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Member Since: Nov 17, 2009
Last Visit: Jan 29, 2013
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Geoff Unger been climbing?










Contributions


All 74 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 4 | Stars 17 | Ratings 12

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area : Chaos Boulder : Photo (Copy)
By: Geoff Unger When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: This must be an old photo. The underclings he is grabbing are now sitting on the ground covering his bouldering pad. According to local Lisa Hathaway, it only to 'light pressure' to bring all of those flakes crashing down. Tons and tons of rock. Now the giant slabs are good places to sit as opposed to good underclings.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Dolofright (5.11d R)
By: Geoff Unger When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: I would like to preface this by saying that I have been climbing for a lot of years in the desert and am no stranger to runouts and questionable rock.

In the summit register Dan Osman says something like:
'Dolofright, more bolts, more cleaning, ok moves, second ascent'

I would guess that the Dolofright has seen one hundred ascents or so since it was put up in the 90s(the summit register would tell a different story). I found that the rock was a little bit friable, but most of the holds were ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: Geoff Unger When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: For some reason I never noticed this tower or didn't know there was a route on it. I read the beta from Darren Knezek and tried to free this thing. I found that the free climbing to gain the bolt ladder to be about 5.10 or 5.10+ then the desperate sandiness began. There is some nice patina up there, but for the most part, the rock deteriorates rapidly after you leave the horizontal bands with the big huecos. I would humbly rate this face more like 5.12c or 5.12d after struggling from bolt to ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Disappearing Devil : Devil May Care (5.10b R)
By: Geoff Unger When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route. We had just done the Disappearing Angel via Satan's Revenge and didn't have a larger cam. Although the climbing was much more reasonable on this tower, one number 4 camalot would have made things a little more comfortable. Instead, I used a couple of smaller cams in shallow horizontals(not ideal). Overall awesome face climbing.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Disappearing Angel : Satan's Revenge (5.12a PG13)
By: Geoff Unger When: Dec 16, 2010

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Comments: Great info Josh. I climbed this thing the other day with my friend Jake Warren. I would say that the beta for the rack was right on and the climbing was serious and challenging, but not as dangerous as Dolofright. Definitely a warm weather route. Maybe October or March instead of December.

I would like to mention that the rappel anchor on the summit of this route is not ideal. There is one good drilled angle and a bolt that is not great. Whoever placed it may not have drilled their hole d... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Phallus : SW Face (5.9 C3 R)
By: Geoff Unger When: Dec 11, 2010

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Comments: Just did this thing today. I had always admired it from the road and never went over to climb it. Before reading Matt's post(and not knowing that it had seen a clean ascent before), I rated it exactly the same way. 5.9 C3 R. You definitely do not want to blow it early on and there is some sporty free climbing at the traverse. I ended up free climbing the whole section after the bolts to below the cap rock and it got my attention. Our idea was to do a day of 'easy' free climbing towers in the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Fernando (5.11b)
By: Geoff Unger When: Nov 21, 2009

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Comments: This is a great route. I would have to say that it is one of the best face routes that I have done at Potash. If only it were 100 feet long or longer.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Mars
By: Geoff Unger When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: I noticed that the development of this crag entailed the use of some sealant on the hand and foot holds. I am guessing that this was used to help preserve the rock. I have not seen this in use before in the desert. It seems that we just take it as a matter of course that climbs change and erode over time. It will be interesting to see if this technique helps to slow the erosion/hold breaking process.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Mars : Big Horny Sheep (5.12a)
By: Geoff Unger When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: Cool crux transition into a lay-back off of a pinch. There is an ear handhold up higher on the route that may break off at some point and make the climbing more challenging.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Mars : Hubble (5.11+)
By: Geoff Unger When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: Probably the best route at this crag. Very interesting and engaging climbing all the way to the anchor.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Mars : Alien Abduction (5.12a)
By: Geoff Unger When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: Cool crimpy climbing. Maybe a little easier if you step left at around the third bolt. Climbing it directly straddling the bolts I felt made it solid at the grade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Mt. Everest : Kangshung Face (5.8)
By: Geoff Unger When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: I climbed Everest and K2. Freed both of them. Everest is 5.8 with weird gear and I thought K2 was 5.9 or 5.9+ R with a one bolt anchor on the summit. If you actually had to hang on the gear it probably would have been A2. I have a photo and can post a separate description if you want Ben.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Shelbyville : Mr. Putterman Goes to Washi... (5.9+ A1)
By: Geoff Unger When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: I climbed this route today and I would not really recommend it. The first pitch was maybe one and a half stars and after that it goes in the tank. We freed this tower and are not sure where the aid would go.
The only thing to recommend this tower is that you get a nice view of Kane Springs canyon that you can get from just about everywhere else in Kane Springs canyon.