Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
a


Member Since: May 25, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact George Perkins


Point Rank: # 144
Total Points: 3,137
Last Year: 148
Last 30 Days: 14
11 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has George Perkins been climbing?










Contributions


All (2428) | Routes (242) | Areas (23) | Photos (28) | Comments (232) | Posts (57) | Stars (1044) | Ratings (802)
Page 7 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: May 10, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The above comment of "spicy routefinding" is exaggerated in my opinion, as I found the description in 'Taos Rock' to be plenty good enough, with a photo showing where to go. There are a few options for the 1st pitch; but none of them are going to get you far off-route on difficult/unprotected ground. Chris is right- pitch 2's written instructions are somewhat off- but the photo is unambiguous and there's really only one obvious way to go. Chris's Beta Photo is accurate, a... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Praise the Lunge (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Cams aren't desirable on this climb, in my opinion. (The positioning of the gear may have changed since back in the day, as there are now 5 bolts where it apparently used to be '4 bolts + 1 piton')

The bolt is above your waist for the lunge crux move, so it's easy to go for it.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Holy Wars (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: There are 4 bolts on this route. (Perhaps the 2nd bolt is newer than the guidebooks, which only mention 3?)

The original Samet guide recommends bringing a TCU to go in the crack before the last bolt; I wish I'd known that. Bring a cam (#1 camalot recommended, but slightly smaller is ok), because it's a long ways between the 3rd and 4th bolt. If you get up there and get scared, you can chicken out and go right to Montana Deviate, which I considered.

The moves be... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall
By: George Perkins When: Apr 18, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Rad Wall is the finest wall at El Rito, and stays dry in the rain (or snow).


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : High Roof Right (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: An alternate start to this climb begins about 6' to the right of the usual start under the high roof; it's a flared corner to a finger crack to the easier cracks on the arete. It's about 5.11-, and appears to have just enough pro down low to make it reasonably leadable (though I haven't tried to lead it yet).


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Direct Start to Bee Sting (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This line is plotted incorrectly in Jemez Rock, but should go as shown in JH's beta photo, I think.

The crack immediately left of this but still right of Momementum (not shown in photo or guidebook) goes at 5.8 with some big loose blocks, and I wouldn't recommend it. It is the climb the guy in this Photo is soloing.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Against Nature (aka Peter's... (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 6, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Preclip the 2nd bolt or you will probably deck from 10-12' up, should you fall at the crux. Most people skip the first bolt, as it's hard to clip from the easiest way climbing to its right, and it's almost too low to be useful. This is because the ground level is higher now than when the climb was put up.

Leaders near their limit will find it helpful if they don't have to hang the draw at the redpoint crux (b4/ b3 if you don't count the glue-in first bolt everyone skips).


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: George Perkins When: Mar 31, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Talked to the Ranger Station today (3/31/2009).
Forest Road 289 is still closed.
She said they intend to open the gate sometime between April 15 - May 15, and could not be more specific.
Edit: Gate is open now, see Jason's comment below
Edit 4/19: Road is in good condition for high clearance vehicles, both from the north and the south. A Camry also made it up there, but I'd wouldn't want to drive it with any low clearance nice car that I owned.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada : Route 17 (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 22, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: If you want to avoid the bouldery cruxy start to this climb but still enjoy the upper half at 5.9: Begin with the blocks/flakes as for climb 18, then move left on the ledge 20' up.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada : Headjam (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 22, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The easiest way to climb up to an anchor on this route is to begin as for "Route 21", moving left midway up. Probably this goes at 5.8, as it skips the cruxes of either route.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Route 13 (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 22, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This climb has a bolt protecting the slab start, which is one of the ways to identify it.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 5. Monster Wall : Heffalump (5.12)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 21, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: You can skip the crux section on the arete by moving to the shallow dihedral to the left (Cracula) for a couple of bolts. I'd say this bumps it down to 5.12- or maybe 5.11+.

The bottom sequence of this climb is badass.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Mar 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I've done the approach from the south rim with the rappels. From the overlook, it took 45 minutes or an hour or something to get down to the end of the 4wd road where Arch and Texas Canyon split. Dropping in wasn't bad, but hiking up at the end of the day after getting our asses kicked... sucked. It would have been pretty nice to be camped down at Arch/Texas junction, but we were not sure about the condition of the road in Arch Canyon.

Was looking for any info on the 4wd road in Arch Canyon ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estant... : Gook Magic (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This climb has a 2-bolt anchor, though the ratty rope/sling probably ought to be replaced, with chains, ideally.

I think I heard somewhere that Walt W. put the anchors in here a while ago, so people in the houses above would be less aware of climbers below.

Rack with nuts & cams up to #2 camalot, with 2 each of #1 camalot helpful.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estant... : Ring of Fire (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This climb has a 2-bolt anchor with quicklinks. The anchor might benefit from these being replaced with chains.

I think I heard somewhere that Walt W. put the anchors in here a while ago, so people in the houses above would be less aware of climbers below.

Oh yeah- this roof is amazing and way bigger than Lens Roof at the Overlook- wish I could climb it. Getting to the lip is powerful and hard already, and the next 2 moves are still not clear to me.

I'm not a good person for ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Sinewave (aka S Crack) (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This is probably the toughest "5.11" crack at White Rock that sees frequent attempts. S-Crack is way more difficult than all the other 5.11s on this cliff, and substantially harder than Unrelenting Nines at The Playground in my estimation. There are at least 3 different ways I've seen people pass the crux, though some may argue that using any holds more than about 2' away from the crack itself is cheating. Most action is on toprope, but a bunch of people have led this climb, but bew... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Grotto End (R. Side) : Where the Wild Things Aren'... (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 7, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I had a lot of trouble clipping the 4th bolt (making the clip was the crux of the climb?). My partner had no trouble- it seems like having your feet in the correct places is crucial.

This is a good climb, and I think the bolt spacing on the climb is excellent. Every time you're just about to get uncomfortably high above the last bolt, it gets easier, and then you clip the next bolt. For all the toughest moves, the bolts are right where you want them.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Flying A (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 2, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I took the .10d grade from 'Jemez Rock' when I posted this climb, but I'll bump it up a notch since most of us think this is too hard for 5.10 too.
Flying A is much tougher than Blow Hole (10c/d). IMO, Nines is harder than this climb due mostly to the pump factor on "9s". I know a few people who climb a lot at White Rock who've redpointed Flying A, but haven't led Nines clean yet.

Some other sandbagged 5.10s that I try to avoid at the Playground:
"T2 Flake"... more >>


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Cakewalk Wall : Cakewalk (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The descent is somewhat confusing, the first time you top out one of these routes.

Descent:
From the top of CakeWalk (after the traverse right), scramble up and over a big chockstone in a corridor behind you. At the end of this corridor downclimb on a steep but easy hueco-covered face into a deeper gash, and scramble east out the other side. Walk down slabs to the north, aiming for the pond (Laguna Prieta).
From the top of 'Son of CW', you may need to rappel/downclimb a short hueco'd face on ... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall : Utopian Vistas (var.) (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 8, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This route (with the traverse left at the top) is a good way to finish Stinky Finger if you don't have any cams; but finishing straight up the wide easy crack is more aesthetic with less rope drag, in my opinion.

If you do finish the route by traversing left, one plus is you can throw a TR on the excellent roof-to-arete route Hopper's Hangover.

The first crux on this route (shared with Stinky Finger) is a beautiful mental puzzle where you don't know which side of the arete to be... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Miner's Crag : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jan 15, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Heard this morning they've seen some of these otters in White Rock Canyon now; that they've come down from Taos- over 50 miles away!


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Moat Jump (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Moat Jump is generally regarded as the best warm-up here, once familiar with it.

Many folks stickclip the 2nd bolt, as it's difficult climbing passing the sort of low 1st bolt and you don't want to blow the 2nd clip. When climbed in this style, the technical crux is essentially toproped (not that there's anything wrong with that, but it may affect one's perception of the rating).

Step right after clipping the 4th bolt to stay on route (a harder variation goes to a bolt up and left and links i... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Beckey-Chouinard (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 31, 2008

view comment >>
Comments:
Ben Lyon wrote:
Can someone describe the bivy site?

The two bivi ledges at the top of p8 and p10 are sandy and big enough to unrope (the higher one is better in my estimation). The East Creek bivi boulder in the basin below the start is a nice camping spot; if you didn't have a tent and it rained, you could probably hide under the giant boulder (but if you're not carrying all your gear over the top- you have to return there anyway- may as well bring a shelter).
 more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Cholla Wall (5.10a/b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 12, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Not to be a sandbagger, because it's much harder to hang on to place gear in an onsight style; but enough of the pockets will take bomber gear if you suss out the placements first on TR or rappel to see what fits where (many of the pockets open up inside so it can be hard to tell which cam is the right size at first glance). 4 or 5 gear placements are pretty obvious. Once you have the pro figured out (or pre-placed), Cholla Wall can feel like a pretty reasonable lead, not too scary, ... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall : Hopper's Hangover (5.12)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 6, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: #15 in this beta photo.
The crux is really cool and the good climbing continues on the prow above.


Page 7 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>