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Member Since: Jan 3, 2010
Last Visit: Apr 12, 2015
Contact Gunkswest

Point Rank: # 187
Total Points: 2,784
Last Year: 617
Last 30 Days: 9
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Gunkswest been climbing?

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All 548 | Routes 187 | Areas 32 | Photos 81 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 20 | Posts 11 | Stars 200 | Ratings 14

Contributed Comments


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Dixville Notch : Umbrella Route (Parasol Gul... (WI2+ Steep Snow)
By: Gunkswest When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments: One of the ten best ice routes in New England. Fun climbing in a beautiful setting.

What are the ten you ask? Here's one person's list (in order of technical difficulty):

Parasol Gully (Dixville Notch)
Cinema Gully to Cauliflower Gully (Mt Willard; Crawford Notch)
Pinnacle Gully (Huntington Ravine; Mt Washington)
Waterfall Gully (South Basin; Mt Katahdin)
Black Dike (Cannon Cliff; Franconia Notch)
Dracula (Frankenstein Cliff; Crawford Notch)
Ra... more >>

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : South Dakota Dome : Black Hills Gold (5.10c)
By: Gunkswest When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: Original route name as listed in Bartlett book was "Black Hills Gold" (to go with South Dakota Dome).

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Never Grow Up (5.9)
By: Gunkswest When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: The crux move is a bit easier than 5.9+ if you are tall. Small wires or smallest cams protect crux well.

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Sabino Canyon
By: Gunkswest When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: As of 10 February 2015, fee was $8 for adults. Parking/tram operates 9am-430pm during winter months (mid-December - June).


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Pena de Bernal : Bernalina (5.8-)
By: Gunkswest When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: As of 01-2015:
Bernalina is a fun, moderate route to a great summit.

Start at the point where the main hiking trail meets the south face of Pena de Bernal. There's a small clearing just off the left side of the trail where you can gear up.

P1: Follow bolts up and left past an intermediate anchor to a second anchor (5.6 PG; 50m).

P2: Climb more or less straight up to another anchor (5.7- PG13; 45m).

P3: Do a very low 5th class or 4th class pitch past three or four bolts to... more >>

Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Pena de Bernal
By: Gunkswest When: Jan 4, 2015

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Comments: As of 01-2015, you can easily rappel straight down from the top of the via ferreta with a single 60m rope.

As of 01-2015, here's the descent from the summit of Pena de Bernal:
A) From the top of Bernalina, et al, walk past the crosses and then follow an obvious path down and left around a small cliffband.
B) Scramble down right and then left around another small cliffband to a saddle.
C) Carefully descend about 25 vertical feet down a low-angled slab from the saddle to the top of an obvious gul... more >>

Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Pena de Bernal : El Lado Oscuro de la Luna (5.9)
By: Gunkswest When: Jan 4, 2015

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Comments: According to the March 2013 guidebook (page 411), the pink hangers/route described herein is actually the climb Via del Padre.

El Lado Oscuro de la Luna is the next climb to the right (uphill about eight feet) of the pink hangers. As of 01-2015, the bolts on El Lado Oscuro de la Luna were predominantly old and rusty.

At least the first two pitches of El Lado Oscuro de la Luna can be rappelled with a single 60m rope.

Location: TX : Georgetown Hospital
By: Gunkswest When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: To save those unfamiliar with Texas some time, Georgetown is located about 30 minutes north of Austin, TX and roughly 2.5 hours south of Fort Worth, TX.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ken Black Memorial Dome : My Friends Treat Me Like a ... (5.8)
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: The "slot" mentioned in the description might also be called a "gully." You climb up the gully about 30 feet to the second (and larger) of two bushes. Directly to the right of the upper bush on the main face is a bolt.

Climb up past the bolt on decent scoops to reach a vertical crack where you can get gear. Continue up and then left along the crack/flake to the summit, or better yet, clip the final bolt on Pacific Ave Dorm to protect exposed moves to the summit.

You'll need cams bigger than ... more >>

Location: International : North America : Belize : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: MAKB (and others):

If you make it to Belize, please bring your old climbing shoes to give to the local adventure guides - they'll be VERY grateful!

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Alpers Canyon : Mind Dart Rock : The Love Bolt (5.10a)
By: Gunkswest When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: This route is located on the back side of the Mind Dart formation and faces away from the road. From a point where the road into Alpers Canyon goes steeply uphill, walk uphill toward the cliff to a small pass. Cross over the pass onto the back (east) side of the formation and walk a short way downhill (south) to reach the climb. The route has three or four bolts and an anchor.

Location: International : Europe : Bulgaria
By: Gunkswest When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: The Bulgarian climbing website linked above is a very good resource. I used the forum on the website and Google Translate to look for partners prior to my arrival in Sofia. I quickly and easily found three local Bulgarian climbers that spoke English and were willing to take me climbing.

As of 06/2013, there was a climber's club in Sofia as well as at least one indoor climbing gym ("Boulderland" at Paradise Center Sofia).

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Southern Superstition Forma... : ... : For a Few Pockets More (5.11a R)
By: Gunkswest When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: On the FA a tied off hook was used as protection at the top of the crack (those were still the quasi-trad days)...

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Intimidator Rocks : Power Back (5.10a)
By: Gunkswest When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: I believe the FA of this was Todd & Donette Swain, John Thackray, Tad Welch, Jim Lawyer, Emilie Drinkwater Tom Campbell in 10-2009. See Old is a Four Letter Word route description.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: Catch a Falling Car is actually further right than what is drawn in the photo. It goes to the right end of the low, right trending crack and then up past the one bolt (and crux moves) to connect with the last bolt on Catch a Falling Star. The route drawn in the photo more closely follows the line of Nobody Walks Their Car in LA.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : The Hen House : Eggshell (5.8+)
By: Gunkswest When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Ten feet right of Epperson’s Footprints. Start off the right edge of a boulder at the base of the slabby face.

Location: International : Asia : Laos : Vang Vieng
By: Gunkswest When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: August 3, 2012

We just spent several days climbing on Pha Daeng Mountain in Vang Vieng, Laos with local climbing school owner, Adam (real name Sangthong nieselt). Pha Daeng is currently the only place in Vang Vieng with routes that stay dry in the rainy season.

Adam is a great guy, who speaks good English and German. He was supremely helpful and a joy to get to know. In addition to guiding clients for half or full days, he has gear (ropes, quickdraws and shoes) that he will rent to those that... more >>

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wild Rose Buttress : Blackwater (5.10a)
By: Gunkswest When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: We did this route in 2000. It took us two days of cleaning and hence, we named it "Rose Gardening." Somehow our ascent didn't make it into Marty's last guidebook.

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Indian Springs : Lower Cliffs, Upper Tier : When Joey Comes Marching Ho... (5.10b)
By: Gunkswest When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: RC.com has this listed as "When Joey Comes Marching Home." This is a very good route. As mentioned, a couple TCUs can be used to supplement the bolts.

Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Road Warrior (5.9)
By: Gunkswest When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: Re Location: "This climb is the second bolted route as you walk to the wall from the parking area." This is no longer true.

There are about a half dozen bolted routes between this climb and the parking area now (07/2011). The picture in the route description accurately shows the location of this line, which is about 30 feet to the right of Road Soda (which has two obvious bolts on a steep wall near the ground).

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