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I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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All 2552 | Routes 245 | Areas 23 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements 11 | Comments 246 | Posts 69 | Stars 1086 | Ratings 841
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan
By: George Perkins When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: On our descent, we goofed: We went north along the ridge, then east and down the easternmost of the gullies, almost along the base of the next formation to the east (Chaos Crag?), going around the back (east) side of the Frog. We never found a rappel station, and ended up coming out where the La Luz Trail crosses the drainage. This was Class 2 (no rappels or even any easy downclimbing) but with substantial bushwhacking through spike-bushes. I wouldn't recommend this way, unless one didn't ha... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Dung Alley (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: No criticism intended at all here... It is interesting how 2 people with the same guidebooks can find things differently.
Believing it was Summer Dreams, I went up the right side of the pillar shown for the start of this climb, and shared the top and went to first the right then the middle anchors. And I guessed that Dung Alley went up to the 2-bolt anchor shown on the next buttress left with that anchor shown in beta photo (although I didn't climb it).
I have no good reason to believe... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Monkey Lust (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 17, 2008

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Comments: One better choice than the offwidth start is to climb one of the "boulder routes" Laurel's Climb or Unknown - Boulder Left instead to get to the big balcony ledge below the steep bolted section.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Jonny Questa (5.10 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 14, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for the advice and corrections, Dave.

The guidebook is not particularly clear on which of the variations are the best choices on this climb. The left (original) start is the easier option but is not as good as the recommended "Sequestered start" to the right. If you do take the original start, you can also bypass the somewhat runout 5.9+ 2nd pitch by going left around the big orange roof directly above the dihedral (this is about 5.9 also). If you do the "Sequestered start", I think... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : T2 Flake (5.10c R)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 12, 2008

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Comments: The upper seam takes small nuts and RPs in tricky placements, also you can place a large nut or cam in a horizontal. Don't bother bringing gear bigger than a #1 camelot on this climb. It's strenuous to hold on while trying to find gear on the upper part, maybe running it out and going for it is the best choice for an onsight attempt.

I think this climb is one of the best ones at the Playground. It's sustained, there aren't any good rests, and it has an intricate crux. And the giant po... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
By: George Perkins When: Jul 16, 2008

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Comments: I spoke with a long time LA climber about this area yesterday. He said that he was pretty sure many of the routes on this wall (Pie in Your Eye, Bovine Inspiration, Cud For Lulu) had been climbed before they were bolted in the 90s, and the names now applied to these sport climbs are carried over from when these routes did not have bolts and may have followed different lines. You can see how the 'RC: NM' book and 'Jemez Rock' do not agree about this cliff. Not that it's a big deal or ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome : Crest Jewel (and Crest Jewe... (5.10d R)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 16, 2008

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Comments: This climb did not seem like 'R' to me; good pro on anything 5.9 or harder for sure. Especially compared to other slab climbs on Glacier Point and in Tuolumne, and probably the other slab climbs on North Dome (which I haven't tried yet). For a comparison with some shorter ones, I felt Needle & Spoon on Pywiack and Marginal on the Apron felt mentally tougher on their harder pitches; if you can climb those you'll be fine on Crest Jewel.

One of the best slab climb... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Leisure Climb (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 11, 2008

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Comments: If you don't like the idea of 5.9 R: instead of p3 of Leisure Climb (the crux), soon after starting pitch 3, traverse left and instead climb p3 of Midsummer's Nights Dream, which is 5.9 and well-protected... you can rejoin Leisure Climb again on p4.

This makes the easiest route on North Chasm View Wall from the Cruise Gully approach, and makes this Black Canyon moderate more appealing to a 5.9 leader. Some might say "you didn't climb Leisure Climb..." though.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : South Rock : Yikes Dikes (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments:
Chris Wenker wrote:
This route apparently was known in the olden days as "Puddin'", and was rated as an old-school 5.6

I was under the impression that the 5.6 climb followed cracks and grooves just to the south of Yikes Dikes, whereas Dikes is mainly face climbing on the west buttress primarily. I haven't tried it though. Could be wrong.

As there are 3 bolts on Dikes (and seeing who added them), and only 1 mentioned for Puddin, I doubt that Dike... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : South Rock : Airy Scary (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: May 27, 2008

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Comments: Thanks, Mike, I really appreciate you sharing this story. It's fun to hear when someone like Bruce is happy when a fitting new name gets put on one of his climbs. This was among the best climbs I've done at TP, had me glowing for the next week. It's too scary to be truly classic. Too bad I can't touch Bruce's harder routes.

[I feel a little guilty for reducing the next person's adventure.. but I figure people who want that don't visit websites designed to share beta.]

Fixed gear description:... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Chilly Willy Wall : Tasty Freeze (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: May 13, 2008

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Comments: Jemez Rock lists an independent line as Unnamed (5.10+) just left of Tasty Freeze. I'm not sure where it is.

I think only 1 logical "mixed bolts + gear" climb exists in section of Chilly Willy Wall, and it goes at about 5.9 and is Tasty Freeze. Maybe if you don't stem off the block at the beginning, and stay left rather than clip the 2nd bolt, you could make it a contrived 5.10+ by staying left of the black streak (not protected well, but could be toproped).]

After some discussion with a few f... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : Y - South Side : Apeshit (aka Cavemantle) (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: May 8, 2008

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Comments: This climb protects well at its crux with a #4 cam placed horizontally just above the mantle shelf, on the right side. I found no need to mess with the hangerless bolts from the climb that once existed to the left of this climb.

You can avoid the crux by starting to the right and traversing in to join the hand crack. The guidebooks list an "Easy Start" (5.9) just to the right of Apeshit, but show that line as independent for the entire route rather than just the beginning, which doesn't ... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Serpent Face (5.10c PG13)
By: George Perkins When: May 2, 2008

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Comments: Excellent climb- arguably the best 5.10 at TP.

It's too bad the guidebook calls this climb 'R' - it probably keeps people off of this very enjoyable route who otherwise would really have a blast. It is no more runout than the rest of the Mosaic Rock routes (of those 5.10 or easier).

Near the top, the guidebook's line suggests you angle right on big holds past a tiny pine tree (and skip the 4th bolt which is to the left). Doing so is easier, and more independent of the natural finish to Better... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Greg Shredder (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: The rappel anchor has chains and is adequate. Thanks, Scott(?), for upgrading this.

You're probably ok if your largest cam is a #4 camalot, but a bigger one would be nice to have.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Observatory Wall (Upper Tie... : Lichening The Serpent (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: D. Newell made a toprope ascent with one of the FAs listed here, scoping the line, prior to its being bolted, he said, (if I remember correctly).


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Grape Ape (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: The name Grape Ape reportedly originated from a hairy belligerent purple-fleece-wearing Santa Fean who was working on a nearby trad route at the time of the FA, and wasn't too psyched about the LA crew drilling a 17-bolt sport route right next to it. You can see the purple fleece on the ground in Bradshaw's photo from the FA
-----
If you don't have a 2nd rope, you can get down from this climb with 1 rope by rappeling first to the anchor for Highly Caffienated ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs : Right Cave Route (5.11c) : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: This climb is a little easier if you start about 3' to the left of this guy, and climb up to the kneebar-pod directly.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Doughnut Shop
By: George Perkins When: Apr 16, 2008

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Comments: The bolts on the 5.10 climbs Little Debby's Ding Dong and Fat Cops On Swivel Chairs and Doughynuts all have hangers.
The 4 harder sport climbs are missing hangers. (edit 3/13)

I think I heard that Scott Beguin is the one who replaced some of the bolts/hangers/anchors, which I appreciate, at least.

There is a shorter way to get here vs. than going to the Playground, then backtracking, but it's hard to describe. Keep an eye out for a gully down to the left, about when the trail turns to the right, and drop down th... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: George Perkins When: Apr 15, 2008

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Comments: This page makes sense mainly because the New Mexico page already had a bunch of Ship Rock photos (which is why I think keeping Ship Rock in the New Mexico section is a good idea, rather than adding it to Arizona>Navajolands; most people associate this peak with New Mexico).

Here are some more links to Ship Rock climbing history:
lamountaineers.org/History/Top...
supertopo.com/climbers-forum/7...


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : A La Verga (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 14, 2008

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Comments: This climb is incorrectly marked as 'Moon Over Belen' in both current guides.

My guess is that the original 'Moon Over Belen' climb is a chossy trad climb somewhere on the right side of Cattle Call Wall, probably up the left-slanting bushy crack just left of this route. The confusion probably resulted from the original Las Conchas guide having no photos or sketches of Cattle Call wall.

The proper name for the climb was provided by... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 11, 2008

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Comments: Great climbing on some of the cleanest rock in New Mexico.
This climb goes at 5.10+ A0, as the 5.11 crux on the 1st pitch is short, and can easily be aided by pulling on the fixed pins. There is mandatory 5.10 slab in a few places on pitches 1&3.

Alternate Start: An alternate harder start to this climb begins just to the right of the traditional start. It joins the rest of QoB at the first belay; it's 5.11 with new bolts and fun, thin climbing. Greg Swift and Sharon Dogruel first ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Revenge of the Elderly (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: Great description, Chris.

You can combine pitches 1 + 2 with a 60m rope. No real good reason to do this though, as the tree anchor is good and the ledge is spacious.
You can combine pitches 3 + 4 with a 60m rope (maybe 50m?). This might cause some rope drag (on the delicate slab crux at the end), but means less time constructing anchors at a cramped intermediate belay.

Pitch 1 is probably more likely to be wet than any other portion of any climb in the Gemstone area . If there is any snow r... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : John Dunn Bridge Area : John's Wall : Easter Rising (5.9+) : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: The climber in this photo is on Alberta 5.10+


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : West Rock : Ground Up (5.10b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 4, 2008

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Comments: "Taos Rock" is in error, I think, in that it describes the climb that starts behind the tree left of How Ed Lost His Mind as 'New Rage', 5.9+. Don't get sandbagged; this is 'Ground Up'. It's full-on 5.10 if you stick with the bolts. The 5.9+ climb is actually about 20' to the left of 'Ed's Mind'.

I would recommend bringing wired nuts. Makes a few moves a lot more comfortable.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Christine's Way Buff Sabb (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: A single 60m rope works for the descent (don't worry about what the book says)


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