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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Fiscal Cliff : Systemic Risk (5.11a)
By: Geoff U When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pulled off a melon-sized hold, but thankfully had rope and belayer a bit upstream and out of rockfall area. Cool route - very pumpy, but still a bit dirty. Seemed mid-11 to me....
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Fiscal Cliff
By: Geoff U When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really neat area - definitely a lot of potential remaining, even for a few long pitches. Still cleaning up though - pulled off a considerable amount of rock when was here. Also, ticks in the area. A plus though is we stayed dry when it was raining.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Golden Slumber (5.10d)
By: Geoff U When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never seen a bat here - btw, there's a fixed piece of gear between 4th and 5th bolts (spaced ~12-15 feet apart), so no need now for placing a piece there....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Tooth and Nail (5.11a/b)
By: Geoff U When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rock quality isn't the best - don't need any gear either - enough bolts to protect adequately.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Upper Capitalist Crag : Fire The Boss (5.11c)
By: Geoff U When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux move on this route seemed harder than any single move on Free Enterprise....
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Conspiracy Crag
By: Geoff U When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Overall, approach is horrible and descent worse - be super careful, knocked some decent-sized rocks down the hill a few hundrend yards... rock quality is questionable on some of the routes still, broke a few holds - belays are pretty inconvenient/unstable. That said, the movement on some of the routes is great and compensates for the over terrible things about the crag. I'd say it's worth going to once or twice.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Conspiracy Crag : Designer Genes (5.12a)
By: Geoff U When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really great movement and good jamming but sharp in places (should have taped up). Belayer should wear goggles or glasses - non stop showering of sand and lichen... also broke a foothold near bottom. Solid rock higher up.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Conspiracy Crag : Martians on Mopeds (5.11c)
By: Geoff U When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st pitch is ok, but big rope drag when traversing to anchors on left route - can add a directional as 1st bolt of second pitch to help reduce drag. Have to TR to clean pretty much. 2nd pitch is awful - very crumbly - broke a few holds, movement not fun at all. 2nd pitch on route just left (Frankenfood) is great though.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Conspiracy Crag : Frankenfood (5.11c)
By: Geoff U When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second pitch is great - 1st is ok, but lots of loose rock on the first still.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Prestige Worldwide Wall : F**king Catalina Wine Mixer (5.11b)
By: Geoff U When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I completely missed something - and it was first route of the day - but the move to the 3rd bolt definitely felt more like 12-.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Too! (5.12a)
By: Geoff U When: Oct 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: P3 is really fun - a fair amount of decent holds (bigger than half pad - through crux section, maybe not). Lichens didn't reduce friction though. P4 was good fun - all moves ~11c/d except for the two-three move crux sequence that is not 12a. Surprisingly minimal loose rock - didn't break off anything, which is fortunate as some not-so-smart climbers decided to set up directly below us as we were on P3 and didn't even wear helmets, though they did have them sitting on the ground when we got ba... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Free Fall (5.12a)
By: Geoff U When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alternative BETA Alert: so I did this entirely differently... actually statically though I normally don't always climb statically. I had my right hand gastoning the flake just left of crux bolt, then did a big cross over to the good part of the slot before the jug which made the left hand really positive. This also allowed me to not be so scrunched at the crux when getting high feet. Went right hand to sloping pinch below jug, got left foot to ticked hold, flagged right, and slowly went right... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Raven's Brew (5.11d)
By: Geoff U When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this really done by reaching the jugs from the undercling or is the intermediate crimp used? I traversed left to the arete and then came back right... was probably off-route but still hard and pumpy.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Shady Girl (5.10a)
By: Geoff U When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area has hardly been visited. Decent climb - terrible approach... walk further downroad up a grassy slope and then back to the west - avoid scrambling up the loose dirt like I did on the west side. Route isn't 10a.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Interzone (5.10c PG13)
By: Geoff U When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will happily avoid - dirty and runout. Poor rock quality at crux. Felt insecure even on top rope. Somehow my partner enjoyed the route though.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Hunky Monkey (5.11b/c)
By: Geoff U When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super enjoyable 1st 2 pitches that can be linked - no gear needed. Slab was crux for me on P3.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination (5.11b)
By: Geoff U When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st 2 pitches are bolted well - would have appreciated a couple pieces on the 3rd though... a couple ~25 ft runouts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Strange Cargo (5.11a)
By: Geoff U When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny, but enjoyed everything but the last pitch... maybe 1 or 2 stars? Probably would have helped if known that couldn't rappel (left two biners) and would have benefited from some gear. Really enjoyed linking the first two pitches though, but would have happily skipped the 3rd.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Unknown Q (5.10b)
By: Geoff U When: May 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought I'd pass along that only one of the anchor hangers has a ring to rap off of... the other bolt is a thick hanger, so probably not too bad to rap off but definitely can't lower off
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Contra (5.11)
By: Geoff U When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't see how a dyno at the top is necessary. I felt it was fairly static by going with the left hand and rotating the left hip into the wall. Fun, thoughtful route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Aries (5.10)
By: Geoff U When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this was a great route. Starting left on the sloping rail is a little tricky, but fun. Did not feel height-dependent or unnatural; just thoughtful. Great route to access Contra above.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Pretty Woman (5.10a)
By: Geoff U When: Aug 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, a little loose rock at the roof, but much better than before. Necessary holds are solid. Does anyone know why there is a small bell tied to the first bolt with a red ribbon?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Geoff U When: Apr 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route... can do as single pitch with bolt elimination at P2 and slings.
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