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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 145
Total Points: 3,170
Last Year: 116
Last 30 Days: 29
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2461 | Routes 244 | Areas 23 | Photos 29 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 237 | Posts 63 | Stars 1054 | Ratings 810
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Loctite (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Josh helped clean this crack and was the first to lead the elegant crux first pitch clean (with Calita, Mick and Zoe Schein, and myself) a few hours after Calita and I climbed it to the rim. As I remember, the 2nd pitch was fun as well (in my biased opinion). We rapped off a tree at the top (probably toasted now), using 2 60m ropes. You could walk over and rappel from an anchor for a different climb if you need to.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Physical (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: The FA of the 2nd pitch was Josh Smith & Matt Balkey, a while after the first pitch was done.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Monkey Spank (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: FA: Josh Smith, Steve DiMarino, Mandy Smith (unless they climbed it in the 80s and kept going through the yuck above to the rim)


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Tree Hugger (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Not sure about the anchor situation post-2011 Las Conchas fire. If the trees no good and you don't have a drill, you might have to leave gear or climb a short chossy-looking pitch to get to the rim.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Gauntlet (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: The crux was originally protected by a shitty pin, instead of a bolt, when josh first freed this.
RPs and small nuts are useful if you have to cheat at the crux.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Silver City (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Consider splitting p1 into 2 pitches to reduce drag.
You can rap down from the pretty good first pitch from the anchor for the climb to its left on the midway sloping ledge with 1 60m rope and some easy downclimbing.
The FA of the so-so upper half (p2) and FFA of p1 was Steve DiMarino and myself.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Perkolater (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: The original first 20' of sketchy choss I climbed to start this climb was trundled. Thus the deal with bolts being later added, then considered "not worth it", compared to the next crack left. If anyone wants to fix this in some way, I don't care what you do. (It might be okay enough to be worth another look.)


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Fists of Fury (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Runout at the crux. Maybe a big-bro would protect it. Additional big cams would have been helpful at other places too.

From the finish of this route, we climbed to the cliff top by the big left-facing corner a bit to the right. (Don't bother.)


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Divisions (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: This is #12 in the route list, where it is called "Pandora's Box", which was a mistake. Josh named it "Divisions", which (I think) we both like better.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Wiretap (5.10c PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Maybe I missed something, but I didn't find any places where I wished I had a #5, #4, or #3 Camalot. I felt like were 5.10- sections where you don't want to fall (run-out, or tricky/so-so gear).
The old Hill guidebook shows 2 variations to Wiretap, with the left line passing the piton and bolt listed at 10b, and a line slightly to the right at 10c. There seemed to be a lot of options as far as moving left or right along horizontals in this section of cliff.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: As expected, some people seem to really love this place while others really don't.
Bring 3-4 sets of cams including some wide gear, a helmet, extra water and sunblock. Tape is advised. 2 ropes is best for the Main Wall, 1 is usually enough for the shorter walls. The hike back to the car is burly.

Estimates of hiking times: 30 minutes approach, 45 minutes return. Maybe a little longer the first time. (Steep & loose. Wear real shoes. If you're put off by Sandia approaches, you won't like thi... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Suicidal Society (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Bring a few long runners, because this line takes a sharp traverse left after leaving the 4th or 5th bolt shared with Icarus. There is one bolt at the end of the left-traverse (from the abandoned line between this and "ILL"?), which you could clip but might want to skip or back clean, to avoid rope drag.
(Also, I couldn't figure out the 2nd roof on p1, and I'm usually ok on 11+ at Diablo, but it was hot and I was tired. Seemed hard/weird though. I bailed to the "ILL" finish.)


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: The rappel is 30m. A single 60m rope works. However, a fixed line is usually present.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Wizard of Air (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: Fun climb! A few notes from a recent climb:
-P1 looks a little contrived initially, as it leads you on thin face just to the left of a chossy loose 5.8-looking crack to the right. However, it climbs really well. It is a little run-out near the top. Someone had told me to skip this pitch and scramble up the gully around the corner to the right and just walk the ledge to the start of p2 (as for Wizard of Odd), but I was glad we climbed it.
-P4, the crux, we felt the easiest sequen... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Rogue Warrior (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: I had to start a bit to the left, using the "Moat Pump" underclings; this makes the first "Rogue Warrior" bolt out of reach. (Of course you could stick clip it, or maybe the one above.) This avoids the incredibly bouldery direct start under the bolt line, which I just wasn't seeing a mid-5.12 sequence.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Renaissance/ Lower Rosie (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: I placed a thin finger size cam to help me get to the first bolt.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: I had considered whether to chime in, but will anyway, as the situation has me finding some introspection for these reasons:
-I recommended to Jason Y. just that day that Chopping Block was "not clasic, but worth doing if that's the grade you're looking for, nothing wrong with it". I don't feel responsibility, but I'm glad the injury was thankfully not more serious and the big block went with only a near miss. I could just have easily said "climb a different one instead, there are better routes ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Garden Party (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Prior to beginning this climb, move the belay down to the notch (rather than starting at the Bush Shark Spire bolted anchor). It's something like a 15' 4th class downclimb to get there. This is a good strategy as it's a long pitch and there will be some rope drag due to the traverse.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Ergo (5.12a/b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: The difficulty of the crux can be greatly reduced by moving right to the "Branching Out" corner for a few moves which seems a reasonable way to go, but definitely a bit off the bolt line; I'd put it in the 5.11- range.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Early Wall - Right End : Luna Lumina (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2013

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Comments: Space Shuttle seems the best approach, it goes directly to the belay anchors. One could also do the best part of Luna Lumina by starting on the first few bolts of The Skyline Arete, after climbing KSR to approach its belay station.

When the splitter tips crack ends and you have to step left to the next thin crack, it's pretty committing.

I didn't clip The Skyline Arete bolts, but they were kind of tempting and within reach. The crack is near-perfect parallel, so the tiny cams (#0 TC... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Toast (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Bouldery crux off a tiny crimp up high, maybe I misread it, but I felt this was the hardest of the 11s (and /12s) at Comales.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Red River Area : Roadside Distraction : Middle of the Road (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: The 2nd pitch (or extension) is "Highway Men" 5.10b
climbingschoolusa.com/newrouteinformation/nmnewrouteroadside>>>

I haven't climbed it.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Think you'd need 2 ropes to rap off from pitch 4, and it might be more straight-forward to go down Voodoo Child rather than Mountain Momma. Is 1 70m rope ok? Anyone know more? I guess that info might be useful for people bailing off for unplanned reasons as well. I'd kind of thought about doing 2 climbs on Torreon but never tried. Maybe in September..


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Block Ridge : Last Goodbye (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: re: rapping Trundle Wall to approach.

We recently rapped in Top Flite with a single 60m rope (3 rappels). Shouldn't need to leave gear, except at the top anchor, which you could retrieve on the way out. We replaced the cord on the anchors. The last rap isn't ideal (wiggly pin + fixed nut); we backed that up with a non-weighted cam, then cleaned it when we climbed out.

If rapping S&S, would need to leave gear for the 2nd rappel (one bolt only at the top of p2), and 70m rope needed.... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area
By: George Perkins When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Approach options:
1) Walk down the main Echo Canyon gully, hugging the left side, passing Techweenie Buttress. Not too bad. Fastest way to walk to the base.
2) Walk down the gully just left (north) of Big T. Not too bad, but more bushwhacking than (#1). Fastest way to walk back to the base from the top.
3) Rappel in by Big T (4 raps off 2-bolt anchors, with 70m rope). Need to leave long runner/cordelette on only the highest rappel point; all others are fully equipped. Good if you... more >>


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