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The route in it's entirety.


Member Since: Oct 3, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Greg G


Point Rank: # 1,307
Total Points: 440
Last Year: 87
Last 30 Days: 2
26 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Greg G been climbing?










Contributions


All (1532) | Routes (13) | Areas (1) | Photos (25) | Comments (169) | Posts (579) | Stars (619) | Ratings (126)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (5.11 C1)
By: Greg G When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: Conversely if you want to french free or fraid through the tough free sections this climb is an absolute riot, and goes way faster than something like moonlight or lunar X. Highly recommend not using aiders or jugs until the last pitch off toquerville tower.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (5.11 C1) : Photo
By: Greg G When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: yea way further left. there's a single bolt at the bottom of the plated slab with the face crack immediately above some 20ft higher.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Pirate Treasure (5.10+)
By: Greg G When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: Bryan did you guys take it to the rim? I assume you did.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Spaceshot (5.7 C2) : Photo
By: Greg G When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: The free move there is great! Probably no harder than 5.5 as you hand traverse that rail then throw a leg in the wideness.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: Greg G When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: I'm guessing those eluding to a bivy at the block slept in a portaledge as the rocker block is only 5 ft x 3 ft. The best natural bivy low on the route is the ledge before the bolt ladder.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Voodoo Child (5.11+) : Photo
By: Greg G When: Jan 31, 2014

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Comments: Same topo I have from Jay Smith. legit


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Chica Bonita Wall : The Spice of Life (5.10b)
By: Greg G When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: I thought this thing was grade A quality bitching awesomeness. Unique route!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3) : Photo
By: Greg G When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: great free climbing on this route!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Unknown 10- (5.10)
By: Greg G When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Bloom 2nd edition claims bad anchor. It now sports 2 star drives equalized with a 1/2 in wedge bolt with a SS Metolius hanger. Bring a new #5 camalot.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : On the Waterfront (5.12a)
By: Greg G When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: Inverts aren't mandatory for this thing. We had fist jams at the bottom. But if you want to be fancy or have small hands I guess you can go upside down.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Weed B Gone (5.11c/d)
By: Greg G When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: Single rack from blue tcu to #1 camalot, a few stoppers in the small (but not tiny) to mid range, 12(ish) draws, and a 70m cord. This'll get you up/down weed killer and weed be gone comfortably.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Broadloaves - North : Tide Country (5.10a)
By: Greg G When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: If you're looking to have a day full of 5.10's this one should be on the list!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Talkin' Smack (5.10d)
By: Greg G When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: A few suspect holds in the crux beneath bolt 2. Be careful.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Look Who's Talking (5.8)
By: Greg G When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Save a .75 for the top anchor. Walk off is to the right (skiers left) I believe.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Local Boys Do Good (5.11a PG13)
By: Greg G When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: If you're looking to simply climb the first pitch the crux is just getting to the first bolt. After you've gotten to the two nubs 8ft up the remaining is in the low 10 grade.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Center Thumb (5.9+) : Photo
By: Greg G When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Move the top pitch line over 2 crack systems to the right on the green face. Finishing on the splitter hand/finger crack to the summit is the way.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Split Beaver (5.10b)
By: Greg G When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: A 4.5 Camalot works very well for the top section. Probably better than a #5, but I can't say as I didn't use one.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Shadow of the Blade (5.10d PG13)
By: Greg G When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: This is the best route on the Castle. Two awesome 5.10 bolt pitches to a 5.9 hand crack, and that's only half the route!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Taivallista (5.11c)
By: Greg G When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route that is getting cleaned up. We pulled off a few small blocks on the route, and cleaned a few sections of cracks on the way up.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : The Great Escape (5.9+)
By: Greg G When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: belay 1 uses finger sized gear. belay 2 uses #3 camalots or slinging the large horn with a 48" runner. belay 3 slings the tree at the top. Highly recommend linking the last 2 pitches as the final is a walk across gravel to a 20 ft dihedral.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Eldorado
By: Greg G When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Nice work Dono! Let's see some pics :) and ya...safety first!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Animal Cracker (5.10a)
By: Greg G When: Jun 23, 2013

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Comments: If interested in topped out this climb I recommend going to climbers right off the p1 belay into the crack labeled as "Unknown 10?" in the guide book. It provides a fun 5.6 hand crack to the top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Superior / Monte Cristo : The Cottonwood Traverse (5.6)
By: Greg G When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: I counted 14 Summits, and unique ridge line high points on this thing yesterday. A fantastic way to spend a day in the mountains!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : Bachar Cracker (V4)
By: Greg G When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Tom Randall climbing it in flip flops - >



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Gully of Higher Education : McKinley's Crack (5.6)
By: Greg G When: May 18, 2013

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Comments: Much shorter than the 60ft advertised here. Maybe more like 30-40ft.


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