Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact George Perkins


Point Rank: # 146
Total Points: 3,174
Last Year: 110
Last 30 Days: 7
12 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George Perkins been climbing?










Contributions


All 2483 | Routes 244 | Areas 23 | Photos 29 | Page Improvments 2 | Comments 239 | Posts 66 | Stars 1062 | Ratings 818
Page 6 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : Lower Buttress : Over Easy (aka Goldilocks &... (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This climb was called 'Goldilocks & the 3 Bears' at one of the Meltdown comps, although it's not clear that they knew the "real" name. I don't remember any of the other names used for 'Unknowns' on this buttress.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Las Hermanas
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I found an in-progress guide, which I used to add names to some of the unknown sport climbs. Definitely correct if there are mistakes/add'l info, especially as it could be a while until I get down here again.
www.enchantedtower.com/PrintDrafts/02-Socorro_Preview.pdf
It doesn't have Vaino's new routes, or old lines delineated, so it's not all that helpful.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant F... (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 22, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: (edited) I've redpointed it. I think 12a is consistent with White Rock 12a's, though some of them seem harder and some seem easier than one another. Admittedly I use the crack before clipping the 1st bolt, which seems like the more sensible thing to do, though I've gone directly up to the 1st bolt on TR, which adds a little bit of 10+ or something to the beginning.

I would rank the 5.12-'s at BONP from easiest to hardest as follows:
Inflight Movie < Little Shop < Sardo... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Gilligan's Island (AKA: The... : The Skipper Too (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 28, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This crack seemed easy for 5.8: its published rating; but may be on the hard side of 5.6, especially for those who haven't climbed cracks. The suggested double set of camalots is too much to carry up here for a 40' climb for all but the newest leaders. Because I don't have anything to add to it, I'll stay out of the discussion about the name (or lack thereof...) of this crack.

The anchor appeared to have chains and be just fine for rappelling- however, I downclimbed the next crack s... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : The Trough (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 28, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, Chris, you wanted to traverse right from your high-point (at least, that's how I went).

Basically you want to be climbing the crack system immediately left of Protein Supplement to stay on this route. Yes, it's bushy, and sometimes the rock is suspect. There is indeed a 2-bolt anchor, with tat attached to rings; it is on the left end of the grassy ledge above the Protein Supplement anchor, and wasn't visible until I was right at it. It would probab... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Though the approach described above up the Olive Oil descent gully is no doubt faster, it's also reasonable to get to/from this wall using the 3rd class gully down to its right, from the Challenger Wall/Adventure Punks area.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Pie In Your Eye (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Further complicating things, Rock Climbing: New Mexico lists a climb called 'Pie in Your Eye' as being in the location that Jason's photo and 'Jemez Rock' put 'Bovine Inspiration', and rates it 5.9. That book calls this line 'Unknown 4' and rates it 5.6.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (06) The Dihedral Wall : Quickdraw McGraw (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: There are 2 "last bolts", one on each side of the arete. Use the right one and go to the anchor to the right if you're cleaning the route. Use the left one and go left to the anchor for Baba Louie if you're having a 2nd person follow through the draws.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : 4-Star Arete (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: A good alternate finish to the upper section is the arete to the right of the cracks for Unknown #17 which keeps it more sustained in difficulty.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : Top Hat (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: There is an independent anchor for this climb, 4' up and right of the "Unnamed Left" anchor, which probably makes it a little bit easier to clean but it really doesn't make any difference which anchor you use.

I added the FA info to this route and "Unnamed Right", which someone told me, but wasn't 100% sure about it, so correct me if I'm wrong.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : Racist Fantasy (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: We replaced the disintegrating webbing anchor with links+biners, but chains would definitely be a further improvement.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Mexican Breakfast Formation : Tarantula (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 26, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, John. It felt insecure compared to other 5.10b's in the Sandias, following what I was pretty sure Sandia Rock said was the easier way to go. Nice climb certainly.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall
By: George Perkins When: Aug 9, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The climb left of Grendal is a fairly new climb Josh put up this summer, probably in the lower 5.10 range. Sorry to hear about the loose bolts- that surprises me, and scares me a little bit.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Cherry Pickin' (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: A flake at the upper crux has broken off, making this climb harder than it used to be.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Cyclops (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 22, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: You can also start up Werepig (the next climb to the right) for 3 bolts, then move left to Cyclops for upper half, for a slightly easier (~5.11b) variation to these climbs, bypassing Cyclop's small pocket crux.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras
By: George Perkins When: Jul 20, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: It's tough to feel good when climbing at your limit over 30+ year old rusty 1/4" bolts.

Also, it's important to remember that:
On most climbs at TP, and nearly all of those 5.10 or under, the fixed gear and bolts are in great condition and trustworthy,
despite the reputation this area has unfortunately gained over the years. First time visitors, and climbers staying on 5.10 or easier climbs, should not be discouraged from coming here, and should not worry about bolts.

Here's my take o... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Serpent Face (5.10c PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Re: "Needs a facelift (three years ago)."
All the bolts looked good on this climb today, and seemed ok when I led it last year. It's fine now, not sure when it was upgraded or by whom (thanks by the way). Edit: heard rumors Taos climbers upgraded these bolts a while ago. Thanks guys.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : Napoleon's Angst (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The first bolt is still missing its hanger, but skipping it is not too scary.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Ed Woody : Gridlock (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 12, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is erroneously(?) called "Redline" in Taos Rock.
I didn't see a need to step around to the arete, a lieback from a crack to the right to a big reach and I could just barely clip the chains without any scary/committing moves.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Ed Woody : Redline (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 12, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is erroneously(?) called "Gridlock" in Taos Rock, and I only counted 4 bolts.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Beastie Alley : Unnatural Attraction (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 11, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: You were on the correct climb, Chris. This is the 1st bolted climb on the right side after you enter the Alley.

I'd recommend continuing to the anchor shared with Pony Express, rather than lower off of a single bolt [which, as of 7/19, no longer has a quick-link or leaver biner]. This finish is run out, but easy, or bring a couple pieces of gear.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Hamburger Helper (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 8, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah. I'm pretty sure something came off at the crux. Yesterday I had to throw for a hold that I know I had previously reached statically, probably with higher feet.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : The Balance of Power (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 5, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: IMO, by now, this climb has cleaned up nicely (but like everything at A37, expect some grit and the outer layer to flake off), and it's excellent climbing- almost as good as Leprosy or any of the other 11s at A37.
The start is not as difficult as the 11+ to its left (A Walk in the Park), and, unlike A Walk.., this climb has better stances and holds to clip from for the first 2 bolts, so I like it more.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Evil Elliot (aka Battering ... (5.11c PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This climb seemed substantially easier than the 11c rating given for it in the guidebooks (I used the crack), and I felt the bolt spacing was not something to get worried about.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower : Western Justice (Frontier J... (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 26, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The piton protecting the final crux 8' below the rim came out, pulled it out with my fingers. I did not replace it. I believe this section can be adequately protected with small cams and RPs, but someone may want to replace it before leading.


Page 6 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>