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Member Since: Oct 14, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 939
Total Points: 707
Last Year: 305
Last 30 Days: 1
48 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Hans been climbing?










Contributions


All 344 | Routes 10 | Areas 4 | Photos 102 | Page Improvements | Comments 37 | Posts 43 | Stars 128 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: To be honest, no idea. Probably 5.10, but that is just a guess.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Right Wing (5.10d PG13)
By: Hans When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Very amazing route. For the main dihedral the manly thing to do would be to send it in one enduro pitch. I'm not very manly.

We did the left finish and it's one of the raddest pitches out there. At one point I was kneebaring the overhanging giant beak flake, protected by a BD#5, and then had to pull over onto the flake with a heel hook. Amazing.

I didn't have a 6 which would be nice for the end of this pitch, though this part of the pitch is not really that difficult. I resorted to placi... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Chewbacca (5.10-)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: I found the first pitch to be hard and the chimney pitch to be easy.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : South Ridge (5.10a PG13)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: First I have to say that Ken did an amazing job with this page. This is the standard for what a route description should be. Great job. I wish the rest of MP was like this.

Second, this route is fantastic.

Third, there are a lot of goats up there. And there are really a lot of annoying bugs, though once you are on the route the bugs go away. The goats don't. I saw two of them on the summit, and they followed us down.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Direct Southeast Ridge (5.6)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: On a rainy rest day we got a break in the weather and so my partner and I climbed this route, mostly for something to do.

So first I have to say that it's kind of a POS compared to all the other routes in the Bugaboos, but we had a good time and so that's why I give it 3 stars. There's some loose rock, and not much in the way of climbing, but it's gets you to the top of the spire. And then you can go down a different way which is always nice. Plus you end up at the little lake where you can go... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Caboose (5.10a)
By: Hans When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: Great climb, and a total sandbag at 10a. Seems to be always just a little bit damp. Be very careful as this is quite close to the tracks.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : McTech Roof (5.10+)
By: Hans When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Or rap off the anchor at the top of P1 described above, if you only want to climb the roof.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Ears Between (5.7)
By: Hans When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: This is a great climb, and very popular. There is a lot of loose rock on the approach, much of it very unstable, so be careful. Come in from the left or the right.

The direct start is very good, and is best done as a full 60 or 70m pitch. If you run the next pitches long also, there are just 3 more to the top of chimney pitch. The summit is a short scramble from here.


Location: Climbing Skills : Rope Commands for Multi-pit...
By: Hans When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: I'll add that rope tugs etc are often a waste of time as it's too difficult to discern what is actually a tug vs. normal climbing rope movement. And don't get me started on radios, which are sold in climbing shops right next to the giant hexes.

When in doubt, the belayer should always leave the leader on belay, and should disassemble the anchor and start climbing shortly after the rope comes tight to him.

This is assuming an intelligent leader who only takes up extra rope when he is 100% read... more >>


Location: Climbing Skills : Save Time and Avoid Stuck R...
By: Hans When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: It's faster and more simple to coil the ropes and use "saddle bags" as auto feeders.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Hey, that's me!

Hmmm. Kind of a s***load of cams on my rack.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: This pitch is stellar.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Cooper-Kor (5.10+ R)
By: Hans When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Fantastic route, and a great option when the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is out of condition. This year (2014) the Cooper-Kor seemed to be getting climbed a lot.

My partner and I both found the route description in the guidebook to be hard to follow. Here is what we did, and I'm convinced we were 100% on route. If you prefer to be adventurous and figure it out for yourself, don't read on.

P1. Start inside the bergshrund at the left edge of the face, and climb an easy wideish crack to a brilliant rig... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: This is typical of the climbing on the route.


Location: General Climbing : Need Advice on Pigeon Spire... : Post : Photo
By: Hans When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Nice photo. Cool perspective.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Hans When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I stand corrected. BD 3's will fit in the final pitch, in spots.

On the 3rd pitch, the roof that used to be there fell off. There is just a scar there now, with good pro.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Centre Street (5.10c)
By: Hans When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic climb with great gear throughout. Do it as one pitch for the full experience. The upper part protected very well with small cams.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Desperado (5.10c PG13)
By: Hans When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Not so sure about the PG13 rating. This takes bomber gear.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: Great photo, and an awesome climb.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Climb & Punishment (5.10d)
By: Hans When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: FYI the pin is gone.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Hans When: Dec 19, 2012

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Comments: Maybe the best climb I've ever done. Every pitch is amazing.

We followed the guidebook description for pitches, with the exception of linking the last two. It would make sense to link pitches 6 and 7 though, and I would do this the next time.

One BD 5 was plenty for the offwidth as there was a fixed chockstone with tat on it that you could clip. This pitch was easier than expected.

Bring all your 4's for the penultimate pitch. That's all it will take. Old 3.5's will fit.

I'm sure it's been ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : Photo
By: Hans When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: I spent the night there a few years ago.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Flake (5.10b)
By: Hans When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: Great gear and a wide variety of climbing styles here. Good rests too. Loved this route.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: Hans When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Cool knobs.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : South Face (5.8)
By: Hans When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Not much of a description, so I'll add what I can.

Approach via the trail to Sentinel Pass from Moraine Lake. As of 2012, a minimum of 4 people is required due to park restrictions from bear activity. However,this is a very popular hike so it is easy to join up with others at the trailhead.

The Grand Sentinel is located about 1km beyond the pass, towards the Paradise Valley.

P1: Low 5th class, 15m. Start around the left corner and climb a short pitch to a ledge with a bolted belay.

P2: 5.7,... more >>


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