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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 60
Total Points: 5,891
Last Year: 68
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531 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2505 | Routes 141 | Areas 36 | Photos 597 | Page Improvements | Comments 956 | Posts 407 | Stars 336 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Rhodian Shores (5.10b)
By: George Bell When: Aug 2, 2001

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Comments: I also thought this route 5.10- in one section (3rd bolt or so?). I enjoyed the route as well as the Bihedral, I would not say the Bihedral is much worse. It is just trad climbing vs. sport.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jul 31, 2001

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Comments: This has got to be one of my favorite Eldo pitches. Fun crack climbing and thin face at the upper crux. You can throw in pro every 3 feet if you are scared (it is true that above the crux the pro is only once every 8 feet or so). Wearing a helmet on this route is definitely a good idea as it is directly below the upper pitches of Rewritten.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Jul 31, 2001

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Comments: At the top of p4, if you don't like the looks of the loose block, you can continue 20 ft up and belay on a nice ledge to the right of the arete. There is a good horn above the ledge to sling, and a nice crack at your feet. Fun route!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: George Bell When: Jul 26, 2001

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Comments: Agreed! I couldn't believe it one night when I went to climb it, the route was almost as mobbed as during the day. You don't really need a full moon at all with all the light coming off Boulder, so avoid the exact date of the full moon.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : The Notch Couloir (Mod. Snow)
By: George Bell When: Jul 17, 2001

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Comments: When you get to the top of the Notch Couloir, it is not necessary to rappel to go down the west side. The easiest way to get to the summit from the top of the couloir (the notch) is simply to scramble down to the west, and then do an ascending traverse to the northwest until you hit the homestretch (final section of the trail). I would recommend doing the route in spring or early summer, as the more rubble is showing the more unpleasant it is. I have never seen much real ice in it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Fandango (5.5)
By: George Bell When: Jul 17, 2001

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Comments: If you have only a 50m rope, instead of rapping straight west from the summit eye bolt, rappel southwest to another eye bolt on a ramp about 60 feet down. This is on the downclimb route (SW side). From the second eyebolt it is another 60 foot rap (approx) to the ground. Rappelling is recommended unless you known where the downclimb goes, it is easy to get on harder terrain if you don't know where to go.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: George Bell When: Jul 12, 2001

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Comments: Actually I thought there were probably 6 individual cruxes starting with the traverse right to the first roof that are each 5.10+ or harder. Near the top there is a good handhold to the left of the thin crack; it is awkward using this hold as it pulls you left away from the crack, where it is more overhanging. I thought one crux (perhaps the hardest) was inching my butt up onto this hold. After that you have a no-hands rest, and it is mere "easy 10" to the top. Needless to say, I o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jun 28, 2001

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Comments: Yes, this route has been under the Peregrine falcon restriction ever since an ascent of this route by some friends of mine. As "Ilana" and "Britt" (not their real names, these are randomly chosen pseudonyms) climbed the route one summer, they were continually pestered by a frantic falcon. They called the open space managers (or is it JeffCo managers) and reported the incident. The next week the cliff was closed. The thing that upsets me is that I don't think they check yearly to see if the n... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Friends in High Places (5.10a)
By: George Bell When: Jun 12, 2001

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Comments: I'd vote for a PG13 rating on this climb. I followed the route, but I remember it seems hard to stop and place gear, and there are few placements available.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Route That Dan Missed (5.10 X)
By: George Bell When: Jun 11, 2001

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Comments: Beware about a cool looking variation to the last pitch of Cosmosis, called in Rossiter "The Route that Dan Missed". Despite what Rossiter's topo would lead one to believe, THERE ARE NO BOLTS on this arete variation, making it 5.10R/X. Anybody know the history on this? My info is from a few years ago, so it's possible the bolts are there now, but check for them before launching blindly into the lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: George Bell When: Jun 7, 2001

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Comments: Most aesthetic way to start this route is from the first 3 pitches of the Yellow Spur, but this considerably harder than Icarus (5.9). You can traverse right to the arete in several places, but the arete is 5.8ish and unprotected. Rapping the gully between Lumpe Tower and T1 is to be avoided. The last rap (from a big tree) is 48m and it took us 20 mins to get our rope down (knot snags going over the edge).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: George Bell When: Jun 7, 2001

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Comments: Great route with some tricky route finding. I am unsure whether this description is of the standard route or Walton Traverse. When I did this route recently, I traversed down from the tree (that ends the first pitch past the crows nest). This was wild and exposed (and off route), probably a little harder than the standard route (which traverses up, then down from the tree).

The famous rap can be done with a single 60m rope, although just barely. The rap would be quite scary in high winds (ev... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Note that it is possible to combine the first 3 pitches with a 60m rope, and one can combine the last 2 pitches even with a 50m rope (but watch out for rope drag).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: One remarkable fact is that the FA of this route (Jan 11, 1925, not 1924?) was in winter! Kiener's partner, Agnes Vaille, died on the descent. I learned this by reading William Bueler's book "Roof of the Rockies". I've climbed this route in both summer and winter, and as you might expect it's definitely more challenging in the winter. More surprising was the fact that the cruxes are not in the same place. In winter, we found the hardest spot on about the 3rd pitch after crossing the Notch Couloi... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: We also became lost searching for the infamous 5.6 chimney. Charles, is the variation you describe the same as Rossiters 4b "Original Finish"? On pitch 4, we found ourselves at the base of a short right facing dihedral directly on the nose of the South Ridge. From here you can see the final 5.9 pitch in Rossiter only about 75-100 above you. But the short right facing dihedral is RP sized and brutal to free climb. We resorted to a move or two of aid (on RPs). Brett Ruckman told me later he has do... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Great route, I do it at least once a year! You can combine many of the pitches if you want to zoom up the route (not recommended for your first time). Pitch 1 is short but impossible to combine due to its zig-zag nature. But after that, even with a 50m rope, you can combine 2&3, 4&5, 6&7 to make the whole climb a 4 pitch route! These pitch numbers refer to those in Rossiters guide, note that in Charles description he has already combined 4&5. You must be careful with your pro when you combine so... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : A Hike With Ludwig Dude (5.10a PG13)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I was able to get a TCU or something in, maybe 25 feet below the bolt. I say PG.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : Crack Tack (5.10a R)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: No way is this an X route. There are actually quite a few natural placements after the bolt, and even one below the bolt as I recall. I even question a PG rating.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Eric Winkleman has done the route several times, and knows the route better than anybody I know. That tricky pitch involves some devious traverse (I can't remember which way!). However, Bill Wright attempted the route last summer with tons of beta from Eric and still got confused, also the weather came in and they had to bail.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I did this route yesterday (3/4/01) for the second time. I have always found this route difficult for the 10a rating. The first pitch is very crimpy and if your finger strength goes you are history. It is also very sequency and there is no place to get off your arms. One tip - if you are 6 ft or over, you can clip the first bolt before you commit to the wall. It is just barely possible.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A better descent in my opinion is the East Ridge of the First Buttress as described in Rossiter. Walk left (east) from the summit along the ridge. Soon you reach a point where your are forced back right a little, go out to this point and look below you for a rap anchor. Do one 75 rap, then scramble down a gully, eventually winding back north to the base of the face. From here you are about 5 minutes below the start of the route. Ive not done the standard descent but have heard lots of complaints... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Also, it can't hurt to mention that this route starts in the same spot as the Culp-Bossier. Unfortunately, this makes for considerable crowding on that first pitch.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Wolf's Tooth (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Do not expect a casual 5.8 on this one. I did it for the second time recently and the first pitch feels to me as hard as Conads! It certainly is a bit scary ...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: When I climbed this route, we had trouble finding the Zot Face. From the tree at the end of the 4th pitch, Rossiter says something like "step right, then go up". In reality you must go quite a ways to the right, at least 25 ft I would say. We went straight up and missed the pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch of this climb is a scary lead, especially if you are expecting a 5.5 romp up. The traverse right is unprotected, take care to place pro at the start of this section which will not rip out if you slip, or you could hit the ground.


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