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Member Since: Oct 4, 2008
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 727
Total Points: 881
Last Year: 254
Last 30 Days: 2
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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George Bracksieck

 
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All 368 | Routes 46 | Areas 4 | Photos 39 | Page Improvements | Comments 166 | Posts 67 | Stars 46 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Buena Vista : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Hi Kathleen Tim was my favorite partner. He was strong, safe, solid, and reliable. We had a lot of great adventures together.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak...
By: George Bracksieck When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I'm going to echo most of the comments made under "Pinewood Rock." The correct name for "Pinewood Rock" is Button Rock, which is the name that has appeared on USGS and USFS maps for at least 60 years. In the '80s, climbers started calling the rocks (including the River Wall) by Longmont Reservoir "Button Rock." Longmont Res. lies a couple miles east of Ralph Price Res., which was originally named Button Rock Res., because it lies three miles south of and is in sight of Button Rock Mtn and the ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Solid Gold (5.12a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: I climbed the first two and a half pitches in 1973, placing primitive, hammerless pro and was belayed by Charly Marchand. I was fiddling with my first gear placement when Layton Kor showed up with a partner and started up the black slab just to our left. Layton whacked in a pin in seconds and disappeared above. His partner moved up and whacked it out in seconds and disappeared as I was still fiddling. We finished our climb up the huge, right-facing dihedral left of the bolted fourth pitch of P... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Observatory Rock : Mineral Secretion (5.10c)
By: George Bracksieck When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: Ross Are you confusing MS with Panic in the Gray Womb? You led me, Bernie, and (maybe) Mike up the left variation of PitGW, which started in the bottom left of an alcove, climbed up into the ceiling of the alcove (where you removed your helmet, before squirming right to exit the womb), and then diagonaled right to the anchors atop Punch Line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: West Crack was listed in Ament and Erickson's guidebook "5.10," which was published in 1972. I believe that it was first climbed in the '60s. I climbed it (what later became known as Star Wars) in 1976, with Doug Hill.


Location: CO : South Platte : Tick Dome : If Sheep Had Heels and Toes (5.9) : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Mark!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Goofy Spire : Goofy (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: My 1972 variation climbed a little farther up the north-face chimney of Goofy Spire, before diagonaling left, above where the dotted line goes left. Near the top of the chimney, I diagonaled left, crossing an overhang and continued up the obvious, left-slanting crack that ends at the actual summit.


Location: CO : South Platte : Tick Dome : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: I led this north-side crack on 10/10/81. (I'm NOT talking about the right-slanting gully-ish feature to the right, in this picture.) Steve Sarns seconded. I thought it was about 5.9. I found some slides taken of me leading, which I'll post when I get around to it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: That's the Turret in the background. Looks as if this photo was taken after the 2002 Hayman Fire.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Canyon Block : Scorcher (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 6, 2014

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Comments: A two-coldshut anchor is immediately to the left, at the top of the crack, just below the rim.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : The Guardian (5.12d)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: You don't have strong hands to have fun on this route. In the early '90s, I led this by using aid on the fixed hardware and a few hammerless pieces that I placed and grabbing holds in between each piece. I might have used a hook but no cheater stick. I rated it 5.10 A1.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Armed Forces (5.11-)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: There are four 3/8" bolts with SMC hangers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: Must be a typo, because I recall going into the Summit Hut, which was tiny in those days, and getting beta. I think Dave Baker was behind the counter and helped us.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Don's Crack (5.8+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: On this page, the FFA is stated to be in '77. Huh?

Just for the record, Doug Hill and I climbed Don's Crack all free on March 25, 1976. We bivied on Lion's Ledge the night before and the night after the climb. During each night, we were visited by a ringtail and had to hold our food in our sleeping bags, to avoid losing it. On the approach from Rigg's Ranch, I fell off of a switchback when a rattler buzzed me.

Anyway, I led the first pitch, which felt awkward in stiff shoes, and felt runo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Abandonment (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: Having led Au Natural and Abandonment recently, I think the former is a whole number grade harder than the latter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: As do hundreds of cragging areas, the Riviera lies beneath hundreds of vertical feet of choss, some of which could spontaneously fall and some of which could be knocked off by climbers. Visitors should at least wear helmets. Don't assume your kids are safe just because the Riviera has beginner/moderate routes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Just Putin Around (5.9 PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: This route lies above the right side of the Riviera. Any rock knocked off could crash down onto climbers and spectators, kids and dogs, who are oblivious to what lies above. Better avoid it on weekends and warm weekdays.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Acid Rock (5.8+ PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: This route lies above the right side of the Riviera. Any rock knocked off could crash down onto climbers and spectators, kids and dogs, who are oblivious to what lies above. Better avoid it on weekends and warm weekdays.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Acid Crack (5.10b)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: I led Patti Smith up this on May 16, 1975. We climbed the easy gully/crack system below it, to get to the main ledge. We called the crack "Acid Crack," because we, later that day, climbed what we thought was "Acid Rock," which was in the 1972 guidebook "5.10," written by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson. Whatever we climbed was to the right of AC and to the left of the Bihedral route. We, as it turns out, didn't climb anywhere near "Acid Rock."


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Acid Rock (5.8+ PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: Yesterday, Leo Paik and I embarked upon a mini-adventure, with the noble intent of finding where Acid Rock really goes. None of it seemed familiar to me, in spite of having climbed what I THOUGHT was Acid Rock in 1975. Turns out what I thought was Acid Rock in 1975 was likely Sun Spot, which happens to be the only route that I haven't SINCE climbed on that whole sector to the left of the Bihedral route.

Back to yesterday: From the base of the Bihedral route, I traversed about 120 feet to ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Godzilla Buttress : Godzilla (5.10b)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: Despite the initial mediocre rock found up through the left-facing dihedral, this IS an awesome route. Exiting right from the top of dihedral, you begin a series of wild, improbable moves, past three rusty 3/8" bolts, up the steep, smooth, in-your-face cheeks of granite. Once found, the holds are amazing.

From the base, easy scrambling reaches the left-facing dihedral. I found only two gear placements in the dihedral, which felt like 5.8 and reminded me of Chicken Fart at Mission Gorge. Brin... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Godzilla Buttress : Don't Pet The Tiger (5.10b)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: Because of decking potential getting to the second bolt, I stick-clipped it. The low crux is continuous, with sometimes-hard-to-see feet, from the ground to above the second bolt. The seventh (last) bolt is well-placed for clipping, but there is definite ledge-out potential when making the long reach to a sloper, off of bad feet. (The good hold is even higher.) I was wishing that the last bolt had been placed higher, where there are still good holds to clip from, before committing to the cru... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Poway Crags Proper : Godzilla Buttress : Troglodyte Trot (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: I wonder how the OP came up with his claim of 60 feet. I used 97 feet of rope from the base to the single modern bolt at the top and this was after reaching down to unclip the first bolt and extending the next two bolts. Above, I placed a red C3, a purple C4, and a red C4, before clipping the fourth (last) bolt.

The single summit bolt isn't located for lowering or rapping, although it could be greatly extended to be part of an anchor built for toproping. You could rap from the nearby Tige... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Charisma (5.11a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: Or didn't.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Charisma (5.11a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: Yes, ssp, I'm old enough to take up golf, which could provide a solution to diminishing returns: handicap. Once you've hoarded over 63 years, which I had when I flashed this route, you get to clip all the bolts. (If not, you have to skip every other one.) And for every year past 60, you may increase the rating by a letter grade (5.6b becomes 5.6c). Another bennie: The more I climb, the more easily entertained I am (5.6b seems as challenging in 2013 as 5.6c was in 2012).

What loose bloc... more >>


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