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Once you have Black, you will fear to go back...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 49
Total Points: 7,272
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 4140 | Routes 376 | Areas 44 | Photos 495 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 371 | Posts 160 | Stars 2399 | Ratings 293
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Last in Show (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: 4 days ago

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Comments: The climbing on this one is actually pretty cool, but it is one of the most chossy climbs at the Palace. You will get pump out of your mind testing every hold and sequence, since everything looks like it will pop off in your face!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Suburbia (5.10b/c)
By: Guy H. When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: You are correct, Adam, you will deck if you are not playing attention. This doesn't mean we need to add another bolt. It would most likely get chopped....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Metropolis (5.11d)
By: Guy H. When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: I have always thought the bolt positions gave the route some character. Yes, you don't have a bolt at you waist for the crux. It forces you to climb with confidence.

[Edit: If you are wanting a route that you whip at any point, I would suggest some of the newer routes at Shelf. The other option is 15ft stick clip for the 2nd bolt.]


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Delicate Sound of Thund... (5.11a) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: The first clip looks scary, since the sling would probably unclip from the biner in this configuration.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags : Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: I was assuming that it wasn't you. I just feel sorry for the next guy who pulls his rope down in the left over ash.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags : Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: Hmmm... starting a fire at the base of a climb? I am sorry you got cold, but this seem like a questionable practice.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Dec 14, 2014

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Comments: Everyone should write an email to "FiveTen" and let them know what they think of one of their sponsored athletes.

Here is the only email link that I could find:
support.fiveten.com/chat.php


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Great topo, Chris! We did the 5.9 mixed crack pitch, which was incredible. I highly recommend that you bring a #5 and #6, it will speed things up. We forgot the #4 C4 at the truck but had a #3 C4 and #4 Friend. This worked well, if you want to save some weight.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Imagination Wall : Central Slab Area : The Imaginator (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Yep... The second pitch is R rated. Once you pull around the roof you have to do a committing 5.11 move to clip the bolt with bad feet. If you screw up, you will hit the slab below. Too bad the bolt above the roof isn't 2ft lower. The first pitch is amazing, except for the crappy hanging belay.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : The Imagination Wall : Left Wall : Learning to Fly (5.10d)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Don't waste your time on this one. The first pitch is OK, but the second is horrible. There is lots of loose rock and forced movement that is harder than the grade. Maybe all of the holds that made it 5.10 broke off already?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Guy H. When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: A slackline can produce 1000's lbs of force in the direction of line. A climber only acts in the direction of gravity. With the tilted cap stone, a slackline on this formation was a poor choice. I am sure they made a cool video, though.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: I think it is more of a stop taking my f'ing picture look. I have seen that one before.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: It almost looks like the traverse into Space Invaders right below the first bolt, but it is the final traverse on Outer Space near the 2nd to last pin.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Iron Hayden Wall
By: Guy H. When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: There are ~7 bolted/mixed routes to the left of "Sun and Steel". At least one of them has 3+ pitches and tops out to the left.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : East Corner
By: Guy H. When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Standing on the slabs below Spectreman, you can see the routes on the East Corner. The fastest approach to the area goes right by Spectreman, so this is the best reference point. You will have to hike through the trees with no defined trail. It is 200-300yrds SW of Spectremen. Sorry you guys couldn't find it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Bell Air (5.11b/c)
By: Guy H. When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: The hornet nest is gone. The poor bolting on P2 still remains. The 1st bolt is in a weird spot based on where the anchors are located. You will cross load your biner, so don't fall before clipping the second bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Disneyland (5.11d)
By: Guy H. When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: Be careful of the sharp edge on the dihedral @ 2nd to last bolt. It could cut your rope if you were unlucky!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End : The Lifus's Farm Tools (5.10b)
By: Guy H. When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: If you move left at the last bolt, it is very straightforward, and it doesn't feel runout or cruxy.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Torture Chamber : WTF (5.8)
By: Guy H. When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: All of the first ascents you are claiming were probably solo'ed 20+ years ago.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : A Midsummer's Night Dream (5.11a)
By: Guy H. When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: There is currently a fixed #4 on the Sex Comedy finish. We only had one #3 and #4, which worked out with back cleaning the #3 once.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Walk of Shame (V-easy X)
By: Guy H. When: Apr 13, 2014

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Comments: I wonder how many climbers have done this when they discovered they didn't have their climbing shoes when they reached the base. We reached the base of Scenic Cruise in the dark, in order to beat an approaching winter storm to the top. Somewhere on the descent, my climbing shoes came unclipped from my harness. After reaching the top of the second rap, we found them sitting on a rock. We decided to not press our luck and climb Midsummer's instead. The storm rolled in about 1pm and after our fi... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Slab Route (5.7) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Nope, just a rope shadow...


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The New Philanthropists (5.11b/c)
By: Guy H. When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: The anchor bolts are in a hollow flake. A little scary....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Atalanta (5.3)
By: Guy H. When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: I did an interesting variation above the first tree. Head left to a ramp system that turns into a hanging dihedral. The ramp slowing disppears until the crux bulge (5.6). It is very exposed with good rock (poor pro).


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : The Nod (formerly submitted...
By: Guy H. When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: There are 3-4 routes to the right of the "Nod" area that might be worth doing. Head right from the base and you should see the routes.


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