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Member Since: May 25, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 144
Total Points: 3,137
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All (2428) | Routes (242) | Areas (23) | Photos (28) | Comments (232) | Posts (57) | Stars (1044) | Ratings (802)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : Lichening The Serpent (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: D. Newell made a toprope ascent with one of the FAs listed here, scoping the line, prior to its being bolted, he said, (if I remember correctly).


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Grape Ape (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: The name Grape Ape reportedly originated from a hairy belligerent purple-fleece-wearing Santa Fean who was working on a nearby trad route at the time of the FA, and wasn't too psyched about the LA crew drilling a 17-bolt sport route right next to it. You can see the purple fleece on the ground in Bradshaw's photo from the FA
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If you don't have a 2nd rope, you can get down from this climb with 1 rope by rappeling first to the anchor for Highly Caffienated ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs : Right Cave Route (5.11c) : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: This climb is a little easier if you start about 3' to the left of this guy, and climb up to the kneebar-pod directly.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Doughnut Shop
By: George Perkins When: Apr 16, 2008

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Comments: The bolts on the 5.10 climbs Little Debby's Ding Dong and Fat Cops On Swivel Chairs and Doughynuts all have hangers.
The 4 harder sport climbs are missing hangers. (edit 3/13)

I think I heard that Scott Beguin is the one who replaced some of the bolts/hangers/anchors, which I appreciate, at least.

There is a shorter way to get here vs. than going to the Playground, then backtracking, but it's hard to describe. Keep an eye out for a gully down to the left, about when the trail turns to the right, and drop down th... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: George Perkins When: Apr 15, 2008

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Comments: This page makes sense mainly because the New Mexico page already had a bunch of Ship Rock photos (which is why I think keeping Ship Rock in the New Mexico section is a good idea, rather than adding it to Arizona>Navajolands; most people associate this peak with New Mexico).

Here are some more links to Ship Rock climbing history:
www.lamountaineers.org/History/Topic_6.html
www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/783372/Shiprock_Climbing_Hi>>>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : A La Verga (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 14, 2008

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Comments: This climb is incorrectly marked as 'Moon Over Belen' in both current guides.

My guess is that the original 'Moon Over Belen' climb is a chossy trad climb somewhere on the right side of Cattle Call Wall, probably up the left-slanting bushy crack just left of this route. The confusion probably resulted from the original Las Conchas guide having no photos or sketches of Cattle Call wall.

The proper name for the climb was provided by... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 11, 2008

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Comments: Great climbing on some of the cleanest rock in New Mexico.
This climb goes at 5.10+ A0, as the 5.11 crux on the 1st pitch is short, and can easily be aided by pulling on the fixed pins. There is mandatory 5.10 slab in a few places on pitches 1&3.

Alternate Start: An alternate (and better if you're up for it) start to this climb begins just to the right of the traditional start. It joins the rest of QoB at the first belay; it's 5.11 with new bolts; Greg Swift and Sharon D... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Revenge of the Elderly (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: Great description, Chris.

You can combine pitches 1 + 2 with a 60m rope. No real good reason to do this though, as the tree anchor is good and the ledge is spacious.
You can combine pitches 3 + 4 with a 60m rope (maybe 50m?). This might cause some rope drag (on the delicate slab crux at the end), but means less time constructing anchors at a cramped intermediate belay.

Pitch 1 is probably more likely to be wet than any other portion of any climb in the Gemstone area . If there is any snow r... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : John Dunn Bridge Area : John's Wall : Easter Rising (5.9+) : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: The climber in this photo is on Alberta 5.10+


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : West Rock : Ground Up (5.10b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 4, 2008

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Comments: "Taos Rock" is in error, I think, in that it describes the climb that starts behind the tree left of How Ed Lost His Mind as 'New Rage', 5.9+. Don't get sandbagged; this is 'Ground Up'. It's full-on 5.10 if you stick with the bolts. The 5.9+ climb is actually about 20' to the left of 'Ed's Mind'.

I would recommend bringing wired nuts. Makes a few moves a lot more comfortable.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Christine's Way Buff Sabb (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: A single 60m rope works for the descent (don't worry about what the book says)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Brush Painted Datsun (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: A single 60m rope just works for the descent (don't worry about what the book says).


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The
By: George Perkins When: Mar 30, 2008

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Comments: Not sure that Jemez Rock is accurate on who "owns" the Y, based on maps by LANL and elsewhere, but more importantly where the fences and signs are.

This is LANL/DOE government property, as indicated by signs on the fence next to the highway. Signs on trees 20' south of the South Rim say 'NPS boundary', so that is where the northern extent of Bandelier's Tsankawi district begins. It was discussed that this area might have been included in the LANL-San I land swap deal (which would've... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Garden Party (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 25, 2008

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Comments: When I did this- From the notch, I traversed right to the fixed piton, and then followed crack systems generally straight up and a little left from the piton. Backclean after the initial traverse if you care about rope drag. I remember a slick wide crack section- probably "Yosemite style liebacking". After most of the rope (180'), I reached a belay in an alcove behind a big block (in the chimney behind the block, wide enough to fit in). A shorter pitch went from there to the top, passing the... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : West Rock : How Ed Lost His Mind (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 22, 2008

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Comments: I went the way you describe here, following the 'Taos Rock' description. Seemed like it worked.

A longtime LA/TP climber suggested that How Ed Lost His Mind crosses the bolt line Mad Bolter from left to right and continues up on big features right of the bolt line, rather than joining it. This is the way shown in 'RC:NM'. Pro is less available going this way (you skip the last bolt); but the climbing is easier, about 5.8 where it's runout.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Southern Comfort Wall : Black Velvet (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 11, 2008

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Comments: The K.Kiser bolted face variation for pitch 3, left of the left-angling roof traverse, is fun, and about 5.9. One of the 2 bolts had a modern one (right next to the old one), the other had just the original 1/4" bolt.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: This pitch is the same as the 6th pitch of Excitable Boys, so these two routes probably coincide from Football Ledge up. See this photo


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Styx
By: George Perkins When: Jan 7, 2008

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Comments: (Much like hell...) Styx bakes in the sun in the summer; but is shaded in the winter as the sun is too low in the sky and blocked by cliffs.

Denny Newell and friends did some (probable) FAs in this area in the early '90s, but he forgot which lines, exactly.. [edit- Kiser, Wezwick, and Kessler also did these climbs early on. I didn't intend to start an argument about who did what first.. I don't know, it doesn't matter much anyway and there's no clear way to resolve it.]

The names fo... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Styx : Cold Day in Hell (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 5, 2008

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Comments: If you don't want to trail a 2nd rope: climb with a 70m rope; or, with a single 50 or 60m rope, do a short rappel to the Lethe anchors first, then a 2nd rappel down from there.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Forest Lawn (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 17, 2007

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Comments: Descend by rappeling (with 1 60m rope) Pair-a-Grins and p1 of Forest Lawn with 3 rappels off 2bolt anchors (watch the rope ends.. the raps are 28meters). This returns you right to the base. (To get to the top of Pair-a-grins from Forest Lawn p2, climb up 10' of 3rd class to your right to the top of the pinnacle)

I thought the 2nd pitch of Forest Lawn was alright and definitely worth doing if you're not up for Pair-a-Grins.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Excitable Boys (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: #4 Camalot (old-style, or new, doesn't matter) is not big enough for the OW on p6. You need bigger pro than this, or grovel up it without immediate close pro (no big deal- it's 5.7 or so).
Other comments:
  • Link pitches 1+ 2 and pitches 3 + 4 w/ 60m rope as stated above.
  • On the 4th class pitch (p5): From 2 bolt belay on top of the 5.9 p4 option, you can't get to Football Ledge in a single 60m pitch. If you were to set a belay after 60m, what remains is probably 'only' 3rd class, however...
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Warpy Moople (5.9 R)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 23, 2007

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Comments: A small metal placard attached to one of the bolts at the 4th belay memorializes someone who loved the Sandias, although time has made the inscription (and name) more difficult to decipher. Any info on this person and their story? It was not one of the people from Jane Tenneson accident described in the above link, as the date of passage on the memorial is 9/18/95 and the name is Berg or ??berg.

This climb has seen multiple unfortunate accidents, and you can't help but wonder knowing that it c... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : A.D.D. (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: I broke the plaque when the top 3' of the starting pillar came off when I started up this in last April, and the big block I pulled off smashed the plaque. I felt really bad about it, and took a ground fall in the process, but fortunately the big block didn't land on me!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf
By: George Perkins When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: I'd recommend 2 ropes for the descent down the south ridge of the summit to the saddle, as described above.

Various other options exist too, none this simple or straightforward (I think). The first time, I got down the S-Ridge-to-Saddle descent with 1 rope and some low 5th class downclimbing, but it would have been more straightforward with two ropes. There's also an intermediate rat's nest that would let it work with 1 rope. Supposedly you can also go down the East side with 1 rope, but the ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 7, 2007

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Comments: MM is an excellent climb. The crux 3rd pitch is really wild but has really good pro right at your waist on both hard parts. You could probably pull on your gear through these short 5.10c sections if necessary.

Pitch 4 is not as bad (5.9PG13?), if you traverse left at the start (Var. 1). Typical Sandia face climbing, not as tough as Warpy Moople's p5. The route finding on this pitch is a little confusing, and don't pass up the gear placements you find or you mind find yourself a bit runout.... more >>


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