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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kung Fu Theater : Enter The Dragon (5.11-)
By: greg t When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is such a great climb. Amazing position and exposure for a 2 pitch climb. Although the first few moves of pitch 2 are the hardest, I find the real heartbreaker being the awkward mantel at the top of pitch 1.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Unamed 5.10+ (5.10+)
By: greg t When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sketchy blocks are quiet sketchy looking indeed. They also happen to be right before the crux, making the gear a little lower on the climb than some may like. They can be passed with some finesse, but use your head and dont belay underneath the climb. Other than that, this is one of the best handcracks at the creek.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.11 Fingercrack (5.11)
By: greg t When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: is there any other guide book that gives you such precise gear beta? Is there any other climbing area that you can simply look at the climb, and get the all the gear beta on you're own? Probably not. It may as well be sport climbing that goes clean at C1. This climb is great though, hint: use the arete.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Puma (5.12-)
By: greg t When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: stupid fun. wish it was longer.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Johnny Cat (5.11+)
By: greg t When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: great route! was glad to just happen to have a set of stoppers for the start (sometimes sandy). Relativity easy climbing, but the fall would be ugly. the rest of the climb is great, and fairly tame until the feet disappear for 10ft before the anchors. For those lacking sausage fingers, learn how to stack fingers and gun to the anchors. big clean falls on solid gear, love the creek.
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Location: International : Asia : Vietnam : Cat Ba Island : Ha Long Bay : ... : Screw Loose (5.10b/c)
By: greg t When: Aug 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite climbs of all time! The name comes from the first ascentionists ( eric and matt of slo pony ) forgetting the wrench, climbing and wrapping off loose bolts. Was proud to be the 3rd ascent of this, after they went back to tighten the bolts. Tiger Beach is a great place to get kicked off of.. but I guess you had to be there.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Boot Hill (5.12b)
By: greg t When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an amazing route, dont let the sandly looking pod or the 12b rating scare you off, both were milder than expected. Pulling out the roof above the pod is just great, and also easier than it looks. Bring lots of .75s
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Wigglin' Worm (5.11)
By: greg t When: Mar 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: climbed this in fall '11, great route. Got on it again ( march '12 ) and the blocks 10ft off the ground are SUPER loose. Be careful.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: greg t When: Jul 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don’t think that your opinion is too far off from how most climbers would feel about that section, but I just thought I would offer my own. Who knows, if it helps someone else to not hit the ground, I would consider that a good thing. At least I didn’t try and hook it :)
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3)
By: greg t When: Jun 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: just attempted this route, and I have no realistic explanation of why I am still here, unharmed. The "5.7 R" start to the second pitch is not cool. I found it to be more like 5.10 x dirty slab. ( keep in mind I can climb 5.12 cracks, but I'm probably the worst slab climber I know ) moving on, I traversed right and placed 2 mediocre-at-best cams in a flake so I would have some chance of not hitting the ground. I was 6 inches away from the first bolt, my foot slipped on the dirt, and I fell, bo... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Mean High Tide (5.11)
By: greg t When: Jun 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Banana was my favorite part. All you need is an old pair of jeans, and a good sense of humor. ( a big bro and a long sling doesnt hurt though ) Popping out the top into the fist crack traverse is just good times.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: greg t When: May 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: left start is superb! dont bother lay-backing the top "crux" there are plenty of good stemming feet. One maybe two off-finger jams then the rest is $$.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : The Shipyard
By: greg t When: May 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: no worries as long as no one got hurt. I thought the 'new' route is way more fun anyways. pulling the mantle to the two monopods I thought was the best part of the climb.
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