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Member Since: Oct 14, 2007
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,283
Total Points: 486
Last Year: 89
Last 30 Days: 16
39 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Hans been climbing?










Contributions


All 291 | Routes 7 | Areas 3 | Photos 68 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 40 | Stars 122 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : McTech Roof (5.10+)
By: Hans When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Or rap off the anchor at the top of P1 described above, if you only want to climb the roof.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Ears Between (5.7)
By: Hans When: 2 days ago

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Comments: This is a great climb, and very popular. There is a lot of loose rock on the approach, much of it very unstable, so be careful. Come in from the left or the right.

The direct start is very good, and is best done as a full 60 or 70m pitch. If you run the next pitches long also, there are just 3 more to the top of chimney pitch. The summit is a short scramble from here.


Location: Climbing Skills : Rope Commands for Multi-pit...
By: Hans When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: I'll add that rope tugs etc are often a waste of time as it's too difficult to discern what is actually a tug vs. normal climbing rope movement. And don't get me started on radios, which are sold in climbing shops right next to the giant hexes.

When in doubt, the belayer should always leave the leader on belay, and should disassemble the anchor and start climbing shortly after the rope comes tight to him.

This is assuming an intelligent leader who only takes up extra rope when he is 100% read... more >>


Location: Climbing Skills : Save Time and Avoid Stuck R...
By: Hans When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: It's faster and more simple to coil the ropes and use "saddle bags" as auto feeders.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Hey, that's me!

Hmmm. Kind of a s***load of cams on my rack.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: This pitch is stellar.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Cooper-Kor (5.10+ R)
By: Hans When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Fantastic route, and a great option when the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is out of condition. This year (2014) the Cooper-Kor seemed to be getting climbed a lot.

My partner and I both found the route description in the guidebook to be hard to follow. Here is what we did, and I'm convinced we were 100% on route. If you prefer to be adventurous and figure it out for yourself, don't read on.

P1. Start inside the bergshrund at the left edge of the face, and climb an easy wideish crack to a brilliant rig... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: This is typical of the climbing on the route.


Location: General Climbing : Need Advice on Pigeon Spire... : Post : Photo
By: Hans When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Nice photo. Cool perspective.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Hans When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I stand corrected. BD 3's will fit in the final pitch, in spots.

On the 3rd pitch, the roof that used to be there fell off. There is just a scar there now, with good pro.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Centre Street (5.10c)
By: Hans When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic climb with great gear throughout. Do it as one pitch for the full experience. The upper part protected very well with small cams.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Desperado (5.10c PG13)
By: Hans When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Not so sure about the PG13 rating. This takes bomber gear.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: Great photo, and an awesome climb.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Climb & Punishment (5.10d)
By: Hans When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: FYI the pin is gone.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Hans When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: Maybe the best climb I've ever done. Every pitch is amazing.

We followed the guidebook description for pitches, with the exception of linking the last two. It would make sense to link pitches 6 and 7 though, and I would do this the next time.

One BD 5 was plenty for the offwidth as there was a fixed chockstone with tat on it that you could clip. This pitch was easier than expected.

Bring all your 4's for the penultimate pitch. That's all it will take. Old 3.5's will fit.

I'm sure it's been ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: I spent the night there a few years ago.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Flake (5.10b)
By: Hans When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: Great gear and a wide variety of climbing styles here. Good rests too. Loved this route.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: Hans When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Cool knobs.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : South Face (5.8)
By: Hans When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Not much of a description, so I'll add what I can.

Approach via the trail to Sentinel Pass from Moraine Lake. As of 2012, a minimum of 4 people is required due to park restrictions from bear activity. However,this is a very popular hike so it is easy to join up with others at the trailhead.

The Grand Sentinel is located about 1km beyond the pass, towards the Paradise Valley.

P1: Low 5th class, 15m. Start around the left corner and climb a short pitch to a ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: 5.7,... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Paddle Flake Direct (5.10)
By: Hans When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: We did the original indirect Paddle Flake, using the first pitch of Westside Story to start, and this was a fantastic route. Every pitch was amazing, and I highly recommend it. I agree that this is a much better route than McTech.

Having said that, I thought the route description in the guidebook was just a bit off. Hopefully the following description is a bit more accurate. Grades and pitch lengths are only estimates.

P1: 5.9, 50m. Start well right of the main corner, and follow broken cracks... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Beckey-Chouinard (5.10)
By: Hans When: Aug 19, 2012

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Comments: Some beta:

The rappels can be done with a 60m rope, although some are definitely rope stretchers. I wasn't sure about this, and had read conflicting reports.

At 6 AM, we did not need ice axes or crampons to descend into East Creek, nor to approach the route from East Creek, although it was slippery at times.

Recent BC parks rule changes now dictate that a bivy at the Pigeon-Howser col is allowed for this route.

We climbed Pigeon Spire the day before and left our ropes and rack at the Pigeon-... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Milk Road (5.10d C0)
By: Hans When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: I thought that the route was fantastic. The ramp is lame, but the other new pitches are a lot of fun. 4 stars IMO.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Grub Street (5.10c)
By: Hans When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: A great 3 pitch route (recently cleaned) can be done by linking Old Style/Cider Crack/Grub Street. Access is via rappel from bolts.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cider Crack (5.9)
By: Hans When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: A great 3 pitch route (recently cleaned) can be done by linking Old Style/Cider Crack/Grub Street. Access is via rappel from bolts.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Old Style (5.9)
By: Hans When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: A great 3 pitch route (recently cleaned) can be done by linking Old Style/Cider Crack/Grub Street. Access is via rappel from bolts.


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