Comments: Original start is on Fern Bar. Clip the fist bolt and traverse left to the first bolt on Iranian Arms Deal. More in keeping with the difficulties of the rest of Iranian Arms. The direct start was added later and is hard .10. Other options for the start exist.
Comments: This bee-you-T-full route is worth carrying a couple of large (#10 & 11) Hexcentrics for stuffing into huecos. They are bomber where no SLCD will fit and help raise the casualness factor considerably.
As described here, the ledge of the belay after P2 has what looks like a perfect handhold that is now deadly loose. (Perfect except for the chalked X on it... until it rains.) Big as a turkey platter and several inches thick.
Comments: Bryan - We removed all the grande choss we could on the multiple trips up the route so...the upper 3 or 4 pitches were worked over less than the lower ones. Nonetheless, I feel you will encounter more loose rock on Space Boyz than you will here.
We worked it hard with the objective of making a route that was reasonably safe for the Potrero and less than 5.12. Both Hank and I felt we succeeded but subsequent ascents thought the rating a bit stiff for 11.d but then again we thought pitch one ... more >>