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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Rough Rider Wall : Unknown Right of One With E... (5.11-)
By: Geir When: Apr 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "The route formerly known as unknown right of unknown aka fun fun fun"
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: Geir When: Mar 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That anchor has two bolts.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Mar 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey J-
Don't know about everyone else but mine came from the first pitch. There are some pretty weird moves, particularly toward the end. I took some wild falls working on it, during one of which my leg snagged the rope. It was a lesson learned the hard way I guess. :)
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Cat On A Hot Thin Roof (5.11)
By: Geir When: Mar 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hahahaha Jim funny story. I remember hearing about that. Poor Erica must have been wishing she had some concrete blocks handy.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Alpine Follies Hangover (5.12)
By: Geir When: Mar 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 on eric's comment. Superb work!!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Unknown (L of Endgame) (5.11)
By: Geir When: Feb 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have climbed Poetry in Motion and can say for certain this climb is way too close to Poetry in Motion, as are parts of all the remaining bolted lines on this wall. Try climbing it some time and you'll see.
I don't mind dispersed bolted lines here and there in the Stronghold, but I do mind ones that completely change the previously existing trad lines here.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold
By: Geir When: Feb 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Teenage Wasteland is the more difficult one. The Fire Sermon is the easier one.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Aurora No Boreals (5.12-)
By: Geir When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congrats Clay!!!! Terrific!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : ... : Isle of You (5.9)
By: Geir When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Daryl,
Thanks for speaking up.
What I am happy about is that there was some discussion before the route was changed. Knowing you were a chief person in gathering opinions is greatly encouraging as I have always found you to be very considerate of what others think.
By the way, I have no issue with the discussion taking place in a forum other than MP so long as there is one and that people utilizing the area are welcome to participate.
I do want to revise one earlier remark. Rather than the... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : ... : Isle of You (5.9)
By: Geir When: Feb 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can understand some of the thinking that might have gone into this. If you are going to rap bolt a route it might as well be safe. Also, why should there be one climb with injury potential among a bunch of safe sport climbs? Whoever added the bolt probably had the best of intentions, particularly in light of the injury reported earlier.
However, I have two concerns. My first is that I feel similarly to John in that I don't think the person holding the rope while Mike did the FA has any bu... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : ... : Isle of You (5.9)
By: Geir When: Feb 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: [Edit] Earlier it was suggested that one could simply skip the new bolt.
This solution has been suggested before. The addition of a bolt changes the commitment level; this is as big a part of the challenge of the climb as the physical difficulty of the moves.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Feb 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm. I think I understand where you are coming from. Good to hear that you were part of the EB / Bong generation.
I guess when I hear people talk about the TR and chalk in this area, I don't view it as being whiny. I lump this in with other proactive solutions for reducing impact. Just two different reactions, I suppose.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Feb 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Walt,
The increasing popularity of climbing is precisely the reason we should be trying to minimize our impact. The forks is an amazing place, I think most people want to see it stay that way.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : 3RNs (5.6)
By: Geir When: Jan 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOL this is turning out to be as much entertainment as the climbing.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : 3RNs (5.6)
By: Geir When: Jan 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hahaha Arjun ... "ribald" ... very clever. :)
Your first guess was what we were thinking, but the alternate suggestions have been quite funny!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : 3RNs (5.6)
By: Geir When: Jan 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hahaha no that's not it. :)
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : 1923 (5.6)
By: Geir When: Jan 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb uses the rap anchors from 3RNs, but we will probably install a different set of anchors somewhere to the right if it looks like the climbing will continue at a similar grade.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Cap'm Pissgums (5.10+)
By: Geir When: Jan 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun adventure climbing that will challenge your trad skills and mettle. the crux pitch is very, very burly. if anyone is interested in a topo for this route you can find it at www.geir.com/climbs.html
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Slate Nation : Dancing With The Scars (5.10)
By: Geir When: Jan 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not trying to quibble or ruffle either - I just don't see the point of not sharing route names for routes that are already posted. This clearly does not affect access at all. An email with a route name seems the simplist and best way to fix things like this.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Toofast (5.10-)
By: Geir When: Jan 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks man you are awesome! :)
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Slate Nation : Unknown A (5.10a)
By: Geir When: Jan 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am confused as to why there is such a big difference in the ratings ... could this be a new route instead?
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Slate Nation : The Right Stuff (5.11)
By: Geir When: Jan 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps Scott could provide a name for this route? It would be a lot easier than having three unnamed routes here.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Slate Nation : Wire and Fire (5.11d)
By: Geir When: Jan 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps Scott could provide a route name? This would be a bit more clear than having three unnamed routes on the wall.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Slate Nation : Dancing With The Scars (5.10)
By: Geir When: Jan 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps Scott could provide a name? It would be a whole lot easier than having several unnamed routes.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon
By: Geir When: Jan 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congrats to Manny for getting the guide out for Iso!!! I already got my copy and can't wait to read it cover to cover.
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