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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face Left (5.5)
By: George Bell When: Aug 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can downclimb the SW chimney, see the description under that route. I've done it, but I prefer to bring a rope and rap because there is one spot that is a little slippery and holdless. I don't free solo any route except the Standard Route any more.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab...
By: George Bell When: Jul 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My guide is now at:
home.comcast.net/~gibell/cirque/
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Security Risk (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Jun 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I submit that *many* multi-pitch routes are not done today following the exact line of the first ascent. Thus, the argument that "the original line is the way to go, because the FA team went that way", holds no water for me. I still recommend avoiding the original start, even if I may be in the minority.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b)
By: George Bell When: May 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, John. I do not advocate yellow bolts, but I thought it was an interesting piece of history about the route. I wish I had taken some photos of it back then!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b)
By: George Bell When: May 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original bolts on this route were painted yellow. From the photos, it appears that this is no longer true.
Description should include descent info: Click your heels together three times while chanting "there's no place like Vegas."
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Mt. McKinley : Cassin Ridge (5.8 WI4) : Photo
By: George Bell When: May 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep. Check out this pic for a similar perspective.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Lower Exum Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: George Bell When: May 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doesn't the 4th pitch go up the chimney on the other side of that tower (out of sight)? I don't seem to remember it facing west ...
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Lower Exum Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: George Bell When: May 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Either way works. When we did the 3rd class approach, at one point it went under a dripping waterfall from a recent storm. We were worried that ice could have formed under it (September) but it must have been just above freezing.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: George Bell When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yipes! Never noticed that big cave. ;-)
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Folly : The Good Book (5.10d)
By: George Bell When: May 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moss? Wow, amazing. There used to be lines at the base of this route (20 years ago). Awesome 3rd pitch, super pumpy.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Photo
By: George Bell When: May 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoa! The Angel Food wall looks like a tiny cliff, the entire cliff is really just a small feature in this pic!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: George Bell When: Apr 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is great, but the last two belays are not crowd friendly -- just two bolts without much of a stance. The last belay in particular is a hanging belay except for the leader who gets the foothold. To pass the people coming up, we rapped from the top of 4 all the way to 2 with two 60m ropes. A clever ploy until our ropes got hung up on the way down. We also got the rope hung up on the rap from the top of p 2, and others got ropes hung up on the p 1 rap. Recommend you pull your knots... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Group Therapy (5.7) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Apr 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alternatively, you can scramble up and begin the pitch from the big block that (I think) is the one visible immediately to the left of the tree in the center of the photo. This block is a nice shady place in case it is sunny and hot. To get there (easily) scramble up a gully to the right and traverse back left.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Group Therapy (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Apr 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! I also think this is the best route on the wall.
The start can be tricky to locate. Following SuperTopo, we scrambled up into Healy's Haunted House, a wide dark chimney. Once you locate this, look for a car-sized block on the left side of the base of this chimney. This block is visible in the beta photo for the first pitch (I think). We started the pitch by stepping left off this block and onto the face above. You can get to the block easily unroped from the usual start (beta... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Hop Route (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Apr 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "nest of slings" 150 feet up has been removed, this rap anchor is now about 10 feet lower, a bunch of slings attached to a wire and around a block. The only problem is that this is 3 feet below the belay ledge, making for an awkward start to the rappel.
The bottom move past the wide section is the crux.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Apr 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I followed this route last weekend and IMHO it deserves at least a PG13 rating. Definitely a great route, but not for beginning 5.9 leaders.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Blanca Peak : Little Bear-Blanca Traverse (5.0)
By: George Bell When: Jan 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome job, Matt and Micah! Congrats on the winter traverse!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : ... : North Ridge (5.5 Mod. Snow PG13)
By: George Bell When: Dec 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is really fun! Loose rock, of course, but that is expected up in Canada. The peak is gorgeous. The approach used to be a lot easier when you could do half of it on a mountain bike. Too bad they shut this down. See our trip report from 2000:
wwwright.com/climbing/tripreports/2000/Canada.htm
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : BC's Canadian Rockies : ... : South Face/Schwartz Ledges (Easy 5th AI2-3 Steep Snow X)
By: George Bell When: Dec 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I attempted this route many years ago. We had perfect weather and first traversed over to the Wishbone Arete, but this route was rotten and covered with a foot of fresh snow. The next day we headed up the South Face but the weather window had closed and the peak was fogged in. Partway up we were lost, of course, and in a sudden clearing we saw we were wandering around right under a huge ice cliff. Down we went.
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Ruth Gorge : Mt. Huntington : West Face Couloir (WI4+ M4 Steep Snow PG13)
By: George Bell When: Dec 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome addition, Ken!
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Mt Triumph
By: George Bell When: Nov 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is this mountain doing under Mt. Shuksan?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Fields of Dreams Growing Wi... (5.11+ R) : Photo
By: George Bell When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic pic, Pete!! Thanks for adding this.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Group Therapy (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Nobody is nearly dead." Hey, cool route name!!
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Photo
By: George Bell When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sad. I wonder what the Teton Glacier looks like?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: George Bell When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I see what you mean, perhaps it is more that 5.2 and 5.4 are often graded inconsistently because the graders have trouble distinguishing them. It is the people who notice the jump from 5.2 to 5.4 that should be grading these climbs!
Soloing almost requires a different grading system....
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