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Member Since: Oct 14, 2007
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Hans

Point Rank: # 834
Total Points: 832
Last Year: 429
Last 30 Days: 95
61 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Hans been climbing?










Contributions


All 399 | Routes 15 | Areas 4 | Photos 115 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 44 | Posts 53 | Stars 146 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Squamish Days Traverse (V2)
By: Hans When: 1 day ago

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Comments: In order to get the V2 grade you need to stay high and avoid the good holds a bit lower. Otherwise it's more like a V0 or V0-.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Squamish Days (V0)
By: Hans When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Skipping the arete is a fun eliminate that bumps the grade up a bit, at least if you're short.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Great Game (5.10c/d)
By: Hans When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: There are bolted anchors every 35m or so as John says, but they aren't set up for rappels. We left some tat on the last two and made it down, but keep this in mind. Walking off would be a lot faster.

Great climb BTW. First pitch is definitely harder than the rest, which have only short cruxes.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: I may be wrong but I don't think this is Grub Street. I think this is too far to climber's right, and leads to the easy bolted slab routes on the right side of the upper Malamute


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito
By: Hans When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Some beta on the south side descent.

From the summit of the Mescalito we followed a heavily cairned path southwest as per the description on SummitPost. This was extremely easy to follow, and led to a gully that brought us down to the south fork of Pine Canyon, perhaps 200-300 metres up the canyon from the start of Cat in the Hat.

Two rappels were necessary (about 10 metres and 22 metres respectively) from chain anchors. All difficulties were over after these two rappels. Prior to th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (Full) (5.8)
By: Hans When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Some beta on the descent.

From the summit of the Mescalito we followed a heavily cairned path southwest as per the description on SummitPost. This was extremely easy to follow, and led to a gully that brought us down to the south fork of Pine Canyon, perhaps 200-300 metres up the canyon from the start of Cat in the Hat.

Two rappels were necessary (about 10 metres and 22 metres respectively) from chain anchors near the bottom of the gully. Prior to this there were some very short sect... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sour Mash (5.10a)
By: Hans When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Nice route with fun and varied climbing. Brought a BD2 and 3 and placed neither. I happily clipped all the bolts, but I see why there might be complaints. I thought it ended in a weird spot. Why stop there?


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: To be honest, no idea. Probably 5.10, but that is just a guess.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Right Wing (5.10d PG13)
By: Hans When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Very amazing route. For the main dihedral the manly thing to do would be to send it in one enduro pitch. I'm not very manly.

We did the left finish and it's one of the raddest pitches out there. At one point I was kneebaring the overhanging giant beak flake, protected by a BD#5, and then had to pull over onto the flake with a heel hook. Amazing.

I didn't have a 6 which would be nice for the end of this pitch, though this part of the pitch is not really that difficult. I resorted to placi... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Chewbacca (5.10-)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: I found the first pitch to be hard and the chimney pitch to be easy.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : South Ridge (5.10a PG13)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: First I have to say that Ken did an amazing job with this page. This is the standard for what a route description should be. Great job. I wish the rest of MP was like this.

Second, this route is fantastic.

Third, there are a lot of goats up there. And there are really a lot of annoying bugs, though once you are on the route the bugs go away. The goats don't. I saw two of them on the summit, and they followed us down.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Direct Southeast Ridge (5.6)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: On a rainy rest day we got a break in the weather and so my partner and I climbed this route, mostly for something to do.

So first I have to say that it's kind of a POS compared to all the other routes in the Bugaboos, but we had a good time and so that's why I give it 3 stars. There's some loose rock, and not much in the way of climbing, but it's gets you to the top of the spire. And then you can go down a different way which is always nice. Plus you end up at the little lake where you can go... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Caboose (5.10a)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: Great climb, and a total sandbag at 10a. Seems to be always just a little bit damp. Be very careful as this is quite close to the tracks.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : McTech Roof (5.10+)
By: Hans When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Or rap off the anchor at the top of P1 described above, if you only want to climb the roof.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Ears Between (5.7)
By: Hans When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: This is a great climb, and very popular. There is a lot of loose rock on the approach, much of it very unstable, so be careful. Come in from the left or the right.

The direct start is very good, and is best done as a full 60 or 70m pitch. If you run the next pitches long also, there are just 3 more to the top of chimney pitch. The summit is a short scramble from here.


Location: Climbing Skills : Rope Commands for Multi-pit...
By: Hans When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: I'll add that rope tugs etc are often a waste of time as it's too difficult to discern what is actually a tug vs. normal climbing rope movement. And don't get me started on radios, which are sold in climbing shops right next to the giant hexes.

When in doubt, the belayer should always leave the leader on belay, and should disassemble the anchor and start climbing shortly after the rope comes tight to him.

This is assuming an intelligent leader who only takes up extra rope when he is 100% read... more >>


Location: Climbing Skills : Save Time and Avoid Stuck R...
By: Hans When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: It's faster and more simple to coil the ropes and use "saddle bags" as auto feeders.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Hey, that's me!

Hmmm. Kind of a s***load of cams on my rack.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: This pitch is stellar.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Cooper-Kor (5.10+ R)
By: Hans When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Fantastic route, and a great option when the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is out of condition. This year (2014) the Cooper-Kor seemed to be getting climbed a lot.

My partner and I both found the route description in the guidebook to be hard to follow. Here is what we did, and I'm convinced we were 100% on route. If you prefer to be adventurous and figure it out for yourself, don't read on.

P1. Start inside the bergshrund at the left edge of the face, and climb an easy wideish crack to a brilliant rig... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: This is typical of the climbing on the route.


Location: General Climbing : Need Advice on Pigeon Spire... : Post : Photo
By: Hans When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Nice photo. Cool perspective.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Hans When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I stand corrected. BD 3's will fit in the final pitch, in spots.

On the 3rd pitch, the roof that used to be there fell off. There is just a scar there now, with good pro.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Centre Street (5.10c)
By: Hans When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic climb with great gear throughout. Do it as one pitch for the full experience. The upper part protected very well with small cams.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Desperado (5.10c PG13)
By: Hans When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Not so sure about the PG13 rating. This takes bomber gear.


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