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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Think you'd need 2 ropes to rap off from pitch 4, and it might be more straight-forward to go down Voodoo Child rather than Mountain Momma. Is 1 70m rope ok? Anyone know more? I guess that info might be useful for people bailing off for unplanned reasons as well. I'd kind of thought about doing 2 climbs on Torreon but never tried. Maybe in September..
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Trundle Wall : Last Goodbye (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: re: rapping Trundle Wall to approach.
We recently rapped in Top Flite with a single 60m rope (3 rappels). Shouldn't need to leave gear, except at the top anchor, which you could retrieve on the way out. We replaced the cord on the anchors. The last rap isn't ideal (wiggly pin + fixed nut); we backed that up with a non-weighted cam, then cleaned it when we climbed out.
If rapping S&S, would need to leave gear for the 2nd rappel (one bolt only at the top of p2), and 70m rope needed.... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area
By: George Perkins When: Jun 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Approach options:
1) Walk down the main Echo Canyon gully, hugging the left side, passing Techweenie Buttress. Not too bad. Fastest way to walk to the base.
2) Walk down the gully just left (north) of Big T. Not too bad. Fastest way to walk back to the base from the top.
3) Rappel in by Big T (4 raps off 2-bolt anchors, with 70m rope). Need to leave long runner/cordelette on only the highest rappel point; all others are fully equipped. Good if you don't want to walk to the base.
4) Rap... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Ghost Rider (5.10 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. To find the start, look for a bolt 15' up; it's on the big wall to the right of the Bush Shark Spire tower (not on the tower itself, and before you turn the corner into the side canyon with Westeron Wynde).
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Crossroads (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: May 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: -Pitch 1 starts a bit to the right of where shown in the Sandia Rock photo.
-Pitch 3 roof is sketchy!*
-I missed the traverse right on pitch 4. Did the 10b variation in Sandia Rock, straight up to the roof, turned it on the left, then up a tree and a higher tree. We thought that roof was really fun! And easier than 10b. Some loose rocks up at the high tree (be very careful*).
-Overall, I felt this was a pretty fun climb, with some very nice crack climbing. However, it has intricate route-find... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Trundle Wall : Splinted and Screwed (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: May 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: With one 60m rope, it worked nicely to approach this climb by rapping down "Top Flite". With a 70m, rap "S&S", since the bolted anchors are better on "S&S".
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : True Grit (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cleaned up by now, in my opinion, though still not immaculate. Way cleaner than 5 years ago. Devious in places, with multiple cruxes. The most sustained & hardest overall climb at this cliff, well worth doing if this is your grade.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach from White Rock (on foot, wading the river) has been done. Josh S. did this as part of a multi-sport adventure a few years back. They climbed Sun Devil. I don't know enough details to really tell any story, though.
Many folks have run/hiked the old railroad grade from NM502 to Diablo. At least some have climbed afterward.
I've heard that back in the day (90s?), there was a short-cut dirt road from NM502 to Diablo (now gated by San I Pueblo) that made it really quick to get there... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall area : Unnamed (5.8+)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Admittedly I bouldered/solo'ed it when I climbed and posted this one.
The crux is near the ground and crashpads probably protect it better than anything else (other than a TR). The upper part is easy but high enough to get hurt. I don't know if it counts as a boulder problem or a TR climb? (I just posted as per the book).
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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Training Wall : Just Another Pretty Face (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Alisa Hadfield
www.abqjournal.com/sports/2012/06/28/judge-always-reaching-f>>>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock
By: George Perkins When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Cowgirl Pump" (5.11a R). One guidebook shows it left of the "Bats in the Belfry" crack, the other shows it to the right. It's supposed to have a bolt on the steep part, which I looked for, but didn't see. Anyone climbed this and can point me in the right direction?
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock : Bats in the Belfry (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a great climb, one of the best cracks at TP. The scramble off the top of Middle Rock adds to the experience. The alternate finish to the left, on the chickenheads and jugs, is really fun, though a little harder (5.9 or 5.10-).
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Trash Tower : Trash Compactor (5.12-)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 6' of easy climbing to a good rest, then a great, sequential, 3-move V3 boulder problem at the 2nd bolt, probably harder for short people, another good rest, then the 5.10+ finish of Weenies.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Icarus (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Icarus is the most obvious & straight-up line of the 3 climbs sharing its start. The first pitch is high quality, 105', and a good warm-up for the Solar Cave climbs. You can rappel from the pitch 1 anchors with a single 60m rope, but it might not reach if lowering through the draws. A 70m would work.
I didn't try the 2nd pitch because I thought I might not be able to get down with a single 60m rope, based on the length listed. But it looks shorter than p1 in the photos & bolt count, so pleas... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Cholla Wall (5.10a/b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Though I think more people should be open-minded to leading Cholla Wall because it is pretty proud/memorable, I was definitely intimidated prior to doing so. Here's the warnings:
- Don't fall at the start (1st crux). It's a boulder problem before you get your first pro.
- Don't fall at the top (2nd crux). I've heard of 2 big falls from up there, and the gear in the highest pocket is tricky and perhaps not fully trustworthy.
- Don't try to onsight Cholla Wall if 5.10 is hard for you, or if you'r...
more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been working on this a bunch this summer and got on it again this evening. I haven't sent yet and it's significantly harder than anything I've climbed, so my opinion probably isn't worth much. I think the 4th bolt is in the ideal place if you clip it off the 1st jug after the crux; if it was much lower you would probably just clip it off the same holds used to clip the 3rd bolt, which is at waist level at that time and takes minimal effort. The easiest beta (I think, and what I... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crankenstein (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In April 2012, 3 bolts were 1/4" (one of them was the last bolt a few feet right of the anchor, which isn't as important as the others); the other 4 were bigger. I think the crux was protected by a more modern bolt, but don't remember for sure.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Tendon Bendin' (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb's a tougher version of Crimp Chimp, steep and relentless with no distinct crux. Despite a scary 2nd clip off perhaps the smallest hold on the climb (consider stick-clipping this), and a demoralizing finish due to the difficulty of clipping the chains while pumped (consider bringing an extra draw to clip the anchor first, rather than clipping the anchor directly), I've been pretty psyched about this climb lately as I'm trying to improve at steep climbing. This season, I've found it... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Crimp Chimp (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stickclip bolt 2 if 12a is hard for you, especially if you don't have the beta dialed. The technical crux (just before bolt 2) appears to be somewhat height/reach-dependent, and the 2nd clip can be dicey sometimes. Angle right after clipping the 3rd bolt to stay on Crimp Chimp, which starts what is generally the redpoint crux. Although most find it a bit more difficult than the other popular 12-'s, Against Nature and Moat Jump, strong people who regularly climb steep stuff ma... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Gangland (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A key hold was recently broken off at the upper (slab) crux at the 2nd-to-last bolt, making the climb somewhat harder for those who previously used the more reachy but less crimpy "left beta" for this section (though the FA always recommended the sequence of small edges directly in line with the bolt at this section anyway).
Other beta:
This is another one at the Dungeon on which you don't want to blow it before clipping the 2nd bolt, and it's fairly sequency to get there, so one may want to st... more >>
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Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : Diamond : Post : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jun 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo of us!!!!
I am unknown green guy. My partner, unknown red guy, is Lee H.from Colo. Spgs.
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Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: George Perkins When: Jun 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The road was not gated or blocked coming from the north yesterday.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : John Dunn Bridge Area : The New New Buffalo
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage has more beta on this area:
www.climbingschoolusa.com/newrouteinformation/nmnewroutejohn>>>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Photo
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Info for Amole can be found on Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage:
www.climbingschoolusa.com/newrouteinformation/nmnewrouteamol>>>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Info on many of the new routes in Comales Canyon is listed on Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage:
www.climbingschoolusa.com/newrouteinformation/nmnewrouteamol>>>
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