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I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 38 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 146
Total Points: 3,267
Last Year: 147
Last 30 Days: 51
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George Perkins been climbing?










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All 2626 | Routes 246 | Areas 23 | Photos 32 | Page Improvements 16 | Comments 254 | Posts 73 | Stars 1114 | Ratings 868
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : Racist Fantasy (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 30, 2009

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Comments: We replaced the disintegrating webbing anchor with links+biners, but chains would definitely be a further improvement.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Mexican Breakfast Formation : Tarantula (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Thanks, John. It felt insecure compared to other 5.10b's in the Sandias, following what I was pretty sure Sandia Rock said was the easier way to go. Nice climb certainly.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall
By: George Perkins When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: The climb left of Grendal is a fairly new climb Josh put up this summer, probably in the lower 5.10 range. Sorry to hear about the loose bolts- that surprises me, and scares me a little bit.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Cherry Pickin' (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 4, 2009

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Comments: A flake at the upper crux has broken off, making this climb harder than it used to be.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Cyclops (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: You can also start up Werepig (the next climb to the right) for 3 bolts, then move left to Cyclops for upper half, for a slightly easier (~5.11b) variation to these climbs, bypassing Cyclop's small pocket crux.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras
By: George Perkins When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: It's tough to feel good when climbing at your limit over 30+ year old rusty 1/4" bolts.

Also, it's important to remember that:
On most climbs at TP, and nearly all of those 5.10 or under, the fixed gear and bolts are in great condition and trustworthy,
despite the reputation this area has unfortunately gained over the years. First time visitors, and climbers staying on 5.10 or easier climbs, should not be discouraged from coming here, and should not worry about bolts.

Here's my take o... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Serpent Face (5.10c PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Re: "Needs a facelift (three years ago)."
All the bolts looked good on this climb today, and seemed ok when I led it last year. It's fine now, not sure when it was upgraded or by whom (thanks by the way). Edit: heard rumors Taos climbers upgraded these bolts a while ago. Thanks guys.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : Napoleon's Angst (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: The first bolt is still missing its hanger, but skipping it is not too scary.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Ed Woody : Gridlock (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: This climb is erroneously(?) called "Redline" in Taos Rock.
I didn't see a need to step around to the arete, a lieback from a crack to the right to a big reach and I could just barely clip the chains without any scary/committing moves.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Ed Woody : Redline (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: This climb is erroneously(?) called "Gridlock" in Taos Rock, and I only counted 4 bolts.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Beastie Alley : Unnatural Attraction (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 11, 2009

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Comments: You were on the correct climb, Chris. This is the 1st bolted climb on the right side after you enter the Alley.

I'd recommend continuing to the anchor shared with Pony Express, rather than lower off of a single bolt [which, as of 7/19, no longer has a quick-link or leaver biner]. This finish is run out, but easy, or bring a couple pieces of gear.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Hamburger Helper (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 8, 2009

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Comments: Yeah. I'm pretty sure something came off at the crux. Yesterday I had to throw for a hold that I know I had previously reached statically, probably with higher feet.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : The Balance of Power (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: IMO, by now, this climb has cleaned up nicely (but like everything at A37, expect some grit and the outer layer to flake off), and it's excellent climbing- almost as good as Leprosy or any of the other 11s at A37.
The start is not as difficult as the 11+ to its left (A Walk in the Park), and, unlike A Walk.., this climb has better stances and holds to clip from for the first 2 bolts, so I like it more.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Evil Elliot (aka Battering ... (5.11c PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 27, 2009

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Comments: This climb seemed substantially easier than the 11c rating given for it in the guidebooks (I used the crack), and I felt the bolt spacing was not something to get worried about.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower : Western Justice (Frontier J... (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 26, 2009

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Comments: The piton protecting the final crux 8' below the rim came out, pulled it out with my fingers. I did not replace it. I believe this section can be adequately protected with small cams and RPs, but someone may want to replace it before leading.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Stiff Little Fingers (5.11c/d)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 8, 2009

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Comments: You can get gear before the first bolt- a green Alien or a TCU or maybe a nut.
A #1 Camalot is nice for the horizontal crack up high.
Finishing directly over the last bolt without using the adjacent cracks seemed really difficult, maybe harder than the first crux (after bolt 1).


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain
By: George Perkins When: Jun 7, 2009

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Comments: For the descent, you can do 2 rappels with a single 60m rope; the intermediate station is ok.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
By: George Perkins When: Jun 2, 2009

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Comments: I've now climbed most of the lines between Route 8 and 14. I'll just say that the ratings seem to be more correct if you are following Walt W.'s guide and photo posted here and also Beverly's 'Jemez Rock'.

I think that there may be a mix-up in Jackson's 'Rock Climbing: NM', so the climbs' ratings coincide with the route immediately right rather than the line shown for Jackson #17,18,19,20,21,22.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Photo
By: George Perkins When: May 29, 2009

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Comments: There is a newly bolted climb between #4 and #3b (not shown on topo), it is about 5.10-.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side : Overripe Fresh-Squeezed Cal... (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: May 19, 2009

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Comments: The 2 slings are currently fixed on this climb (5/09); with these in place, it's very well-protected.
Update 2/2014: These slings are a bit ratty; and the lower one appears partially torn and I personally wouldn't want to fully trust it as ground fall is a possibility if it were to fail. Maybe they're ok, but it is probably best if they're replaced. As Jason mentions above, a climber relatively solid at the grade might feel okay with the situation.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Mavericks
By: George Perkins When: May 14, 2009

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Comments: For more details on the closure/access in this area of Cimarron Canyon, see this Forum


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Route 32 (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: May 14, 2009

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Comments: Watch out for loose blocks on this dirty route!

With traffic- which it won't see- it would clean up and be interesting for those who seek out offwidths and fist cracks at White Rock, as the physical moves through the overhanging flared crack at the crux are unusual for the area.

Step right at the top, and use the GANSGAGGTOMH anchor for this climb.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: May 10, 2009

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Comments: The above comment of "spicy routefinding" is exaggerated in my opinion, as I found the description in 'Taos Rock' to be plenty good enough, with a photo showing where to go. There are a few options for the 1st pitch; but none of them are going to get you far off-route on difficult/unprotected ground. Chris is right- pitch 2's written instructions are somewhat off- but the photo is unambiguous and there's really only one obvious way to go. Chris's Beta Photo is accurate, a... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Praise the Lunge (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 19, 2009

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Comments: Cams aren't desirable on this climb, in my opinion. (The positioning of the gear may have changed since back in the day, as there are now 5 bolts where it apparently used to be '4 bolts + 1 piton')

The bolt is above your waist for the lunge crux move, so it's easy to go for it.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Holy Wars (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 19, 2009

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Comments: There are 4 bolts on this route. (Perhaps the 2nd bolt is newer than the guidebooks, which only mention 3?)

The original Samet guide recommends bringing a TCU to go in the crack before the last bolt; I wish I'd known that. Bring a cam (#1 camalot recommended, but slightly smaller is ok), because it's a long ways between the 3rd and 4th bolt. If you get up there and get scared, you can chicken out and go right to Montana Deviate, which I considered.

The moves be... more >>


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