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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: Greg Barnes When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a bummer that someone felt it was necessary to put a bolt on the P6 offwidth. Does anyone know what the deal with it is? Was it a historical bolt that was replaced or someone just too lazy to bring a 5" piece?
I replaced it - it was an old original 1/4" with Leeper. We (Jack Hoeflich and I) considered just chopping it, but not everyone had big cams at that point. We did debate about it. We decided the opposite on the single remaining 1/4" bolt along the final pitch of the Good Boo... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Stemulant (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch length is 120', not 80'. Some 70m ropes are not quite long enough, but easy to swing a bit left - tie knot in end of rope!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dark Side Dome : Voice of the Crags (5.10b)
By: Greg Barnes When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pay attention when trying to find the last bolt, it's very easy to miss.
By the way, the 4-bolt project to the right is an open project. I popped a hook (luckily just took a chunk out of my helmet since I was looking down), then later blew a finger tendon. Figured that enough was enough...
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : Five Ten, You Wuss (5.10c)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What did you think on the rating?
The reason I ask is that last year someone told me that they'd broken a key knob up high and found it to be 5.11 with the knob missing.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Edgeumacated (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sandbaggers! We found a couple distinct sections (after the 3rd bolt and after the 8th bolt) which would be solid 10a even without the sustained climbing. The moves to the right and above the 8th bolt - which is at the lip of a bulge/rooflet - definitely take the leader into a "really-don't-want-to-fall" zone. A bit of lichen here and there but generally clean. Excellent, sustained climb!
First 4th class pitch is more like 50 feet. We didn't spot the first bolt and set the belay to the right of... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome
By: Greg Barnes When: Jun 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Currently there is a peregrine closure of the area around the Bachar-Yerian ledge, including all the popular BY ledge sport routes.
www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
Here's the sign at the parking area:
| Medlicott peregrine closure sign, 6/7/12
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Jun 10, 2012
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar : Crack Class (5.10a R)
By: Greg Barnes When: May 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 2nd pitch step-across and slab traverse to the crack are X rated in my opinion - a fall would likely see the rope simply fall down the offwidth and you'd deck into the rock/slab somewhere way down there (assuming the rope didn't cut on something deep in the offwidth).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Air Swedin (5.13 R)
By: Greg Barnes When: Apr 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FA was by Pat Savageau (his last name is often misspelled).
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : New Diversions : Chicken Pie (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Feb 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The friction is really good on Chicken Pie, and I always thought it was a "soft" 5.9, even considered rating it 5.8 in the guide. I've never heard of anyone considering it 5.10a (until seeing this description). Certainly the fist/flake start of New Diversions/New Deviations is harder and it's rated 5.8 (which is a sandbag in my opinion).
Just pointing out a different viewpoint from the description...
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Pterodactyl Terrace, Left (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Dec 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris McNamara replaced the anchor around 1999 or so.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Blues Riff (5.11b/c)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Warning: there is a bolted anchor on the top of the cliff about 50' right of the finish of Blues Riff and Phobos. This anchor has NO ANCHORS BELOW within reach of two 60m ropes - do NOT use!
Thanks to Katrina Managan and partners for the warning!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Warning: there is a bolted anchor on the top of the cliff about 50' right of the finish of Blues Riff and Phobos. This anchor has NO ANCHORS BELOW within reach of two 60m ropes - do NOT use!
Thanks to Katrina Managan and partners for the warning!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dark Side Dome : Pebble Beach (5.9 R)
By: Greg Barnes When: Sep 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool, looks like John Durr found an old unreported route!
Grant Hiskes and friends started adding a bolt to the first pitch belay on Pebble Beach, but did not finish adding the bolt, so there is a partially drilled bolt hole at the belay (at least that's what Grant told me).
Pebble Beach is incorrectly sorted - it is between Dark Side of the Force and The Imperial March.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : John Henry (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually all bolts on this except one at the first belay are the original ones. Someone stole a nut and hanger from the first belay, and since it was a Fixe metric nut (I didn't have an extra one with me), I had to drill one new bolt at the first anchor. So only one bolt at the first belay is ASCA.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Gift of the Wind Gods (5.10)
By: Greg Barnes When: Apr 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone climbs this route and brings a digital camera, could you take a few close-up shots of the 1/4" bolts, and also note exactly how many there are? We've been asked to replace this if possible, and it's a big project that would benefit from details.
Also opinions on exactly which bolts would be best to replace in case rebolters could only get 5-8 or so in one day. If anyone gets these sorts of details, post here and/or email me if you get a chance!
Thanks - Greg Barnes greg@safeclimbin... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Bunny Slopes : Hit or Miss (5.7)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the 5.7+ side of things, particularly because the harder slab moves are well above the bolts, and there is a bit of slightly crumbly rock. Not as well protected at the cruxes as most other Bunny Slopes routes - not that any are tightly protected (particularly by modern sport climbing standards...but 4 bolts in 160 feet shouldn't give anyone any trouble figuring that out!).
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Bunny Slopes : Black Uhuru (5.6)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The cam placement on the first pitch (first piece off the ground, protecting the slick crux) is a shallow 1" cam, not 2".
You can do a 3rd pitch by climbing up to some holes (tri-cams would work if you have any, and there is a sneaky but bomber #1 camalot placement), then slab climbing left and up a ramp to the top anchor of Hit or Miss. If you continue straight up the streak, it gets easy, but there is no anchor of any sort. The Reid/Falkenstein guide shows rap anchors down Walkman, but ... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon
By: Greg Barnes When: Sep 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a very minor note - it's actually Olmsted Canyon, not Olmstead. The 1986 Reid/Falkenstein guide had that right, but every edition since has had most mentions spelled with an a (but always at least one spelled correctly).
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederick_Law_Olmsted
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cottage Domes : East Cottage Dome : Comfortably Numb (5.10c R)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jan 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing hasn't been runout for a long, long time - an anchor was added in the '90s (just above where the angle gets lower, so above the 4th bolt), and you can lower off with a 50m rope (not that anyone uses 50m ropes anymore).
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Waverly Wafer (5.10+)
By: Greg Barnes When: Dec 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first 10c in the Valley - should have gotten on an easy one like Lunatic Fringe!
This route was the first time I can remember blowing a piece of pro - a small hex placed like a stopper on a micro-feature (crack was way too parallel to even think it should hold). And I started climbing mid-'90s, the hex was just because my small rack of cams included a single correct size piece above the flare (and no piece for the flare of course, the "big" cam was hand-size).
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Feudal Beerlords (5.10)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This went back and forth between 10d and 10c in previous Gorge guides. I go with 10d - only a few moves, but off balance and powerful. Easier for big fingers.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Meat Grinder (5.10b) : Photo
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah Rob, we're horrible about it. We took all sorts of great photos on Matthes Crest, and my brother's wearing something like what he did in this shot, and I'm wearing a light grey/green shirt that blends in to the rock perfectly. We're so well camouflaged that we have trouble spotting ourselves in our own pictures!
I don't even have photoshop though...
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome East End : Super Chicken (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: John is right, take the left-most line at the start and it's good quality and fun.
The 3rd pitch is awesome - for about 80 or 100 feet. Then it gets sucky, thin slab with crumbly edges, and the belay is still a ways above you (40' or so). No pro, you can't even tie off a single knob, and since you've gone a bit right, you're looking at falling over the edge of the main blunt arete. Yikes!
Above that are another few pitches, with short bits of steep crack, runout knobs, face, etc. All a bit cru... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dark Side Dome : Death Star Rides Again (5.7+ R)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called Death Star Rides Again and was done around 2005 or 2006 by Bryan Law & George Ridgley, and rated 5.6 R (I thought 5.7).
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dark Side Dome : Megacrystic (5.6)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route description is for a newer route called Megacrystic, Dark Side of the Force is to the right with a higher first bolt (about the level of the second bolt on Megacrystic) and requires some gear. You can traverse from Dark Side of the Force to this route for the anchor.
I don't have my notes, but the FA was around 2005 or 2006 by Bryan Law & George Ridgley.
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