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Member Since: Oct 14, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Hans


Point Rank: # 1,469
Total Points: 403
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 1
39 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Hans been climbing?










Contributions


All 259 | Routes 6 | Areas 2 | Photos 58 | Page Improvments | Comments 23 | Posts 35 | Stars 115 | Ratings 20

Contributed Comments

 

Location: General Climbing : Need Advice on Pigeon Spire... : Post : Photo
By: Hans When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Nice photo. Cool perspective.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Hans When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I stand corrected. BD 3's will fit in the final pitch, in spots.

On the 3rd pitch, the roof that used to be there fell off. There is just a scar there now, with good pro.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Centre Street (5.10c)
By: Hans When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic climb with great gear throughout. Do it as one pitch for the full experience. The upper part protected very well with small cams.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Desperado (5.10c PG13)
By: Hans When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Not so sure about the PG13 rating. This takes bomber gear.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: Great photo, and an awesome climb.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Climb & Punishment (5.10d)
By: Hans When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: FYI the pin is gone.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Hans When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: Maybe the best climb I've ever done. Every pitch is amazing.

We followed the guidebook description for pitches, with the exception of linking the last two. It would make sense to link pitches 6 and 7 though, and I would do this the next time.

One BD 5 was plenty for the offwidth as there was a fixed chockstone with tat on it that you could clip. This pitch was easier than expected.

Bring all your 4's for the penultimate pitch. That's all it will take. Old 3.5's will fit.

I'm sure it's been ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: I spent the night there a few years ago.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Flake (5.10b)
By: Hans When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: Great gear and a wide variety of climbing styles here. Good rests too. Loved this route.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: Hans When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Cool knobs.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : South Face (5.8)
By: Hans When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Not much of a description, so I'll add what I can.

Approach via the trail to Sentinel Pass from Moraine Lake. As of 2012, a minimum of 4 people is required due to park restrictions from bear activity. However,this is a very popular hike so it is easy to join up with others at the trailhead.

The Grand Sentinel is located about 1km beyond the pass, towards the Paradise Valley.

P1: Low 5th class, 15m. Start around the left corner and climb a short pitch to a ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: 5.7,... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Paddle Flake Direct (5.10)
By: Hans When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: We did the original indirect Paddle Flake, using the first pitch of Westside Story to start, and this was a fantastic route. Every pitch was amazing, and I highly recommend it. I agree that this is a much better route than McTech.

Having said that, I thought the route description in the guidebook was just a bit off. Hopefully the following description is a bit more accurate. Grades and pitch lengths are only estimates.

P1: 5.9, 50m. Start well right of the main corner, and follow broken cracks... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Beckey-Chouinard (5.10)
By: Hans When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: Some beta:

The rappels can be done with a 60m rope, although some are definitely rope stretchers. I wasn't sure about this, and had read conflicting reports.

At 6 AM, we did not need ice axes or crampons to descend into East Creek, nor to approach the route from East Creek, although it was slippery at times.

Recent BC parks rule changes now dictate that a bivy at the Pigeon-Howser col is allowed for this route.

We climbed Pigeon Spire the day before and left our ropes and rack at the Pigeon-... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Milk Road (5.10d C0)
By: Hans When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: I thought that the route was fantastic. The ramp is lame, but the other new pitches are a lot of fun. 4 stars IMO.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Grub Street (5.10c)
By: Hans When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: A great 3 pitch route (recently cleaned) can be done by linking Old Style/Cider Crack/Grub Street. Access is via rappel from bolts.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cider Crack (5.9)
By: Hans When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: A great 3 pitch route (recently cleaned) can be done by linking Old Style/Cider Crack/Grub Street. Access is via rappel from bolts.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Old Style (5.9)
By: Hans When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: A great 3 pitch route (recently cleaned) can be done by linking Old Style/Cider Crack/Grub Street. Access is via rappel from bolts.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Canadian North Cascades : ... : Northeast Buttress (5.9)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2010

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Comments: As of 2009 the Chilliwack-Slesse FSR was gated and closed by the Canadian military.

Yes, I too was surprised that we have a military.

This isn't bad news though. The Crossover Pass descent is getting used a lot now and should become easier to follow with traffic. And this means no extra car/bike, and a faster trip overall. Thanks to Jeremy Frimer for his hard work on clearing a trail here.

It's not that tough to complete the entire route in a day, from car to car, with an early (pre dawn) st... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Northwest Ridge (5.4 X)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2010

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Comments: Descending the north east ridge a short distance and then cutting back on a narrow ledge system towards the NW arete is much faster than rappelling/downclimbing the upper part of the arete.

IMO the new bolted rappel route on the lower part is a lot faster than downclimbing, but be careful on the rappels. One of them (guessing 4th one, but I can't remember - marked in green tape at one point) requires rappelling to the north to avoid an overhanging portion on the west face. There was a fatality ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Supervalue (5.10c)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2010

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Comments: One of the bolts is really hard to reach if you're short like me.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Angel's Crest (5.10b)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2010

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Comments: Linking P3-4, and P5-6 makes sense, and saves quite a bit of time.

There are a couple of variations that aren't mentioned.

On the whaleback arete pitch (second pitch after acrophobes), you can start with a steep crack to the left (around the corner - 10b or so). IMO this is better than the regular route.

On the last pitch, instead of climbing the chimney you can climb a steep and thin crack on the left past 2 fixed pins to the summit (about 10c). A bit burly, and an awesome pitch.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : McTech Arete (5.10-)
By: Hans When: Dec 13, 2007

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Comments: I thought the crux was the finish on the first pitch.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Dec 13, 2007

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Comments: I agree. This pitch is amazing.