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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : The Runway : Flight Simulator (5.12-)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 70m rope is recommended (or trail a 2nd rope). (A 60m rope is probably too short if you lower through the draws; it might reach if you rappel or unclip the draws as you lower?)
Nice new climb. Still a little bit of flaky stuff coming off like any new climb here, but super fun cruxes each requiring different tricks to get through.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Holy Wall (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slightly easier if you use the crack to the left at the first crux (2nd to 3rd bolt), or a foot on the face left of that crack. One book says this reduces the rating to 5.9, though I think it's still probably 5.10- overall considering the pump at the sequency upper crux.
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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Apple Cobbler (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of those climbs where it's not clear what's "on" and what's "off".
The guides suggest this is 10c if you stay off the right side of the arete. A lot of the best holds in the upper half, and the last bolt, are basically on the arete itself, and it's pretty tempting to reach around the corner farther. It's super contrived and significantly harder than 10c in my opinion if you force yourself to stay left, and avoid all the possibly-cheating arete holds.
Obviously if you step around ... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall
By: George Perkins When: Apr 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Many people stick-clip the 2nd bolt on these routes.
Fixed steel biners have been put on the chains on a number of these climbs recently, to make it easier to lower off and won't be worn out as quickly as the aluminum ones that were there. Thank James if you see him.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Wailing Banshees (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last 2 bolts have been replaced recently. Thank Jason if you see him.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Evil Paradise Area : El Areto Bolto Del Diablo (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This new climb should become popular, with its airy location, intriguing moves, and bolts closer together than the older climbs in the Grotto. We'll see, though, as it's just a little bit farther walk to get to it.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park
By: George Perkins When: Feb 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: An online version of a guide to Sugarite is posted on the Cimarron, NM Chamber of Commerce webpage: here linked to from it's main page: www.cimarronnm.com/recreation.html#rockclimb
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Jemez Falls
By: George Perkins When: Feb 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jemez Falls has been closed by the forest service, citing damage to the ecology around the Jemez Falls campground. "Closed to all use" signs are at the gate for the road in to the campground (the shortest approach). Also if you hike in on trail 137 from either the East Fork Trailhead or Battleship Rock, you will also run into "Trail Closed" signs eventually (although no info was posted at the trailheads).
The memo posted under each of these signs says this closure started in late October '09.... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Daniel Trugman wrote: Are the bolts relatively new or of the old 1/4 inch variety?
The main reason the Bear Mtn. Massacre route is cool is that it's basically the only real climb under 5.10 here, so climbers who aren't up for the main Dome routes can experience ... more >>
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Caballo Lake/ T or C : Bat Cave Area
By: George Perkins When: Jan 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A map for the driving directions can be found on Beverly Mountain Guide's webpage:
www.beverlymountainguides.com/file_download/13/bat_cave_beve>>>
It doesn't show mining claims or anything like that though.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : Lower Buttress : Scrambled (aka Bob's Route) (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In Bob Kamp's tribute route database it notes that Kamps climbed what was likely this route in 1993, and referred to it as "Bob's Route". I'm not sure which Bob bolted this line, though; at least 2 people with that name have put up climbs at WR (D'Antonio, Steuwe, ??).
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : Lower Buttress : Over Easy (aka Goldilocks &... (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb was called 'Goldilocks & the 3 Bears' at one of the Meltdown comps, although it's not clear that they knew the "real" name. I don't remember any of the other names used for 'Unknowns' on this buttress.
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Major Wall Area : Las Hermanas
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found an in-progress guide, which I used to add names to some of the unknown sport climbs. Definitely correct if there are mistakes/add'l info, especially as it could be a while until I get down here again.
www.enchantedtower.com/PrintDrafts/02-Socorro_Preview.pdf
It doesn't have Vaino's new routes, or old lines delineated, so it's not all that helpful.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant F... (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: (edited) I've redpointed it. I think 12a is consistent with White Rock 12a's, though some of them seem harder and some seem easier than one another. Admittedly I use the crack before clipping the 1st bolt, which seems like the more sensible thing to do, though I've gone directly up to the 1st bolt on TR, which adds a little bit of 10+ or something to the beginning.
I would rank the 5.12-'s at BONP from easiest to hardest as follows:
Inflight Movie < Little Shop < Sardo... more >>
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Gilligan's Island (AKA: The... : The Skipper Too (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This crack seemed easy for 5.8: its published rating; but may be on the hard side of 5.6, especially for those who haven't climbed cracks. The suggested double set of camalots is too much to carry up here for a 40' climb for all but the newest leaders. Because I don't have anything to add to it, I'll stay out of the discussion about the name (or lack thereof...) of this crack.
The anchor appeared to have chains and be just fine for rappelling- however, I downclimbed the next crack s... more >>
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : The Trough (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, Chris, you wanted to traverse right from your high-point (at least, that's how I went).
Basically you want to be climbing the crack system immediately left of Protein Supplement to stay on this route. Yes, it's bushy, and sometimes the rock is suspect. There is indeed a 2-bolt anchor, with tat attached to rings; it is on the left end of the grassy ledge above the Protein Supplement anchor, and wasn't visible until I was right at it. It would probab... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Though the approach described above up the Olive Oil descent gully is no doubt faster, it's also reasonable to get to/from this wall using the 3rd class gully down to its right, from the Challenger Wall/Adventure Punks area.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Holthouse to Hell (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Bruce & Mike, for bringing one of the best lines at TP up to modern standards.
And for sorting out which was the right line for Holthouse to Hell too. (I made some edits to the description to avoid confusion.)
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall area : Pie In Your Eye (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Further complicating things, Rock Climbing: New Mexico lists a climb called 'Pie in Your Eye' as being in the location that Jason's photo and 'Jemez Rock' put 'Bovine Inspiration', and rates it 5.9. That book calls this line 'Unknown 4' and rates it 5.6.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (06) The Dihedral Wall : Quickdraw McGraw (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 2 "last bolts", one on each side of the arete. Use the right one and go to the anchor to the right if you're cleaning the route. Use the left one and go left to the anchor for Baba Louie if you're having a 2nd person follow through the draws.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : 4-Star Arete (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good alternate finish to the upper section is the arete to the right of the cracks for Unknown #17 which keeps it more sustained in difficulty.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sure you're right, Scott (and you should know having bolted it). I moved the photo and corrected the caption.
Great photo of a great climb.
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Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : Top Hat (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is an independent anchor for this climb, 4' up and right of the "Unnamed Left" anchor, which probably makes it a little bit easier to clean but it really doesn't make any difference which anchor you use.
I added the FA info to this route and "Unnamed Right", which someone told me, but wasn't 100% sure about it, so correct me if I'm wrong.
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Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : Racist Fantasy (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We replaced the disintegrating webbing anchor with links+biners, but chains would definitely be a further improvement.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Mexican Breakfast Formation : Tarantula (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, John. It felt insecure compared to other 5.10b's in the Sandias, following what I was pretty sure Sandia Rock said was the easier way to go. Nice climb certainly.
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