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Member Since: Oct 4, 2008
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact George Bracksieck

Point Rank: # 626
Total Points: 1,086
Last Year: 226
Last 30 Days: 59
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George Bracksieck been climbing?










George Bracksieck

 
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All 478 | Routes 52 | Areas 6 | Photos 52 | Page Improvements | Comments 216 | Posts 97 | Stars 53 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: FFA of headwall: Mike Caldwell.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lost Rock
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Nothing on this page really addresses how to find the upper-middle ("Center Face") group of routes (six 50-foot climbs that begin from the same ledge). On each occasion in which I've approached and descended from the upper-left group ("Upper Tier"), I was unable to see a trace of the upper-middle group. Yesterday, we were ready to give up. Then we spied a bolt....

On the big curve in the highway, about 1/8 mile upstream from Animal World parking, we parked at the large pullout on the east (str... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : War Drums (5.9 PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: I led this four or five years ago, finding only two bolts. Sounds like the third bolt wasn't worth finding. I did find lots of placements in horizontals, using C3s up through #1 Cam. So three new bolts is more than plenty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Heat Wave (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: I led this four or five years ago. The existing bolts were old and rusty; the trad gear funky; and there was no anchor. I had to build an anchor somewhere up to the right. My wife couldn't follow, so I rapped and cleaned, then scrambled around to the top to clean my anchor. I thought that it was 10-, perhaps because I, too, continued up the rotten arete. Now that it may be a better climb, I'd like to do it again.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Old Man Route (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: FWIW, I led Cathy Mallow up this on 6/24/78. I'd be surprised if it hadn't been climbed before.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Hey Ken

Did you change the photo that I left my earlier Bony Fingers comment about?

Anyway, to answer your question: Yes, Bony Fingers is on the dome on the upper right in the upper of the new pics that you posted on 9/25/14: "The Dome that overlooks the Tarryall Tower approach's hillside."


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Wave Twister
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 7, 2015

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Comments: As in many areas published on MP, the above "Prime Time" graph is bogus.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : The Voodoo That You Do (5.7+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 7, 2015

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Comments: I got a bad case of rope drag while leading this pitch. The route starts in the right portion of the cave, where lies the first bolt. Above the chockstone (which I avoided touching), I moved left to the second bolt. I then moved up and right to a shallow nut placement (to help protect the long runout to the third bolt), then moved up and left to the third bolt, then moved right and up to gear placements above the fifth bolt, and moved left to the sixth (last) bolt.

The bolts are far apart. Unt... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 7, 2015

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Comments: The elevation of the lower trailhead parking area is 8,215 feet. The elevation of most of the climbing at the Staunton Rocks is about 9,000 feet.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Planet Earth (5.11a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Lowering a climber can shred the rope. A lot of sharp rock lies below the anchors. After reaching the anchor, the climber should rappel.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Earth First (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Lowering a climber can shred the rope. A lot of sharp rock lies below the anchors. After reaching the anchor, the climber should rappel.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: In the '70s, the Basecamp section of Climbing Magazine published a new route on this new, unnamed rock. The route was called the Weasel and was rated 5.8. Soon thereafter, my partner and I parked on CO Hwy 72 at the pullout now suggested for The Scoop, hiked downhill to the creek, and waded it. We climbed the three-pitch route to the top and walked off. This approach doesn't cross any private land, except for briefly crossing the railroad tracks. The rock isn't on private land, either.
... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Echo Canyon (aka The Scoop)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: The cut trees and gathered slash piles lie just across the signed National Forest boundary from private land and seem to be a fire-mitigation effort designed to protect the many nearby homes, which ironically have little defensible space to retard fire. The trail to The Scoop has been used by the people doing the fire mitigation and is easy and smooth. It has offshoots and continues to the west of the longitude of the parking pullout, suggesting that the trail was there before climbers started u... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Unnamed (submitted as Doc's... (5.7)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: In 1994, I led Beverly Bien up this route. There were no bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : The Hot Donut (5.8- R)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: On 6/20, I led this up to the supposed "great" hand crack, which was defined by a dolphin-shaped, dolphin-sized block that angles up the the left and appears to be unattached to anything but gravity. It looked scarier than what I'd already climbed, so I avoided it and continued straight up, through the excellent arete finish of Couch Potato (10-).

The lower section (5.8) is loose and covered with moss and flaky lichen. I worked for and placed about seven pieces of decent pro, burying small cam... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Vrain Dead : Vrain Dead (5.8+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: I think this is at least 5.10. I'm ~5'8" and could have reached a key hold and some key finger locks from other locks in the slanting crack if I had at least another 5" of reach. I was forced to make difficult, awkward cranks off of poor fingertip positions with no feet.

About an hour before, I toproped Think Tank (11a) at the Vrain Trust, on the tier above. The Vrain Dead crux is a move similar to the Think Tank crux a LONG reach off of a positive finger lock to a prominent rounded hold up o... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: George Bracksieck When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: I don't think that the "crumbling dihedral" needs more work, although some more pieces of rock may yet crumble. Neither Mike nor Ross placed any small cams in the first (crumbling) section of the shallow dihedral, although, from a distance, it looks possible. Each of them climbed carefully and eventually placed #1, #2, and #3 Cams and maybe a #10 Stopper, plus other cams, farther up the shallow dihedral.

The route can use more brushing. Very little has been done.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Easy Street (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the finish: The second bolt isn't far enough above a big ledge to do much good. The first piece above the bolt is a sketchy blue Alien. Placing a tinier cam (like a Zero?) or ball nut may, or may not, be possible a short distance farther up the left-angling seam. A green Alien fits shallowly in a horizontal, above, protecting the long reach over the top. This is NOT for the 5.8 leader. I think you have to be tall for this to be 5.8.

The lower part of the climb takes C4s from #0.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Stone Cafe : Gruel Shoes (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: My point about the gear placements is that some of the bolts on this route are unnecessary, especially the one that compromises the carabiner.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Tunnel Crag
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Tristan and Ben.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Canyon : Agua Negro (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Last Tues, I led this, using Ben Chapman's second suggestion (above). I suggest replacing all 3/8-inch bolts with 1/2 X 5-inch bolts, unless placing in a dense, fine-grained, solidly embedded cobble of sufficient size.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Elephant's Head (& Hype... : Goldline (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Led this last Tues. Pleasantly cool day. A few observations:

The second bolt has a SMC hanger, generally frowned upon by people installing modern bolts. The third bolt is completely surrounded by hollow rock and should be relocated. Because my belayer wasn't going to climb, I clipped the first pair of anchor bolts at 100 feet and kept going. At 200 feet, I was at least 100 feet from the top, so I traversed to a pair of bolts. I rapped and cleaned.

All bolts on this kind of rock should be half-... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Tunnel Crag
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: What's the name of the new guidebook? Where is it available?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: In the '70s, I rope-soloed the two short cracks that face upstream. Those are mostly parallel-sided and were hard to protect without cams.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Furlough Day (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Proving that no one had previously climbed something is extremely difficult. Do you get out the DNA kit and test for Layton's sweat residue from 1973 or earlier? Or Leo's from some years back? Do you look for 41-year-old chalk marks left by climbers who didn't use chalk? Or chalk marks that might (or might not) have been left some years ago and exposed to years of meteoric precipitation? Just because someone didn't bother to publicize their recreational outing for the day doesn't mean that wha... more >>


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