Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact George Perkins


Point Rank: # 145
Total Points: 3,202
Last Year: 116
Last 30 Days: 32
12 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George Perkins been climbing?










Contributions


All 2512 | Routes 244 | Areas 23 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 244 | Posts 66 | Stars 1071 | Ratings 827
Page 3 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Renaissance/ Lower Rosie (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I placed a thin finger size cam to help me get to the first bolt.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Lower Grotto : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Aug 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I had considered whether to chime in, but will anyway, as the situation has me finding some introspection for these reasons:
-I recommended to Jason Y. just that day that Chopping Block was "not clasic, but worth doing if that's the grade you're looking for, nothing wrong with it". I don't feel responsibility, but I'm glad the injury was thankfully not more serious and the big block went with only a near miss. I could just have easily said "climb a different one instead, there are better routes ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Garden Party (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Prior to beginning this climb, move the belay down to the notch (rather than starting at the Bush Shark Spire bolted anchor). It's something like a 15' 4th class downclimb to get there. This is a good strategy as it's a long pitch and there will be some rope drag due to the traverse.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Ergo (5.12a/b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The difficulty of the crux can be greatly reduced by moving right to the "Branching Out" corner for a few moves which seems a reasonable way to go, but definitely a bit off the bolt line; I'd put it in the 5.11- range.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Observatory Wall (Upper Tie... : Luna Lumina (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Space Shuttle seems the best approach, it goes directly to the belay anchors. One could also do the best part of Luna Lumina by starting on the first few bolts of The Skyline Arete, after climbing KSR to approach its belay station.

When the splitter tips crack ends and you have to step left to the next thin crack, it's pretty committing.

I didn't clip The Skyline Arete bolts, but they were kind of tempting and within reach. The crack is near-perfect parallel, so the tiny cams (#0 TC... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Toast (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Bouldery crux off a tiny crimp up high, maybe I misread it, but I felt this was the hardest of the 11s (and /12s) at Comales.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Red River Area : Roadside Distraction : Middle of the Road (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The 2nd pitch (or extension) is "Highway Men" 5.10b
climbingschoolusa.com/newroute...

I haven't climbed it.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Think you'd need 2 ropes to rap off from pitch 4, and it might be more straight-forward to go down Voodoo Child rather than Mountain Momma. Is 1 70m rope ok? Anyone know more? I guess that info might be useful for people bailing off for unplanned reasons as well. I'd kind of thought about doing 2 climbs on Torreon but never tried. Maybe in September..


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Block Ridge : Last Goodbye (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: re: rapping Trundle Wall to approach.

We recently rapped in Top Flite with a single 60m rope (3 rappels). Shouldn't need to leave gear, except at the top anchor, which you could retrieve on the way out. We replaced the cord on the anchors. The last rap isn't ideal (wiggly pin + fixed nut); we backed that up with a non-weighted cam, then cleaned it when we climbed out.

If rapping S&S, would need to leave gear for the 2nd rappel (one bolt only at the top of p2), and 70m rope needed.... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area
By: George Perkins When: Jun 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Approach options:
1) Walk down the main Echo Canyon gully, hugging the left side, passing Techweenie Buttress. Not too bad. Fastest way to walk to the base.
2) Walk down the gully just left (north) of Big T. Not too bad, but more bushwhacking than (#1). Fastest way to walk back to the base from the top.
3) Rappel in by Big T (4 raps off 2-bolt anchors, with 70m rope). Need to leave long runner/cordelette on only the highest rappel point; all others are fully equipped. Good if you... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Ghost Rider (5.10 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb. To find the start, look for a bolt 15' up; it's on the big wall to the right of the Bush Shark Spire tower (not on the tower itself, and before you turn the corner into the side canyon with Westeron Wynde).


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Crossroads (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: May 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: -Pitch 1 starts a bit to the right of where shown in the Sandia Rock photo.
-Pitch 3 roof is sketchy!*
-I missed the traverse right on pitch 4. Did the 10b variation in Sandia Rock, straight up to the roof, turned it on the left, then up a tree and a higher tree. We thought that roof was really fun! And easier than 10b. Some loose rocks up at the high tree (be very careful*).
-Overall, I felt this was a pretty fun climb, with some very nice crack climbing. However, it has intricate route-find... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Trundle Wall : Splinted and Screwed (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: May 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: With one 60m rope, it worked nicely to approach this climb by rapping down "Top Flite". With a 70m, rap "S&S", since the bolted anchors are better on "S&S".


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : True Grit (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Cleaned up by now, in my opinion, though still not immaculate. Way cleaner than 5 years ago. Devious in places, with multiple cruxes. The most sustained & hardest overall climb at this cliff, well worth doing if this is your grade.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Unnamed (5.8+)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Admittedly I bouldered/solo'ed it when I climbed and posted this one.
The crux is near the ground and crashpads probably protect it better than anything else (other than a TR). The upper part is easy but high enough to get hurt. I don't know if it counts as a boulder problem or a TR climb? (I just posted as per the book).


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Training Wall : Just Another Pretty Face (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: FA Alisa Hadfield
abqjournal.com/sports/2012/06/...


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock
By: George Perkins When: Nov 27, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: "Cowgirl Pump" (5.11a R). One guidebook shows it left of the "Bats in the Belfry" crack, the other shows it to the right. It's supposed to have a bolt on the steep part, which I looked for, but didn't see. Anyone climbed this and can point me in the right direction?


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock : Bats in the Belfry (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this was a great climb, one of the best cracks at TP. The scramble off the top of Middle Rock adds to the experience. The alternate finish to the left, on the chickenheads and jugs, is really fun, though a little harder (5.9 or 5.10-).


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Trash Tower : Trash Compactor (5.12-)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 23, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: 6' of easy climbing to a good rest, then a great, sequential, 3-move V3 boulder problem at the 2nd bolt, probably harder for short people, another good rest, then the 5.10+ finish of Weenies.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Icarus (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 12, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Icarus is the most obvious & straight-up line of the 3 climbs sharing its start. The first pitch is high quality, 105', and a good warm-up for the Solar Cave climbs. You can rappel from the pitch 1 anchors with a single 60m rope, but it might not reach if lowering through the draws. A 70m would work.

I didn't try the 2nd pitch because I thought I might not be able to get down with a single 60m rope, based on the length listed. But it looks shorter than p1 in the photos & bolt count, so pleas... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Cholla Wall (5.10a/b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Though I think more people should be open-minded to leading Cholla Wall because it is pretty proud/memorable, I was definitely intimidated prior to doing so. Here's the warnings:
  • Don't fall at the start (1st crux). It's a boulder problem before you get your first pro.
  • Don't fall at the top (2nd crux). I've heard of 2 big falls from up there, and the gear in the highest pocket is tricky and perhaps not fully trustworthy.
  • Don't try to onsight Cholla Wall if 5.10 is hard for you, or if you'r...
 more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I've been working on this a bunch this summer and got on it again this evening. I haven't sent yet and it's significantly harder than anything I've climbed, so my opinion probably isn't worth much. I think the 4th bolt is in the ideal place if you clip it off the 1st jug after the crux; if it was much lower you would probably just clip it off the same holds used to clip the 3rd bolt, which is at waist level at that time and takes minimal effort. The easiest beta (I think, and what I... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crankenstein (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 23, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: In April 2012, 3 bolts were 1/4" (one of them was the last bolt a few feet right of the anchor, which isn't as important as the others); the other 4 were bigger. I think the crux was protected by a more modern bolt, but don't remember for sure.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Tendon Bendin' (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This climb's a tougher version of Crimp Chimp, steep and relentless with no distinct crux. Despite a scary 2nd clip off the smallest hold on the climb (consider stick-clipping this), and a demoralizing finish due to the difficulty of clipping the chains while pumped, this climb is great if you enjoy steep climbing. I'm not sure its much more tweaky or painful than other mid/upper-5.12s at the Dungeon.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45 Boulder : Crimp Chimp (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Stickclip bolt 2 if 12a is hard for you, especially if you don't have the beta dialed. The technical crux (just before bolt 2) appears to be somewhat height/reach-dependent, and the 2nd clip can be dicey sometimes. Angle right after clipping the 3rd bolt to stay on Crimp Chimp, which starts what is generally the redpoint crux. Although most find it a bit more difficult than the other popular 12-'s, Against Nature and Moat Jump, strong people who regularly climb steep stuff ma... more >>


Page 3 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>