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if youre not having fun, then youre doing it wrong


Member Since: Jul 23, 2010
Last Visit: Apr 5, 2014
Contact greg t


Point Rank: # 2,371
Total Points: 207
Last Year: 110
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Contributions


All (80) | Routes | Areas | Photos (36) | Comments (27) | Posts (9) | Stars (7) | Ratings (1)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: greg t When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: Utah is just too easy to make it look rad


Location: UT : Zion National Park : West Temple : Big Lebowski (5.11a/b PG13)
By: greg t When: Dec 19, 2013

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Comments: I approach isnt that bad if you know where to go.. if not, it can get ugly. For the route.. it redefined the terms dirty, chossy, and death blocks. A memorable outing at best.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : The Weasel Formation : Live Free or Die Tower (5.9 C2)
By: greg t When: Dec 19, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this route in May 2011. I lived in NH for many years, and thought it was fitting to climb this. A good desert adventure. I lead the OW pitch with ease by pulling on a #6 in spots. My partner tried to free it on TR, and being not the best OW / chimney climber nearly puked from exhaustion. Amazing summit view.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : J Crags : Feeding the Rat - Part II (5.9-)
By: greg t When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: Ive only gotten on a handful of the routes in the area. Most of which were fun and memorable. I think I stick to my opinion, which is just that, about the rating. On pitch 2, I got 1 good cam right off the belay, then 1 bad cam in the crack 15ftish below the first bolt. The climbing in between the cams isnt too hard, but far and the rock is questionable in sections. A blown hold would result in extreme unpleasantness. In general climbing terms, I think this would support a pg13. I think a 9- vs... more >>


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Wall Of Tiers : Panty Shield (5.11 R)
By: greg t When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: To avoid the OW start, do the Utahpia start ( which is great climbing ) and traverse left at the ledge after the first 3 bolts. This variation is definitely one of the best routes on the wall.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Private Idaho (5.9)
By: greg t When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: I'm gonna go against the grain here and say "meh." It looks like a lot more fun than it is. Overall mediocre at best, especially compared to its neighbors Rollercoaster and Colossus, which are way better.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: greg t When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Epic shot!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Gateway Drug (5.12a)
By: greg t When: Jun 26, 2013

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Comments: Long slings for the anchors will greatly reduce the drag for the belayer for the 2nd, or if setting up a TR, which is really easy. about 55 inches from the chains to the edge.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Center Thumb (5.9+)
By: greg t When: Jun 21, 2013

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Comments: You can link the 1st 2 pitches with a 70m. Super fun route


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : On the Waterfront (5.12a) : Photo
By: greg t When: Jun 19, 2013

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Comments: shorts and a t-shirt w/ no tape.. ouch


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Singapore (5.11a PG13)
By: greg t When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: red c3's


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Specter Wall : Apparition (5.11)
By: greg t When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: slabby crux, the rest is just about finding the right holds.. which can be well hidden at times.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Pirate Treasure (5.11)
By: greg t When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: Definitely a height dependent crux.. I'm 5'9".. whiff


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : Knights-Errant (5.8)
By: greg t When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: The first two pitches are fantastic! The start of the 4th pitch is kind of a sketchy ledge fall situation. I broke off a large hold and bailed. The climbing could be harder now without the hold. I recommend you climb the first two pitches, bring some bail biners, then go solo 1000ft of fun for a well rounded day.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : J Crags : Feeding the Rat - Part II (5.9-)
By: greg t When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: The first two pitches have some interesting slab moves, but the last two crack pitches are more like hiking up a steep gully. The second pitch sports 1 bolt, that is well placed considering the crux, but getting to the bolt is long way on some debatable rock, and a potential fall would be extremely unpleasant. Overall I wouldn't recommend this climb, but if you do it, make sure to bring some extra webbing for the anchors.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kung Fu Theater : Enter The Dragon (5.11-)
By: greg t When: Mar 7, 2013

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Comments: This is such a great climb. Amazing position and exposure for a 2 pitch climb. Although the first few moves of pitch 2 are the hardest, I find the real heartbreaker being the awkward mantel at the top of pitch 1.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Unamed 5.10+ (5.10+)
By: greg t When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: The sketchy blocks are quiet sketchy looking indeed. They also happen to be right before the crux, making the gear a little lower on the climb than some may like. They can be passed with some finesse, but use your head and dont belay underneath the climb. Other than that, this is one of the best handcracks at the creek.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Finger Food (5.11)
By: greg t When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: is there any other guide book that gives you such precise gear beta? Is there any other climbing area that you can simply look at the climb, and get the all the gear beta on you're own? Probably not. It may as well be sport climbing that goes clean at C1. This climb is great though, hint: use the arete.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Puma (5.12-)
By: greg t When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: stupid fun. wish it was longer.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Johnny Cat (5.11+)
By: greg t When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: great route! was glad to just happen to have a set of stoppers for the start (sometimes sandy). Relativity easy climbing, but the fall would be ugly. the rest of the climb is great, and fairly tame until the feet disappear for 10ft before the anchors. For those lacking sausage fingers, learn how to stack fingers and gun to the anchors. big clean falls on solid gear, love the creek.


Location: International : Asia : Vietnam : Cat Ba Island : Ha Long Bay : ... : Screw Loose (5.10b/c)
By: greg t When: Aug 2, 2012

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Comments: One of my favorite climbs of all time! The name comes from the first ascentionists ( eric and matt of slo pony ) forgetting the wrench, climbing and wrapping off loose bolts. Was proud to be the 3rd ascent of this, after they went back to tighten the bolts. Tiger Beach is a great place to get kicked off of.. but I guess you had to be there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Wigglin' Worm (5.11)
By: greg t When: Mar 18, 2012

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Comments: climbed this in fall '11, great route. Got on it again ( march '12 ) and the blocks 10ft off the ground are SUPER loose. Be careful.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: greg t When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: I donít think that your opinion is too far off from how most climbers would feel about that section, but I just thought I would offer my own. Who knows, if it helps someone else to not hit the ground, I would consider that a good thing. At least I didnít try and hook it :)


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: greg t When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: just attempted this route, and I have no realistic explanation of why I am still here, unharmed. The "5.7 R" start to the second pitch is not cool. I found it to be more like 5.10 x dirty slab. ( keep in mind I can climb 5.12 cracks, but I'm probably the worst slab climber I know ) moving on, I traversed right and placed 2 mediocre-at-best cams in a flake so I would have some chance of not hitting the ground. I was 6 inches away from the first bolt, my foot slipped on the dirt, and I fell, bo... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Mean High Tide (5.11)
By: greg t When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: The Banana was my favorite part. All you need is an old pair of jeans, and a good sense of humor. ( a big bro and a long sling doesnt hurt though ) Popping out the top into the fist crack traverse is just good times.


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