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Member Since: Jun 7, 2006
Last Visit: 59 mins ago
Contact Geir


Point Rank: # 139
Total Points: 3,222
Last Year: 412
Last 30 Days: 0
52 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Geir been climbing?










Contributions


All 2474 | Routes 66 | Areas 19 | Photos 316 | Page Improvments | Comments 696 | Posts 873 | Stars 345 | Ratings 159
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Owl Rock : Nightstalker (5.9)
By: Geir When: Feb 25, 2013

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Comments: Hey Ryan, if the weather is nice just belay from the top and lower the second, third, etc. Much cleaner setup and you can enjoy the top for longer. :)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Solitude Canyon
By: Geir When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: Hey JJ,

Have you tried spray painting them? It makes them much less attractive to booty.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Sweet Surrender (5.11+ PG13)
By: Geir When: Feb 5, 2013

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Comments: Looks terrific Andy! I will help replace that old hardware if you want.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Flake-up Exam (5.8)
By: Geir When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Mark. We tried to keep the bolts to a minimum out there but sometimes wound up adding a bolt or two where we thought they might be needed. A couple of times we removed unnecessary bolts too.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin...
By: Geir When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: For a topo of the SE face feel free to PM me.


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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Geir When: Jan 10, 2013

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Comments: Hey Alex, that is a good point. What I wanted to get across is that many of the people who climbed this route may not have known it was retro bolted. As an example I noted that I did not. Another element of this particular case (which is not evident in the guidebooks) is that the bolts were placed without the knowledge or consent of the FA.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : Let's Make a Deal (5.11)
By: Geir When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: This is a highly recommended climb that takes some commitment. There are some runouts on easier terrain. Amazing ground up lead by Steve for sure. The 3/8" bolts are still in good condition save three leeper hangers which could be swapped out with new hangers.

Stoppers, singles through green camalot, and doubles from red through blue camalot is plenty of gear. Bring some slings for slinging chickenheads.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 40'). Start at a diving-board like boulder at the base of the cliff. (... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : That Pitch Leila (5.10-)
By: Geir When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: Another bold ground up FA by Arjun! It was hard to tell if the rock was going to be good or poor but Arjun went for it anyway. Getting into the wide crack early in the climb takes a bit of commitment, but then surprisingly good rock and solid edges outside the crack make for a fun climb. The roof at the top looks intimidating but goes really well. Thanks for establishing this line guys!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Catalyst (5.6)
By: Geir When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: oops, that's right. we'll get that fixed. thanks arjun!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Geir When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: Scott, good thoughts as always. I think a small metal sign attached to the first bolt would adequately warn people of the change.

Ryan, I get what you are saying but I feel leaving the bolts in reinforces the behavior. Further, I suspect most of the people who have "accepted" this were unaware of the history of this route. For example, I have lived here 10 years and I did not know.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: Badass! Glad to hear you are safe!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pathological Optimist (5.10)
By: Geir When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: Nice work guys. Looking forward to trying it!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Microskunks with Cholla Coa... (5.10b)
By: Geir When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: Now available at REI. Get one while supplies last!
Microskunk ornament
Microskunk ornament



Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Geir When: Dec 30, 2012

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Comments: Joe,

This has been an ongoing problem. I agree existing routes should not be retrobolted. If you would like, I will help you neatly remove the added bolts. Otherwise we reinforce this problematic behavior.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall : Space Cadets (5.10-)
By: Geir When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: I am aware of a local guy who is planning on replacing that bolt. I am pretty sure he plans to remove the old bolt and re use the hole.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Uncarved Block (5.11b/c R)
By: Geir When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Hey Josh,

There is a one-bolt free variation 10 feet to the right of the A0 pitch. :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Death Warmed Over (5.13a)
By: Geir When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: Nice send Alex!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge
By: Geir When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: I posted up on the Queen Creek page but thought I would add a response here too. Sorry to hear about this David and Arjun! I will be happy to donate to you guys to help recover some of your loss.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon
By: Geir When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: No way!!! That is awful Arjun!!

I will happily donate to you guys to help you recover the loss.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Hallelujah (5.11)
By: Geir When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: Excellent, sustained climbing on some of the best rock in the area. A must-do in the Refuge.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : In Alignment (5.10+)
By: Geir When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: Wow, this climb packs a punch. There is enough pro to keep you from taking a bad fall, but it's definitely not a giveaway. The upper half of the climb is significantly easier on unusual leaning features. Super fun route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Squaretop
By: Geir When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Topo updated. Thanks Jim!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : Photo
By: Geir When: Nov 9, 2012

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Comments: HAHAHAHA love the title!!! You are awesome Jim!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Nov 9, 2012

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Comments: Yup. Our neighbors found her, but they already had four dogs. She's a sweetheart. Her name is Hurley. Thanks!!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Coming to Grips (5.11c/d R)
By: Geir When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: This climb is amazing. Pitches 1 and 2 have some of the coolest climbing I have done in the Stronghold. Thanks, John, for posting it up!!

Modern climbing gear protects this climb well enough that the R rating is probably not warranted, however, all but one of the pitches have some tricky pro and demanding climbing.

We felt that stoppers, singles to .75 camalot, doubles of #1-#3, and one #4 camalot would work well for protecting this climb. All pitches are under 100'.

Than... more >>


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