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girl40


Member Since: Jan 31, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Healyje


Point Rank: # 4,698
Total Points: 93
Last Year: 46
Last 30 Days: 1
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Healyje been climbing?










Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Contributions


All 517 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 484 | Stars 2 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Full Moon Foot Dance

V1 5 X (1)

Boulder, 1 pitch

IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Feb 6, 2015

Lost Warriors (FA)

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R (6)

Trad, 6 pitches, 650'

WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock

Jan 23, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Alternate placements

Alternate placements

Arizona & New Mexico : Textbook cam placements can... : Post

Feb 12, 2015

Revised from memory, but hard to forget these even...

Revised from memory, but hard to forget these even after 38 years

IL : Giant City State Park : ... : Double Barrel (5.11+ R)

Feb 7, 2015

a) Hump? It's 'Camel's Back', not 'Camel's Hump' -...

a) Hump? It's 'Camel's Back', not 'Camel's Hump' - weird that would somehow change. b) 'The Gully's finish is what you have marked as the 'Devil's Backbone' finish, the marked finish was a slightly s

IL : Giant City State Park : ... : Makanda Layback (5.8 R)

Feb 7, 2015

Revised

Revised

IL : Giant City State Park : ... : Georges Nose (5.10+ R)

Feb 7, 2015

Classics Giant City Routes revised. Best recollect...

Classics Giant City Routes revised. Best recollection forty years later. Need to get back there and get on all those again.

IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Feb 6, 2015

Big wall aid soloing system

Big wall aid soloing system

Ice Climbing : Rope soloing setups : Post

Jan 15, 2015

Line of Hollow Victory

Line of Hollow Victory

WA : Southwest Cascades : ... : Hollow Victory (5.10+ R)

Sep 8, 2010

Lost Warriors is the route in yellow

Lost Warriors is the route in yellow

WA : Southwest Cascades : ... : Lost Warriors (5.11+ R)

May 24, 2010

J. Healy setting pro on 'The Wizard', circa 1986.

J. Healy setting pro on 'The Wizard', circa 1986.

MA : Leominster Area : ... : Fisherman's Wall

Nov 5, 2009

girl40

girl40

Healyje : Healyje Photos

May 5, 2006

Bob Culp on the Bastille Crack - April 2006.

Bob Culp on the Bastille Crack - April 2006.

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille Crack (5.7)

Apr 16, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : Photo
By: Healyje When: Apr 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Well, not that I know of, but no telling what's gone down since we put it up....


Location: IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff : Full Moon Foot Dance (V1 X)
By: Healyje When: Feb 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: You do not under any circumstance want to blow the last move off the climb. The crux[s] were the first and last moves.


Location: IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff : Makanda Layback (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Healyje When: Feb 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: a) Hump? It's 'Camel's Back', not 'Camel's Hump' - weird that would somehow change.

b) 'The Gully's finish is what you have marked as the 'Devil's Backbone' finish, the marked finish was a slightly spicier solo variation. It had two starts, the traditional one marked until the ground washed out, and the more commonly used marked start to Camel's Back and traverse left into The Gully. Also, The Gully typically went left in the 'gully' up to the seventh dash you have marked for 'Devil's Backbone'... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Lost Warriors (5.11+ R) : Photo
By: Healyje When: Aug 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Commenting when you haven't climbed pretty much makes you the only joke.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Dropzone (aka Farside) : (6) Main Cliff : Wushu Roof (5.10d)
By: Healyje When: Jun 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Ideally you want side-by-side Metolius #9 and #10 cams (or med. and large Super Cams) straight upwards into the dark slot at the roof crux. Both need the outside cam lobes to the left with the #9 to the inside and the #10 outboard next to it. The comparable BD cams would actually be the old 3.5/4.5 pairing, in the new ones I'm guessing two #4s. You have to pay attention to those placements, make sure they're all the way to the top of the slot.

Also, the route is ba... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Dropzone (aka Farside) : (5)The Landing : Tunnel Vision (5.11b)
By: Healyje When: Jun 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I consider the crux throw to be the single most strenuous move out there.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Healyje When: Aug 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: It is again a good bit of climbing and the same issues were raised on the East Face of the Monkey with Watts pre-placement of gear vs. Trotter doing a real FFA. FFA does stand for 'First Free Ascent', but was never meant outside of the context of placing gear on lead and that's my only question in this instance. And so long as this isn't some kind of prelude to retro-bolting the route or the South Face columns in general I certainly have no problem with it at all.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Healyje When: Aug 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Matt, good climbing, but I'm not at all clear how pre-placed gear in any way makes for a remotely valid FFA claim, at least not if, as Opdycke says, we're still "keeping it real" out at Beacon.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Stone Rodeo (5.12b)
By: Healyje When: May 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Excuse me? And who are you? The climb as not been retrobolted - it was rebolted (and you're welcome).


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Link-up: Free for All/Dod'... (5.10c)
By: Healyje When: Nov 30, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I suppose you could funk around with wide pro, but it really isn't necessary.

I lead the p2 offwidth all the time with just two large stoppers, each placed in an utterly bomb slot - one at 1/3 and the other at 2/3s of the way up the offwidth. Both can be placed from solid, stemmed stances.

Both placements are classic and couldn't be more solid; they are however back a ways in the crack (but obvious if you are looking) so each needs an extended trad draw. I use an HB Alloy o... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Old Warriors Never Die (5.12b PG13)
By: Healyje When: Sep 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: At this point the biggest danger is from the top 20' of the left side Wrong Gull pillar coming down on it.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Old Warriors Never Die (5.12b PG13)
By: Healyje When: Sep 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, some of the lines are PG-13 and R - doesn't mean they need retro-bolts, though.


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