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girl40


Member Since: Jan 31, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 25, 2014
Contact Healyje


Point Rank: # 6,143
Total Points: 52
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Healyje been climbing?










Contributions


All 367 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvments | Comments 17 | Posts 343 | Stars 1 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside : Main Cliff : Wushu Roof (5.10d)
By: Healyje When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: Ideally you want side-by-side Metolius #9 and #10 cams (or med. and large Super Cams) straight upwards into the dark slot at the roof crux. Both need the outside cam lobes to the left with the #9 to the inside and the #10 outboard next to it. The comparable BD cams would actually be the old 3.5/4.5 pairing, in the new ones I'm guessing two #4s. You have to pay attention to those placements, make sure they're all the way to the top of the slot.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside : Main Cliff : Tunnel Vision (5.11b)
By: Healyje When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: I consider the crux throw to be the single most strenuous move out there.


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Healyje When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: It is again a good bit of climbing and the same issues were raised on the East Face of the Monkey with Watts pre-placement of gear vs. Trotter doing a real FFA. FFA does stand for 'First Free Ascent', but was never meant outside of the context of placing gear on lead and that's my only question in this instance. And so long as this isn't some kind of prelude to retro-bolting the route or the South Face columns in general I certainly have no problem with it at all.


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Healyje When: Aug 29, 2013

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Comments: Matt, good climbing, but I'm not at all clear how pre-placed gear in any way makes for a remotely valid FFA claim, at least not if, as Opdycke says, we're still "keeping it real" out at Beacon.


Location: OR : Beacon Rock
By: Healyje When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: "Kenny Allen------------------------------------
Active maintenance of the slings and anchors at beacon rock occur as it is needed...
-----------------------------------------------
"

Yes, so far by me and since 2005 I've replaced the 68 most used two-bolt anchors and maintained them since all at my own time and expense.


"Kenny Allen------------------------------------
I feel it should be noted that joe healy is NOT an official spokesperson for climbing at beacon rock... i do not... more >>


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Link-up: Free for All/Dod'... (5.10b)
By: Healyje When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Well, James, maybe you've just been too damn busy on the pitch to actually bother looking at it, but at 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up p2 there are two absolutely BOMB large stopper slots. Nothing about either placement is remotely loose, a result of "someone falling on a stopper", in any way fragile, or fiddly - both are simple drop-in bomb slots available from good stem stances and I'd happily dive on either one all day long.


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Stone Rodeo (5.12b)
By: Healyje When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Excuse me? And who are you? The climb as not been retrobolted - it was rebolted (and you're welcome).


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Link-up: Free for All/Dod'... (5.10b)
By: Healyje When: Nov 30, 2011

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Comments: I suppose you could funk around with wide pro, but it really isn't necessary.

I lead the p2 offwidth all the time with just two large stoppers, each placed in an utterly bomb slot - one at 1/3 and the other at 2/3s of the way up the offwidth. Both can be placed from solid, stemmed stances.

Both placements are classic and couldn't be more solid; they are however back a ways in the crack (but obvious if you are looking) so each needs an extended trad draw. I use an HB Alloy o... more >>


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Old Warriors Never Die (5.12b PG13)
By: Healyje When: Sep 18, 2011

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Comments: At this point the biggest danger is from the top 20' of the left side Wrong Gull pillar coming down on it.


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Old Warriors Never Die (5.12b PG13)
By: Healyje When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: Yeah, some of the lines are PG-13 and R - doesn't mean they need retro-bolts, though.


Location: OR : Beacon Rock
By: Healyje When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: "It looks like the webbing used to be black, now it's kinda grey and definitely past its prime. Last changed in 08? Yikes!"

All the anchors are actively maintained. Last changed in '08? Yes, and the main SE rap line anchors will be getting replaced shortly. HOWEVER, all those anchors with slings are made of two independent 1" milspec sliding-X slings with two Fixe 50kn SS rap rings and, while I understand younger climbers don't have any real experience with sling longevity these days, ... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside
By: Healyje When: Jun 13, 2011

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Comments: PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO APPROACH THE TOP OF ROUTES FROM THE ROAD / UPPER TRAIL - YES, THERE ARE SOME SLINGS ON TREES VISIBLE FROM THE TRAIL UP BY THE ROAD, BUT BY AND LARGE THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPMENT AND NOT TOP ROPES. IN GENERAL THERE ARE NO CLIFFTOP-ACCESSIBLE TOP ROPES AT DZ/FS AND THE ENTIRE AREA AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF IS EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TO APPROACH FROM ABOVE IF YOU AREN'T A VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBER AND EVEN THEN YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE ABOUT IT AND WHY YOU ARE ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Deadwood Crags : Deadwood Wall : That's a Rap (5.8)
By: Healyje When: Jan 26, 2011

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Comments: The consensus might be otherwise:

Rap Bolting at Woodfords, CA


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside
By: Healyje When: Sep 4, 2010

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Comments: Under no circumstances should anyone park on the north side of Route 14 in the wide shoulder - this is a very active and officially marked semi slow lane for allowing cars to pass them. Parking there will probably get you towed and more than likely cause access problems. Thanks.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside : Main Cliff : Lion of Judah (5.10a PG13)
By: Healyje When: Sep 3, 2010

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Comments: Sugar and Spice is the name everyone uses for this line - it finishes up and right to the anchor it now shares with 'Day of Atonement' and there is an intermediate pin on the way to it. Here Bryan and I part company - the top out to the anchor is not a big deal at all in my opinion and don't feel there is any need for a PG-13 rating.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside : Main Cliff : Oracle (5.10c PG13)
By: Healyje When: Sep 3, 2010

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Comments: This is as serious as a trad lead gets - do not in any way underestimate this route. I personally don't use the 6" cam as it gets in my way, but even with it you don't wan't to take this route lightly (I consider it 'R', Arent believes it to be 'PG-13' with the big cam). The description should read:

"The best line at the crag and is the obvious and bold gem up the broken corner arête and up through the ‘butterfly’ roof to thin moves above which gain you the stellar right-facing dih... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Supremacy Crack (5.11b)
By: Healyje When: Jan 31, 2006

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Comments: Being Okies from SoIll with no jamming skills back in the mid-70s we used to layback it.