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I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 146
Total Points: 3,230
Last Year: 123
Last 30 Days: 34
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George Perkins been climbing?










Contributions


All 2555 | Routes 245 | Areas 23 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements 11 | Comments 247 | Posts 69 | Stars 1087 | Ratings 842
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side : Overripe Fresh-Squeezed Cal... (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Currently, no chains on the anchor. It would be easy to leave slings and clean them from above on the hike out, though.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Gnosis (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 8, 2014

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Comments: Bring a #0.5 camalot or a stick clip to protect the hard start.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Gingivitis (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: The crack that forms the left side of the Gingivitis "pillar" and goes to the same anchor was pretty fun, 5.11- or so. (It's not listed in the book.)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Polygrip (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Length is ~115'. A 60m rope did not reach. A 70m would.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unnamed 5.10: Route 41 ( 46... (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: My 60m rope was long enough, but it was close.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pino Wall & Jawbone : Pino Wall : Red Dawn (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: -The last 2 pitches are great. The first 1+1/2 pitches are not so good, but its possible we were off-route on p1. (Too far right maybe? It worked, it wasn't a big deal.)
-We didn't see a bolt on p2.
-On the last pitch, going straight to the first bolt seemed contrived. I stayed in the nice hand crack, then, at about the level of the first bolt, traversed right. Though I couldn't clip that bolt, I was still able to get to the hand crack pillar and the last 2 bolts on the final headwall. Also, ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Mitchell Trail Area : Clifty : Thanksgiving Rock Right (Ia... (5.7 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: In addition to the anchors, this climb was retro bolted in the last 5 years or so. New lead protection bolts are on p2 (where the threaded sling used to be), and on the top pitch.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Sardonic Smile (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: This climb was dirty today. (edit: and today 11/11/14)


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Dread Pirate Roberts (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: RPs might protect the boulder problem start. If it seems uncomfortable, use a stick to drop in a bigger nut above. Or go up the lightning bolt OW to the right.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Adiós Alemanes (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: A #6 camalot is recommended. You'd have to run it out to the anchor, like 15' or something, without that (or a big bro).


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Prior to posting this area, it was discussed with Access Fund, Jemez District of the FS, and some people from NM Crag. All said that climbing here was an acceptable use of our national forest wilderness areas. Still, one can't help but be a little concerned that something could go wrong.

I'm glad the info on the area is publicly available; it's cool to see people from ABQ climbing here now. I'm hopeful that more visitation will in fact be viewed as a good thing by the FS. I'm also... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: That's correct, "David". We were reluctant to share the area publicly in light of the Crystal Cave situation on the other side of the Jemez, and the bolt/power-drill issues in the Sandias. (Ultimately, we hope that sharing the info will help long-term access.) Hopefully, we (climbers) can avoid fucking up here.

And, we've seen no sign of archaeology at, or near, the cliffs.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : History Lesson (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: The micro nut seam has a bolt, so you're not relying on RPs anymore to keep you from big air, though they may be worth bringing anyway especially if you might have to pull through on gear. It's generally finger-size and larger gear the rest of the way.
(The bolt is above where the old "Cochiti mesa"-era 2-piton anchor was. When Josh, Calita, and I climbed this, we hadn't yet talked to anyone who climbed here 20 years earlier. I continued past the old anchor and aided a chossy bird-shit roof t... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Loctite (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Josh helped clean this crack and was the first to lead the elegant crux first pitch clean (with Calita, Mick and Zoe Schein, and myself) a few hours after Calita and I climbed it to the rim. As I remember, the 2nd pitch was fun as well (in my biased opinion). We rapped off a tree at the top (probably toasted now), using 2 60m ropes. You could walk over and rappel from an anchor for a different climb if you need to.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Physical (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: The FA of the 2nd pitch was Josh Smith & Matt Balkey, a while after the first pitch was done.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Monkey Spank (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: FA: Josh Smith, Steve DiMarino, Mandy Smith (unless they climbed it in the 80s and kept going through the yuck above to the rim)


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Tree Hugger (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Not sure about the anchor situation post-2011 Las Conchas fire. If the trees no good and you don't have a drill, you might have to leave gear or climb a short chossy-looking pitch to get to the rim.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Gauntlet (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: The crux was originally protected by a shitty pin, instead of a bolt, when josh first freed this.
RPs and small nuts are useful if you have to cheat at the crux.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Silver City (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Consider splitting p1 into 2 pitches to reduce drag.
You can rap down from the pretty good first pitch from the anchor for the climb to its left on the midway sloping ledge with 1 60m rope and some easy downclimbing.
The FA of the so-so upper half (p2) and FFA of p1 was Steve DiMarino and myself.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Perkolater (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: The original first 20' of sketchy choss I climbed to start this climb was trundled. Thus the deal with bolts being later added, then considered "not worth it", compared to the next crack left. If anyone wants to fix this in some way, I don't care what you do. (It might be okay enough to be worth another look.)


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Fists of Fury (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Runout at the crux. Maybe a big-bro would protect it. Additional big cams would have been helpful at other places too.

From the finish of this route, we climbed to the cliff top by the big left-facing corner a bit to the right. (Don't bother.)


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Divisions (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: This is #12 in the route list, where it is called "Pandora's Box", which was a mistake. Josh named it "Divisions", which (I think) we both like better.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Wiretap (5.10c PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Maybe I missed something, but I didn't find any places where I wished I had a #5, #4, or #3 Camalot. I felt like were 5.10- sections where you don't want to fall (run-out, or tricky/so-so gear).
The old Hill guidebook shows 2 variations to Wiretap, with the left line passing the piton and bolt listed at 10b, and a line slightly to the right at 10c. There seemed to be a lot of options as far as moving left or right along horizontals in this section of cliff.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: As expected, some people seem to really love this place while others really don't.
Bring 3-4 sets of cams including some wide gear, a helmet, extra water and sunblock. Tape is advised. 2 ropes is best for the Main Wall, 1 is usually enough for the shorter walls. The hike back to the car is burly.

Estimates of hiking times: 30 minutes approach, 45 minutes return. Maybe a little longer the first time. (Steep & loose. Wear real shoes. If you're put off by Sandia approaches, you won't like thi... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Suicidal Society (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Bring a few long runners, because this line takes a sharp traverse left after leaving the 4th or 5th bolt shared with Icarus. There is one bolt at the end of the left-traverse (from the abandoned line between this and "ILL"?), which you could clip but might want to skip or back clean, to avoid rope drag.
(Also, I couldn't figure out the 2nd roof on p1, and I'm usually ok on 11+ at Diablo, but it was hot and I was tired. Seemed hard/weird though. I bailed to the "ILL" finish.)


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