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Member Since: Oct 4, 2008
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact George Bracksieck

Point Rank: # 659
Total Points: 1,027
Last Year: 167
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George Bracksieck been climbing?










George Bracksieck

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 461 | Routes 50 | Areas 5 | Photos 49 | Page Improvements | Comments 207 | Posts 97 | Stars 51 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Planet Earth (5.11a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Lowering a climber can shred the rope. A lot of sharp rock lies below the anchors. After reaching the anchor, the climber should rappel.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Earth First (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Lowering a climber can shred the rope. A lot of sharp rock lies below the anchors. After reaching the anchor, the climber should rappel.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: In the '70s, the Basecamp section of Climbing Magazine published a new route on this new, unnamed rock. The route was called the Weasel and was rated 5.8. Soon thereafter, my partner and I parked on Hwy 72 at the pullout now suggested for The Scoop, hiked downhill to the creek, and waded it. We climbed the three-pitch route to the top and walked off. This approach doesn't cross any private land, except for briefly crossing the railroad tracks. The rock isn't on private land, either.

In... more >>


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Echo Canyon (aka The Scoop)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: The cut trees and gathered slash piles lie just across the signed National Forest boundary from private land and seem to be a fire-mitigation effort designed to protect the many nearby homes, which ironically have little defensible space to retard fire. The trail to The Scoop has been used by the people doing the fire mitigation and is easy and smooth. It has offshoots and continues to the west of the longitude of the parking pullout, suggesting that the trail was there before climbers started u... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Unnamed (submitted as Doc's... (5.7)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: In 1994, I led Beverly Bien up this route. There were no bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : The Hot Donut (5.8- R)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: On 6/20, I led this up to the supposed "great" hand crack, which was defined by a dolphin-shaped, dolphin-sized block that angles up the the left and appears to be unattached to anything but gravity. It looked scarier than what I'd already climbed, so I avoided it and continued straight up, through the excellent arete finish of Couch Potato (10-).

The lower section (5.8) is loose and covered with moss and flaky lichen. I worked for and placed about seven pieces of decent pro, burying small cam... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Vrain Dead : Vrain Dead (5.8+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: I think this is at least 5.10. I'm ~5'8" and could have reached a key hold and some key finger locks from other locks in the slanting crack if I had at least another 5" of reach. I was forced to make difficult, awkward cranks off of poor fingertip positions with no feet.

About an hour before, I toproped Think Tank (11a) at the Vrain Trust, on the tier above. The Vrain Dead crux is a move similar to the Think Tank crux a LONG reach off of a positive finger lock to a prominent rounded hold up o... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: George Bracksieck When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: I don't think that the "crumbling dihedral" needs more work, although some more pieces of rock may yet crumble. Neither Mike nor Ross placed any small cams in the first (crumbling) section of the shallow dihedral, although, from a distance, it looks possible. Each of them climbed carefully and eventually placed #1, #2, and #3 Cams and maybe a #10 Stopper, plus other cams, farther up the shallow dihedral.

The route can use more brushing. Very little has been done.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Easy Street (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the finish: The second bolt isn't far enough above a big ledge to do much good. The first piece above the bolt is a sketchy blue Alien. Placing a tinier cam (like a Zero?) or ball nut may, or may not, be possible a short distance farther up the left-angling seam. A green Alien fits shallowly in a horizontal, above, protecting the long reach over the top. This is NOT for the 5.8 leader. I think you have to be tall for this to be 5.8.

The lower part of the climb takes C4s from #0.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Stone Cafe : Gruel Shoes (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: My point about the gear placements is that some of the bolts on this route are unnecessary, especially the one that compromises the carabiner.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Tunnel Crag
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Tristan and Ben.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The First Corridor : Agua Negro (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Last Tues, I led this, using Ben Chapman's second suggestion (above). I suggest replacing all 3/8-inch bolts with 1/2 X 5-inch bolts, unless placing in a dense, fine-grained, solidly embedded cobble of sufficient size.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Elephant's Head (& Hype... : Goldline (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Led this last Tues. Pleasantly cool day. A few observations:

The second bolt has a SMC hanger, generally frowned upon by people installing modern bolts. The third bolt is completely surrounded by hollow rock and should be relocated. Because my belayer wasn't going to climb, I clipped the first pair of anchor bolts at 100 feet and kept going. At 200 feet, I was at least 100 feet from the top, so I traversed to a pair of bolts. I rapped and cleaned.

All bolts on this kind of rock should be half-... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Tunnel Crag
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: What's the name of the new guidebook? Where is it available?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: In the '70s, I rope-soloed the two short cracks that face upstream. Those are mostly parallel-sided and were hard to protect without cams.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Furlough Day (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Proving that no one had previously climbed something is extremely difficult. Do you get out the DNA kit and test for Layton's sweat residue from 1973 or earlier? Or Leo's from some years back? Do you look for 41-year-old chalk marks left by climbers who didn't use chalk? Or chalk marks that might (or might not) have been left some years ago and exposed to years of meteoric precipitation? Just because someone didn't bother to publicize their recreational outing for the day doesn't mean that wha... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Furlough Day (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: In 1973, I watched Layton Kor lead what is probably this route. He and his partner climbed so quickly that I suspect he had done it before. He was generally fast though, so it could have been the FA. I led Ann Leibold up it in 1978. No bolts were there.


Location: Climbing Gear : A Guide to Carabiners
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: The statement that Petzl invented the Keylock gate nose is incorrect. Kong invented and patented the Keylock and used it on many of its carabiner models before it licensed the Keylock to Petzl and other companies.

Some carabiners will resist crossloading failure much better than others. The Petzl Spirit, along with carabiners of similar design, is one of the relatively resistant. Of course, preventing crossloading situations, or providing a backup (by connecting a second carabiner to the rope,... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Hideaway Dome : Parade of Fools (5.10a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: The route length is at least 125 feet (~35m). We rapped from the top (two-bolt anchor) with a 70m rope, sliding off of the ends while sitting down onto the juniper bush at the start, thanks to rope stretch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Ventura Highway (5.10c)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: Mike Endicott led Greg Wright and me up this in 1982.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Solarium : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: This looks like the short 5.6 crack that I also led on Dec. 6, 1976.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Solarium : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: On Dec. 6, 1976, I led Stewart Kahn up this corner crack. I remember it feeling like 5.7 or .8. I led it again, fall 2013. It seemed a lot harder.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Unknown 2 (5.7) : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Part of the Clear Creek Fault Caves is visible in the chimney on the right. After climbing the dihedral in the center of the photo, I led Steve Johnson up the upper extension of this chimney (Dec. 3, 1977).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Unknown 2 (5.7)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: On Dec. 3, 1977, I led Steve Johnson up this, continuing up the bombay chimney that curves rightish, above. I recall exiting the chimney onto the ramp on its right, eventually. Steve was geologist living in Golden and wanted to check out the so-called Clear Creek Fault Caves. We could name this Fault Cave Crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : West Side (Story) (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: This route is listed in the 1970 edition of High over Boulder, by Ament and McCarty. It might have been listed in earlier editions, which I don't have. No FA info is given therein. I led Steve Johnson up this already-climbed route, in the '70s.


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