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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Areas = 15
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All 2493 | Routes 141 | Areas 36 | Photos 596 | Page Improvments | Comments 952 | Posts 401 | Stars 335 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : The Notch Couloir (Mod. Snow)
By: George Bell When: Jul 17, 2001

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Comments: When you get to the top of the Notch Couloir, it is not necessary to rappel to go down the west side. The easiest way to get to the summit from the top of the couloir (the notch) is simply to scramble down to the west, and then do an ascending traverse to the northwest until you hit the homestretch (final section of the trail). I would recommend doing the route in spring or early summer, as the more rubble is showing the more unpleasant it is. I have never seen much real ice in it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Fandango (5.5)
By: George Bell When: Jul 17, 2001

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Comments: If you have only a 50m rope, instead of rapping straight west from the summit eye bolt, rappel southwest to another eye bolt on a ramp about 60 feet down. This is on the downclimb route (SW side). From the second eyebolt it is another 60 foot rap (approx) to the ground. Rappelling is recommended unless you known where the downclimb goes, it is easy to get on harder terrain if you don't know where to go.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: George Bell When: Jul 12, 2001

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Comments: Actually I thought there were probably 6 individual cruxes starting with the traverse right to the first roof that are each 5.10+ or harder. Near the top there is a good handhold to the left of the thin crack; it is awkward using this hold as it pulls you left away from the crack, where it is more overhanging. I thought one crux (perhaps the hardest) was inching my butt up onto this hold. After that you have a no-hands rest, and it is mere "easy 10" to the top. Needless to say, I o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jun 28, 2001

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Comments: Yes, this route has been under the Peregrine falcon restriction ever since an ascent of this route by some friends of mine. As "Ilana" and "Britt" (not their real names, these are randomly chosen pseudonyms) climbed the route one summer, they were continually pestered by a frantic falcon. They called the open space managers (or is it JeffCo managers) and reported the incident. The next week the cliff was closed. The thing that upsets me is that I don't think they check yearly to see if the n... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Friends in High Places (5.10a)
By: George Bell When: Jun 12, 2001

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Comments: I'd vote for a PG13 rating on this climb. I followed the route, but I remember it seems hard to stop and place gear, and there are few placements available.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Route That Dan Missed (5.10 X)
By: George Bell When: Jun 11, 2001

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Comments: Beware about a cool looking variation to the last pitch of Cosmosis, called in Rossiter "The Route that Dan Missed". Despite what Rossiter's topo would lead one to believe, THERE ARE NO BOLTS on this arete variation, making it 5.10R/X. Anybody know the history on this? My info is from a few years ago, so it's possible the bolts are there now, but check for them before launching blindly into the lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: George Bell When: Jun 7, 2001

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Comments: Most aesthetic way to start this route is from the first 3 pitches of the Yellow Spur, but this considerably harder than Icarus (5.9). You can traverse right to the arete in several places, but the arete is 5.8ish and unprotected. Rapping the gully between Lumpe Tower and T1 is to be avoided. The last rap (from a big tree) is 48m and it took us 20 mins to get our rope down (knot snags going over the edge).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: George Bell When: Jun 7, 2001

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Comments: Great route with some tricky route finding. I am unsure whether this description is of the standard route or Walton Traverse. When I did this route recently, I traversed down from the tree (that ends the first pitch past the crows nest). This was wild and exposed (and off route), probably a little harder than the standard route (which traverses up, then down from the tree).

The famous rap can be done with a single 60m rope, although just barely. The rap would be quite scary in high winds (ev... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Note that it is possible to combine the first 3 pitches with a 60m rope, and one can combine the last 2 pitches even with a 50m rope (but watch out for rope drag).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: One remarkable fact is that the FA of this route (Jan 11, 1925, not 1924?) was in winter! Kiener's partner, Agnes Vaille, died on the descent. I learned this by reading William Bueler's book "Roof of the Rockies". I've climbed this route in both summer and winter, and as you might expect it's definitely more challenging in the winter. More surprising was the fact that the cruxes are not in the same place. In winter, we found the hardest spot on about the 3rd pitch after crossing the Notch Couloi... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: We also became lost searching for the infamous 5.6 chimney. Charles, is the variation you describe the same as Rossiters 4b "Original Finish"? On pitch 4, we found ourselves at the base of a short right facing dihedral directly on the nose of the South Ridge. From here you can see the final 5.9 pitch in Rossiter only about 75-100 above you. But the short right facing dihedral is RP sized and brutal to free climb. We resorted to a move or two of aid (on RPs). Brett Ruckman told me later he has do... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Great route, I do it at least once a year! You can combine many of the pitches if you want to zoom up the route (not recommended for your first time). Pitch 1 is short but impossible to combine due to its zig-zag nature. But after that, even with a 50m rope, you can combine 2&3, 4&5, 6&7 to make the whole climb a 4 pitch route! These pitch numbers refer to those in Rossiters guide, note that in Charles description he has already combined 4&5. You must be careful with your pro when you combine so... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : A Hike With Ludwig Dude (5.10a PG13)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I was able to get a TCU or something in, maybe 25 feet below the bolt. I say PG.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : Crack Tack (5.10a R)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: No way is this an X route. There are actually quite a few natural placements after the bolt, and even one below the bolt as I recall. I even question a PG rating.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Eric Winkleman has done the route several times, and knows the route better than anybody I know. That tricky pitch involves some devious traverse (I can't remember which way!). However, Bill Wright attempted the route last summer with tons of beta from Eric and still got confused, also the weather came in and they had to bail.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I did this route yesterday (3/4/01) for the second time. I have always found this route difficult for the 10a rating. The first pitch is very crimpy and if your finger strength goes you are history. It is also very sequency and there is no place to get off your arms. One tip - if you are 6 ft or over, you can clip the first bolt before you commit to the wall. It is just barely possible.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A better descent in my opinion is the East Ridge of the First Buttress as described in Rossiter. Walk left (east) from the summit along the ridge. Soon you reach a point where your are forced back right a little, go out to this point and look below you for a rap anchor. Do one 75 rap, then scramble down a gully, eventually winding back north to the base of the face. From here you are about 5 minutes below the start of the route. Ive not done the standard descent but have heard lots of complaints... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Also, it can't hurt to mention that this route starts in the same spot as the Culp-Bossier. Unfortunately, this makes for considerable crowding on that first pitch.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Wolf's Tooth (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Do not expect a casual 5.8 on this one. I did it for the second time recently and the first pitch feels to me as hard as Conads! It certainly is a bit scary ...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: When I climbed this route, we had trouble finding the Zot Face. From the tree at the end of the 4th pitch, Rossiter says something like "step right, then go up". In reality you must go quite a ways to the right, at least 25 ft I would say. We went straight up and missed the pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch of this climb is a scary lead, especially if you are expecting a 5.5 romp up. The traverse right is unprotected, take care to place pro at the start of this section which will not rip out if you slip, or you could hit the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I do not understand why Rossiter downrated it either. I actually thought Bolting for Glory was almost easier than the top of Touch Go, because the cruxes on Bolting are over quickly.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral (5.8+ PG13)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is a fun route but a little spicy on the second pitch. Also, I found it hard to find a good belay anchor at the top, which is a mass of rotten flakes. I went 30 ft farther to a large tree! The latest Rossiter tells you to walk off east, but I think it works out better to go west. You can traverse east back to the base of the climb (passing right under the 12a Edge of Reality).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Turnkorner (5.10a)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I don't remember as much offwidthing as Charles indicates. The section on the 4th pitch is pretty short, and there is a bolt there. On the 5th pitch (I remember only 2 roofs?), it is possible to face climb around the OW crux(?) on the right. This is not indicated on Rossiter's topo. Basically, right at the roof, reach right for some small face holds. Pull right, then climb more of less straight up the face for 15 to 20 ft to rejoin the crack. This avoids much OWing, HOWEVER it is also 5.10 and c... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : D1 (5.12a)
By: George Bell When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Thanks for adding this historic route, Steve_ The info on belays and pitch combinations can not be found in any guide. For those of us who can not climb 12a, I am always interested in what a modern aid rating might be for this route (plus rack info). Perhaps someone else will comment. Has anyone recently donw this route at (say) 5.10 A1, and still made it in a day? Is there any reasonable place to bivy?.


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