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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Areas = 15
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All 2476 | Routes 244 | Areas 23 | Photos 29 | Page Improvments 2 | Comments 238 | Posts 64 | Stars 1060 | Ratings 816
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall
By: George Perkins When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: This is a great cliff for moderate (9-10ish) sport climbs. Very long (95'), and as good as El Rito Sport Area's best at that grade. Thanks for cleaning up a cool crag!


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Techtonics (5.11+ R)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Protects reasonably but some air time is possible if you fall in the wrong places. Bolts protect the majority of the climb. I clipped Techweenie's 1st bolt, and placed a small-med stopper (#7 HB offset?) after bolt 3 but otherwise just clipped bolts. I did run it out at the top but it's after the hard climbing is done (a mid-size cam would be ok there too). Very good climb, like Techweenie.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Evil Alchemist (5.13a)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: 6 bolts (5 if stick-clipping b2 or skipping the first- shared with Siege Warfare- to minimize drag).
With good beta, including 2 knee bars, I found this was more doable than Beastmaster (12c/d) but harder than Siege Warfare (12c/d). More than 1 way to do the crux, so don't get discouraged.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: The 1st bolt on p3 was replaced and is new. Thanks. The 2nd is still old, but unlikely to be fallen on hard.

There is not a bolt on the "normal way" for p1 (as described above). The fixed gear on this pitch, if done the normal way, is: 3 pins just before and turning the crux bulge/roof, then another fixed pin just before the belay.

It is apparently possible to roll over left to a bolt then face climb up (rather than turning the crux bulge). This is the "original 1st pitch", shown on the [[or... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Even though the 5th bolt has no hanger currently- it's nothing to worry about. The climbing there is easy and the bolt below is still close. Guessing someone will replace it soon anyway, but don't avoid this climb in the interim. If you can climb the start, the missing bolt won't bother you.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag
By: George Perkins When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: There are a few additional climbs on a small cliff adjacent to the road about 100 yards to the south of the Vista Verde trailhead (the normal Bat Cave parking). They look to be easy/moderate. Anyone have more info on these?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Raven Steals the Sun (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: Rad climb! The only other one with 3 pitches 11c/harder in the Sandias I can think of is "Promised Land" (which I haven't tried and probably won't). Are there others I'm forgetting? This topo posted by the FA has more detail than the book does, and might help avoid confusion.

When the FA (above comment) says they "touched up the first pitch", that means they removed the 2 pins that previously protected the crux (there are still the lower 3, but the original topo shows 5). There ... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Renaissance Man (5.12-)
By: George Perkins When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Here's my take on the routes in this section. (I have an old and incomplete route list from before the area was posted here, not as helpful as MP.com but I will forward to you via fb; I'm not sure of its original author. It lists the 2 climbs separately). I haven't climbed the extensions but I did try to make sense of it as I was a little confused when I climbed here.
There are just 2 independent lines that start at the ground:
-Renaissance/ Lower Rosie (5.10-) is the left bolted crack start, ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress
By: George Perkins When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: As you walk right from Crankenstein:
The first climb on the face just right, with an obvious low old bolt is "Fear of Flying" described in the old Hill book, 5.8A4 (in 1981, anyway, who knows what a modern rating is).
To the right of that is a chossy-looking chimney (5.9+ in old Hill book).
Right of that is a newer bolted 2-pitch M.Beverly line I think he told me was called "Masterblaster". I've heard it's good but haven't climbed it.
I'm not sure where the 2 climbs D.Milford mentions that start... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Easy Bake Alcove : Schwing! (5.12b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Possible to bypass the difficult crux sequence by moving right and pulling on thin 5.11 edges, probably not legit since doing so has you 1 step away from the Crucial Taunt line.

(edit to add: I didn't yet red point with either variation. Tried and failed on the boulder problem first a few times. I worked it out going right starting from the bolt at the crux, which is just off a pretty good rest at the flake, and it's relatively easy to get there. I didn't lower off and start over, still felt... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Out of Sight (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: -This climb has a lower anchor and an extension that rolls left around the arete yet again. My partner and I thought 11c (slightly easier than the 4 climbs to the left), but we only climbed to the first anchor. Maybe the extension around the corner left raises it to 12 (didn't try it), or maybe we're uncalibrated sandbaggers.
-Stick clip the high first bolt or bring a large nut or thin hands-size cam for the start.
-Kind of hard to read this one, as far as when and where to step left.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Whipper Wonderland (5.12a/b)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: I tried to onsight this, and took the big whip from the crux last move, and bashed up my heel, elbow, and head, thankfully not badly but bad enough to end my day. It seems like maybe I just took a weird fall, but before my next attempt, I'll try to get more specific beta, and I'll wear a helmet. This climb's kind of scary in my (wimpy) opinion.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Pueblo Canyon Areas : Pueblo Canyon : Peggy Sue's First Time (5.9 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: This one is actually pretty good; would be considered decent for the grade at White Rock or Capulin. Not as crumbly as the other handful of forgettable chossy cracks I've climbed in this canyon.
The anchor is a bolt & a pin (with no webbing or chains to rap from). For the 2nd pitch back to the bridge: either climb a thin crack with small gear to the right, or a dirty-looking chimney directly under the bridge that might take some small gear in the back; both are likely more ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side : Overripe Fresh-Squeezed Cal... (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Currently, no chains on the anchor. It would be easy to leave slings and clean them from above on the hike out, though.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Gnosis (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 8, 2014

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Comments: Bring a #0.5 camalot or a stick clip to protect the hard start.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Gingivitis (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: The crack that forms the left side of the Gingivitis "pillar" and goes to the same anchor was pretty fun, 5.11- or so. (It's not listed in the book.)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Polygrip (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Length is ~115'. A 60m rope did not reach. A 70m would.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unnamed 5.10: Route 41 ( 46... (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: My 60m rope was long enough, but it was close.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pino Wall & Jawbone : Pino Wall : Red Dawn (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: -The last 2 pitches are great. The first 1+1/2 pitches are not so good, but its possible we were off-route on p1. (Too far right maybe? It worked, it wasn't a big deal.)
-We didn't see a bolt on p2.
-On the last pitch, going straight to the first bolt seemed contrived. I stayed in the nice hand crack, then, at about the level of the first bolt, traversed right. Though I couldn't clip that bolt, I was still able to get to the hand crack pillar and the last 2 bolts on the final headwall. Also, ... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Mitchell Trail Area : Clifty : Thanksgiving Rock Right (Ia... (5.7 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: In addition to the anchors, this climb was retro bolted in the last 5 years or so. New lead protection bolts are on p2 (where the threaded sling used to be), and on the top pitch.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Sardonic Smile (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: This climb was dirty today.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Dread Pirate Roberts (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: RPs might protect the boulder problem start. If it seems uncomfortable, use a stick to drop in a bigger nut above. Or go up the lightning bolt OW to the right.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Adiós Alemanes (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 21, 2013

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Comments: A #6 camalot is recommended. You'd have to run it out to the anchor, like 15' or something, without that (or a big bro).


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Prior to posting this area, it was discussed with Access Fund, Jemez District of the FS, and some people from NM Crag. All said that climbing here was an acceptable use of our national forest wilderness areas. Still, one can't help but be a little concerned that something could go wrong.

I'm glad the info on the area is publicly available; it's cool to see people from ABQ climbing here now. I'm hopeful that more visitation will in fact be viewed as a good thing by the FS. I'm also... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: That's correct, "David". We were reluctant to share the area publicly in light of the Crystal Cave situation on the other side of the Jemez, and the bolt/power-drill issues in the Sandias. (Ultimately, we hope that sharing the info will help long-term access.) Hopefully, we (climbers) can avoid fucking up here.

And, we've seen no sign of archaeology at, or near, the cliffs.


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