total Points: 175
Last Year: 69
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 421 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 90 | Posts 4 | Stars 203 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Stagefright

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

ID : City of Rocks : Nausea Wall

Aug 6, 2013

Vintage 85

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (4)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'

CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : 90 Foot Wall

Jul 16, 2013

S.T.D.

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (2)

Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'

UT : Saint George : ... : Shady Side

Oct 10, 2012

New Age Disciples

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (3)

Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35'

UT : Saint George : ... : Shady Side

Oct 10, 2012

The Stem From Heck

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (5)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'

UT : Saint George : ... : Shady Side

Oct 10, 2012

Gargoyle Gardens

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

ID : Castle Rocks : ... : The Crack House

Oct 10, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Fingers up to second nuckle at the bottom.  Just finger tips for the rest of the crack.  There's lot of hidden face stuff though!

Fingers up to second nuckle at the bottom. Just finger tips for the rest of the crack. There's lot of hidden face stuff though!

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Dupree's Diamond Blues (5.10a)

Aug 7, 2013

We scrambled up some 5th class stuff to a cordelette/webbing around a horn.  This is where we started our climb(allowed for an easy link up of pitches 1 & 2).  Pitch 2 (for us) started underneath the obvious twin cracks.  Our pitch 3 started from underneath a small roof.  You must traverse left into the chimney from here.  There's a piton in chimney right where the roof is.  We then scrambled to the top.  Dotted lines are behind rock in the picture.

We scrambled up some 5th class stuff to a cordelette/webbing around a horn. This is where we started our climb(allowed for an easy link up of pitches 1 & 2). Pitch 2 (for us) started underneath the

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Open Book (5.7)

Jul 9, 2013

Climbing in Zen Garden in Maple Canyon

Climbing in Zen Garden in Maple Canyon

Hendo : Personal Photo

Nov 1, 2012

Climbing El Cracko Diablo

Climbing El Cracko Diablo

Hendo : Personal Photo

Oct 26, 2012

Notice the nice vertical features that make for excellent hands/feet/protection.  (sorry for being washed out)

Notice the nice vertical features that make for excellent hands/feet/protection. (sorry for being washed out)

ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Gargoyle Gardens (5.7)

Oct 10, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7) : Photo
By: Hendo When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: I vividly remembered this picture when I lead this pitch yesterday. I'm not sure if he's just looking left, or about to go left, but either way, you need to go up another 10ft before you exit left! Don't exit here! It's a blank, non-protectable slab.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Hendo When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Great route. Horrible descent. Oh wow. The descent was half the adventure!

But yeah, the 4th pitch was amazing (especially in 20mph gusts!). And the 3rd pitch was great OW practice (yes, I got stuck in there). On the OW section, I'd say a PG13 with just a #5, my partner ran it out 30ft with a #5. With no #5, holy crap, I have no idea. I bet with a #5 and #6 it'd be pretty safe! So it's up to you what to bring.

Great route though! I'd say more heady then B... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Right Side : Pervade (5.11a)
By: Hendo When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: There are now 2 or 3 loose blocks on this route.... Possibly new after the September 2013 rain? Either way, still a great route! There's a giant loose block that makes it pretty exciting (for the belayer).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Twin Cracks (5.9)
By: Hendo When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Got some good fist over fist jamming practice at the top. So I thought it was worth trying! Fun little climb to warm-up on or finish the day with.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Wild Works of Fire (5.11 R)
By: Hendo When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: This route is great after doing 3AM. 3AM is a burl-fest, and pretty much the same moves the whole way (FYI, I loved 3AM). But this route is all creativity. Pods, flaring handcrack type overhang-y parts. A great and creative route! A nice contrast to 3AM.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Hendo When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: This climb ended up being a bit easier than I thought! There's lots of rests. One on the pedestal, one right above that. Another rest before the roof. Than like 7 rest spots 4ft above the roof move. Still classic though! 3AM was way more burly in my opinion. I've never gasped so hard for air in my life finishing that route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Bombardier Dome : Seven Time Loser (5.7)
By: Hendo When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. The guidebook says go right at the wide crack. Problem is, there is no protection right. So I went up the wide crack instead. Which is indeed a little more stiff than 5.7. The hand-jams are dirty, and yes the pro at the wide crack is tricky (with all the dirt). The small crack above the wide crack is also another tough spot. It kind of fades away. Had to face climb to the right of that to get past that part.

I still thought it was a fun route though! I like the untouched dirty ... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Northeast : Roadkill (5.10b)
By: Hendo When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Oh wow. This route is superb. I've never finger locked, finger jammed, and ring locked so much on one route. Then after that, you get a fun juggy section. Then after that, you get a scary slab section. Do this climb.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : White Lightning : White Lightning (5.10-)
By: Hendo When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Pure hand-jams all the way up to the traverse. Although they were pretty tipped out hands (my knuckles were feeling it). Go deep in the crack and you'll find them.

I placed a #3 halfway in the left traverse roof. It held my two 10ft falls! The way I did the traverse was I hand jammed the first 1/3, then transitioned to a lie-back when the edge got more positive. That's the great thing about this route, is the edge that you're lie-backing on only gets better the further you get! Amaz... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Bloody Fingers (5.10a)
By: Hendo When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Jam the first 20ft. It's much easier that way. The rock is getting pretty smooth right there b/c of all the traffic. Thus, lie-backing it getting tough.

There's a secret C4 cam placement up high. Good luck finding it!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Lost Pioneers (5.10a PG13)
By: Hendo When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: This was actually my first 5.10 Trad lead. I thought the protection was no problem. I wouldn't rate this a PG13 at all.

This climb was actually more enjoyable than Bloody Fingers for me. Less anxiety and pump. Maybe because there were two distinct rests that I could take while climbing? Where Bloody Fingers was very sustained...

I thought it was actually a great first 5.10 lead! I lead a couple other 5.10's that day (White Lightning, Bloody Fingers, Dupree's Diamond Blues), and this was t... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Scream Machine (5.10a R)
By: Hendo When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: You can also place a #3 in the horizontal crack before the first bolt. If it weren't for the sketchy and awkward start to this climb. It'd be 3 stars for sure. The moves up the 5.10 section (the second half) are superb though!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - Southwest : Immortal Porpoises (5.8)
By: Hendo When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: This climb is pretty fun. Unfortunately the approach and the descent decrease it by a star. You basically climb up half the rock before you start the route. There are also no bolts at the top, thus you must down-climb the rebar route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : 5.8 Wall : Standard Crack (5.7)
By: Hendo When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: This is a pretty thin crack. Especially down low. The pro isn't exactly straight forward. If you're bored with 5.6's give it a go! There's some nice jugs halfway up, so it does get easier.


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