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Greenhorn - Solar Collector Wall - RRG, KY


Member Since: Apr 29, 2009
Last Visit: Jan 16, 2014
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Point Rank: # 886
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All (372) | Routes (37) | Areas (8) | Photos (22) | Comments (66) | Posts (48) | Stars (116) | Ratings (75)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Azure Mountain : Main Face : Tangled up in Azure (5.8 PG13)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Is this the open book/flake to the left of the Pearl Headwall? The route description sounds very similar. You skirt the top of the apron to the left end near the vegetated terrance and the open book rises above with a small overlap at the bottom? If so this is Tangled up in Azure which was put up by Jay Kullman and Sarah Councell sometimes in mid to early 2000s.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Quebec : Lanaudiere : ... : Doigt dans le nez (5.12-)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: I've seen this described as being 11a. I thought it was significantly harder than 11a. I ended up having to aid the crack and I still couldn't get it on top-rope. You can bail right into the right-facing corner 5' to the right (significantly easier) if you need to bail and aren't able to french free it. If this was cleaned up it might be easier, but in it's current state I don't think it is reasonable to call it 11a. I'd love for someone to tell me I'm just not good at this size crack and that i... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Overture (5.10a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Pitches 1 & 2 of Flashdance make for a really good approach to the Overture ramp. This provides a more technical/harder approach for those looking for a fuller climbing experience. I highly recommend it as the way to approach pitch 3 of Overture. Additionally at the end of the ramp I find it's best to build the belay below the dinner table ledge as it sets you up better to belay the leader for the last pitch.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Arsenal : Picador (5.11b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Mar 25, 2013

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Comments: Ditto


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Silver Lake : C Chimney Cliff : Tears of Gaia (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: The first pitch is still cleaning up with respect to friable holds. Wear a helmet! The two times I've climbed it I have broken a hold and almost come off as a result. Where the rock is most suspect it's well bolted and the falls are good so just get on it and hope for the best. Do avoid the pillar of choss at about 2/3 height though. This is a great climb with two equally good but different pitches.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire : Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Bo... (5.9)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 16, 2012

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Comments: P1 move past some suspect flakes and a crack to the base of the chimney (plentiful solid gear at the mouth of the chimney and 5.7ish moves with minimal involvement in the chimney).

P2 move up and through the trees through easy terrain to a big belay ledge with two opposing corners, easily traverse left briefly around the small buttress of rock that forms the right-facing corner. This brings you to a left-facing corner/flake system that forms the lower NW corner. There is an obvious flake/horn a... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: The approach is considered easy because in the talus it's open and easy going compared to some of the more "adventurous" approaches in the Adirondacks. At least it's not oppressive spruce.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Snowy Mt : Buckwheat (5.9- A0)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: A single 70m rope easily makes it to the belay ledge


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Snowy Mt : Redneck on a Rope (5.10+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Since this was mentioned on the parent page I will cover it. A 4" piece allows you to perfectly protect what is probably the hardest section of the OW pillar (5.8). A 4.5-5" piece would give you more placement options and probably the ability to bump the piece. If you are comfortable at the grade of this route, you should be fine with the 4" piece but I offer the info all the same.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Bloody Mary (5.9+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: To refine the gear recommendations...linking P1 and P2 I found stoppers plus a single rack from micro cams to a #3 with doubles in .5-2 allowed me to sew the climb up (lots of slings/draws obviously). A single three worked fine, much to my amusement as I brought two 3s and a 3.5 and had some extra weight at the P2 belay. If you belay at the P1 ledge, an extra 3 and a 3.5 or so would be helpful.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Creature Wall : Christine (5.10a/b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: I left cord and rap rings at the first cedar tree at the top of the final crack. I didn't really see why this climb should not have its own rap anchor, given that most of the other quality lines have their own.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : North Face of Pitchoff : Moss Ghyl (WI3-4)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: Gunkiemike, I think he means the second step after the snowfield. That section is pretty wide.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Desperado (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Jim,
Thanks, you are right. I amended that in my comment. I must have had a brain fart when I wrote that.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Desperado (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: Interesting climb. One of those "one way makes it feel 10-, every other way makes it feel way harder" type of climbs. Getting to the first bolt is unnerving in my mind, you are a ways above the second piton which doesn't look inspiring. The clip at the second bolt shouldn't be hard unless you are panicking trying to clip it out of the intended stance.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface : The Diagonal (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 28, 2011

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Comments: Tparis,
Which anchors are you talking about? Where was the cord and single rap ring? That is not the anchor I setup. It sounds like you're talking about the end of the Diagonal ramp before the 4th class move right to the first 5.8 pitch, am I mistaken?

The anchor I was referring to is the fixed anchor at the base of the Diagonal ramp. From my memory, there was a bunch of tat on a natural anchor there and the Lawyer/Haas topo shows a fixed anchor there. I left 12 feet of blue and pink cord with ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wallface : The Diagonal (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 23, 2011

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Comments: Anyone know what happened to the fixed anchor at the top of pitch 2? That big pillar used to be slung with a bunch of material but today nothing. We left cord and rings so we could rap down from No Man's a Pilot...interested to know the story on this.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Hurricane Crag : Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara (5.7+ PG13)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: It's possible to make solid gear anchors at P1 and P2, it's just not straight-forward. That said, and as I have comment previously...link P2 and P3, you will be happier. Bring doubles if in doubt.
As well, a flake on the forth pitch finally detached this past winter. Be aware as your work left above the bolted belay that there is some loose debris.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Mt. Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 15, 2011

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Comments: Jaysen,

The Trap Dike(winter)

Regarding avalanche risk. Early and late season when it's not packed with snow are best. Consequently, that's when the climbing is best because you actually get to climb ice and not just slog through snow. That said, early and late season doesn't eliminate avalanche risk. It all depends on a myriad of factors.

There are times where a weather event will create a blanket "no go" for any avalanche terrain (or anything subject to the runout from that terrain). Rock and River... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Bandito (5.10+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 12, 2011

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Comments: Jim, that makes sense. I think I glossed over the opening moves in my memory. I remember that being a bit "in your face" now that you mention it. I knew I was probably not remembering something. Thanks for the reminder and all your hard work over the years.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Hesitation (5.8 R)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Jaysen,
From my memory, you can equalize some good gear in a horizontal down and left of the fixed gear at the top of the first pitch. I remember it being a little creative, but confidence inspiring.

Also, see the comments on the Upper Washbowl Cliff page regarding descent information. The issues with the Partition/Mastercharge rappel are really not necessary given the ability to walk off or the climber's right rappel, especially in light of recent events.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Bandito (5.10+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: Just to note, Lawyer/Haas have it rated as 10d PG. I'm not certain why the PG. The gear is a bit tricky in spots, but I didn't really feel like I couldn't protect the climb at any point. However, at the hardest parts I was just pushing through, so maybe the gear isn't good there. I felt the distance between pieces was reasonable for G though. But feel to comment/correct.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Phase III (5.9+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: A rack from .3-#1 C4 size plus double BD 3s and a BD 3.5 worked pretty well for me on this. The second roof and the corner leading up to it is really a 3.5 size crack. 3 is just a little wide and I think a 4 would be hard to fit in. Double 3.5 would have been ideal.

I feel like it's more a wide-hands to fist crack at the crux than off-width?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Certified Raw (5.10)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 6, 2011

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Comments: From my memory, this route is pretty sustained. I agree that it's a safe romp, but in my opinion for leaders looking to try a sustained technical 5.10 climb.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jun 30, 2011

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Comments: The tree is starting to look not so awesome. It's the end of June and it's devoid of any greenness.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Sunburst Arete (5.8 PG13)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jun 20, 2011

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Comments: I agree with Chris. 1/3 of the way up is the mental crux; a few inobvious moves and protected by "okay" micro stoppers/micro cams. The arete is stellar positioning and exposure. P2 is as 5.8 as you can get before being 5.9-. See the comment section for Paralysis for info on how to link up with the upper pitches (P4-5) to make this into an adventurous 4-pitch route that tops out.


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