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Member Since: Jan 7, 2010
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Glen Charnoski

Glen Charnoski
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Point Rank: # 290
Total Points: 2,031
Last Year: 141
Last 30 Days: 42
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Glen Charnoski been climbing?










Contributions


All 672 | Routes 61 | Areas 12 | Photos 241 | Page Improvements | Comments 36 | Posts 5 | Stars 253 | Ratings 64
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: Glen Charnoski When: 10 hours ago

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Comments: I did the same as Eric, clip the right anchor, then pull in to place the left one. I hung on as long as I could to clip that left one with no success.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : New Road (5.11a/b)
By: Glen Charnoski When: 10 hours ago

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Comments: Oh This is a very fun climb, esp the overhanging jug bit, and the chunky top section, too. Would be a great warm-up, accept for the first 2 strenuous sketchy clips.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Joker (5.11b)
By: Glen Charnoski When: 10 hours ago

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Comments: Warm-up? Who on earth would warm-up on this one? Right from the get go, you have to reach high off a sketchy block, to clip the first bolt, then crimp like hell off opposing side-pulls, grovel your feet left, pull hard and throw to a rounded bump with the right hand, then reach way out left, and continue on insecure verticalness to the top. My partner and I were quite pumped after this 2nd route of the day, and felt ready to just go home (but we stayed to flail on more routes). Eleanor was more ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Knappweed Herbacide (5.10d)
By: Glen Charnoski When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: I suppose it might be 10b or so if you stay under the bolt line at the start as the holds are sloping downward, but as this was a warm-up, I climbed left of the bolt line on easier ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Pinkie (AKA South P... : South Pinnacle (Easy 5th)
By: Glen Charnoski When: 2 days ago

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Comments: I would recommend using the Seal Rock approach trail, the north face talus and blocks are slippery when wet and slow going.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Whisper and Shout (5.9- PG13)
By: Glen Charnoski When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: The rock is steep and smooth at the start, offering only tiny edges for your feet that are exfoliating, so be careful. Reach a jug after 15'. Be careful not to pull on the obvious hand-sized rock loose next to the jug. Easier and more enjoyable cracks and edges proceed, with good holds and gear. Enjoy!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Warm Up (5.11)
By: Glen Charnoski When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: This is a hard warm-up! For me, the crux involves reaching around the arÍte at the overhang, reaching out to palm the arÍte, holding in with a right heel, and throwing for a jug on top of the arÍte "column". I missed with my right hand and, on TR, caught it with an awkward left hand. The move above the overhang to the last bolt is reachy and balancy, too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Tangen Towers : East Face/Upper Tangen Towe... (5.4)
By: Glen Charnoski When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Not knowing better, I followed up the natural line on the right side of the face, where I saw a few (precarious) flakes to put some gear. The climbing is easy on average (5.0-5.2), except for a few moves on small rounded holds, notably, about 40' below the summit, right before a flake. The soloist in the photo turned around and downclimbed after being "stuck" at this crux. So, it's an easy solo, with a few committing steeper sections on small holds. At any rate, there is not much gear to place a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Tangen Towers : Tangen Tunnel route
By: Glen Charnoski When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: This route is quite an adventure. Route finding was fun, as I didn't really read the beta about the route. Quite hard and slick and mossy getting over some chockstones. Good time of year to do it (spring) as the vegetation is trampled by winter snow. The bushwhacking was so bad, I went only to the top of the Upper Tangen Tower, which has quite a nice view of Royal Arch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Damascus
By: Glen Charnoski When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: I think this is the Flatiron referred to as "North Icarus" (elev. 7070) on lists of john. See listsofjohn.com/peak/140830.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Fly Trap (5.11c)
By: Glen Charnoski When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: I also agree with Crusher about the anchor "crux" moves. I lead the thing, only to be staring at the anchor bolts holding a tenuous pinch 8 inches from the anchor, for what seemed like eternity, not knowing what to do, only to have no other option than to just fall off. Later, I realized I should have gone on past the anchor to the jugs to clip the anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Pooky Proof (5.7)
By: Glen Charnoski When: May 20, 2014

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Comments: Great kid's route, only one at Bowling Alley, really.


Location: CO : Boulder : Mount Sanitas : South Shelf Block : Center Route (V0) : Photo
By: Glen Charnoski When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Good body spot!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Blood Diamond (5.11c)
By: Glen Charnoski When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: Can TR after doing Diamonds and Rust.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Oh Boy (5.10c/d)
By: Glen Charnoski When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: The top edge above the anchor isn't very positive to pull through the crux, but after getting up there, I saw a nice hold a bit to the right to pull up on and stand to clip the anchor (if you don't wish to grab the chains beforehand).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Scarecrow (5.9-)
By: Glen Charnoski When: May 24, 2013

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Comments: Interesting line at the right of the climbable section of the wall (lichen lurks just to the right). I found some loose rock in the vertical seams in the first 20 ft. Can continue route by using last 5 bolts of "No Direction Home" for added enjoyment.


Location: CO : Golden : Ralston Buttes
By: Glen Charnoski When: Dec 12, 2012

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Comments: If JeffCo has designated this area as biologically "sensitive", explain to me this: If you look at a satellite image of Ralston Buttes, you will notice a new HUGE house built immediately east of the main summit area at the end of a road built just for access to the house. A round-about offers easy in and out. There appears to be a mini-golf course built in the backyard. A large road extends NW of this house up to a clearing that would suggest another location for a mansion. What on earth is goin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : East Inside Corner (V2)
By: Glen Charnoski When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: I always wondered where this V0 could be, because I could never get off the ground! All looked hard and sharp. Nice to hear you grade it V2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cookie Jar : West Overhang (V1)
By: Glen Charnoski When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: Could this be called "Commitment" (V2) in Horan's Boulder Bouldering book?


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay East : Muay Thai
By: Glen Charnoski When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: Note on Rebolting: Like many areas in Krabi, ALL Muay Thai route have been rebolted with Titanium bolts (with red glue), as denoted in King's new 2011 7th Ed. guidebook with a "T" on the route topos. All proceeds from book sales go to rebolting Railay and Tonsai. Apparently, You can order the book from King Climbers for 1,050 Baht (or US equivalent) at kingclimbers@iname.com (specify # of books needed and your address).
You can view the rebolting pages at railay.com/railay/climbing/... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay East : ... : Muay Thai (5.10c/d)
By: Glen Charnoski When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: Protection: 5 Titanium bolts (rebolted 2010).


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay East : ... : Hello Christine (5.10b)
By: Glen Charnoski When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: The route has 7 threads according to King's new guidebook (2011).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Slamdance Cosmopolis (5.10b)
By: Glen Charnoski When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: A great long exposed route! A little sketchy for the 5.10- leader. NO need for locking anchor draws (there are modernly equipped "clip your rope in" bolts. Cruxy low on the climb to 2nd bolt and again after the last clip. I had to reach around the left with a foot and hand to feel secure getting to the anchor.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay East : ... : Chok Dee (5.9)
By: Glen Charnoski When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: There are 2 routes just left of Chok Dee. Probably described in a new book, but I didn't see any route info. I rate them both 5.9/10a


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay East : ... : Mosquito Coil (5.10)
By: Glen Charnoski When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: Im pretty sure this is the route I did just right of Keep The Jam Man. I too rated it 5.10b/c. I saw 1 bolt and 3 slings on this route.


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