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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 60
Total Points: 5,891
Last Year: 68
Last 30 Days: 5
531 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2505 | Routes 141 | Areas 36 | Photos 597 | Page Improvements | Comments 956 | Posts 407 | Stars 336 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: George Bell When: Sep 21, 2011

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Comments: Will (or anyone else), just add the description of that pitch as a comment and the admins can add it to the route description.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Satan's Slab (5.8 R)
By: George Bell When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: Nic, if you went down the gully W of Satan's Slab those climbs may be "Doric Dihedral" and "Beware the Future" which are listed under the rock Satan's Slab. The Guardian is possible too, but I always have trouble seeing the bolts on that route from the creek.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: George Bell When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: We did a nice variation on our 3rd or 4th pitch. When you are nearing "Like Heaven" up the ramp (which bypasses it on the right), cross a gully to the left and head left onto the main south ridge of "Like Heaven", reaching the summit chains from the south. Then downclimb from the summit and continue as per usual. This way "Like Heaven" is not a side trip "extra credit" summit, you go right over it.

Heaven was an unpleasant spot yesterday inhabited by clouds of swarming gnats. At least these... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Hea...
By: George Bell When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: We were visited by a mountain lion yesterday while packing up at the base of Stairway to Heaven. Although it is only a few hundred yards off the Mesa Trail, the base of this climb seems remote and seldom visited. I'm sure the healthy crop of poison ivy keeps people out. The poison ivy in Skunk Canyon is really bad right now!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face Left (5.5)
By: George Bell When: Aug 19, 2011

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Comments: You can downclimb the SW chimney, see the description under that route. I've done it, but I prefer to bring a rope and rap because there is one spot that is a little slippery and holdless. I don't free solo any route except the Standard Route any more.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab...
By: George Bell When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: My guide is now at:
home.comcast.net/~gibell/cirqu...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Security Risk (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jun 21, 2011

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Comments: I submit that *many* multi-pitch routes are not done today following the exact line of the first ascent. Thus, the argument that "the original line is the way to go, because the FA team went that way", holds no water for me. I still recommend avoiding the original start, even if I may be in the minority.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b)
By: George Bell When: May 18, 2011

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Comments: Thanks, John. I do not advocate yellow bolts, but I thought it was an interesting piece of history about the route. I wish I had taken some photos of it back then!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b)
By: George Bell When: May 17, 2011

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Comments: The original bolts on this route were painted yellow. From the photos, it appears that this is no longer true.

Description should include descent info: Click your heels together three times while chanting "there's no place like Vegas."


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Mt. McKinley : Cassin Ridge (5.8 WI4) : Photo
By: George Bell When: May 17, 2011

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Comments: Yep. Check out this pic for a similar perspective.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Lower Exum Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: George Bell When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: Doesn't the 4th pitch go up the chimney on the other side of that tower (out of sight)? I don't seem to remember it facing west ...


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Lower Exum Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: George Bell When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: Either way works. When we did the 3rd class approach, at one point it went under a dripping waterfall from a recent storm. We were worried that ice could have formed under it (September) but it must have been just above freezing.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: George Bell When: May 8, 2011

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Comments: Yipes! Never noticed that big cave. ;-)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Folly : The Good Book (5.10d)
By: George Bell When: May 6, 2011

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Comments: Moss? Wow, amazing. There used to be lines at the base of this route (20 years ago). Awesome 3rd pitch, super pumpy.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Photo
By: George Bell When: May 5, 2011

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Comments: Whoa! The Angel Food wall looks like a tiny cliff, the entire cliff is really just a small feature in this pic!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: George Bell When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: This route is great, but the last two belays are not crowd friendly -- just two bolts without much of a stance. The last belay in particular is a hanging belay except for the leader who gets the foothold. To pass the people coming up, we rapped from the top of 4 all the way to 2 with two 60m ropes. A clever ploy until our ropes got hung up on the way down. We also got the rope hung up on the rap from the top of p 2, and others got ropes hung up on the p 1 rap. Recommend you pull your knots... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Group Therapy (5.7) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: Alternatively, you can scramble up and begin the pitch from the big block that (I think) is the one visible immediately to the left of the tree in the center of the photo. This block is a nice shady place in case it is sunny and hot. To get there (easily) scramble up a gully to the right and traverse back left.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Group Therapy (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: Great route! I also think this is the best route on the wall.

The start can be tricky to locate. Following SuperTopo, we scrambled up into Healy's Haunted House, a wide dark chimney. Once you locate this, look for a car-sized block on the left side of the base of this chimney. This block is visible in the beta photo for the first pitch (I think). We started the pitch by stepping left off this block and onto the face above. You can get to the block easily unroped from the usual start (beta... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Hop Route (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: The "nest of slings" 150 feet up has been removed, this rap anchor is now about 10 feet lower, a bunch of slings attached to a wire and around a block. The only problem is that this is 3 feet below the belay ledge, making for an awkward start to the rappel.

The bottom move past the wide section is the crux.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: I followed this route last weekend and IMHO it deserves at least a PG13 rating. Definitely a great route, but not for beginning 5.9 leaders.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Blanca Peak : Little Bear-Blanca Traverse (5.0)
By: George Bell When: Jan 31, 2011

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Comments: Awesome job, Matt and Micah! Congrats on the winter traverse!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : ... : North Ridge (5.5 Mod. Snow PG13)
By: George Bell When: Dec 31, 2010

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Comments: This route is really fun! Loose rock, of course, but that is expected up in Canada. The peak is gorgeous. The approach used to be a lot easier when you could do half of it on a mountain bike. Too bad they shut this down. See our trip report from 2000:

right.com/climbing/tripreports...


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : ... : South Face/Schwartz Ledges (Easy 5th AI2-3 Steep Snow X)
By: George Bell When: Dec 31, 2010

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Comments: I attempted this route many years ago. We had perfect weather and first traversed over to the Wishbone Arete, but this route was rotten and covered with a foot of fresh snow. The next day we headed up the South Face but the weather window had closed and the peak was fogged in. Partway up we were lost, of course, and in a sudden clearing we saw we were wandering around right under a huge ice cliff. Down we went.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Ruth Gorge : Mt. Huntington : West Face Couloir (WI4+ M4 Steep Snow PG13)
By: George Bell When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: Awesome addition, Ken!


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Mt Triumph
By: George Bell When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: What is this mountain doing under Mt. Shuksan?


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