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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 353
Total Points: 1,716
Last Year: 551
Last 30 Days: 65
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1684 | Routes 55 | Areas 4 | Photos 182 | Page Improvements | Comments 196 | Posts 1190 | Stars 57 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : Uncle Hal's Arete (5.8 PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Great route. I thought it was G rated gear-wise (not the stated PG), but maybe I drifted a bit too far right in the last few bodylengths, as there was a beautiful 1" crack leading to a spot even with, but a few feet right of, the anchors. Or maybe the very thin crack halfway up the route where I got in a couple red X4s was the "PG spot". Whatever, loved the pitch.

One dis - it's the only route I've done there where the top anchor in not well suited for lowering. It's a pair of beefy links t... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Good directions in the online guide; trail was easy to follow. Many THANKS to the crew that developed this fine cliff! It's a significant addition to ADK climbing. I'll be back!

Just a thought - bring a wrench. The bolts are new and we found a couple loose nuts (6th bolt in the Sully's chimney, and one of the drop-ins at the right-most route).

Also, the cliff faces NW and doesn't get the sun until around 3 PM, so it's a good spot for hot days.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : Hollie's High Step (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Yea, I placed big gear on this pitch! The top 1/3 of the route is simply fantastic.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : The Inverted Englishman (5.8-)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: I was able to get a very good #1 Camalot in the crack above the crux overhang. I had a big (4") cam on me but really couldn't see that being the best piece for that move.

No problem passing the tree. I did sling it though.

Nicest route we did on the cliff today IMO.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : The Success of Sully's Brid... (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: I find chimneys SO spooky, especially wide ones like this. There's just so much AIR under you.

Glad to see the + added to the grade, but what do I know; I get wigged out by chimneys. Fantastic line though.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Is there fixed hardware there? If not, what's so special about that spot?

And where is it in relation to the dead W.H. rap tree?


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Fortress : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: This is a better view of the 5.8+ route in the other photo.

You can alternatively finish several feet to the right of where the climber is, about where the ceiling tapers down to a reasonable size, but it's harder (solid 10) and non-obvious. And really wouldn't work at all if you were leading the pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Fortress : Photo (Copy)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: You can't really see the crack I'm on in this photo, but this is a really good line. Crack to corner capped by ceiling (pass on left). 5.8+ G ***


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Trapped Like a Rat (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: A well-known sandbag of a pitch. IMO you want to be solid leading 5.8 before tackling this one.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Eyesore (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: I really liked this route. I think it deserves to be in bold (i.e. recommended) in the grey Dick book. But I also agree with Swain's rating of 6+ for the pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Pony Express (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: You don't go to the to "top of the corner" on Horseman. It's barely a bodylength up the corner as I recall (and per the guidebook photo).

This is an old route that's hard to justify with today's climber traffic being as heavy as it is.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: The tree in the above 2 comments is now dead. Probably will be useably solid for another year though.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Cool Hand Dukes (5.8) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: Very dramatic bit of climbing up there. It's like the steep part of Madame G, on steroids.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Front C (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: From what I've seen, guides like it also, as it avoids the risk of putting clients on the traverse of LeG's 2nd pitch. (Plus, it's much better climbing)


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Le Gourmet Direct (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: I would say that while this is a good-to-very-good pitch, it is absolutely NOT a 5.6. So if you're looking for, say, a 5.7 challenge, get on it. The gear is decent, if varied and challenging at times. (I was working hard to sew it up but my second said everything was bomber) The climbing was "thoughtful", and that's good for the lead head once in a while I suppose. Bottom line - I'm really glad I did it.

Calling this a 5.6 helps substantiate Seneca's rep for sandbag grading. My home crag ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Maria (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: I KNOW this reply is 2 years late, but I want to address Divnamite's question about linking 3 pitches with a 70m rope. I suspect the cord will be long enough, but you must understand that the second will have ABSOLUTELY no security through the difficult moves of Maria Direct. A crash pad MAY be sufficient there (the ground under the tricky start is pretty flat, as I recall), but realize it's going to be a ground fall until your feet are above the pin. I know the usual advice - squat a few ti... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : s. The Golden Wall : The Golden Dream (5.9+)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: Esuf - the internet isn't the place to learn how to set up a TR on bolts (or otherwise use them in the course of your climbing); I think if you go take a look at the route and the bolts, you'll understand what's needed. If not, consider spending a day with someone who can teach you the basics.

I'll just point out that the bolts are Peterskill are generally NOT the sort you'd find atop a sport route, where you can often drop the rope in a pair of shuts (or hooks or fixed biners) and ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Black Fly (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Much better to walk off to climbers' RIGHT.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Dark Side
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: To approach the LOWER Dark Side, park at the red artists' cabin and descend there to the stream a short ways below Plattekill Falls. Cross the stream and follow the right bank downstream until you see the brink of the next waterfall (upper Bridalveil). Continue on a mostly level track past this until it's easy to angle downhill. In a couple minutes you'll come to the right end of the lower DS cliffband. Cross under the flows with extreme care (crampons on!) as the slope below you is steep en... more >>


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Black Chasm : Black Chasm Falls (WI3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: It's a bit silly to include in the route description how many screws this climb will take. It's highly variable, to say the least.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Black Chasm
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: The turn off to descend to the Chasm is not AFTER the leanto, but a couple 100 yds before it. Just after the second trail comes in on the right, as I recall. I've never been there when it wasn't well tracked and therefore hard to miss. (Administrator: Thanks Mike - fixed in route description)


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Devil's Kitchen : Snotcicle (WI3+) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: I believe this is a photo of The Snotcicle. StH is about 100 ft to the right.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Kaaterskill Falls : Kaaterskill Falls (WI4-5 X)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: If you're not intimidated by this pitch, you're just not paying attention!

If this is on your tic list, be patient and wait for it to come into something resembling safe condition. It might take a few years...


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Kaaterskill Falls : Kaaterskill Falls - Lower (WI3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: This was the only time I ever incorporated a bollard in my anchor. There really is nothing solid up there.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Moore's Bridge : Moore's Bridge - Center (WI... (WI3-4)
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: A 70m rope is needed to rap from the large tree atop the corner. There is usually a sling anchor here.


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