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Member Since: Oct 4, 2008
Last Visit: Apr 9, 2014
Contact George Bracksieck


Point Rank: # 722
Total Points: 828
Last Year: 461
Last 30 Days: 12
9 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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George Bracksieck

 
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All (337) | Routes (44) | Areas (4) | Photos (34) | Comments (158) | Posts (53) | Stars (44) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Canyon Block : Scorcher (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: A two-coldshut anchor is immediately to the left, at the top of the crack, just below the rim.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : The Guardian (5.12d)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: You don't have strong hands to have fun on this route. In the early '90s, I led this by using aid on the fixed hardware and a few hammerless pieces that I placed and grabbing holds in between each piece. I might have used a hook but no cheater stick. I rated it 5.10 A1.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Armed Forces (5.11-)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: There are four 3/8" bolts with SMC hangers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: Must be a typo, because I recall going into the Summit Hut, which was tiny in those days, and getting beta. I think Dave Baker was behind the counter and helped us.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: On this page, the FFA is stated to be in '77. Huh?

Just for the record, Doug Hill and I climbed Don's Crack all free on March 25, 1976. We bivied on Lion's Ledge the night before and the night after the climb. During each night, we were visited by a ringtail and had to hold our food in our sleeping bags, to avoid losing it. On the approach from Rigg's Ranch, I fell off of a switchback when a rattler buzzed me.

Anyway, I led the first pitch, which felt awkward in stiff shoes, and felt runo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Abandonment (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: Having led Au Natural and Abandonment recently, I think the former is a whole number grade harder than the latter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: As do hundreds of cragging areas, the Riviera lies beneath hundreds of vertical feet of choss, some of which could spontaneously fall and some of which could be knocked off by climbers. Visitors should at least wear helmets. Don't assume your kids are safe just because the Riviera has beginner/moderate routes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Just Putin Around (5.9 PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: This route lies above the right side of the Riviera. Any rock knocked off could crash down onto climbers and spectators, kids and dogs, who are oblivious to what lies above. Better avoid it on weekends and warm weekdays.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Acid Rock (5.8+ PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: This route lies above the right side of the Riviera. Any rock knocked off could crash down onto climbers and spectators, kids and dogs, who are oblivious to what lies above. Better avoid it on weekends and warm weekdays.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Acid Crack (5.10b)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: I led Patti Smith up this on May 16, 1975. We climbed the easy gully/crack system below it, to get to the main ledge. We called the crack "Acid Crack," because we, later that day, climbed what we thought was "Acid Rock," which was in the 1972 guidebook "5.10," written by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson. Whatever we climbed was to the right of AC and to the left of the Bihedral route. We, as it turns out, didn't climb anywhere near "Acid Rock."


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Acid Rock (5.8+ PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: Yesterday, Leo Paik and I embarked upon a mini-adventure, with the noble intent of finding where Acid Rock really goes. None of it seemed familiar to me, in spite of having climbed what I THOUGHT was Acid Rock in 1975. Turns out what I thought was Acid Rock in 1975 was likely Sun Spot, which happens to be the only route that I haven't SINCE climbed on that whole sector to the left of the Bihedral route.

Back to yesterday: From the base of the Bihedral route, I traversed about 120 feet to ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Godzilla Buttress : Godzilla (5.10b)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: Despite the initial mediocre rock found up through the left-facing dihedral, this IS an awesome route. Exiting right from the top of dihedral, you begin a series of wild, improbable moves, past three rusty 3/8" bolts, up the steep, smooth, in-your-face cheeks of granite. Once found, the holds are amazing.

From the base, easy scrambling reaches the left-facing dihedral. I found only two gear placements in the dihedral, which felt like 5.8 and reminded me of Chicken Fart at Mission Gorge. Brin... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Godzilla Buttress : Don't Pet The Tiger (5.10b)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: Because of decking potential getting to the second bolt, I stick-clipped it. The low crux is continuous, with sometimes-hard-to-see feet, from the ground to above the second bolt. The seventh (last) bolt is well-placed for clipping, but there is definite ledge-out potential when making the long reach to a sloper, off of bad feet. (The good hold is even higher.) I was wishing that the last bolt had been placed higher, where there are still good holds to clip from, before committing to the cru... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Godzilla Buttress : Troglodyte Trot (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: I wonder how the OP came up with his claim of 60 feet. I used 97 feet of rope from the base to the single modern bolt at the top and this was after reaching down to unclip the first bolt and extending the next two bolts. Above, I placed a red C3, a purple C4, and a red C4, before clipping the fourth (last) bolt.

The single summit bolt isn't located for lowering or rapping, although it could be greatly extended to be part of an anchor built for toproping. You could rap from the nearby Tige... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Charisma (5.11a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: Or didn't.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Charisma (5.11a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: Yes, ssp, I'm old enough to take up golf, which could provide a solution to diminishing returns: handicap. Once you've hoarded over 63 years, which I had when I flashed this route, you get to clip all the bolts. (If not, you have to skip every other one.) And for every year past 60, you may increase the rating by a letter grade (5.6b becomes 5.6c). Another bennie: The more I climb, the more easily entertained I am (5.6b seems as challenging in 2013 as 5.6c was in 2012).

What loose bloc... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Stupid Human Trick (5.10)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: Toproping this is easy from the Gru anchor. I think the start is 5.9 and is reaches at a horizontal crack at about 11 feet. Some gear placements (tiny cams and maybe a #2 Camalot) are possible in the horizontal. From the horizontal, make a long crank to a jug (5.8). Continue up easier moves to the summit.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Unknown F (5.7)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: Seemed a lot harder than 5.7.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Jim's Myrtle Spurge (5.7)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: The white sap of the spurge is caustic. I'd glove up to handle it. (Sounds a little kinky!)


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bumbling Stock : Crack a Beer (5.10+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Darren -- What happened to the excellent photo of you leading this? It was here last night. The substituted overview pic is informative, though.


Location: CA : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: I wonder where is this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: According to High Over Boulder, "Left Side" (FA: Kor and Bleser, 1961) may follow the line in D'Antonio's guide, left of Kate Moss. It looks pretty scruffy, but there is a potential route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across From Cenotaph
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Last time I was up at Sky Cafe (~two years ago?), I noticed that you could contour eastward for maybe 100 meters to "Across from Cenotaph." I think approaching through the Sport Park to Sky Cafe or Stone Cafe could be the best way to reach AfC, with less bushwhacking and less elevation gain.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Bands of Gold (5.11d)
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: A fun, mostly trad, 5.10 variation can be climbed in the dihedral to the right of the first four bolts. Continue up to the fifth bolt, and avoid the 11d section to its right. Clip more bolts and place more gear, as you reach back left to the upper part of Bands and climb 5.10 to its anchors.


Location: MT : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: I've seen this from Blodgett Can. Where is the best approach? Maybe from the canyon or slopes to the south of Blodgett?


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