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I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 146
Total Points: 3,229
Last Year: 122
Last 30 Days: 45
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2552 | Routes 245 | Areas 23 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements 11 | Comments 246 | Posts 69 | Stars 1086 | Ratings 841
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Chicken Chop Suey (5.9+ R)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: This has to be one of the longest, and most sustained wide cracks in the Sandias.

The wide pitches protect adequately with 2 ea. cams from #4-#6; the crux section is #6-sized. A bold leader with considerable experience on 5.9+ OW might be okay with 1 of each size cam and thoughtful back-cleaning.

We did 4 pitches to the grassy 'bivi ledge', as the books suggest, which seemed to make sense to us (this is listed as 3 pitches above); belaying at the bolted a... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Thicker than Water (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: It may make sense to update this description with that for the 5.10+ 1st pitch (Unknown Crack Right of "Working Class Hero", which I added to MP.com a while back) and note this as a 2-pitch route.
Feel free to copy or incorporate any of the description I wrote for that page, and delete the other route entry (Unknown Crack Right of "Working Class Hero").


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Francisco, on which routes are the anchors "questionable"? (I had one surprise out here, pulled a glue in out with no effort). The rock at Capulin is (at best) generally softer than at most other New Mexico areas, and is sometimes really crumbly. The reason some threads are showing is likely because of (a) bumps in the wall behind so the hanger can't lie as close to the wall, or (b) bolt/sleeve not tightening down as readily, due to soft rock. It's not ideal, but bolts might sometimes be clos... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: +1 for Disturbing's organizational suggestion to make this more user-friendly. (Possibly keeping the 3 Upper Tier climbs separate, or lumping them with Observatory Wall.)

Edit after climbing here yesterday:
I think combining these "sectors" would be especially helpful, as they merge together:
A) Venarete area + Right Side Grotto Entrance
B) Evil Paradise area + Grotto End Left side


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T...
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: +1 i think Disturbing's idea re: organization would be more user friendly, the main Shack cliff seems more like a single wall to me. -GP


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Meltdown (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Fun climb. If one is willing to deviate off the bolt line, it can be made easier.
-It's possible to avoid the crux (or do an easier version of it) after clipping the last bolt by moving left rather than climbing straight up to the anchor.
-Good rests (kneebars & jugs) can be found around bolt 3 by moving right to or almost to the chossy wide crack.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park
By: George Perkins When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Guidebook info for Sugarite has been moved, is now posted here:
cimarronnm.com/uploads/2/3/9/7...


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Oak Creek Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: The link to the online guide referenced above no longer works.

(Edit: To those who sent me a copy or offered to- THANKS!)


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall
By: George Perkins When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: The climb between Chronostasis and Crestone Puddin' is Better than a Slap in the Belly with a Wet Fish 5.10-. It was finished in the last few days. I didn't climb it but a few other people have already.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Cobbles of Ill Repute (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: The tag at the bottom is labelled correctly as "Cobbles of Ill Repute", and the anchor has lowering biners, as of sometime recently.
(I also liked it better on my 2nd time on it, and found it harder & cleaner than I remembered.)


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: The tag at the bottom is correctly labeled "Goiter Grabber", as of sometime recently.

There is a new climb, 10+ "Bloody Turnip", to the left of "Goiter Grabber", between it and the 5.9.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: The formation in center is called "The Castle" and is just north of Muralla Grande. Info on 4 routes on it is in the old Hill book.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall
By: George Perkins When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: This is a great cliff for moderate (9-10ish) sport climbs. Very long (95'), and as good as El Rito Sport Area's best at that grade. Thanks for cleaning up a cool crag!
Still some flakes and rocks will come off. Don't belay directly below the climber, and wear a helmet when belaying!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Techtonics (5.11+ R)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Protects reasonably but some air time is possible if you fall in the wrong places. Bolts protect the majority of the climb. I clipped Techweenie's 1st bolt, and placed a small-med stopper (#7 HB offset?) after bolt 3 but otherwise just clipped bolts. I did run it out at the top but it's after the hard climbing is done (a mid-size cam would be ok there too). Very good climb, like Techweenie.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Evil Alchemist (5.13a)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: 6 bolts (5 if stick-clipping b2 or skipping the first- shared with Siege Warfare- to minimize drag).
With good beta, including 2 knee bars, I found this was more doable than Beastmaster (12c/d) but harder than Siege Warfare (12c/d). More than 1 way to do the crux, so don't get discouraged.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: The 1st bolt on p3 was replaced and is new. Thanks. The 2nd is still old, but unlikely to be fallen on hard.

There is not a bolt on the "normal way" for p1 (as described above). The fixed gear on this pitch, if done the normal way, is: 3 pins just before and turning the crux bulge/roof, then another fixed pin just before the belay.

It is apparently possible to roll over left to a bolt then face climb up (rather than turning the crux bulge). This is the "original 1st pitch", shown on the [[or... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Even though the 5th bolt has no hanger currently- it's nothing to worry about. The climbing there is easy and the bolt below is still close. Guessing someone will replace it soon anyway, but don't avoid this climb in the interim. If you can climb the start, the missing bolt won't bother you.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag
By: George Perkins When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: There are a few additional climbs on a small cliff adjacent to the road about 100 yards to the south of the Vista Verde trailhead (the normal Bat Cave parking). They look to be easy/moderate. Anyone have more info on these?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Raven Steals the Sun (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: Rad climb! The only other one with 3 pitches 11c/harder in the Sandias I can think of is "Promised Land" (which I haven't tried and probably won't). Are there others I'm forgetting? This topo posted by the FA has more detail than the book does, and might help avoid confusion.

When the FA (above comment) says they "touched up the first pitch", that means they removed the 2 pins that previously protected the crux (there are still the lower 3, but the original topo shows 5). There ... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Renaissance Man (5.12-)
By: George Perkins When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Here's my take on the routes in this section. (I have an old and incomplete route list from before the area was posted here, not as helpful as MP.com but I will forward to you via fb; I'm not sure of its original author. It lists the 2 climbs separately). I haven't climbed the extensions but I did try to make sense of it as I was a little confused when I climbed here.
There are just 2 independent lines that start at the ground:
-Renaissance/ Lower Rosie (5.10-) is the left bolted crack start, ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress
By: George Perkins When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: As you walk right from Crankenstein:
The first climb on the face just right, with an obvious low old bolt is "Fear of Flying" described in the old Hill book, 5.8A4 (in 1981, anyway, who knows what a modern rating is).
To the right of that is a chossy-looking chimney (5.9+ in old Hill book).
Right of that is a newer bolted 2-pitch M.Beverly line I think he told me was called "Masterblaster". I've heard it's good but haven't climbed it.
I'm not sure where the 2 climbs D.Milford mentions that start... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Out of Sight (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: -This climb has a lower anchor and an extension that rolls left around the arete yet again. My partner and I thought 11c (slightly easier than the 4 climbs to the left), but we only climbed to the first anchor. Maybe the extension around the corner left raises it to 12 (didn't try it), or maybe we're uncalibrated sandbaggers.
-Stick clip the high first bolt or bring a large nut or thin hands-size cam for the start.
-Kind of hard to read this one, as far as when and where to step left.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Whipper Wonderland (5.12a/b)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: I tried to onsight this, and took the big whip from the crux last move, and bashed up my heel, elbow, and head, thankfully not badly but bad enough to end my day. It seems like maybe I just took a weird fall, but before my next attempt, I'll try to get more specific beta, and I'll wear a helmet. This climb's kind of scary in my (wimpy) opinion.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Pueblo Canyon Areas : Pueblo Canyon : Peggy Sue's First Time (5.9 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: This one is actually pretty good; would be considered decent for the grade at White Rock or Capulin. Not as crumbly as the other handful of forgettable chossy cracks I've climbed in this canyon.
The anchor is a bolt & a pin (with no webbing or chains to rap from). For the 2nd pitch back to the bridge: either climb a thin crack with small gear to the right, or a dirty-looking chimney directly under the bridge that might take some small gear in the back; both are likely more ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side : Overripe Fresh-Squeezed Cal... (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Currently, no chains on the anchor. It would be easy to leave slings and clean them from above on the hike out, though.


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