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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
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Areas = 15
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All 2473 | Routes 244 | Areas 23 | Photos 29 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 237 | Posts 63 | Stars 1060 | Ratings 816
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
By: George Perkins When: Jun 2, 2009

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Comments: I've now climbed most of the lines between Route 8 and 14. I'll just say that the ratings seem to be more correct if you are following Walt W.'s guide and photo posted here and also Beverly's 'Jemez Rock'.

I think that there may be a mix-up in Jackson's 'Rock Climbing: NM', so the climbs' ratings coincide with the route immediately right rather than the line shown for Jackson #17,18,19,20,21,22.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Photo
By: George Perkins When: May 29, 2009

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Comments: There is a newly bolted climb between #4 and #3b (not shown on topo), it is about 5.10-.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side : Overripe Fresh-Squeezed Cal... (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: May 19, 2009

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Comments: The 2 slings are currently fixed on this climb (5/09); with these in place, it's very well-protected.
Update 2/2014: These slings are a bit ratty; and the lower one appears partially torn and I personally wouldn't want to fully trust it as ground fall is a possibility if it were to fail. Maybe they're ok, but it is probably best if they're replaced. As Jason mentions above, a climber relatively solid at the grade might feel okay with the situation.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Mavericks
By: George Perkins When: May 14, 2009

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Comments: For more details on the closure/access in this area of Cimarron Canyon, see this Forum


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Route 32 (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: May 14, 2009

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Comments: Watch out for loose blocks on this dirty route!

With traffic- which it won't see- it would clean up and be interesting for those who seek out offwidths and fist cracks at White Rock, as the physical moves through the overhanging flared crack at the crux are unusual for the area.

Step right at the top, and use the GANSGAGGTOMH anchor for this climb.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: May 10, 2009

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Comments: The above comment of "spicy routefinding" is exaggerated in my opinion, as I found the description in 'Taos Rock' to be plenty good enough, with a photo showing where to go. There are a few options for the 1st pitch; but none of them are going to get you far off-route on difficult/unprotected ground. Chris is right- pitch 2's written instructions are somewhat off- but the photo is unambiguous and there's really only one obvious way to go. Chris's Beta Photo is accurate, a... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Praise the Lunge (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 19, 2009

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Comments: Cams aren't desirable on this climb, in my opinion. (The positioning of the gear may have changed since back in the day, as there are now 5 bolts where it apparently used to be '4 bolts + 1 piton')

The bolt is above your waist for the lunge crux move, so it's easy to go for it.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : Holy Wars (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 19, 2009

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Comments: There are 4 bolts on this route. (Perhaps the 2nd bolt is newer than the guidebooks, which only mention 3?)

The original Samet guide recommends bringing a TCU to go in the crack before the last bolt; I wish I'd known that. Bring a cam (#1 camalot recommended, but slightly smaller is ok), because it's a long ways between the 3rd and 4th bolt. If you get up there and get scared, you can chicken out and go right to Montana Deviate, which I considered.

The moves be... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall
By: George Perkins When: Apr 18, 2009

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Comments: Rad Wall is the finest wall at El Rito, and stays dry in the rain (or snow).


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : High Roof Right (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 13, 2009

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Comments: An alternate start to this climb begins about 6' to the right of the usual start under the high roof; it's a flared corner to a finger crack to the easier cracks on the arete. It's about 5.11-, and appears to have just enough pro down low to make it reasonably leadable (though I haven't tried to lead it yet).


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Direct Start to Bee Sting (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 13, 2009

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Comments: This line is plotted incorrectly in Jemez Rock, but should go as shown in JH's beta photo, I think.

The crack immediately left of this but still right of Momementum (not shown in photo or guidebook) goes at 5.8 with some big loose blocks, and I wouldn't recommend it. It is the climb the guy in this Photo is soloing.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Against Nature (aka Peter's... (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 6, 2009

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Comments: Preclip the 2nd bolt or you will probably deck from 10-12' up, should you fall at the beta-intensive crux. Most people skip the first bolt, as it's hard to clip from the easiest way climbing to its right, and it's almost too low to be useful. This is because the ground level is higher now than when the climb was put up.

Leaders near their limit will find it helpful if they don't have to hang the draw at the redpoint crux (b4/ b3 if you don't count the glue-in first bolt everyone skips).


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: George Perkins When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: Talked to the Ranger Station today (3/31/2009).
Forest Road 289 is still closed.
She said they intend to open the gate sometime between April 15 - May 15, and could not be more specific.
Edit: Gate is open now, see Jason's comment below
Edit 4/19: Road is in good condition for high clearance vehicles, both from the north and the south. A Camry also made it up there, but I'd wouldn't want to drive it with any low clearance nice car that I owned.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada : Route 17 (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 22, 2009

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Comments: If you want to avoid the bouldery cruxy start to this climb but still enjoy the upper half at 5.9: Begin with the blocks/flakes as for climb 18, then move left on the ledge 20' up.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada : Headjam (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 22, 2009

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Comments: The easiest way to climb up to an anchor on this route is to begin as for "Route 21", moving left midway up. Probably this goes at 5.8, as it skips the cruxes of either route.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Pajarito Gorge : Main Wall- Upper Tier : Route 13 (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 22, 2009

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Comments: This climb has a bolt protecting the slab start, which is one of the ways to identify it.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 5. Monster Wall : Heffalump (5.12)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 21, 2009

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Comments: You can skip the crux section on the arete by moving to the shallow dihedral to the left (Cracula) for a couple of bolts. I'd say this bumps it down to 5.12- or maybe 5.11+.

The bottom sequence of this climb is badass.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Mar 19, 2009

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Comments: I've done the approach from the south rim with the rappels. From the overlook, it took 45 minutes or an hour or something to get down to the end of the 4wd road where Arch and Texas Canyon split. Dropping in wasn't bad, but hiking up at the end of the day after getting our asses kicked... sucked. It would have been pretty nice to be camped down at Arch/Texas junction, but we were not sure about the condition of the road in Arch Canyon.

Was looking for any info on the 4wd road in Arch Canyon ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estant... : Gook Magic (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: This climb has a 2-bolt anchor, though the ratty rope/sling probably ought to be replaced, with chains, ideally.

I think I heard somewhere that Walt W. put the anchors in here a while ago, so people in the houses above would be less aware of climbers below.

Rack with nuts & cams up to #2 camalot, with 2 each of #1 camalot helpful.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estant... : Ring of Fire (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: This climb has a 2-bolt anchor with quicklinks. The anchor might benefit from these being replaced with chains.

I think I heard somewhere that Walt W. put the anchors in here a while ago, so people in the houses above would be less aware of climbers below.

Oh yeah- this roof is amazing and way bigger than Lens Roof at the Overlook- wish I could climb it. Getting to the lip is powerful and hard already, and the next 2 moves are still not clear to me.

I'm not a good person for ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Sinewave (aka S Crack) (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 13, 2009

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Comments: This is probably the toughest "5.11" crack at White Rock that sees frequent attempts. S-Crack is way more difficult than all the other 5.11s on this cliff, and substantially harder than Unrelenting Nines at The Playground in my estimation. There are at least 3 different ways I've seen people pass the crux, though some may argue that using any holds more than about 2' away from the crack itself is cheating. Most action is on toprope, but a bunch of people have led this climb, but bew... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Grotto End (R. Side) : Where the Wild Things Aren'... (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 7, 2009

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Comments: I had a lot of trouble clipping the 4th bolt (making the clip was the crux of the climb?). My partner had no trouble- it seems like having your feet in the correct places is crucial.

This is a good climb, and I think the bolt spacing on the climb is excellent. Every time you're just about to get uncomfortably high above the last bolt, it gets easier, and then you clip the next bolt. For all the toughest moves, the bolts are right where you want them.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Flying A (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: I took the .10d grade from 'Jemez Rock' when I posted this climb, but I'll bump it up a notch since most of us think this is too hard for 5.10 too.
Flying A is much tougher than Blow Hole (10c/d). IMO, Nines is harder than this climb due mostly to the pump factor on "9s". I know a few people who climb a lot at White Rock who've redpointed Flying A, but haven't led Nines clean yet.

Some other sandbagged 5.10s that I try to avoid at the Playground:
"T2 Flake"... more >>


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Cakewalk Wall : Cakewalk (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 16, 2009

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Comments: The descent is somewhat confusing, the first time you top out one of these routes.

Descent:
From the top of CakeWalk (after the traverse right), scramble up and over a big chockstone in a corridor behind you. At the end of this corridor downclimb on a steep but easy hueco-covered face into a deeper gash, and scramble east out the other side. Walk down slabs to the north, aiming for the pond (Laguna Prieta).
From the top of 'Son of CW', you may need to rappel/downclimb a short hueco'd face on ... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall : Utopian Vistas (var.) (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 8, 2009

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Comments: This route (with the traverse left at the top) is a good way to finish Stinky Finger if you don't have any cams; but finishing straight up the wide easy crack is more aesthetic with less rope drag, in my opinion.

If you do finish the route by traversing left, one plus is you can throw a TR on the excellent roof-to-arete route Hopper's Hangover.

The first crux on this route (shared with Stinky Finger) is a beautiful mental puzzle where you don't know which side of the arete to be... more >>


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