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I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 145
Total Points: 3,267
Last Year: 147
Last 30 Days: 51
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2622 | Routes 246 | Areas 23 | Photos 32 | Page Improvements 16 | Comments 254 | Posts 71 | Stars 1113 | Ratings 867
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: George Perkins When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Grotto Left (East), L->R:
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d
Chopping Block S 5.11a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8
Diabolical S 5.11c
Evil S 5.10d
Good S 5.10b
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d
Affirmative Action S 5.11a
Muscle Crow S 5.12b/c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d
Bedeviled S 5.11c/d
Evil Paradise S 5.10c
Hidden Slab S 5.10a
Panic Attack T 5.9 PG13
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little P... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: I called the ranger station today and they said St. Peter's Dome road would re-open in late April or early May.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: This goes mostly free at "5.10 A0/C1" (or 5.12 if freed). If you wanted to aid the 5.10 finger and hand crack you could do that too. A drilled angle protects the moves into the finger crack at the start. It is all well-protected 5.10 free climbing until the 2nd or 3rd pin in the bolt ladder, where it becomes well-protected aid/5.12 climbing. The drilled angles seemed trustworthy. You can aid the bolt ladder by standing in and pulling on slings. Cool summit and rad rappel!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains
By: George Perkins When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: I've heard of people seeking out beta for a traverse of the Organ Mtns. These links may help, as will contacting local climbers. Looks exhausting.
publications.americanalpineclu...
aac-publications.s3.amazonaws....


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: This climb appears to have been cleaned up/modernized recently:
  • The bolts on the 5.10+ var. start were replaced with modern bolts.
  • 2 additional 2-bolt anchors were installed (just right of the tree before the slab traverse, where Extraction goes right; and at a stance 1/2-way up the last pitch). These allow for a rappel descent with a single 60 or 70m rope using only nice bolted anchors. Not trees, not single bolts, nothing sketchy, though there may be little to spare on some rappe...
 more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth
By: George Perkins When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: 2 new sets of bolted anchors were added recently.

The best descent from the Tooth is 5 rappels down Tooth Fairy with (1) 70m rope or 60m rope. A 60m rope will be a rope-stretcher on some rappels. Compared to having 2 shorter ropes, using a single rope is less weight on the burly approach and is less likely to get snagged on trees and around blocks.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: This looks like South Rock's north side. Great photo of a beautiful climbing spot.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Neanderthal (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Neanderthal's 5.11 upper thin face headwall is similar in difficulty and scariness to the upper parts of the 2 climbs to its left (Cromagnon, and, to a lesser extent, Lucy). As with Cromagnon, it's well-bolted but there's a lot of rope out by then, and it's hard for the belayer to see what's happening because of the overhang.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : SOL Man (aka Not In the End... (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: My 70m rope didn't reach, I had to untie & downclimb from the 1st bolt (not that big of a deal). But another groups' 70m rope did reach. Be careful.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Coffee Shop (aka Quickstop) : Route 2 (5.8-)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: Awkward and physical at its wide-crack start, I'd suggest it would be frustrating for beginners. Should protect ok with a standard rack to 4".


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Chicken Chop Suey (5.9+ R)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: This has to be one of the longest, and most sustained wide cracks in the Sandias.

The wide pitches protect adequately with 2 ea. cams from #4-#6; the crux section is #6-sized. A bold leader with considerable experience on 5.9+ OW might be okay with 1 of each size cam and thoughtful back-cleaning.

We did 4 pitches to the grassy 'bivi ledge', as the books suggest, which seemed to make sense to us (this is listed as 3 pitches above); belaying at the bolted a... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Francisco, on which routes are the anchors "questionable"? (I had one surprise out here, pulled a glue in out with no effort). The rock at Capulin is (at best) generally softer than at most other New Mexico areas, and is sometimes really crumbly. The reason some threads are showing is likely because of (a) bumps in the wall behind so the hanger can't lie as close to the wall, or (b) bolt/sleeve not tightening down as readily, due to soft rock. It's not ideal, but bolts might sometimes be clos... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T...
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: +1 i think Disturbing's idea re: organization would be more user friendly, the main Shack cliff seems more like a single wall to me. -GP


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Meltdown (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Fun climb. If one is willing to deviate off the bolt line, it can be made easier.
-It's possible to avoid the crux (or do an easier version of it) after clipping the last bolt by moving left rather than climbing straight up to the anchor.
-Good rests (kneebars & jugs) can be found around bolt 3 by moving right to or almost to the chossy wide crack.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park
By: George Perkins When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Guidebook info for Sugarite has been moved, is now posted here:
cimarronnm.com/uploads/2/3/9/7...


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Oak Creek Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: The link to the online guide referenced above no longer works.

(Edit: To those who sent me a copy or offered to- THANKS!)


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall
By: George Perkins When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: The climb between Chronostasis and Crestone Puddin' is Better than a Slap in the Belly with a Wet Fish 5.10-. It was finished in the last few days. I didn't climb it but a few other people have already.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Cobbles of Ill Repute (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: The tag at the bottom is labelled correctly as "Cobbles of Ill Repute", and the anchor has lowering biners, as of sometime recently.
(I also liked it better on my 2nd time on it, and found it harder & cleaner than I remembered.)


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: The tag at the bottom is correctly labeled "Goiter Grabber", as of sometime recently.

There is a new climb, 10+ "Bloody Turnip", to the left of "Goiter Grabber", between it and the 5.9.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: The formation in center is called "The Castle" and is just north of Muralla Grande. Info on 4 routes on it is in the old Hill book.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall
By: George Perkins When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: This is a great cliff for moderate (9-10ish) sport climbs. Very long (95'), and as good as El Rito Sport Area's best at that grade. Thanks for cleaning up a cool crag!
Still some flakes and rocks will come off. Don't belay directly below the climber, and wear a helmet when belaying!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Techtonics (5.11+ R)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Protects reasonably but some air time is possible if you fall in the wrong places. Bolts protect the majority of the climb. I clipped Techweenie's 1st bolt, and placed a small-med stopper (#7 HB offset?) after bolt 3 but otherwise just clipped bolts. I did run it out at the top but it's after the hard climbing is done (a mid-size cam would be ok there too). Very good climb, like Techweenie.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Evil Alchemist (5.13a)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: 6 bolts (5 if stick-clipping b2 or skipping the first- shared with Siege Warfare- to minimize drag).
With good beta, including 2 knee bars, I found this was more doable than Beastmaster (12c/d) but harder than Siege Warfare (12c/d). More than 1 way to do the crux, so don't get discouraged.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: The 1st bolt on p3 was replaced and is new. Thanks. The 2nd is still old, but unlikely to be fallen on hard.

There is not a bolt on the "normal way" for p1 (as described above). The fixed gear on this pitch, if done the normal way, is: 3 pins just before and turning the crux bulge/roof, then another fixed pin just before the belay.

It is apparently possible to roll over left to a bolt then face climb up (rather than turning the crux bulge). This is the "original 1st pitch", shown on the [[or... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Even though the 5th bolt has no hanger currently- it's nothing to worry about. The climbing there is easy and the bolt below is still close. Guessing someone will replace it soon anyway, but don't avoid this climb in the interim. If you can climb the start, the missing bolt won't bother you.


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