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Hiking around Lumpy


Member Since: Dec 19, 2001
Last Visit: Feb 25, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,372
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 407 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 29 | Page Improvments | Comments 52 | Posts 71 | Stars 195 | Ratings 58
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : Rest in Peace (5.11c)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: My partner broke a key hold on this in 2011, which probably makes the initial crux quite a bit harder.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : Uphill Cracks (5.7)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: This route presents a nice, moderate way to get to the top of the Thumb.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : Thumb Up My Arse (5.10+)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: Rock quality on this one is a bit questionable.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : Zig Arete (5.10a)
By: goatboywonder When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Super fun route. Getting to the last bolt will feel like the crux on your first go because the moves are devious with the previous bolt below your feet. After you get the beta, it is cruiser.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : Confines of Power (5.11d)
By: goatboywonder When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: With some fancy tricks, you can do the crux reach without a dyno (well, assuming you are 6' tall). This would be really tough for short people. I broke off a rock down low near the second bolt, so be careful down there. If the rock on the first 15 feet was a bit better, I would give this 4 stars.

Also, it is well-protected, so don't be afraid to give it a burn if it is at your limit.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Unleash The Lions (5.7)
By: goatboywonder When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: Fun route! Pitch 2 was pretty cool, but check your holds before yarding too hard. Too bad the walk off sucks so badly. I would be willing to install a bolted rap anchor at the top if I can get a blessing from the FAs.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Lower Infirmary Slabs : Mentally Infirm (5.10a)
By: goatboywonder When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: Pretty fun little route. The crux was desperate for me, but you have a bolt right there. I barely managed it by going left and using a high undercling. Short people may want a stick clip for the first bolt. Definitely recommend a 1" cam for the roof.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : No More War (5.10a)
By: goatboywonder When: Jan 27, 2012

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Comments: You can get down with a single 60m if you angle to climber's right and aim for a juniper growing in a dihedral. You will run out of rope right at the tree and have to do an easy, 8 foot downclimb.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Rambo Santa (5.7)
By: goatboywonder When: Jan 27, 2012

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Comments: A singe 70m will just barely get you down.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock : Summer Breeze (5.7)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: I agree that the short steep crack right above the tree seemed pretty stiff for a 5.7, but it is short and protects well.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock : Hand Over Hand (5.7)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 13, 2011

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Comments: This is a great route all around. I am not sure what we did differently, but the second pitch was pretty rad. From the belay, move just left and then reach up over the roof to find bomber gear and a sweet crack. One 5.8 move and you get a sweet jug to pull over the roof like a rock star. Fantastic. Place some gear and then choose your own adventure through the slabs above.

EDIT: I just noticed that the description above doesn't really jive with Gillett's topo, so my description may be somewhat ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Camel Toe (5.9+)
By: goatboywonder When: Jun 3, 2011

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Comments: On pitch 6, you can pull a sweet, "rock star" roof. After moving left off the belay, head up. After about 30 feet, you will see a clean 4 foot roof looming above you. Reach up, find the jugs, throw out a heel hook, and rock up! Probably 5.10+ or so.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Camel Toe (5.9+)
By: goatboywonder When: Jun 3, 2011

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Comments: Great route! I did not find the bolts of the first pitch to be lame at all. Granted, the 5.7 climbing is getting to the first bolt, but I found a 5.6 move here and there on friable rock. If this pitch had no bolts, you would be looking a 50 foot ground fall before you got any gear.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Campground (5.7+)
By: goatboywonder When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: If you don't have large gear, you can avoid the upper chimney on the first pitch by zig-zagging out left.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Campground (5.7+)
By: goatboywonder When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: We did a pretty cool alternate second pitch on this. Instead of heading up we headed out climber's left, following small roof that angles up and left. Your feet are just at the lip of another lower roof, giving the traverse a pretty airy feel. After about 50 feet of traversing, you run into the Fender Gully. Instead of thrasing up that, look for a thin, right-angling crack that that gives you access to the slab above you. Strike out onto the slab. I was able to protect it with a slung flake (us... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Alexander's Chimney (5.5)
By: goatboywonder When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: Can this be rapped with a single 70m?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Ironsides : Void Where Prohibited (5.11a PG13)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: As of 7/25/10 the bolts are all solid.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Nuclear Polka (5.10a)
By: goatboywonder When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Sweet route. I did not find solid gear until I hit the dihedral with the thin crack. I think the lower section may deserve a PG13 where you have to make that committing move to the diagonal running up to the dihedral. I managed to get in a small wire and a brassie but I did not have much confidence they would keep me off the ledge below. Up top, I did not see the slung horn but did get to the new bolted anchor off to the right. From here, it is about 29m to the base of Monkey Lust and the new ro... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: goatboywonder When: Mar 26, 2010

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Comments: I have not climbed Kor's so I cannot compare it to Mainliner, but I can tell you that the pro on Mainliner is really good making it an ideal route if it is close to your limit. It would be hard to escape from, though.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Old Bolt Route (5.8- PG13)
By: goatboywonder When: Mar 22, 2010

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Comments: Pretty sweet route. The gear can be a bit tricky and spaced out though. Definitely have your head on. I found 3 bolts and the last one seems to have been replaced because it is solid now.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Salud (5.8)
By: goatboywonder When: Jan 14, 2010

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Comments: I thought this route was pretty fun. The bolts are well spaced but placed just where you need them. There is a pretty substantial runout when you start to angle right after the last bolt but it is on easy terrain. The last move to gain the crack definitely got may attention because the crack was wet. Bring a couple small cams and (of course!) the pink tricam was useful.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : Photo
By: goatboywonder When: Nov 24, 2009

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Comments: Oh, I should mention this is at the top of the chimneny pitch, just below the belay ledge.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: goatboywonder When: Nov 24, 2009

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Comments: There is a pretty nasty death block at the top of the chimney pitch on the climbers left. It looks like a perfect flake to throw a runner over to protect the last move onto the belay ledge (I did it the first time). However, upon closer inspection you are able to wiggle the whole thing like a loose tooth. Be careful with it! If it goes, it will probably tumble down the chimney right onto the belay. I chalked a giant X on it. I am also going to add a pic of the block in the gallery with Brent hap... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Organ Pipes (5.6)
By: goatboywonder When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: A quick(er) way back to the base is to rap off the top of Conads. If you are not familiar with where the top of Conads is, then it may be tough to find. Essentially you want to get on the west side of the little ridge you topped out on (cross over to the climbers left). You will see a steep ramp with a gaping, flaring crack running away from you (with your back is to the owls). This crack should remind you of the first pitch of Organ Pipes, but less steep. Head down that crack and you will find ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : La Chaim (5.7 R)
By: goatboywonder When: Nov 4, 2009

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Comments: Real nice climb. Quite runout in spots but manageable. The moves into the final crack on the first pitch really got my attention. Kind of a funky mantle waaay above your last piece of gear.


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