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Member Since: Oct 4, 2008
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact George Bracksieck

Point Rank: # 652
Total Points: 1,016
Last Year: 189
Last 30 Days: 36
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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George Bracksieck

 
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All 450 | Routes 50 | Areas 5 | Photos 48 | Page Improvements | Comments 201 | Posts 94 | Stars 51 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Quartz Dancer (5.11b/c)
By: George Bracksieck When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: I don't think that the "crumbling dihedral" needs more work, although some more pieces of rock may yet crumble. Neither Mike nor Ross placed any small cams in the first (crumbling) section of the shallow dihedral, although, from a distance, it looks possible. Each of them climbed carefully and eventually placed #1, #2, and #3 Cams and maybe a #10 Stopper, plus other cams, farther up the shallow dihedral.

The route can use more brushing. Very little has been done.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : Easy Street (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the finish: The second bolt isn't far enough above a big ledge to do much good. The first piece above the bolt is a sketchy blue Alien. Placing a tinier cam (like a Zero?) or ball nut may, or may not, be possible a short distance farther up the left-angling seam. A green Alien fits shallowly in a horizontal, above, protecting the long reach over the top. This is NOT for the 5.8 leader. I think you have to be tall for this to be 5.8.

The lower part of the climb takes C4s from #0.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Stone Cafe : Gruel Shoes (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: The point about the gear placements is that some of the bolts on this route are unnecessary, especially the one that compromises the carabiner.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Tunnel Crag
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Tristan and Ben.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The First Corridor : Agua Negro (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Last Tues, I led this, using Ben Chapman's second suggestion (above). I suggest replacing all 3/8-inch bolts with 1/2 X 5-inch bolts, unless placing in a dense, fine-grained, solidly embedded cobble of sufficient size.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Elephant's Head (& Hype... : Goldline (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Led this last Tues. Pleasantly cool day. A few observations:

The second bolt has a SMC hanger, generally frowned upon by people installing modern bolts. The third bolt is completely surrounded by hollow rock and should be relocated. Because my belayer wasn't going to climb, I clipped the first pair of anchor bolts at 100 feet and kept going. At 200 feet, I was at least 100 feet from the top, so I traversed to a pair of bolts. I rapped and cleaned.

All bolts on this kind of rock should be half-... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Tunnel Crag
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: What's the name of the new guidebook? Where is it available?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: In the '70s, I rope-soloed the two short cracks that face upstream. Those are mostly parallel-sided and were hard to protect without cams.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Furlough Day (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Proving that no one had previously climbed something is extremely difficult. Do you get out the DNA kit and test for Layton's sweat residue from 1973 or earlier? Or Leo's from some years back? Do you look for 41-year-old chalk marks left by climbers who didn't use chalk? Or chalk marks that might (or might not) have been left some years ago and exposed to years of meteoric precipitation? Just because someone didn't bother to publicize their recreational outing for the day doesn't mean that wha... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Furlough Day (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: In 1973, I watched Layton Kor lead what is probably this route. He and his partner climbed so quickly that I suspect he had done it before. He was generally fast though, so it could have been the FA. I led Ann Leibold up it in 1978. No bolts were there.


Location: Climbing Gear : A Guide to Carabiners
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: The statement that Petzl invented the Keylock gate nose is incorrect. Kong invented and patented the Keylock and used it on many of its carabiner models before it licensed the Keylock to Petzl and other companies.

Some carabiners will resist crossloading failure much better than others. The Petzl Spirit, along with carabiners of similar design, is one of the relatively resistant. Of course, preventing crossloading situations, or providing a backup (by connecting a second carabiner to the rope,... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Hideaway Dome : Parade of Fools (5.10a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: The route length is at least 125 feet (~35m). We rapped from the top (two-bolt anchor) with a 70m rope, sliding off of the ends while sitting down onto the juniper bush at the start, thanks to rope stretch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Ventura Highway (5.10c)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: Mike Endicott led Greg Wright and me up this in 1982.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Solarium : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: This looks like the short 5.6 crack that I also led on Dec. 6, 1976.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Solarium : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: On Dec. 6, 1976, I led Stewart Kahn up this corner crack. I remember it feeling like 5.7 or .8. I led it again, fall 2013. It seemed a lot harder.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Unknown 2 (5.7) : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: Part of the Clear Creek Fault Caves is visible in the chimney on the right. After climbing the dihedral in the center of the photo, I led Steve Johnson up the upper extension of this chimney (Dec. 3, 1977).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Unknown 2 (5.7)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: On Dec. 3, 1977, I led Steve Johnson up this, continuing up the bombay chimney that curves rightish, above. I recall exiting the chimney onto the ramp on its right, eventually. Steve was geologist living in Golden and wanted to check out the so-called Clear Creek Fault Caves. We could name this Fault Cave Crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : West Side (Story) (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: This route is listed in the 1970 edition of High over Boulder, by Ament and McCarty. It might have been listed in earlier editions, which I don't have. No FA info is given therein. I led Steve Johnson up this already-climbed route, in the '70s.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Old Castle
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: The directions posted above are bogus. No trail exists uphill from the call-box pullout just a few sets of footprints heading up the steep, loose mountainside. Some of those footprints were left by me, my partner and our dog on the unpleasant slog up to the crag. We never found the so-called pad until we were at the base of the crag and could see the pad, which was far below, to the southeast.

To access the pad and the trail to the crag, drive three tenths of a mile east from the call box... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Watchtower : West Face AKA Cold Feelings (5.7 R)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: In '77, Claire and I did all three pitches, topped out, and walked off of the top. This was long before the house was built. The pic shows me leading only low on the route, because, I assume, the tourist/photographer didn't want to watch for hours. I had wanted to lead the clean, right-leaning dihedral near the top, but it seemed too hard to reach (based on what we could see once we were high on the route), so we topped out to its left, where the CF route line goes.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Table Top Area : Kevin Spies the Line (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: The protection bolts are rusty and should be replaced. The crux is getting to the first bolt and is somewhat protectable by less-than-bombproof cams. The anchor bolts look good.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cadaver Crack (5.11-)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: In May 1968, I was in a Colorado Mtn Club Intermediate Mountaineering class. Mike Beringer led this on aid, using pitons. George Ripley and I followed. We encountered an owl standing/sitting on the spacious ledge atop the crack; then we did another pitch to the summit. I remember my first experience of the fragrance of granite. In '82, I followed Mike Bearzi up it (no aid, no owl).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Jam on It (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: I'm sure people had been toproping these cracks long before the recorded ascent, which I infer was a lead. I think that leads, not topropes, must be done to claim first ascents. Even I have toproped this more than once.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Devil's Lake Revisited (5.7)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Hi Leo we were just climbing and didn't name it. The current name is OK, although I think it resembles the Gunks more than Devil's Lake. Let's get out sometime!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Coffin Crack (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: From the ground to the anchors, this route is about 83 feet tall. My first lead of this route was in 1972, after leading the two easier climbs to the right. I'm sure all three had been done before.


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