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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Areas = 15
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All 2493 | Routes 141 | Areas 36 | Photos 596 | Page Improvments | Comments 952 | Posts 401 | Stars 335 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arrowhead Arete : Arrowhead ArÍte (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Jan 15, 2009

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Comments: Can also be started by climbing Arrowhead Spire first and rapping off. At least, that is the way I did it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Dec 26, 2008

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Comments: The easiest way to climb the crux is using stemming, exactly because there are no huge jugs. Some small calcite face holds make it possible to move your feet up the stems. Also, there is no hard offwidth on pitch 1 if you go the easy way. I've done this route twice and would gladly repeat it many more times. I don't see what so many people are unhappy about.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak
By: George Bell When: Nov 20, 2008

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Comments: Shirt Tail peak was one of the earliest recorded features climbed in Eldorado Canyon. From the 5th Edition of High Over Boulder (Ament, McCarthy):

'In 1925, Charles Morris, poet/philosopher from Chicago, along with an unknown friend, is said to have climbed Shirt Tail Peak - high above Eldorado Canyon to the northwest. Morris reported that the ascent went "straight up the face" and that devices he called "pitons" were placed during the ascent. The name of the rock was derived when they posted ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Left Side (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: Beware the "Devil's Thumbnail" about 30' below the crux. We belayed from here and I sat my pack in a 6" slot, I assumed it only went down a few feet. My pack suddenly slid 15 feet down the slot, totally out of reach. Took 15 minutes of fishing with our cleaning tool to retrieve it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb
By: George Bell When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: Thanks to Bruce and Mike for replacing the rappel bolts! From these bolts, one could do a mind-blowing free rappel to the west. I don't know how long a rope would be needed (rumor has it a 70m single-strand makes it). Also, you could probably not pull your ropes since the rappel is rigged to go east. But it would be a wild rap.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Nov 17, 2008

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Comments: It's a motorized paraglider, very noisy. A standard paraglider looks the same, but is virtually silent...


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Standard Route (5.5 R)
By: George Bell When: Nov 12, 2008

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Comments: Fun route! The most memorable part was getting munched by black flies, though. Those buggers are nasty!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8+) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Nov 12, 2008

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Comments: I agree, you do have to traverse right to avoid that bulge and the line in the photo goes straight up over the bulge. This is the last 30 feet of pitch 5. I was leading this pitch, and it is pretty obvious you do not want to go straight up over the bulge (probably at least 5.9 R).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : Photo
By: George Bell When: Nov 3, 2008

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Comments: They are standing atop Green Mountain Pinnacle, I believe.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Photo
By: George Bell When: Oct 28, 2008

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Comments: Looks like the area around June Lake loop, maybe Grant Lake? If so, this is near where Steve Fosset went down! The ski area visible would be June Mountain Ski Area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatironette
By: George Bell When: Oct 26, 2008

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Comments: I would be nervous rapping off any dead tree. They have no "incentive" to remain attached to the rock, and can become dry and brittle and fail suddenly. This particular tree is probably fine, but I myself would choose the easy walk off since there is one available.


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock : Photo
By: George Bell When: Oct 22, 2008

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Comments: Actually, the rock atop Shiprock is remarkably solid. That block is the size of a Mack truck. But it does look rather precarious ...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Oct 17, 2008

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Comments: The link above seems to be dead. Here is a Wikipedia entry with a photo of a typeball.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area : Crabby Appleton (5.9 PG13)
By: George Bell When: Oct 17, 2008

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Comments: Oops. I stand corrected, Larry!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area : Crabby Appleton (5.9 PG13)
By: George Bell When: Oct 16, 2008

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Comments: But to the contrary, the p1 traverse is kind of cool. We do not all have to follow Messner and his proverbial drop of water falling from the summit!

By the way, I did not see a direct start listed in any of my Red Rocks guidebooks (Swain or Brock). There are several variations listed to many of the pitches, but not the first.


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Fields of Dreams Growing Wi... (5.11+ R) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Oct 16, 2008

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Comments: According to the Climbing Mag web site, this photo was taken by George Bracksieck.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Photo
By: George Bell When: Oct 15, 2008

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Comments: No railings on top of Half Dome, and usually not too many people. I've been where the person is in this photograph, but I've never seen anyone walk out on the diving board.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Lauren's Arete (5.9 R)
By: George Bell When: Oct 15, 2008

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Comments: Be extremely careful after unroping on this route. Ed named it for Lauren after the first ascent when she fell to her death on the descent.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area : Crabby Appleton (5.9 PG13)
By: George Bell When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: I don't remember it being too runout where it was hard, except maybe for the final pitch (which I did not lead). Fun route with an easy walk off.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area
By: George Bell When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: If memory serves, the gully appears blocked by an enormous boulder, but it turns out you can climb under the thing and tunnel up to the top. This is a good landmark to know you are in the correct place.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Oct 9, 2008

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Comments: "Favorite 5.7 pitch"?? How can that be, isn't it 5.9?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Deviation, Lower : East Face, Lower Deviation (5.8 R)
By: George Bell When: Oct 1, 2008

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Comments: We attempted a route on the far left side of this face. About 75 feet up is a belay stance with an ancient piton. There is very little to back the piton up.

Above the next 40 feet look tricky, but are probably only about 5.8. It's not clear if there will be any protection. Rather than risk a lead fall onto the piton, we retreated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Advocate : Northeast Ridge (5.6 PG13)
By: George Bell When: Oct 1, 2008

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Comments: The description says "Start at the N.W. Corner of the rock". Shouldn't this be "Start at the N.E. Corner of the rock"? This would jive with my memory and the photo (also the route name!).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Sep 29, 2008

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Comments: jhump, sounds like you started on Friday's and finished with Saturday's, this variation should be called "Sunday's Folly"? I don't understand why you traversed left. Friday's follows a continuous crack around the corner where it becomes 2-8" wide and zig-zags up and right, the crack goes all the way to the anchors as I recall. The pitch ends a few feet right of the two rappel bolts at the top of Saturday's.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Little Bear Peak : Northwest Face (Easy 5th Mod. Snow)
By: George Bell When: Sep 28, 2008

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Comments: I've scoped out this route and there are several places one could start. Is the black hand visible in this Photo?

One problem I've noticed is that snow or hail lingers on this face, and it's not clear how much harder this will make it.


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