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I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 33 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 146
Total Points: 3,174
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2482 | Routes 244 | Areas 23 | Photos 29 | Page Improvments 2 | Comments 238 | Posts 66 | Stars 1062 | Ratings 818
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Aug 1, 2010

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Comments: This topo (and the Taos Rock topo based on it) are for the most part very useful and accurate, and you should have no problems avoiding getting lost and off-route.
If you venture on most any climb other than "Question of Balance": One thing to be aware of is that the best places to belay, when using a 60m rope, are not always where shown.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Pocket Rocket (5.12a/b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 31, 2010

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Comments: I thought the bolt placement and spacing wasn't too troublesome. The first crux is the weird part, seemed best to climb to the jug, then clip low, rather than clip high off something small. I'd certainly climb it again, it's a pretty good climb.


Location: NM : NMCRAG Meeting July 16th to...
By: George Perkins When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Any news from, or about, this meeting? or the next step forward?
(A number of us in Los Alamos are concerned with this issue but unable to drive to ABQ for this meeting..)


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Double Vision / Ream Dream (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: From the original guide , Double Vision is the face only (arete = off). Ream Dream includes the arete. The name Double Vision cleverly suggests 2 ways to climb it.

For me, there's one hold near the top that is almost on the arete that I pretty much need for the climb to go, but it isn't too hard to avoid the arete the rest of the way.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Chilly Willy Wall : Candy Corn (5.12)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 19, 2010

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Comments: See photos of this climb on the FA's website:
www.vainokodas.com/climbing/nmroutes/chillywilly.html
www.vainokodas.com/climbing/nmroutes/climbphotos/lasconchasp>>>

It's harder than it first appears.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Questar (5.11 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: I trashed Josh's rope when I fell trying to clean gear while on the roof traverse on the crux pitch. If following this pitch, it's probably best to move all the way out to the stance on the prow, then lean back to deal with the pro. If leading this pitch- don't blow it before getting gear in, or you'll fall on your belayer. We cut 12' off the end of the rope at the next belay as a result.

Re: 1/4" bolts. The bolt on p1, Josh Smith replaced a year ago. The bolts on p2 are 1/4" but the climbi... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Bolting Barbie (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: My thoughts on El Rito climbs at approx. this grade:
Peach Cobbler (11c) is harder than BB in my opinion.
El Beerto (11c), Walking the Plank (11c) and a number of other 11c's seem slightly easier.
Jug-or-Naut (11b) and Booty/Longjohn (11b) seem significantly easier.
There aren't many other 11d's to compare. Procrastination (11d/12a) seems harder but is less continuous, and is painful or has a hard clip for me. Stroke Me (11d/12a) is harder, and climbs similarl... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : MF (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: If you do the 2nd pitch, a 2 rope rappel makes for the easiest descent. (There is a somewhat scary intermediate anchor on Birdie Party that might allow for 2 raps with a single rope, or with more effort than its worth you can get to the MF p1 anchor.)

2nd pitch is worth climbing too.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: George Perkins When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: It seemed like it would make sense to combine p1 & the first part of p2, belaying at the 2-bolt anchor (above Roseland?); then a 2nd pitch to the top from there.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Guillotine (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: This climb is probably not where shown in Taos Rock. It should be to the right of the area shown in the photo. Since both books adopted Clarks' names, probably that resource is more accurate. Not that it's a big deal; it will still be 5.5-5.6 by any route.

There's a 2-bolt belay station on a good ledge 55m up, not shown on the topo.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Commie Pinkos (5.4)
By: George Perkins When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: Best to not climb this one, since there's a birds' nest half way up this May.

The climbs to the right are more fun anyway.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area
By: George Perkins When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: The birds' nest' is about halfway up the leftmost climb (Commie Pinkos 5.4). There is an egg? I did climb #3 and never would've known, but others were over there and felt really bad about it and backed off to avoid disturbing them.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Chile Verde (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: The 'correct' line for pitch 1 is probably not where shown in Taos Rock. It should be to the right, where #7 is. Since both books adopted Clarks' names, probably that resource is most accurate. Not that it's a big deal- it's all mostly 5.4-5.6 with intermittent pro.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Serpentine Crack (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: The crux is on the 2nd pitch, which is short. If you climb only to the anchor, and rap off, you miss the crux, but it is still a fun climb; and sets up one of the better beginner toprope climbs at TP. Watch the ends & extend the upper anchor with cordelette if toproping like this with a 60m rope. Better with a 70m, or belay from the anchor. Don't drop someone using a rope that's too short.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock : Unknown (5.8- R)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: (Edited after climbing this in 2012)
In ~2010, this climb was bolted, it now has 2 bolts protecting its crux, and a 2-bolt anchor. I do not feel it is run-out on anything harder than 5.2. You still may want a light rack for the headwall.

A 60m rope does not reach from dirt-to-anchor-to-dirt, but works to lower to the easy slab at the start that some people won't find it at all scary to downclimb from (20' up?)


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : The Runway : Flight Simulator (5.12-)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: A 70m rope is recommended (or trail a 2nd rope). (A 60m rope is probably too short if you lower through the draws; it might reach if you rappel or unclip the draws as you lower?)

Nice new climb. Still a little bit of flaky stuff coming off like any new climb here, but super fun cruxes each requiring different tricks to get through.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Holy Wall (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 5, 2010

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Comments: Slightly easier if you use the crack to the left at the first crux (2nd to 3rd bolt), or a foot on the face left of that crack. One book says this reduces the rating to 5.9, though I think it's still probably 5.10- overall considering the pump at the sequency upper crux.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Apple Cobbler (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: This is one of those climbs where it's not clear what's "on" and what's "off".

The guides suggest this is 10c if you stay off the right side of the arete. A lot of the best holds in the upper half, and the last bolt, are basically on the arete itself, and it's pretty tempting to reach around the corner farther. It's super contrived and significantly harder than 10c in my opinion if you force yourself to stay left, and avoid all the possibly-cheating arete holds.

Obviously if you step around ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall
By: George Perkins When: Apr 2, 2010

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Comments: Many people stick-clip the 2nd bolt on these routes.

Fixed steel biners have been put on the chains on a number of these climbs recently, to make it easier to lower off and won't be worn out as quickly as the aluminum ones that were there.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Wailing Banshees (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 2, 2010

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Comments: The last 2 bolts have been replaced recently. Thank Jason if you see him.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Evil Paradise Area : El Areto Bolto Del Diablo (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 28, 2010

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Comments: This new climb should become popular, with its airy location, intriguing moves, and bolts closer together than the older climbs in the Grotto. We'll see, though, as it's just a little bit farther walk to get to it.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park
By: George Perkins When: Feb 24, 2010

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Comments: An online version of a guide to Sugarite is posted on the Cimarron, NM Chamber of Commerce webpage: here linked to from it's main page: www.cimarronnm.com/recreation.html#rockclimb


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments:
Daniel Trugman wrote:
Are the bolts relatively new or of the old 1/4 inch variety?
All bolts on this route are fairly new (3/8") and no cause for concern. The guidebooks warn people about old bolts at Questa in general, but that is really a non-issue on most climbs here, though a few old bolts are still around.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : Lower Buttress : Scrambled (aka Bob's Route) (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010

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Comments: In Bob Kamp's tribute route database it notes that Kamps climbed what was likely this route in 1993, and referred to it as "Bob's Route". I'm not sure which Bob bolted this line, though; at least 2 people with that name have put up climbs at WR (D'Antonio, Steuwe, ??).


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : Lower Buttress : Over Easy (aka Goldilocks &... (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010

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Comments: This climb was called 'Goldilocks & the 3 Bears' at one of the Meltdown comps, although it's not clear that they knew the "real" name. I don't remember any of the other names used for 'Unknowns' on this buttress.


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