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I wonder why they named this route after an enema syringe of all things..?


Member Since: Aug 5, 2007
Last Visit: Sep 10, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 86 | Routes | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 40 | Stars 11 | Ratings 13

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Surprising Slab (5.8)
By: Greg Speer When: Jun 25, 2011

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Comments: I thought this route was a lot of fun. This and the adjacent Hare Balls and Dan-D-Line all have variations you can try making it a good place to easily get in a bunch of enjoyable pitches in a short period of time especially if you just want a laid back day. Good area to practice things. Would be perfect for someone wanting to transition from the gym to climbing outside.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : Right Center (5.7 PG13)
By: Greg Speer When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: Ditto on the need for a mid route bolted belay station. We managed a less than optimal belay there. Otherwise, a very enjoyable climb.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Emergency Entrance (5.7)
By: Greg Speer When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: It appears that MP has "Emergency Entrance" and "I.V. League" reversed. According to Hubbel's and Gillette's guidebooks I.V. League is the offwidth to the left of Cyberchondrial Paranoia and Emergency Entrance is the dihedral/flake to the right of Panic in the Grey Room. MP has it backwards.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Upper Infirmary Slabs : IV League (5.7)
By: Greg Speer When: Jun 2, 2010

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Comments: It appears that MP has "Emergency Entrance" and "I.V. League" reversed. According to Hubbel's and Gillett's guidebooks, I.V. League is the offwidth to the left of Cyberchondrial Paranoia and Emergency Entrance is the dihedral/flake to the right of Panic in the Grey Room. MP has it backwards.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Scout Rock : Tonto (5.9+)
By: Greg Speer When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: This is a very neat, short climb. I tried it on lead first but couldn't solve the crux. Then as I watched my partner Debbie enter the crux, it became obvious that laying back on the little mini arete in the slot was the key. I suggested this to Deb and she sent although probably more due to her ability and persistence than my advice. I then did on toprope. The crux is a cool little offwidth. Left side in. A little heel-toe action comes in handy too.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock
By: Greg Speer When: Apr 10, 2010

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Comments: Any trad routes at Arthur's?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : East Face/4th Pinnacle (5.5 R)
By: Greg Speer When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: If one calls the downclimb a 5.0, then in my opinion this is a huge sandbag. "Exciting" is putting it mildly. I would venture to say that if one were to climb up the downclimb it would be 5.4, 5.3 at the least. There is serious fall risk (as in death) on this downclimb especially if one had to hurry due inclement weather or in darkness. It is a dangerous disservice to other, especially less experienced, climbers to indicate otherwise. It would be easy for the less experienced to find themselv... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: Greg Speer When: Oct 8, 2009

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Comments: For the second pitch we went right around the block from the first belay for some reason. This is a bit of a grovel up an easy chimney. Still ended up at the second belay spot below the devious P3 crux roof problem. I do feel that the P1 and P3 cruxes are 5.8.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : Outer Notch (5.6)
By: Greg Speer When: Aug 28, 2009

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Comments: The dihedral/hand crack up top is the crux and a bit sustained. Wide stemming helps. I could have used a half dozen #3 & 4 Camalots for that section. Nice belay on top with horizontal crack to build anchor. Save three smaller cams (0.4, 0.5, 0.75) for this. Also could substitute with smaller tri-cams.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Mother 1 (5.7+)
By: Greg Speer When: Aug 28, 2009

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Comments: My first Vedauwoo off-width. I followed Rob who provided a great tutorial as he led. Without that I would probably still be on the route. Turned out I actually enjoyed it although I did work my ass off. I was pleasantly surprised to find that arm bars, chicken wings plus heel-toes actually work. Ditto on left side in.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock : Shag (5.7)
By: Greg Speer When: May 19, 2009

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Comments: Nice climb. Really had no problems with flakey or loose stuff.