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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Three : International Chimney (5.6 R) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Frosty & Keen: are these your real names, or just your WWF ring names? ;-)
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Salathe Wall (5.9 C2)
By: George Bell When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the most awesome routes on the planet! The 95 degree headwall is an amazing stretch of stone. Drop anything here and it will free fall for like 15 seconds.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Freerider (5.12d PG13)
By: George Bell When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out Clint Cummins' web page for history, beta and topos for this route, and other long Yosemite free routes. He has recorded free ascents of this route up to #32 in June 2008.
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Peak 11,300
By: George Bell When: Sep 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This peak should be under "Ruth Gorge".
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Ligneous Embracer (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Sep 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ligneous: "of or resembling wood". So the route name means "tree hugger".
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Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: George Bell When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It would appear these tickets are going to be in high demand. Anyone lucky enough to score 5 of them may be able to sell them for more. I really hope anyone who does this will donate the difference to Layton. I would hate to see this event turned into a scalping windfall when the money should go to help Layton Kor. Maybe the AAC should auction them off or something.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Aug 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a direct start that is 5.10. A lot of parties start up the face too soon and end up doing this. To add to the confusion, the line in the photo in S&R does not show the initial traverse.
There was a lot of snow in the descent couloir when we climbed this. We got by without ice axes by doing a few more rappels.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome East End : The Yawn (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good training for climbing the Salathe Wall on El Cap.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : On the Lamb (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jul 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the traverse really as steep as some of the photos suggest (i.e., 80 degrees in this Photo). Are some of the photos tilted a bit?
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Boulder Town
By: George Bell When: Jul 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are some large boulders on the island at the south end of Leigh Lake. This is a fun island to visit, the problem being that it is an island and requires a canoe, raft, or short swim.
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Location: CO : Bachar-Yerian without bolts...
By: George Bell When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yipes, why not just free solo it? I guess the B/Y wasn't scary enough for the Brits.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran : Direct South Buttress (5.9 C1)
By: George Bell When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very few people summit on this route, great job! A buddy of mine who has climbed both this route and the Nose in a day told me he thought this route + CMC descent was harder to do in a day. But I think he was yanking my chain. Nonetheless, a huge undertaking.
We did the raps from the bowl, and they take longer than you might think. You need 2 ropes, and most rappels end with some scrambling to the next, and coiling 2 ropes all the time gets old fast. It's either that or drag them through t... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The red dots show the "hard" way to do this pitch (5.9?). The easier way (5.7) follows the crack which curves right after following about 1/3 of the red dots.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Jul 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I thought the crack near the skyline was the normal way. This is the way we went, hardest part is right at the top of that crack.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Kaleidoscope Cracks (5.8) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where was this taken from? Top of Black Orpheus? Is Chicken Lips visible on the right side of the photo, or is it farther right?
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Hassler's Hatbox : Lucille (5.12d)
By: George Bell When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congrats to Pamela! Probably the first female ascent, eh? I had a hard enough time with the 5.10 OW crack to the left of Lucille/BB, somebody should add this to the database.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Degunker (5.8) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Jun 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Which is which? I'd be suspicious of anyone in Red Rocks wearing a balaclava or pile jacket in June. Apparently the FA was not in June.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Body Tremors (5.8+ PG13)
By: George Bell When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not convinced when a 5.11 leader (i.e. Tony) says this climb is reasonable for a 5.8 leader. Let's hear from some 5.8 leaders on how reasonable it is! I think the route name is a subtle hint which should not be ignored. Before the days of indoor gyms, your average climber didn't develop such mutant grip strength, and even those big jugs could become hard to hang onto. It is pretty close to vertical for a ways.
I'm not arguing that the route is runout. But the more pro you place, the ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The standard way to do it in 3 pitches is to combine 2&3 and 4&5 as listed in the above desciption. The first pitch still ends at the big tree. Done this way the last pitch is the longest one, and you need a 60m rope.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is on the 3rd pitch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the most awkward section of the climb. The pin visible left of the climber is not the greatest. You can back it up with a #4 Camalot. I've also done this move by climbing the face to the right and stepping back left.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : The Southwest Face (5.10)
By: George Bell When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for adding this, Doug! A friend of mine has an epic story of climbing this with a beginner. Something about marginal anchors and lots of hanging on the rope.
"the protection is ... reasonable ... with the exception of the belay stations."
This doesn't sound too good ... is there any way to split up the piches so the anchors are better?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Blondike (5.11b R) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the right facing corner on the left side of the photo the Salathe Route (in the Don Reid guide)? I would guess it is. I'm talking about the farthest right such corner, not the huge one on the left edge, which may be the route "Snake in the Grass".
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: George Bell When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The downclimb begins on the west-facing cliff directly under the rappel bolts. Follow some big jugs north, straight down and then back south to a 10 foot wide ledge (which you will also pass on the rappel). This starts out vertical and appears unlikely from above to be only 4th class. The route then follows a diagonal ramp leading south. Look below to the south and you will see an eye bolt on the next ledge down, scramble down to this eye bolt (only 50' below the summit, this is the intermed... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Jun 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any of you visited Delicate Arch, to see all the people who have generously signed it? This kind of thing can get out of hand quickly, 1000 years ago there were only a handful of Anasazi in the whole state cutting petroglyphs.
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