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Areas = 15
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All 2671 | Routes 247 | Areas 22 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements 28 | Comments 263 | Posts 82 | Stars 1136 | Ratings 889
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Flying A (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: I took the .10d grade from 'Jemez Rock' when I posted this climb, but I'll bump it up a notch since most of us think this is too hard for 5.10 too.
Flying A is much tougher than Blow Hole (10c/d). IMO, Nines is harder than this climb due mostly to the pump factor on "9s". I know a few people who climb a lot at White Rock who've redpointed Flying A, but haven't led Nines clean yet.

Some other sandbagged 5.10s that I try to avoid at the Playground:
"T2 Flake"... more >>


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Cakewalk Wall : Cakewalk (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 16, 2009

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Comments: The descent is somewhat confusing, the first time you top out one of these routes.

Descent:
From the top of CakeWalk (after the traverse right), scramble up and over a big chockstone in a corridor behind you. At the end of this corridor downclimb on a steep but easy hueco-covered face into a deeper gash, and scramble east out the other side. Walk down slabs to the north, aiming for the pond (Laguna Prieta).
From the top of 'Son of CW', you may need to rappel/downclimb a short hueco'd face on ... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall : Utopian Vistas (var.) (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 8, 2009

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Comments: This route (with the traverse left at the top) is a good way to finish Stinky Finger if you don't have any cams; but finishing straight up the wide easy crack is more aesthetic with less rope drag, in my opinion.

If you do finish the route by traversing left, one plus is you can throw a TR on the excellent roof-to-arete route Hopper's Hangover.

The first crux on this route (shared with Stinky Finger) is a beautiful mental puzzle where you don't know which side of the arete to be... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Miner's Crag : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jan 15, 2009

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Comments: Heard this morning they've seen some of these otters in White Rock Canyon now; that they've come down from Taos- over 50 miles away!


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 13, 2009

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Comments: Moat Jump is generally regarded as the best warm-up here, once familiar with it.

Many folks stickclip the 2nd bolt, as it's difficult climbing passing the sort of low 1st bolt and you don't want to blow the 2nd clip. When climbed in this style, the technical crux is essentially toproped (not that there's anything wrong with that, but it may affect one's perception of the rating).

Step right after clipping the 4th bolt to stay on route (a harder variation goes to a bolt up and left and links i... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Beckey-Chouinard (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 31, 2008

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Comments:
Ben Lyon wrote:
Can someone describe the bivy site?

The two bivi ledges at the top of p8 and p10 are sandy and big enough to unrope (the higher one is better in my estimation). The East Creek bivi boulder in the basin below the start is a nice camping spot; if you didn't have a tent and it rained, you could probably hide under the giant boulder (but if you're not carrying all your gear over the top- you have to return there anyway- may as well bring a shelter).
 more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Cholla Wall (5.10a/b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 12, 2008

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Comments: Not to be a sandbagger, because it's much harder to hang on to place gear in an onsight style; but enough of the pockets will take bomber gear if you suss out the placements first on TR or rappel to see what fits where (many of the pockets open up inside so it can be hard to tell which cam is the right size at first glance). 4 or 5 gear placements are pretty obvious. Once you have the pro figured out (or pre-placed), Cholla Wall can feel like a pretty reasonable lead, not too scary, ... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall : Hopper's Hangover (5.12)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 6, 2008

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Comments: #15 in this beta photo.
The crux is really cool and the good climbing continues on the prow above.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall : Klein's Corner (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 6, 2008

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Comments: #13 in this beta photo
Fun climb- but don't come near this if you're one of those trad climbers who gets riled up about bolts anywhere near cam and nut placements.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall : Forever Jung (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 6, 2008

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Comments: #12 in this beta photo
Seemed harder than the climb to its right in my opinion. Fun once you get going.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : Wizard of Loneliness (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 6, 2008

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Comments: Excellent climb. It's #7 in this beta photo


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Hellboy (5.8+)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 19, 2008

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Comments:
Chris Wenker wrote:
Question: I'd also heard elsewhere there was a second anchor somewhere up higher, similar to Jason's mention of the "anchors that already exist up there about another 30' beyond the Highway to Hell anchors." I couldn't see them. Are those higher anchors the ones that are at the top of Post Moderate? Or are there really two sets of anchors just for Highway to Hell?
I think Karl's comment on the Post Moderate page may answer your question about the high anch... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Misunderstanding (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2008

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Comments: This climb is good and by liebacking you can avoid any of the usual offwidth trashing techniques.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Hellboy (5.8+)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2008

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Comments: Chris-- for this bolted line, use the lower anchor of Highway to Hell, installed by S. Beguin and friends on the 1st recorded ascent of that route. [EDIT: that was in November; this has now been extended to the high anchors last weekend]

I agree with your point.. In my opinion, this climb would benefit by having a new separate, even lower anchor installed at the level of the 2nd to last bolt [EDIT: Jason put in an anchor somewhere around this section in Dec 2008]; t... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Observatory Wall (Upper Tie... : Airbus (5.11 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 3, 2008

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Comments: Steven, I think the PG13 is because it is unprotected (but not too tough) off the belay entering the bombay slot before you get a #6 Camalot in, but the hardest crux moves are well-protected by the #6 cam. The last face climbing section to the chains is also heady (5.9 or 5.10-?), especially after the thrashing you just experienced, but a fall would be clean. I also think that the crux of this climb is easier if you're scrawny like myself because you can get farther into the narrow... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Oct 2, 2008

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Comments: Jason, this crack looks more like the 5.8 or 5.9 crack that is just to the right of Boy What Assholes to me. Though, I'll be the first to admit I don't climb at the Overlook much and don't really know the names of the crack climbs in this part of the Overlook.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 16, 2008

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Comments: Hmm..
We climbed the 5.7 no pro chimney pitch and looked at and started the "5.9 thin face". We thought it was much harder than 5.9 and poorly protected, so we retreated back to the previous belay (just above the fixed tube pitch), using a sling and biner someone before us had left on a horn to rappel.
The corner to the right of the 5.7 chimney that we took was well-protected, and about 5.8. At this point, we were no longer following the topo, so (at the time) we didn't know where the stellar... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Southern Arete (5.10 R)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 15, 2008

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Comments: EDIT: A variation to avoid the '5.9 face with little pro' section
After the crux OW pitch with the fixed tube chock, don't continue up the 5.7 'no pro' chimney directly above (as shown in the guidebook topo). [If you go that way, you'll have trouble moving back to the right side of the arete later on.] Instead of going up the chimney, move right into a left-facing corner, which has a fixed piton, and head onto the expansive face right of the arete. From here, you can look for ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : The Happy Gnome (5.8+)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: The regular 5.8+ way is exciting enough and offers some unique pitches.

A harder option is the 5.10b Prandoni/McFarland direct variation to pitches 3+4; it is an excellent 160' pitch:
Stay in the left-facing corner above the 2nd belay, passing a few tricky sections which you pass by moving a move or two out onto the face. When you reach the big roof, traverse right, clip a 1/4" bolt above the lip of the roof, and keep traversing right to get to the 5.8+ exit through the roof, which i... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan
By: George Perkins When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: An alternative descent with no rappels: Go north along the ridge, then east and down the easternmost of the gullies, almost along the base of the next formation to the east (Chaos Crag), going around the back (east) side of the Frog (the Frog is the smaller formation just right of Yataghan, when you're looking at its SW face). This is Cl. 3 initially, then Cl. 2 most of the way (no rappels) and comes out where the La Luz Trail crosses the drainage. Someone helped this "trail" out by clipping ... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Dung Alley (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 2, 2008

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Comments: No criticism intended at all here... It is interesting how 2 people with the same guidebooks can find things differently.
Believing it was Summer Dreams, I went up the right side of the pillar shown for the start of this climb, and shared the top and went to first the right then the middle anchors. And I guessed that Dung Alley went up to the 2-bolt anchor shown on the next buttress left with that anchor shown in beta photo (although I didn't climb it).
I have no good reason to believe... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Monkey Lust (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 17, 2008

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Comments: One better choice than the offwidth start is to climb one of the "boulder routes" Laurel's Climb or Unknown - Boulder Left instead to get to the big balcony ledge below the steep bolted section.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Jonny Questa (5.10 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 14, 2008

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Comments: Thanks for the advice and corrections, Dave.

The guidebook is not particularly clear on which of the variations are the best choices on this climb. The left (original) start is the easier option but is not as good as the recommended "Sequestered start" to the right. If you do take the original start, you can also bypass the somewhat runout 5.9+ 2nd pitch by going left around the big orange roof directly above the dihedral (this is about 5.9 also). If you do the "Sequestered start", I think... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : T2 Flake (5.10c R)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 12, 2008

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Comments: The upper seam takes small nuts and RPs in tricky placements, also you can place a large nut or cam in a horizontal. Don't bother bringing gear bigger than a #1 camelot on this climb. It's strenuous to hold on while trying to find gear on the upper part, maybe running it out and going for it is the best choice for an onsight attempt.

I think this climb is one of the best ones at the Playground. It's sustained, there aren't any good rests, and it has an intricate crux. And the giant po... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
By: George Perkins When: Jul 16, 2008

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Comments: I spoke with a long time LA climber about this area yesterday. He said that he was pretty sure many of the routes on this wall (Pie in Your Eye, Bovine Inspiration, Cud For Lulu) had been climbed before they were bolted in the 90s, and the names now applied to these sport climbs are carried over from when these routes did not have bolts and may have followed different lines. You can see how the 'RC: NM' book and 'Jemez Rock' do not agree about this cliff. Not that it's a big deal or ... more >>


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