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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Cold Turkey (5.9+)
By: Guy H. When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The horn in the chimney is gone. There is a nice foot in its place.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Ragged Edges (5.8) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Mar 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This P1 of Plan F...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Funeral March (5.9)
By: Guy H. When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: About 75 pounds of rock came out of the upper section this weekend. It is probably best to cut left to the hand crack finish. Scary!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The easiest path down climbs 4-5 feet then traverses to the next bolt.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Endgame (5.10a)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is possible to rap back down to your packs with two ropes. We had a 63M static & a 70M.
Make 2 two single rope raps from the summit to the P3 belay. You might be able to do these with a 60M. We used a 70M, with low potential for stuck ropes. Then make two double rope raps using the Jimmywacky P1 anchors. (50M and 61M) There are potential rope issues, so think about how you pull your ropes and scope out the chicken heads on the way down!
I only placed a #0.75, #1, and a larg... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : East Face (5.10a)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can place two small C3's after pulling the roof and before the bolt. I placed them from a funky double knee bar, which made the route for me. Lots of fun climbing for a short route!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Oct 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, that is Iron Horse....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 2 fixed #3 cams on this pitch. You really don't even need to bring a #3, if you are solid on big hand cracks.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Lovely Liana (5.11b)
By: Guy H. When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is still a little bit of flaky rock on this pitch, but the face climbing is high quality with good protection. A single set of camalots from 0.5 to #4 friend will protect the upper hand crack. Doubles from 0.75 to 3 will sew it up.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Specter (5.10d)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with Chris on this one. Felt pretty hard for 5.10d. Excellent climbing though....
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It looks like you can do the 5.11 traverse three different ways.
-Hands on the horizontal with bad feet
-Feet on the horizontal using the low side pulls
-If you are over ~6'2", you can grab a great crimp halfway so the hard moves are right next to your gear.
I would recommend taping your 3 middle fingers on both hands. The flake above the roof is SHARP! The 1st 20ft of P4 would be unprotected without a #5 C4. I guess if you have small knees, the climbing would be very secure.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Aug 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I get a falling sensation just looking at that one!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northeast Face : Cowboys and Indians (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Aug 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was a massive rock fall event near the start this weekend. The base may be unstable at the moment, so be careful. The descent to climber's left is straightforward and fast. Trend right in the gully and you can stay out of most of the loose stuff.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Aug 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this picture only makes sense after you have done the route. The route finding is pretty straightforward with the written description. It does get a little tricky on P6 & P7. On P6 you need to head up to the roof and cut across a ledge system. We went to the arete before hitting the roof. On P7, you just need to keep a eye open for the sparse bolts.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Guy H. When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is indeed a fun route with a good mix of face and crack climbing. All 7 pitches had some interesting climbing in the 5.10 range. The rock is still a little flakey in a few spots but nothing to be concerned with. The rack recommendation is right on, except we never placed any cams smaller than a blue Alien/green C3. The #4 was useful on P5, but you could do without it.
The moves on P6 might be height-dependent, so a 5.11- rating would be fair. Loved the chickenheads on the last fe... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - North : Beware of Nesting Egos (5.11b PG13)
By: Guy H. When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is possible to climb right at the last bolt to make this an excellent 5.11a. The left variation is still a full value 5.11b.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Jerry's Kids (5.10b)
By: Guy H. When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Make sure you bring a set of offset nuts (7-11) for this climb. You will miss a couple bomber placements, if you don't.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Carl's Face (5.10c)
By: Guy H. When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Save a #2 C3 before the the last bolt, or you will be talking to yourself.
Excellent movement that is mildly committing!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Sterling Pass : unknown- aka "Firecracker" (5.11c) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: May 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Burly!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead
By: Guy H. When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the trail work. It is now a casual 30min hike, with some uphill both ways.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot, Rob!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9) : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Apr 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard this was a 5.10 variation.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Mar 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow!!! Nice shot, Rob.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Schwing Salute (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Mar 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy for the grade if you find the hidden edge, otherwise you may have some issues. Great movement and rock....
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Violet Blue (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Mar 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 2nd pitch is one of the best in the canyon! Too bad the 2nd bolt on P2 is such a pain in the ass to clip. If it was 6-8in lower, you wouldn't have to worry about falling on your belayer.
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