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the starting layback on the first ascent.


Member Since: Feb 8, 2010
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact geoff georges

Point Rank: # 165
Total Points: 3,182
Last Year: 940
Last 30 Days: 146
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has geoff georges been climbing?










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All 2836 | Routes 222 | Areas 13 | Photos 82 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 351 | Posts 27 | Stars 1185 | Ratings 954
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Orange Peel (5.9)
By: geoff georges When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Wow, thats pretty funny, also in Viktor's book is Jim Nelson on FA of Exotic Dancer- which he says it was not him.
I always wondered about the bolted anchor that is on the buttress partway up the 2nd pitch of Sabar- but too far away and would not been placed for that route- figured it was done for Orange Peel.
Thanks for looking this up.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Hakuna Matata (5.10-)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: This one really needs a anchor upgrade.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend Center : Local Knowledge (5.10b)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: Jim, thanks for the info. next route right is fine for rap.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Orange Peel (5.9)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: Jon Nelson- care to elaborate on this?


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Canary (5.8)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: We always started at the Old Grey Mare start, good corner with pro. You can do the unprotected 15' face climb, but is 5.8 really worth you blowing a foot on the face moves?


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Saints (5.8)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: I was climbing Midway with Fred a couple of years ago and was trying to get out of him if they placed the aluminum hanger 1/4" bolt on Saints on the first ascent, he thinks not but can't remember. He commented that he tried it again some time ago in the 90's and thought the 1st pitch crux and the face moves past the bolt on the 2nd pitch much harder then 5.8. But then again he thought the 1st pitch of Midway might be 5.7, and I don't think it is ever harder then 5.5, and probably 5.4- it's origi... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Lower Castle Rock : Aids Victim (5.10c)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: I remember clipping the bashies, it was scary.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Winter Block : The winter of my discount t... (5.10+)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Jon, I try, but will never come close to your route names. The Eggcorn is a idiosyncratic substitution of a word, not to be confused with malapropism.
As you can see, it has taken me a long time to enter these routes, mostly because I was not finding any names that fit, so Kurt needed names for his book and I had to tag them with random silly names. At least this one follows the winter theme.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Winter Block
By: geoff georges When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Micah, if you are monitoring this, can you place " sun will never rise" between Winter walk and Tweedledum.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Mercy Street (5.10b)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: Sherri, we are always on the same tour, this time a couple of days off. This is an awesome line.
I wanted to do this before, always too wet, now is the time, also great one for avoiding the sun.
If you are going to switch back and forth from lay-back to jamming I would say TAPE GLOVES.
Looks to me like Brian added this route without climbing it, who adds a route and says unsure about the gear? Both of above posting covered this. I thought 3) #2 great to have, 2)#3 camalot.
It could... more >>


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend West : Ambient Domain (5.10c)
By: geoff georges When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: I was intimidated to try this after watching a guy fall near the top, his single cam held him while every piece below zippered out- all nuts. Turns out to be not too hard for 10c. It is a thin, and decent face holds make it possible to stem all the way up, which is good because the gear placing is tricky. There is a harder crux in the last part, probably why he fell.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend Center : Blue Wind (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Jim, I get really confused with the cracks, anchors, columns at Tieton. Is this the next crack right of Satori, 10b through roof? It has red slings on hangers. We did the one next right- Riptide? very sketchy gear at the bottom, with 10a moves and small roof pull on juggy hold near top, then small technical crack. anchor has cordellete.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend Center
By: geoff georges When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: we did the newly cleaned route on left side of Amigos and ta ta's. has bolt where you go on left side of roof, very good crack, maybe 5.9. Whoever is cleaning this give it a name here on MP.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend Center : MX (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Also gets my vote for best 10a crack. A 70m rope will get you back to the big ledge by rapping off the MX anchor. We used a 60m, and did some gear clip in down climbing.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : Winds of Change (5.10d)
By: geoff georges When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: This is an excellent route, prepare for battle at the top out, rest up with some stemming, have .5 camalot ready and go for it. The book says gear to 1.5", there are plenty of places where a #2 and #3 camalot will fit too. tripple in #.5


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Krimo Gold (5.10d)
By: geoff georges When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Mountain hick,I almost wrote mountainchick, my guess is that Canadians don't really embrace MP. Also it is a variation to the older Liquid Gold, sharing the best 1st and last pitch.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Peshastin Pinnacles State P... : Grand Central Tower : Grand Central Tower-Southea... : West Face (5.8)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: popular for a good reason, very good route. Fred attempted it this spring, thought it way harder then 5.8, said it was easier before. I asked him when he did it last, could not remember, maybe 20 years ago or more.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Peshastin Pinnacles State P... : Austrian Slab : Austrian Slab (5.8)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Fred insists that he climbed this with an Austrian guy- hence the name, not with Eric or Don. So I showed him his Leavenworth guide book which Viktor likely copied, he still insists it is wrong, says maybe Eric wrote that.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Plum Pudding (5.9)
By: geoff georges When: May 16, 2015

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Comments: I don't think this is any harder then 5.9, and it would probably be 5.8 in Ca.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Deception Wall : Jiffy Pop (5.7)
By: geoff georges When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: Scott, do you mean there is no anchor on top of the pedestal that is the end of jiffy pop? there was before.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area : Columns Holiday (5.10c)
By: geoff georges When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Andyf- did you rebolt this with nice big SS bolts?


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Shady Chimney (5.7)
By: geoff georges When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: I witnessed Canyon/Desert Wren nesting in this 4/12/15. Let them be, more shy then pidgins


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Narlux (5.10c)
By: geoff georges When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: This was an onsight for me years back, seemed really scary more recently. Bolts are further apart then average Vantage sport climb, not R rated, but tricky and heart pumping.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Stems and Seeds (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: description here does not mention that you will want some hand size gear for upper 3rd.
I agree it is 10c


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Powerhouse Wall : Take Hold of the Flame (5.10d)
By: geoff georges When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: I agree with above assessment, weird bolting, ground fall potential if you don't make the 3rd clip, awkward and harder by 2 grades then Violator.


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