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I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 145
Total Points: 3,267
Last Year: 147
Last 30 Days: 51
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2614 | Routes 246 | Areas 23 | Photos 32 | Page Improvements 16 | Comments 254 | Posts 71 | Stars 1109 | Ratings 863
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Training Wall : Just Another Pretty Face (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 29, 2012

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Comments: FA Alisa Hadfield
abqjournal.com/sports/2012/06/...


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock
By: George Perkins When: Nov 27, 2012

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Comments: "Cowgirl Pump" (5.11a R). One guidebook shows it left of the "Bats in the Belfry" crack, the other shows it to the right. It's supposed to have a bolt on the steep part, which I looked for, but didn't see. Anyone climbed this and can point me in the right direction?


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock : Bats in the Belfry (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was a great climb, one of the best cracks at TP. The scramble off the top of Middle Rock adds to the experience. The alternate finish to the left, on the chickenheads and jugs, is really fun, though a little harder (5.9 or 5.10-).


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Trash Tower : Trash Compactor (5.12-)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 23, 2012

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Comments: 6' of easy climbing to a good rest, then a great, sequential, 3-move V3 boulder problem at the 2nd bolt, probably harder for short people, another good rest, then the 5.10+ finish of Weenies.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Icarus (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: Icarus is the most obvious & straight-up line of the 3 climbs sharing its start. The first pitch is high quality, 105', and a good warm-up for the Solar Cave climbs. You can rappel from the pitch 1 anchors with a single 60m rope, but it might not reach if lowering through the draws. A 70m would work.

I didn't try the 2nd pitch because I thought I might not be able to get down with a single 60m rope, based on the length listed. But it looks shorter than p1 in the photos & bolt count, so pleas... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Cholla Wall (5.10a/b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: Though I think more people should be open-minded to leading Cholla Wall because it is pretty proud/memorable, I was definitely intimidated prior to doing so. Here's the warnings:
  • Don't fall at the start (1st crux). It's a boulder problem before you get your first pro.
  • Don't fall at the top (2nd crux). I've heard of 2 big falls from up there, and the gear in the highest pocket is tricky and perhaps not fully trustworthy.
  • Don't try to onsight Cholla Wall if 5.10 is hard for you, or if you'r...
 more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: I've been working on this a bunch this summer and got on it again this evening. I haven't sent yet and it's significantly harder than anything I've climbed, so my opinion probably isn't worth much. I think the 4th bolt is in the ideal place if you clip it off the 1st jug after the crux; if it was much lower you would probably just clip it off the same holds used to clip the 3rd bolt, which is at waist level at that time and takes minimal effort. The easiest beta (I think, and what I... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crankenstein (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: In April 2012, 3 bolts were 1/4" (one of them was the last bolt a few feet right of the anchor, which isn't as important as the others); the other 4 were bigger. I think the crux was protected by a more modern bolt, but don't remember for sure.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Tendon Bendin' (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: This climb's a tougher version of Crimp Chimp, steep and relentless with no distinct crux. Despite a scary 2nd clip off the smallest hold on the climb (consider stick-clipping this), and a demoralizing finish due to the difficulty of clipping the chains while pumped, this climb is great if you enjoy steep climbing. I'm not sure its much more tweaky or painful than other mid/upper-5.12s at the Dungeon.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Crimp Chimp (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Stickclip bolt 2 if 12a is hard for you, especially if you don't have the beta dialed. The technical crux (just before bolt 2) appears to be somewhat height/reach-dependent, and the 2nd clip can be dicey sometimes. Angle right after clipping the 3rd bolt to stay on Crimp Chimp, which starts what is generally the redpoint crux. Although most find it a bit more difficult than the other popular 12-'s, Against Nature and Moat Jump, strong people who regularly climb steep stuff ma... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Gangland (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: 2 useful holds were recently broken off at the upper (slab) crux at the 2nd-to-last bolt, making the climb somewhat harder (edited 9/2014, as a 2nd hold just broke recently)

Other beta:
This is another one at the Dungeon on which you don't want to blow it before clipping the 2nd bolt, and it's fairly sequency to get there, so one may want to stick-clip b2 if you don't feel confident up to that point.

The 1st crux clip (b4) is considerably easier if a draw (long is better) is already hanging.

... more >>


Location: Colorado : Diamond : Post : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: Great photo of us!!!!

I am unknown green guy. My partner, unknown red guy, is Lee H.from Colo. Spgs.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: George Perkins When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: The road was not gated or blocked coming from the north yesterday.


Location: NM : Taos Area : John Dunn Bridge Area : The New New Buffalo
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage has more beta on this area:
climbingschoolusa.com/newroute...


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Photo
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Info for Amole can be found on Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage:
climbingschoolusa.com/newroute...


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Info on many of the new routes in Comales Canyon is listed on Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage:
climbingschoolusa.com/newroute...


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Gothic Pillar (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Has this climb been bolted as a sport climb?
(I received an email asking that question, but I haven't been to Comales recently.)


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 1. Bat Cave : Crystal Therapy (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: May 12, 2012

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Comments: Stick clip highly recommended. I had more difficulty than I typically have on 12a with the crux at the first bolt but powerful moves with no feet don't suit my style so don't take my opinion for much value if you're strong.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Voyage of the Beagle (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: Hi Amy, Nice photos! I'm unknown guy in green. I was climbing with Chris from Los Alamos (unknown guy in red). Sorry we missed you.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon : Texas Tower
By: George Perkins When: Mar 15, 2012

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Comments: The available descent info on Texas Tower is a bit vague, or the descent is not obvious. Perhaps that adds to the experience.

When Josh S. and I climbed this in 4/09, we missed the 2nd rap station, left our own gear somewhere on the east face, but 1 rap later eventually joined up with the bolted anchors of the East Face route.

I thought maybe we were just chumps, but it looks like we weren't the only ones to get confused on the rappels, as I saw Kalous and Thesenga's trip report: ttp://www.t... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : No Exit (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: I had written off "No Exit" as dumb for a while, but got on this route a couple of times in the last month or so and have a more favorable impression now. While the easier bottom half is dirty, the crux at the top is clean and a fun sequence. I think my beta for the crux clips is different. I clip the 2nd-to-last bolt from below, leaning to the right from the obvious crack/seam. I clip the last bolt at waist-level after reaching the decent hold at the lip. Clip the chains after 1 or 2 more ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : Y - North Side : Open Book (5.8+)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: This is one of the more varied and interesting entry-level cracks at the Y (or all of White Rock), I agree.

Many people seem to get frustrated with this climb, especially the start. Even though it's nominally rated only 5.8+, people with little experience on cracks seem to have troubles. (It might be a little tougher for short people, or those with smaller hands/fingers.) I guess that is what I was hinting at when I wrote the description.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : The Amphitheater : AMS (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 29, 2011

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Comments: Other than Pogue's Arete, this is the most overhanging 5.11 I've climbed in NM.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Sardonic Smile (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 14, 2011

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Comments: Don't be too put off by the above description- dirty holds aren't too much of an issue (but maybe my standards are low or maybe it's seen recent traffic?). It's an aesthetic face, isn't contrivedly close to cracks, and isn't heinously sharp like many harder routes at WR. For these reasons, I think this is my favorite of those on the right side of this crag. I think the above beta may not be the best: I started left of the first bolt.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Emerald City (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: May 15, 2011

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Comments: FA info from Hill's guide:
Emerald Hiway (= Emerald Road?): Gillis-Rix, 6/85
Sapphire: Gillis-Rix, 6/85
Emerald City: Hicks-Lewis, '86
Revenge of the Elderly: Holcomb-Riley 5/87
Surf's Up: Leonard-Benyak, 5/88

Seems possible Emerald City was still unclimbed when you were on Emerald Road in '86, with that and Sapphire to its right being the only 2 established lines. (Emerald City being climbed later, sharing the 1st pitch with Emerald Road, with the 2nd pitch following a seam between the two rou... more >>


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