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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 2696 | Routes 247 | Areas 22 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements 36 | Comments 264 | Posts 85 | Stars 1142 | Ratings 895
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Route 17 (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I climbed this again, and didn't notice the missing flake as making it that much harder, and maybe a little better. However, I have always felt this was a hard 5.9, especially on lead. A large brassie is pretty crucial gear at the crux.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Runway (Lower Tier) : You're Scaring the Horses (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: 5 days ago

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Comments: This climb probably ought to be on the page with the Upper Tier routes. It's confusing enough telling what's what on the Runway with all the new climbs, and a single L-R list is most helpful using the app.

Ditto for La Naris too, but "You're scaring the Horses" is very close to the Observatory Wall proper.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area
By: George Perkins When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: There are no climbs of that quality and steepness here.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Lawyers, Guns & Money (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: The FA info on this route was not included in either the Hill or Schein Sandia guidebooks; I've updated with the info you provided. Most of the time, FA info was not omitted deliberately.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : India (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Hi Rich, thanks for your kind words; it was a fun adventure. I'd recommend it, but the truth is anything else on this side of the Crestones is probably just as good. When we (me and Josh- who posted this climb) climbed India, we didn't see any hardware or signs of anything else on the buttress itself (or the steep next buttress to its right). However, see the notes below. Along with the Roach 14er book, I've found Bueler's "Roof of the Rockies" to be the most detailed resource for info... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Fowl Play (5.10 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Re: "There Is a River" (Hicks/Thomas 1988)
It's rated 5.9 in Hill's book, with a vague description ("crack system on the face right of Aviary Ort, then up through vegetation to the top", not any more specific).
I emailed Gary Hicks and asked about "There Is A River", as my buddy Josh put up "Fowl Play" and I knew he'd be interested if it had been climbed previously.
We learned "There Is A River" climbs a crack just right of Aviary Ort. The 1st pitch goes up a fairly vertical licheny crack. It p... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Cryin' in the Rain (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: For a TP 5.9, this climb passes into some unlikely terrain and has some adventure to it.

Regarding the various finishes, after you gain the obvious left-trending ramp ledge 60' up, it looks like there are 3 options (R->L, in the order you reach them as you continue up and left).
a) the flake to bolt, shared with the top of Holthouse in a Haulbag, this is what's described in the current guidebook, option (2) above, best for rope drag, might feel harder than 5.9
b) slab to a newer bo... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crankenstein (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: Patrick, I'm sorry if I sandbagged you when I posted the route descriptions & ratings after I climbed this and the climb to its left a few years ago. I posted the rating from the book. They felt hard for the grade to me as well, but I had good reasons why I wouldn't be climbing at my best that day and clipping old bolts doesn't make me more confident. I haven't yet gotten back to Techweenie Buttress, but I did think these were worth repeating.

Think I'll switch it to the less specific "5.11", ... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 1. Bat Cave : Path to Enlightenment (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: A link-up/variation splits off left after the 2nd bolt, passing an independent 3rd bolt, linking into Fang Shui. (I didn't know which 3rd bolt to climb to.)

Didn't notice an issue with the 4th bolt as mentioned above, but didn't look very hard though.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
By: George Perkins When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments:
Stuart Turner wrote:
What's up with Holthouse Hallsack?
I climbed most of "Holthouse Hallsack" recently, it is pretty good. Look for fixed pins and a small right facing corner to the right of "Holthouse to Hell Direct" and about 10' to the right of a bolted line ("Bolts to Nowhere"'s direct start, called "In Step"); this is all left of "Dirty Black Nightmare". The start is down and left of the first fixed pin and looks harder than it is. A #0.4 or #0.5 cam in an o... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Gary: There aren't any new bolted anchors on Yataghan. Thanks for the stories, hope you'll add more.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side
By: George Perkins When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: The East Side approach trail starts from the back right side of the gravel pit. We parked there without any issues. When the river is low, it would be shorter to park on the West, then cross the river.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Seamingly Hard (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: There was an accident and rescue on the climb ca. 2009. 2 or 3 additional bolts were added after that occurred. The new bolts sort of also protected the R/X/TR climb to the right of p1 called Drunken Master, and it was suggested that the "new climb" be called "Seamingly Drunk". It's possible that the line that most people will climb now may not be 100% true to the original "Seamingly Hard" line.

Mick may have got this info on the new bolts from me, as I sent him some notes on fixed gear and ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : Southeast Face (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Reed, the ring pin on the last pitch is stamped with your initials (RC), so it is probably yours (and has been there 55 years).


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Water Stains (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Unlike most of the other "moderates" more than 2 pitches long in the Sandias, Water Stains has wonderful rock quality throughout and none of the bushes or choss pitches that are ubiquitous on most other comparable routes here. Worthy of more traffic, but unlikely to see it because it is runout in sections and because of the extra effort required to approach it.

3rd edition of Hill's Sandia guide seems to be marked correctly, it doesn't have the mistake mentioned above.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall
By: George Perkins When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: A 5.10 climber looking to get way up high might consider climbing partial link-ups of these routes, like:
-the first pitch of Sun Devil (5.9) then the 2nd pitch of Seventh Sun (5.10)
-the first pitch of Heat Seeker (5.9), then the next 2 of Suntoucher (5.10, 5.10)


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Sun Devil Crack (5.9 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Some (2?) new bolts protect the wider section on the last pitch.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: The road has reopened. It's in pretty good shape, even likely passable for a motivated driver with low-clearance 2wd (but bring a vehicle with clearance if you have a choice).


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Venarete (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: I found the start up to and past the 2nd bolt to be reasonable. I didn't notice any mandatory holds disintegrating.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions : Los Huevos
By: George Perkins When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: Some climbs are missing from the list here.
There is a climb between Puerto de Luna and Pumping Huevos, coming out of the shallow cave.
There is a red tagged climb on the left side, and anchors for another route (not bolted yet) left of that.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions : Los Huevos : La Parkita (5.12d)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: A really useful hold broke at the crux, might be harder now.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: This goes mostly free at "5.10 A0/C1" (whatever a bolt ladder is). Or 5.12 if freed. If you wanted to aid the 5.10 finger and hand crack you could do that too. A drilled angle protects the moves into the finger crack at the start. It is all well-protected 5.10 free climbing until the 2nd or 3rd pin in the bolt ladder, where it becomes well-protected aid/5.12 climbing. The drilled angles seemed trustworthy. You can aid the bolt ladder by standing in and pulling on slings. Cool summit and rad ... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains
By: George Perkins When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: I've heard of people seeking out beta for a traverse of the Organ Mtns. These links may help, as will contacting local climbers. Looks exhausting.
publications.americanalpineclu...
aac-publications.s3.amazonaws....


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: This climb appears to have been cleaned up/modernized recently:
  • The bolts on the 5.10+ var. start were replaced with modern bolts.
  • 2 additional 2-bolt anchors were installed (just right of the tree before the slab traverse, where Extraction goes right; and at a stance 1/2-way up the last pitch). These allow for a rappel descent with a single 60 or 70m rope using only nice bolted anchors. Not trees, not single bolts, nothing sketchy, though there may be little to spare on some rappe...
 more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth
By: George Perkins When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: 2 new sets of bolted anchors were added recently.

The best descent from the Tooth is 5 rappels down Tooth Fairy with (1) 70m rope or 60m rope. A 60m rope will be a rope-stretcher on some rappels. Compared to having 2 shorter ropes, using a single rope is less weight on the burly approach and is less likely to get snagged on trees and around blocks.


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