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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Southern Superstition Forma... : ... : For a Few Pockets More (5.11a R)
By: Gunkswest When: Feb 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the FA a tied off hook was used as protection at the top of the crack (those were still the quasi-trad days)...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Intimidator Rocks : Power Back (5.10a)
By: Gunkswest When: Feb 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe the FA of this was Todd & Donette Swain, John Thackray, Tad Welch, Jim Lawyer, Emilie Drinkwater Tom Campbell in 10-2009. See Old is a Four Letter Word route description.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Feb 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Catch a Falling Car is actually further right than what is drawn in the photo. It goes to the right end of the low, right trending crack and then up past the one bolt (and crux moves) to connect with the last bolt on Catch a Falling Star. The route drawn in the photo more closely follows the line of Nobody Walks Their Car in LA.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Stone Hinge (5.10)
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Name: Stone Hinge (sic) 5.10-
FA: Tad Welch, Todd Swain, George Hurley & John Thackray
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks Area : Dr. Haney's Tool Shed Area : The Doublemint Twins (aka P... (5.10b)
By: Gunkswest When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Doublemint Twins 5.10- (TR) FA: Donette & Todd Swain March 2004
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks Area : The Hen House : Eggshell (5.8)
By: Gunkswest When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ten feet right of Epperson’s Footprints. Start off the right edge of a boulder at the base of the slabby face.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : Ulnar Nerve (5.10a)
By: Gunkswest When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Named Ulnar Nerve. FA Todd & Donette Swain, George Hurley.
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Location: International : Asia : Laos : Vang Vieng
By: Gunkswest When: Aug 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: August 3, 2012
We just spent several days climbing on Pha Daeng Mountain in Vang Vieng, Laos with local climbing school owner, Adam (real name Sangthong nieselt). Pha Daeng is currently the only place in Vang Vieng with routes that stay dry in the rainy season.
Adam is a great guy, who speaks good English and German. He was supremely helpful and a joy to get to know. In addition to guiding clients for half or full days, he has gear (ropes, quickdraws and shoes) that he will rent to those that... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wild Rose Buttress : Blackwater (5.10a)
By: Gunkswest When: Jun 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this route in 2000. It took us two days of cleaning and hence, we named it "Rose Gardening." Somehow our ascent didn't make it into Marty's last guidebook.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : North Lake Tahoe : Indian Springs : Upper Tier : Joey's (5.9+)
By: Gunkswest When: Jul 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: RC.com has this listed as "When Joey Comes Marching Home." This is a very good route. As mentioned, a couple TCUs can be used to supplement the bolts.
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Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sunshine Ridge : Road Warrior (5.9)
By: Gunkswest When: Jul 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re Location: "This climb is the second bolted route as you walk to the wall from the parking area." This is no longer true.
There are about a half dozen bolted routes between this climb and the parking area now (07/2011). The picture in the route description accurately shows the location of this line, which is about 30 feet to the right of Road Soda (which has two obvious bolts on a steep wall near the ground).
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Harley Queen (5.10c)
By: Gunkswest When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb yesterday. Very good route, the crux pitch is safe, but I would give it 11a not 10c.
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