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Member Since: May 25, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 144
Total Points: 3,136
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All (2428) | Routes (242) | Areas (23) | Photos (28) | Comments (231) | Posts (58) | Stars (1044) | Ratings (802)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Wildcat (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 22, 2011

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Comments: Clipping the last bolt seems to be the crux.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Squeeze Chimney (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 22, 2011

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Comments: There are 2 crack climbs right of Bosker Boozeroos.
The 1st crack just right of Boozeroos is an open book, about 5.8, not listed in the guides. This is the line marked as #2 in the Route Topo Photo.
The 2nd crack to the right is the 5.10+ climb marked as "Squeeze Chimney" in the guidebooks. It is the slot to the crack on the smooth face right of the corner. It angles left to the corner near the top. This line isn't shown in the Photo.
Both climbs can be done from the same... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Sewer Crag : Hey, Is There Anybody In Th... (5.12a PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2010

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Comments: Don't stay off this one just because you didn't bring gear. It's 15' of super easy choss to one ~5.8 move to clip the first bolt, but the rock is crumbly and you don't want to fall so tread carefully.

The rest of the climb is really good, with good rock, & quite steep for White Rock.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Way Beyond Zebra (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 4, 2010

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Comments: I like to go past the 1st anchor to the 2nd anchor, as this gives the climb a few more interesting moves. The guidebook says doing so is the difference between 11a and 11b (I'm not sure it's a letter grade worth, but it is of course harder to continue). If you stop at the first anchor the crux is clipping the chains. The rope drag when TRing off the high anchor is an issue though.

I'm too much of a wuss to skip any bolts, even though they are close enough that Z-clipping can be a concern.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: We thought this climb was pretty good, definitely has its share of wide climbing but protectable enough with one or two big cams. The beta & topo in the new Supertopo guidebook seemed mostly right on.

I'm a little confused with the above description, seemed like we climbed something like:
P1: Start in sandy alcove, step right into wide crack, climb a right-facing corner to a bolted belay on a ledge for pitch 1 (180', 5.11-, some wideness);
P2: Right-facing corner with OW to hands ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Pulpit (5.5 C1)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: This climb is more like 120'. You need 2 ropes to descend (or 2 rappels using the intermediate anchor should work).

The books say this climb goes free at 5.11, but the bolts on the crux bolt ladder section at the start are mostly old/scary and the free line isn't right in line with them.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Out to Lunch (5.10b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 22, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the advice and info John. Sounds like I will have to try going straight up next time. (Both times I'd been on this, the crux was exciting enough we were looking for the easiest way up after.)


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Oct 14, 2010

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Comments: There is another new sport climb recently added to this wall, between #4 and #5 (not shown on the topo), and can be identified by its fixed chain draw. It's in the mid-5.12 range, in my hangdogging estimation.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Alioth : Aerial Boundaries (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 8, 2010

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Comments: J., I'm a little confused by your comment. I don't know if you're talking about this route or an overall ethic. Maybe you've climbed this and have different impressions; but Jason and I thought that the pins look mostly good, it's a few of the bolts that would be candidates to replace with other bolts. (As I said above, I don't think they're "time-bombs" or anything though.) If you're suggesting to replace the fixed pins with bolts- that sounds like a lot of unnecessary work that would... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Fin : Exhibition Wall (5.10b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: This climb is one of the few short ones off the La Luz that's shaded in the afternoon, along with the longer Thumb routes on the face above the trail, if you're looking for one more pitch on a hot day.

One of the ring pins was loose when I climbed this last year, but they are close together and other gear is available.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Hole in the Wall : Another Pair of New Shoes (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: The old "Hikers & Climbers Guide" may be mixed up with this climb. It lists it as 5.13a, and shows an independent bolted first pitch to this climb left of Ms. Piggy, which isn't there I think.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Bovine Inspiration (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 24, 2010

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Comments: There is an alternate 2-bolt variation start just to the right of the normal start of this climb that bypasses the first crux (making the route easier: 5.8?).

There is also a single bolt above the 2-bolt anchor, which one could use to set a TR or to drop down the few feet to the anchor to set a TR.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Pie In Your Eye (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 17, 2010

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Comments: There's a new 5.11 extension to this route ("Filet On"), with 6 additional bolts (9 or 10 total).
www.vainokodas.com/climbing/nmroutes/cattlecallwall.html


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering
By: George Perkins When: Aug 11, 2010

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Comments: It's closed at the first gate as you start up the first hill on FS 269 (San Juan Rd.), within a couple hundred yards of turning off the paved road (290) and crossing the small stream.

I don't know the reasons behind this, or when/if it will reopen. (You may be able to hike in from the gate, or from the Pond, but maybe they don't want people hiking in either.)

No problem getting to the Pond (or Satellite).


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: FS road 269 is currently gated (August 2010), with a sign that says "Closed for Resource Protection". This would make it a hassle to get to the Corral, Range, Booty Box, Sweat Box.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering : The Corral
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: FS road 269 is currently gated (August 2010), with a sign that says "Closed for Resource Protection".


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Alioth : Aerial Boundaries (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 7, 2010

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Comments: The grade IV rating reflects the original rating, and the overall commitment- including the descent. One could easily suggest it's only a Grade III at 6 pitches, but grade IV by Sandia/desert standards seems fair to me. (I didn't feel like climbing anything else afterward...)

This climb felt comparable to Voodoo Child in difficulty for its technical crux, but this felt more "heads-up" and less straight-forward overall... and just as good.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Aug 1, 2010

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Comments: This topo (and the Taos Rock topo based on it) are for the most part very useful and accurate, and you should have no problems avoiding getting lost and off-route.
If you venture on most any climb other than "Question of Balance": One thing to be aware of is that the best places to belay, when using a 60m rope, are not always where shown.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Pocket Rocket (5.12a/b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 31, 2010

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Comments: I thought the bolt placement and spacing wasn't too troublesome. The first crux is the weird part, seemed best to climb to the jug, then clip low, rather than clip high off something small. I'd certainly climb it again, it's a pretty good climb.


Location: NM : NMCRAG Meeting July 16th to...
By: George Perkins When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Any news from, or about, this meeting? or the next step forward?
(A number of us in Los Alamos are concerned with this issue but unable to drive to ABQ for this meeting..)


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Double Vision / Ream Dream (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 23, 2010

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Comments: From the original guide , Double Vision is the face only (arete = off). Ream Dream includes the arete. The name Double Vision cleverly suggests 2 ways to climb it.

For me, there's one hold near the top that is almost on the arete that I pretty much need for the climb to go, but it isn't too hard to avoid the arete the rest of the way.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Chilly Willy Wall : Candy Corn (5.12)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 19, 2010

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Comments: See photos of this climb on the FA's website:
www.vainokodas.com/climbing/nmroutes/chillywilly.html
www.vainokodas.com/climbing/nmroutes/climbphotos/lasconchasp>>>

It's harder than it first appears.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Questar (5.11 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: I trashed Josh's rope when I fell trying to clean gear while on the roof traverse on the crux pitch. If following this pitch, it's probably best to move all the way out to the stance on the prow, then lean back to deal with the pro. If leading this pitch- don't blow it before getting gear in, or you'll fall on your belayer. We cut 12' off the end of the rope at the next belay as a result.

Re: 1/4" bolts. The bolt on p1, Josh Smith replaced a year ago. The bolts on p2 are 1/4" but the climbi... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Bolting Barbie (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: My thoughts on El Rito climbs at approx. this grade:
Peach Cobbler (11c) is harder than BB in my opinion.
El Beerto (11c), Walking the Plank (11c) and a number of other 11c's seem slightly easier.
Jug-or-Naut (11b) and Booty/Longjohn (11b) seem significantly easier.
There aren't many other 11d's to compare. Procrastination (11d/12a) seems harder but is less continuous, and is painful or has a hard clip for me. Stroke Me (11d/12a) is harder, and climbs similarl... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : MF (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: If you do the 2nd pitch, a 2 rope rappel makes for the easiest descent. (There is a somewhat scary intermediate anchor on Birdie Party that might allow for 2 raps with a single rope, or with more effort than its worth you can get to the MF p1 anchor.)

2nd pitch is worth climbing too.


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