Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
a


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact George Perkins


Point Rank: # 145
Total Points: 3,170
Last Year: 116
Last 30 Days: 29
11 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George Perkins been climbing?










Contributions


All 2461 | Routes 244 | Areas 23 | Photos 29 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 237 | Posts 63 | Stars 1054 | Ratings 810
Page 4 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : No Exit (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 12, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I had written off "No Exit" as dumb for a while, but got on this route a couple of times in the last month or so and have a more favorable impression now. While the easier bottom half is dirty, the crux at the top is clean and a fun sequence. I think my beta for the crux clips is different. I clip the 2nd-to-last bolt from below, leaning to the right from the obvious crack/seam. I clip the last bolt at waist-level after reaching the decent hold at the lip. Clip the chains after 1 or 2 more ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : Y - North Side : Open Book (5.8+)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This is one of the more varied and interesting entry-level cracks at the Y (or all of White Rock), I agree.

Many people seem to get frustrated with this climb, especially the start. Even though it's nominally rated only 5.8+, people with little experience on cracks seem to have troubles. (It might be a little tougher for short people, or those with smaller hands/fingers.) I guess that is what I was hinting at when I wrote the description.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : The Amphitheater : AMS (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 29, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Other than Pogue's Arete, this is the most overhanging 5.11 I've climbed in NM.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Sardonic Smile (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Don't be too put off by the above description- dirty holds aren't too much of an issue (but maybe my standards are low or maybe it's seen recent traffic?). It's an aesthetic face, isn't contrivedly close to cracks, and isn't heinously sharp like many harder routes at WR. For these reasons, I think this is my favorite of those on the right side of this crag. I think the above beta may not be the best: I started left of the first bolt.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Emerald City (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: May 15, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: FA info from Hill's guide:
Emerald Hiway (= Emerald Road?): Gillis-Rix, 6/85
Sapphire: Gillis-Rix, 6/85
Emerald City: Hicks-Lewis, '86
Revenge of the Elderly: Holcomb-Riley 5/87
Surf's Up: Leonard-Benyak, 5/88

Seems possible Emerald City was still unclimbed when you were on Emerald Road in '86, with that and Sapphire to its right being the only 2 established lines. (Emerald City being climbed later, sharing the 1st pitch with Emerald Road, with the 2nd pitch following a seam between the two rou... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada : Huevos Verdes (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 4, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The 5.12b grade seems more accurate, without using the cracks, on this contrived climb.
Additional gear might not really be needed for most 5.11/5.12 climbers; it's about 30' of 5.7 to the first bolt.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : 5.8 Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 28, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I didn't try to sell anyone on this climb.

I guess I meant: it has the feel of a climb harder than 5.8, and the pro at the crux is below you, small, or weird. Maybe it's the gear or the crumbly rock, but the crux section looks improbable and you stare at it for a while, then you actually commit to it, and it's not too bad. Just my impression. I'd say it's harder than Headwall Right Crack, or Cholla Crack, but easier than Holy Crack.

Was the stopper I ret... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Wildcat (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 22, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Clipping the last bolt seems to be the crux.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Squeeze Chimney (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 22, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: There are 2 crack climbs right of Bosker Boozeroos.
The 1st crack just right of Boozeroos is an open book, about 5.8, not listed in the guides. This is the line marked as #2 in the Route Topo Photo.
The 2nd crack to the right is the 5.10+ climb marked as "Squeeze Chimney" in the guidebooks. It is the slot to the crack on the smooth face right of the corner. It angles left to the corner near the top. This line isn't shown in the Photo.
Both climbs can be done from the same... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Sewer Crag : Hey, Is There Anybody In Th... (5.12a PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Don't stay off this one just because you didn't bring gear. It's 15' of super easy choss to one ~5.8 move to clip the first bolt, but the rock is crumbly and you don't want to fall so tread carefully.

The rest of the climb is really good, with good rock, & quite steep for White Rock.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Way Beyond Zebra (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I like to go past the 1st anchor to the 2nd anchor, as this gives the climb a few more interesting moves. The guidebook says doing so is the difference between 11a and 11b (I'm not sure it's a letter grade worth, but it is of course harder to continue). If you stop at the first anchor the crux is clipping the chains. The rope drag when TRing off the high anchor is an issue though.

I'm too much of a wuss to skip any bolts, even though they are close enough that Z-clipping can be a concern.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: We thought this climb was pretty good, definitely has its share of wide climbing but protectable enough with one or two big cams. The beta & topo in the new Supertopo guidebook seemed mostly right on.

I'm a little confused with the above description, seemed like we climbed something like:
P1: Start in sandy alcove, step right into wide crack, climb a right-facing corner to a bolted belay on a ledge for pitch 1 (180', 5.11-, some wideness);
P2: Right-facing corner with OW to hands ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Pulpit (5.5 C1)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is more like 120'. You need 2 ropes to descend (or 2 rappels using the intermediate anchor should work).

The books say this climb goes free at 5.11, but the bolts on the crux bolt ladder section at the start are mostly old/scary and the free line isn't right in line with them.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Out to Lunch (5.10b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 22, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the advice and info John. Sounds like I will have to try going straight up next time. (Both times I'd been on this, the crux was exciting enough we were looking for the easiest way up after.)


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Oct 14, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: There is another new sport climb recently added to this wall, between #4 and #5 (not shown on the topo), and can be identified by its fixed chain draw. It's in the mid-5.12 range, in my hangdogging estimation.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Alioth : Aerial Boundaries (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 8, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: J., I'm a little confused by your comment. I don't know if you're talking about this route or an overall ethic. Maybe you've climbed this and have different impressions; but Jason and I thought that the pins look mostly good, it's a few of the bolts that would be candidates to replace with other bolts. (As I said above, I don't think they're "time-bombs" or anything though.) If you're suggesting to replace the fixed pins with bolts- that sounds like a lot of unnecessary work that would... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Fin : Exhibition Wall (5.10b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 28, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is one of the few short ones off the La Luz that's shaded in the afternoon, along with the longer Thumb routes on the face above the trail, if you're looking for one more pitch on a hot day.

One of the ring pins was loose when I climbed this last year, but they are close together and other gear is available.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Hole in the Wall : Another Pair of New Shoes (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 27, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The old "Hikers & Climbers Guide" may be mixed up with this climb. It lists it as 5.13a, and shows an independent bolted first pitch to this climb left of Ms. Piggy, which isn't there I think.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Bovine Inspiration (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 24, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: There is an alternate 2-bolt variation start just to the right of the normal start of this climb that bypasses the first crux (making the route easier: 5.8?).

There is also a single bolt above the 2-bolt anchor, which one could use to set a TR or to drop down the few feet to the anchor to set a TR.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Pie In Your Eye (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 17, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: There's a new 5.11 extension to this route ("Filet On"), with 6 additional bolts (9 or 10 total).
www.vainokodas.com/climbing/nmroutes/cattlecallwall.html


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering
By: George Perkins When: Aug 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: It's closed at the first gate as you start up the first hill on FS 269 (San Juan Rd.), within a couple hundred yards of turning off the paved road (290) and crossing the small stream.

I don't know the reasons behind this, or when/if it will reopen. (You may be able to hike in from the gate, or from the Pond, but maybe they don't want people hiking in either.)

No problem getting to the Pond (or Satellite).


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: FS road 269 is currently gated (August 2010), with a sign that says "Closed for Resource Protection". This would make it a hassle to get to the Corral, Range, Booty Box, Sweat Box.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering : The Corral
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: FS road 269 is currently gated (August 2010), with a sign that says "Closed for Resource Protection".


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Alioth : Aerial Boundaries (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 7, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The grade IV rating reflects the original rating, and the overall commitment- including the descent. One could easily suggest it's only a Grade III at 6 pitches, but grade IV by Sandia/desert standards seems fair to me. (I didn't feel like climbing anything else afterward...)

This climb felt comparable to Voodoo Child in difficulty for its technical crux, but this felt more "heads-up" and less straight-forward overall... and just as good.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Aug 1, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: This topo (and the Taos Rock topo based on it) are for the most part very useful and accurate, and you should have no problems avoiding getting lost and off-route.
If you venture on most any climb other than "Question of Balance": One thing to be aware of is that the best places to belay, when using a 60m rope, are not always where shown.


Page 4 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>