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Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...


Member Since: Apr 10, 2006
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Greg Barnes
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Point Rank: # 409
Total Points: 1,568
Last Year: 103
Last 30 Days: 34
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Greg Barnes been climbing?










Contributions


All 826 | Routes 81 | Areas 19 | Photos 77 | Page Improvements | Comments 88 | Posts 405 | Stars 121 | Ratings 35
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Lazy Squaw Spire : Lazy Squaw Spire (5.9-)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: Just a note - if you rap directly down the route on the southwest side, it's a 95' rap. Since a 60m is a "short" rope these days, it won't affect many people!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Grampa's Day Out (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Dangerous for a 5.9 leader, easy to deck on the sharp ledge if you blow the crux moves getting past the first bolt. Also it's solid 5.10 if you try to go straight to the second bolt instead of staying right (and even staying right is very tough 5.9). I wouldn't be surprised if a hold or two broke off at some point. Short leaders may need an extendo draw to clip the first bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: We replaced the worn links at the anchor last weekend with fat, stainless links & rings provided by the ASCA.

Please donate! The ASCA is a 501(c)3 organization. safeclimbing.org.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Triple Play (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: This felt more than contrived - it was just silly. How far do you force a move before stepping back left? I led the stemming corner and clipped all the bolts, on toprope climbing anything other than that felt contrived. Almost like this "route" shouldn't even be in the database, just call it variations on the retrobolted stemming corner.

Still it's nice to be able to do the corner with just 4 draws...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Mountain Rose (5.10a PG13)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: The bolt was a rusty 3/8" Lok-bolt design (e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php ) with the threads not quite fully engaged on the nut (perhaps someone had replaced the original thinner hanger with the Metolius hanger that was on it). It turned out the bolt was bent as well. Sketchy! This design of bolt is very weak in the 3/8" size even when new.

The bolt was provided by the ASCA, please donate and help replace old bolts! safeclimbing.org


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : War Drums (5.9 PG13)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: All 3 bolts were replaced today 8/1/15, and we added a two bolt anchor to the left of the dying tree & removed all the tat off the tree (just a note - it's dying due to running out of dirt, it has nothing to do with climbers). The first two bolts were rusty 3/8" sleeve bolts (of the Lok-bolt design, e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php - a very weak bolt even when new), and the third was a 1/4" buttonhead.

Hardware for the bolt replacement was provided by the ASCA, please support bolt ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Timeless aka New Route Righ... (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Nick. This has very delicate smeary stemming, Joshua Tree 5.10b or even c, only a few moves but a surprise if you're expecting 5.9-ish climbing. Fun!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire
By: Greg Barnes When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: Now closed to all climbing until the new peregrine closure is lifted:

nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/cli...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Center : Forsaken (5.10d)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Oh yeah, in case any hard-core folks are wondering, we replaced all bolts on White Line Fever…not that there are many. I also re-seated all pitons - there are more than shown in the topo - but some are kind of sketchy even re-seated. And a last tip for White Line Fever - there's a 2-piton "anchor" partway up the last steep pitch (5.9), this is just pro before the runout, the bolted belay is hidden under the big roof up top.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right : Deflector (5.9 R)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: This route was mostly done in 2010, finished in 2012, but Elmar & I returned yesterday to add/move a few bolts and install the doubled pro bolt rap station on the final pitch (which allows rapping with a single 70m).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Mountain Light Wall : El Duderino (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: Yesterday we upgraded the first two and the last bolts, all of which were previously 1/4".


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Mountain Light Wall : Snowblind (5.8)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: Yesterday we added a third pro bolt to the slab, and upgraded the second bolt to 3/8" (1/4" originally). We'd intended to add that 3rd bolt for years, just hadn't had the chance!


Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Greg Barnes When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: "Red Rock"??? Never heard of it. I have literally never heard a climber call Red Rocks "Red Rock."

Admins - you really should switch everything to Red Rocks - "Red Rock" as a title is just embarrassing Mountain Project!

In case people disagree…I present Exhibit A:

Red Rocks guides.
Red Rocks guides.



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Mental Block (5.10c)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: Wylie, just FYI on that p2 bolt, I replaced the 1/4" bolt in 1999 by expanding the original hole.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Dome : North Wall : Seconds to Darkness (5.8)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Years ago Don Reid asked me to add an anchor bolt to back up the sling, but we never got around to it. Definitely double-check the slings!


Location: CO : Donate to the ASCA through ...
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Just a minor correction - Planet Granite is matching donations through August 15th!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Center : Excellent Smithers (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: "The first acentionists should have gone straight up to the last stance at the current belay on pitch 4 instead of wandering out to the left..just me and my partner's opinion."

That's funny...because I did go straight up! Turns out there's a hard friction bulge that way, so I traversed left to the obvious weakness and up that (back right) to the belay ledge. Then we moved the line to where it's left-trending to get to the easy way through the bulge (and we added a bunch of bolts).

Definitely n... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: Greg Barnes When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: It's a bummer that someone felt it was necessary to put a bolt on the P6 offwidth. Does anyone know what the deal with it is? Was it a historical bolt that was replaced or someone just too lazy to bring a 5" piece?
I replaced it - it was an old original 1/4" with Leeper. We (Jack Hoeflich and I) considered just chopping it, but not everyone had big cams at that point. We did debate about it. We decided the opposite on the single remaining 1/4" bolt along the final pitch of the Good Boo... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Stemulant (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: Pitch length is 120', not 80'. Some 70m ropes are not quite long enough, but easy to swing a bit left - tie knot in end of rope!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome Area : Dark Side Dome : Voice of the Crags (5.10b)
By: Greg Barnes When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: Pay attention when trying to find the last bolt, it's very easy to miss.

By the way, the 4-bolt project to the right is an open project. I popped a hook (luckily just took a chunk out of my helmet since I was looking down), then later blew a finger tendon. Figured that enough was enough...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : Five Ten, You Wuss (5.10c)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: What did you think on the rating?

The reason I ask is that last year someone told me that they'd broken a key knob up high and found it to be 5.11 with the knob missing.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Edgeumacated (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 4, 2012

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Comments: Sandbaggers! We found a couple distinct sections (after the 3rd bolt and after the 8th bolt) which would be solid 10a even without the sustained climbing. The moves to the right and above the 8th bolt - which is at the lip of a bulge/rooflet - definitely take the leader into a "really-don't-want-to-fall" zone. A bit of lichen here and there but generally clean. Excellent, sustained climb!

First 4th class pitch is more like 50 feet. We didn't spot the first bolt and set the belay to the right of... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome
By: Greg Barnes When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: Currently there is a peregrine closure of the area around the Bachar-Yerian ledge, including all the popular BY ledge sport routes.

nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/cli...

Here's the sign at the parking area:

Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12



Location: ID : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar : Crack Class (5.10a R)
By: Greg Barnes When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: The 2nd pitch step-across and slab traverse to the crack are X rated in my opinion - a fall would likely see the rope simply fall down the offwidth and you'd deck into the rock/slab somewhere way down there (assuming the rope didn't cut on something deep in the offwidth).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Air Swedin (5.13 R)
By: Greg Barnes When: Apr 19, 2012

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Comments: The FA was by Pat Savageau (his last name is often misspelled).


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